Steak Frites - the Great Steaks from France. Onglets and Bavettes in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
A window into the world of steak frites.
www.flickr.com/photos/psd/19486769/
       
North American and European steak restaurants knew they were missing something when they saw happy tourists coming home from France talking about Steak Frites.   They were telling stories about, juicy steaks with fries or salad, and a glass of wine that cost them less than many restaurants charged for a hamburger. Then to further ease the traveler’s digestion, the servers were professional, and the bill was tip free.

Where did Steak Frites come from?

French restaurants are required by law to show their complete menu outside the restaurant, though that is rarely followed to the letter. Daily specials are often written in restaurant shorthand on a blackboard (or a whiteboard) called an “ardoise” in French. Restaurant shorthand is used in all countries, but it’s usually only seen in the kitchen. Here, the restaurants that began the craze for tasty and inexpensive steak frites in France wrote the menus for a steak Onglet et Pommes Frites or a Steak Bavette et Pommes Frites in restaurant shorthand on the blackboard.  The French diners understood what was being offered, and as for the visitors with little French, they all understood Steak Frites. The rest is history.
   
Steak Frites.
“What's in a name? That which we call an onglet or bavette
By any other name would taste as sweet."
www.flickr.com/photos/sarahvain/32915634207/
 
The great steaks behind Steak Frites.

The secret was Onglets and Bavettes; an onglet is a US hanger steak, and in the UK a skirt steak and a steak bavette is a flank steak on both sides of the pond — skirt steaks and hanger steaks must be prepared very carefully.  French chefs are trained to separate the different cuts and to see how the grain of the meat lies as well as most butchers. Then, since France has no equivalent to US Prime or US Choice, chefs personally check the age and internal marbling before buying.  In the kitchen, the chef or the sous chef cuts and marinates the steak. These cuts made excellent, tasty, steaks and were always among the most popular lower priced steaks on French menus, but they only made it across the channel and the pond when the menu listings were changed to Steak Frites.

To bring their well-traveled and experienced customers back some North American and UK steak houses even brought in French butchers. Now, the steakhouses knew that these cuts that required a lot of extra work but Steak Frites are now a hit on menus all over North America and Europe.

Despite what many travel books and other texts would have us believe rump steaks and entrecote are NOT behind France's Steak Frites. In France, restaurants would go broke selling entrecotes, rib-eyes, as steak frites, though, of course, you may pay extra and order one.   If you are visiting France, be ready for onglets and bavettes and in the kitchen and steak frites on the menu. The chef de partie, the line chef, will grill or fry the steaks to order. You may order these steaks from rare to medium-well; however, there is a caveat, there are no well-done steak frites.

Steak Frites on the menu:

Steak Frites – Steak and French fries. Steak Salade – Steak and salad.

Steak Frites ± 180g – A 6 1/2 ounce steak with French fries.

Steak Frites, Salade Verte, Verre De Bordeaux ou Galopin De Biere – Steak with French fries and a green salad served with a glass of Bordeaux wine or a galopin, 125 ml of beer.

Steak Haché Frites – A chopped steak and French fries. Read the menu carefully; this is a chopped steak, close to a hamburger.


Ordering Steak Frites

Ordering a steak requires little French. Every French server understands an order for steak frites!  Problems only appear when the server asks:  Quelle cuisson, votre steak?  How would you like your steak cooked?  English terms such as medium-rare, medium, or well-done do not translate, conceptually, into restaurant French. The word medium is used in French, where a médium may connect you to the spirit world; however, medium is not a word that is used in the kitchen. To order a steak in France click on this link to Ordering a Steak in France, Cooked the Way you Like it.

The steaks behind Steak Frtes
   
Bavettes on French menus.

In a supermarket or butcher's there are two steaks with the name bavette.  Bavette d'Aloyau and Bavette de Flanchet are skirt (or flank steaks) with the Bavette d'Aloyau being awarded a few more points on the scoreboard but well prepared, grilled and served with fries and a glass of a decent red wine I don't think anyone can tell the difference.
  
Steak Bavette À Point.
Photograph courtesy of Ron Dollete.
 
Bavette Grillée Frites/ Salade – A grilled flank steak with French fries or a salad, (This is the original steak frites).

Bavette d'Aloyau Sauce à l'Echalote - A  skirt steak prepared with a shallot sauce; a very popular recipe for bavette steaks.  N.B. This menu listing does not include fries, Ask.

Bavette de Bœuf Frites Maison et Sauce Béarnaise – A flank steak with French fries and Sauce  Béarnaise
  
Bavette Frites Maison et Salade
Steak Frites, flank steak with French fries and salad.
    
Onglet – Hanger/Skirt steak.

A hanger steak can have a tendon running through but given a choice between an onglet and a bavette choose the onglet. This cut comes from between the kidneys, which helps account for its stronger flavor. In a butcher’s display side by side, you can tell the difference between an onglet and a bavette, an onglette has darker meat. On the plate the flavor makes the difference.
            
Onglet de Veau, Pommes Grenailles Rissolées, Jus Corsé -   Veal hanger/skirt steak with chopped and deep-fried small new potatoes and served with a sauce made from the natural cooking juices.
   
Onglet, Pommes Frites – A skirt/hangar steak with French fries.

Onglet de Bœuf Juste Poêlé Aux Echalotes – A very lightly fried skirt/hanger steak flavored with shallots. N.B. This menu listing does not show that it includes fries. Ask.

Onglet
Green peppercorn sauce, fries fried in duck fat.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/falchion/29139850800/sizes/

Restaurants selling steak frites may also offer steaks, an Entrecote, a Ribeye; a Steak de Hamp , a steak close to the skirt; steak a Filet de Bœuf, a Fillet steak; a Faux Filet,  UK Sirloin Steak, in the USA a Strip Steak; a Steak Macreuse, no direct translation, plus a variety of rump steaks and more.  The French carefully choose different cuts ignored elsew and serve those with more taste and texture by name on the menu.

A steak des bouchers
A butcher’s steak.

Often a rump steaks will be called a steak des bouchers or a pièce du boucher. In English, a Steak des Bouchers would be the butcher’s steak.  A butcher’s steak is a traditional name used in many countries and in many languages.  The name is used for any low-cost steaks that a butcher appreciates for their hidden value. The implication is that the butcher will take the time required to prepare them; then he or she will take them home for his or her family. Another special cut is a Pave de Rumsteck; nevertheless, none of these cuts make it to most North American or UK menus.


  
A steak des bouchers, a steak araignée.
The butcher's steak.
www.flickr.com/photos/flem007_uk/3625173675/



                                     About the French used for Steak Frites.

The other steaks that may be on your menu:


Contre– Fillet, or Faux Fillet; a UK Sirloin, A USA Strip Steak. Ordering a steak in France II.

 
    
 


 
  
--------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2013, 2015, 2019.
  
 ---------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
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Pintade - Guinea Fowl. Guinea Fowl in French Cuisine.

 from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
Updated June 2019
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
   
Guinea fowl.
Photograph courtesy of David Berkowitz
www.flickr.com/photos/davidberkowitz/5696557977/

    
Many French menus will include dishes dedicated to this tasty bird and so if you do not usually see Guinea fowl on a menu at home that is a good enough reason to try Guinea fowl in France. Guinea fowl have darker meat than chicken and a slightly stronger taste; more importantly, is the manner in which French chefs will prepare delicious recipes created for these birds.
  
Guinea fowl on French menus:
     
Cuisse de Pintade aux Girolles, Écrasée de Pomme de Terre  - The leg of a Guinea hen prepared with wild chanterelle mushrooms and served with hand mashed potatoes. (Mashed potatoes in French is puree de pommes de terre, écrase means crushed, and so écrasée de pomme de terre is hand-mashed potatoes).
    
The Guinea fowl look out.
www.flickr.com/photos/7846004@N05/4312779881/
   
Filet de Pintade Fermiére, Carottes Confîtes, Endives Braisées et Son Jus de Volaille –  A slice of farm-raised Guinea Hen breast served with its cooking juices and accompanied by a carrot confit (a jam) and braised endives.
   
Les Suprêmes de Pintade à la Crème de Lentilles et Estragon – Breast of guinea fowl served with a cream of lentil and tarragon sauce.
   
Warm Guinea fowl salad with croutons.
www.flickr.com/photos/40132124@N00/11935809994/
  
Suprême de Pintade aux Pleurotes, Gratin Dauphinois - Breast of guinea fowl cooked with oyster mushrooms and served with gratin dauphinois. Gratin dauphinois is sliced baked potatoes baked with olive oil and garlic and layered with cream and milk; some versions include onions. When ready, the dish will be covered with Parmesan or Gruyère cheese and lightly browned under the grill.
  
Gratin Dauphinois
www.flickr.com/photos/edsel_/5880753274/
             
The Guinea fowl on your menu are all farmed-raised. Wild Guinea fowl originated in West Africa and were already being raised in Europe in the 14th century. Then guinea fowl were called, in France, the Poulet d’Inde, which with a slight contraction is the name used for turkeys in French today.  How two birds received the same name while neither came from India is another story that I have included in a post on turkeys.
  
 
Roast Guinea hen.
www.flickr.com/photos/cchen/52629630/
   
A whole guinea fowl will weigh over 1 kilo, and a large guinea fowl may way 1.5 kilos.  Your restaurant’s menu listing will be offering breast of guinea fowl or another cut.  Grilled or roasted Guinea fowl is leaner and tastier than any supermarket chicken. That is a good reason to ask for it back home.
      
Pintadeaux - A young Guinea fowl.
 
Guinea fowl in the languages of France's neighbors:

(Catalan - pintades), (Dutch -  parelhoenders), (German  -  perlhühner), (Italian - galline di faraone, faraone), (Spanish – gallina de Guinea, pintada).

-----------------------------------
 
Bryan G. Newman

Behind the French Menu
Copyright 2010, 2013, 2014, 2017, 2019.

For information on the unpublished book behind this blog write to Bryan Newman
at
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

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Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
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Pleurote – The Oyster Mushroom in French cuisine. The Mushrooms of France VI

Ami Du Chambertin; the Cheese from Burgundy.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

L'Ami Du Chambertin.

Photograph courtesy of Fromagerie Gaugry

The Ami du Chambertin is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese with a strong but pleasing taste; it is 45% fat, and made with unpasteurized milk. The pate is ivory colored, and the rind is a pale fawn to light brown. The cheese is aged for nearly two months before sale and while aging is washed in Marc de Bourgogne, a 40% alcohol eau-de-vie.  N.B. Marcs are eau de vies, brandies, made in a similar manner to the Italian Grappas. The Marc de Bourgogne may also be on your restaurant’s list of digestifs.

Ami Du Chambertin was named in honor of that full-bodied red Burgundy wine Gevrey-Chambertin AOP. The cheese's name translates into English as the Friend of Chambertin and comes, like the wine from the Bourgogne, Burgundy.  (From 1-1-2016  Burgundy became part of the new super region of Bourgogne – Franche-Comte).
  
Gevrey-Chambertin, the wine that gave the cheese its name.

Photograph courtesy of httpwww.kvins.com.
 
In the timelines used for French cheeses, Ami Du Chambertin is a new cheese, just touching seventy-years-old. Then, in the 1950’s Raymond Gaugry, a cheese merchant realized the tremendous potential of a new cheese for the Bourgogne, Burgundy.  The area was famous for its wines but had few famous cheeses. Today his creation may still not have the cachet of an AOP cheese, but it is very well-known and outsells quite a number of France’s more famous AOP cow's milk cheeses. Raymond Gaugry’s children continue running the dairy he founded and now also produce most of the other well-known Burgundy cheeses.
 
Ami du Chambertin on French menus :
 
Burger de Bœuf Charolais, Ami du Chambertin, Lard et Graines de Moutarde –A cheese and bacon burger of Charolais beef seasoned with mustard seeds.
 
Ecume d’Ami du Chambertin et Mouillettes au Pain d’Épices  - A light moose of Ami du Chambertin cheese, served with thin slices of gingerbread.
  
Entrecôte de Bœuf Charolais Sauce à l'Ami du Chambertin – An entrecôte, a rib-eye steak from France’s AOP Charolais beef cattle prepared with an Ami du Chambertin sauce.

Œufs Pochés à l'Ami du Chambertin - Poached eggs prepared with Ami du Chambertin.

Parmentier d'Agneau Gratiné Avec l'Ami du Chambertin - A mashed potato and minced lamb dish, upon whose recipe England’s shepherd’s pie was made; here it is browned under the grill with added Ami du Chambertin cheese.

Many of France’s potato dishes are named after Antoine-Augustin Parmentier. Parmentier was a trained pharmacist who devoted his life to foods and popularized potatoes in France in the middle of the 18th century. At that time many French citizens thought potatoes were poisonous but Parmentier persevered and saved many of the poorest peasants from starvation in the process. See the link to:  The French connection and the English kitchen.
  
For more about dining in Burgundy see the post:

Discovering L’Ami du Chambertin
 
I discovered Ami Du Chambertin cheese not long after I had been introduced to the Gevrey-Chambertin wine.  Then, for a period of two or three months, I would order the Gevrey-Chambertin wine whenever the opportunity arose.  At dinner, while ordering this wine, a French colleague asked if I liked the cheese that had been named in its honor: Ami Du Chambertin. A few days later I bought the cheese.   Since then Ami Du Chambertin is on my list of cheeses to take home from France.           

Fromagerie Gaugry – The Gaugry dairy.
 
Raymond Gaugry succeeded with his dream of creating a new cheese for Burgundy, and Ami du Chambertin is now sold all over France. The Gaugry family still own and run the dairy by that name. The dairy is about 10 km (6 miles) from the village of Gevrey-Chambertin in a village called Brochon.  Visitors may watch the whole production process without charge.
 
Watching the cheese production
 
The dairy is open, every day of the week except Sunday. Still, be careful, while it is open daily from 09:00 to 18:30 the visitors’ section closes for lunch from 12:00- 14:00!  Closing for lunch is a time honored tradition in France and small shops, offices and even some Tourist Information Offices close for lunch!   Gaugry's closing times may change so see the Gaugry dairy’s English language website:

                      

Cheeses produced by the Fromagerie Gaugry.

Photograph courtesy of Fromagerie Gaugry
          
 If you are in or near the city of Dijon or close to the village of Gevrey-Chambertin consider visiting the dairy in the village of Brochon.  The dairy is just a 15-minute drive from Dijon and 10 minutes from the village of Gevrey-Chambertin.  From Dijon including traveling time one and a half to two hours is enough to see the dairy in production and return home.  If you visit the dairy, you may also taste their cheeses, and for a small contribution to the local economy buy some. Apart from Ami Du Chambertin, the dairy produces nine other cheeses:   You may join guided tours via their website and also enjoy special evening cheese centric dinners.


Map from Dijon to Brochon and Gevrey Chambertin

Copyright Google

The cheeses produced in the Gaugry dairy:

Ami du Chambertin
Brillat- Savarin (The Cheese named after France’s first philosopher of food).
Brochonnais
Cendre De Vergy
Palet De Bourgogne
Petit Gaugry
Plaisir au Chablis ( Like the Ami du Chambertin this cheese is named after a wiine, Chablis).
Soumaintrain IGP
    
Plaisir au Chablis

Photograph courtesy of  Fromagerie Gaugry.
  
Burgundy is more famous for its wines than its cheeses, but there are over fifty other cheeses made in Burgundy, and four of those cheeses have AOP  status:

Mâconnais, AOP;

For more about buying cheese in France
and taking it home click here.

---------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2017, 2019/
---------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?

Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google or Bing,  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.


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Connected Posts:
  
  
  

 
 


     

 
  
  
 
  
Behind the French Menu’s links include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are nearly 400 articles that include over 2,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations. Add the word, words or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" and search with Google or Bing.
       

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