Showing posts with label port. Show all posts
Showing posts with label port. Show all posts

Port or Porto - Port Wine in French Cuisine. Port on French Menus

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

     
 
Tawny Port wines
www.flickr.com/photos/desiitaly/1300072510/
  
Port wine is produced in the Douro Valley in the northern provinces of Portugal.  Within the European Union, only the Port from Portugal may be marked as Port or Porto, while the USA allows any country to call their product Port. How to make Port is no longer a secret, and most New World wine producers also make Port-style wines,  but often the original creators still make the best Port.
   
Port is a fortified wine; that is a wine that has an eau-de-vie, a young grape brandy, added to the fermenting wine in the barrel. The addition of the eau-de-vie stops the fermentation and creates a new wine with higher alcohol content.  Most Ports have around 20% alcohol.

Ports include red, rose and white Ports. Sweet reds are the Port most often used in sauces, and red Port may also be served as a dessert wine that will be chosen from among any of the red Ports. White ports may be on your menu with sauces made for seafood and fish dishes, and chilled sweet white ports may be served as an aperitif.
    
Three different Ports.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/30893885@N07/4377120362/
   
How a Port is aged is not clear from the label.
  
Ports are aged in barrels and later in Glass demijohns. A Port demijohn is a large glass bottle that may be anywhere from 8 liters to 25 liters (2.10 gallons to 6.6 gallons) and more. The Port aged in barrels for a long time takes the oak flavor from the barrel and the darker color as well as being more viscous as the wine thickens from evaporation. The Port wine producer chooses the size of the barrel carefully as that affects the evaporation; larger barrels have less wine exposed to the air.  The Port aged in a demijohn is affected by the heat and cold where it is stored and will be smoother.
  
Glass demijohns.
Photograph courtesy of  Baies

Port wine on French menus:
  
Cassolette De Filets De Caille Sauce Port –  Slices of quail breast prepared with a port sauce. The cassolette is the name of the bowl in which the dish is prepared and may be served.  In French culinary tradition, the name of a bowl, pan or other kitchen equipment is often included in a menu listing.   N.B. Do not confuse a cassolette, a cooking bowl, with the similarly spelled cassoulet, which is a heavy winter stew.
    
Filet de Boeuf Salers au Poivre de Sarawak, Jus Corsé au Porto – A fillet of Salers beef prepared with Sarawak pepper and a sauce made from the beef's natural cooking juices and Port. Sarawak pepper is directly related to the more well-known peppercorns and grown on the island of Borneo in Malaysia, but it is milder than the pepper raised elsewhere and is aromatic. The Salers beef is a Label Rouge, red label, beef that is highly rated.  The Salers beef on your menu will probably come from a bull as the Salers cattle also produce the milk behind the Cantal and Salers cheeses.
 
Fricassée de Rognons de Veau à la Crème et à la Moutarde à l'Ancienne, Flambés Au Porto - Stewed veal kidneys prepared with a mustard flavored cream and flambéed with Port.  Moutarde à l'Ancienne is an old-style coarse-grained, mild mustard while Dijon-style mustards are creamy, spicier mustards.
   
Langoustine et Noix de Saint Jacques, Sauce Flambée au Porto BlancDublin Bay prawns and the meat from the king scallop flambéed with a white Port.
  
Langoustine - Dublin Bay Prawns
www.flickr.com/photos/e_n_gall/5043336140/
                                    
Magret de Canard Sauce Porto, Pommes de Terre Duck breast prepared with a port wine sauce and served with potatoes.
  
Poire Pochée au Porto – A pear poached in Port.
 
Ris de Veau Braisé, Sauce Porto et Poêlée de Légumes – Braised veal sweetbreads served with a Port sauce and mixed fried vegetables.
  
The different Port wines:
 
Colheita Port
 
A Colheita Port comes from a single vintage aged Tawny Port; it is not blended and the vintage year will be on the label. Colheitas are aged in small barrels for at least seven years, and that provides the source of their color, and you may sense a slight oak taste. Colheita Ports hold just 1% of the market but are appreciated far more than their market share suggests.
  
 
A Colheita Port.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/farehamwine/16380830353/
     
Crusted Port
    
Crusted port is a blend of port wine from several vintages with both red and white Crusted Ports being produced. These Ports are aged for a minimum of two years in barrels and then another three years in glass demijohns. Crusted Ports are bottled unfiltered, and they need to be decanted and filtered before drinking.
    
Garrafeira Port
  
Garrafeira Port is a vintage Port from a single year. These Ports will have spent at least three years in barrels, and then another six years in glass demijohns before bottling.
  
Late bottled vintage (LBV) Port
   
Late Bottled Vintage Ports are called LBV Ports.  LBV Ports are bottled later than other Ports and will have been aged in oak barrels for between four to six years. An LBV Port is ready to drink when bottled and most do not need to be decanted.
  
Late Bottle Vintage (LBV) Port.
www.flickr.com/photos/farehamwine/14970543914/

Reserve Port
 
Reserve port is a premium Ruby Port blended from red wines and aged in barrels for two years. Many of these wines may have the name Special or Finest or another word attached to the name Reserve; however, these other names are the producer's idea, and the age and production process is the same as wine just labeled Reserve Port.
   
Rose Port
  
Rose Port is a new Port that was created in 2008 by two producers; it is a form of Ruby Port. The fermentation of the wine is made in a similar manner to a rosé wine; the grape juice has very limited exposure to the grape skins, and that allows for a rosé rather than red color.
 
Ruby Port
 
Ruby Port takes its name from the red color of ruby gemstones. Ruby Port is the most popular Port and the least expensive.
    

 “Still Life" with Port.
Photograph courtesy of pedrik
www.flickr.com/photos/pedrik/46668652582/

 
Single Quinta Vintage Port
 
These wines come from a single vineyard, and similar to Vintage Ports are aged in oak barrels for at least two years before bottling without filtration. 
  
Tawny 
  
Tawny Ports are wines made from blended red Ports aged in wooden barrels.  The barrel aging for Tawny and other Ports allows for evaporation and oxidation. The longer Port remains in the barrel the wine will experience color changes finally reaching a golden-brown. The exposure to oxygen and the wood of the barrel adds an oak flavor to the wines.
   
Tawny Port

www.flickr.com/photos/georgegillams/26185247016/
  
Vintage Port
 
Vintage port is made entirely from the grapes of a declared vintage year and accounts for about two percent of overall port production. The decision on whether to declare a vintage is made by the producer alone in the spring of the second year following the harvest. All Vintage Port wines are closed with a cork and need to be opened with a corkscrew.


Vintage Port.

www.flickr.com/photos/farehamwine/12010831434/
  
White Port
 
White Ports will be on the menu as a base for sauces served with fish and seafood, and as a base for cocktails,  Apart from sauces and cocktails, White Ports are often served chilled as an aperitif.  
    
   
How Port became famous.
     
Port became popular in England after the Methuen Treaty of 1703, a commercial treaty between Portugal and England. At that time England was, as usual, at war with France and wine merchants could not legally import French wines. Port, like other fortified wines, traveled well in barrels and this treaty saw English merchants becoming very involved in the sale of Port. The English also created their own Port wine products with English names that will be seen on many labels including Cockburn, Croft, Graham, Osborne, Sandeman and Taylor.
  
Keeping Port wine at home.
 
Port, like other wines, should be stored lying down in a cool cellar in the dark as light damages port. Since most of us do not have wine cellars, until opening, Port is best kept in a cupboard.  When opened most Ports will keep well for a few weeks and they should be stored standing up.
   
Storing and serving Port.
  
Red Port should be served between 16 and 20 degrees Celsius (61 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit) while White Port is usually served chilled.
 
The size and shape of Port wine glasses.
 
While there is no single accepted size for a Port wine glass it is generally agreed that Port should be served in a glass that looks like a small and shorter wine glass. Since the standard Burgundy wine glass holds around 400 ml (13.5 oz), that makes the correct size of Port and Sherry glasses around 200 ml (6.7 oz).


--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Copyright 2010, 2017, 2019
 
--------------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
 

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Madère, Vin de Madère - Madeira Wine. Madeira Wine in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com


 

Madeira Wines
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pbarry/4928215119/sizes/l/
   
Vin de Madère  - Madeira wine.
   
Madeira is a smooth, fragrant, and opulent fortified wine with an alcohol content of between 18-21 percent. The wine comes from the Portuguese Madeira Islands in the North Atlantic.  

There are four grades of sweetness for Madeira wines and they are: seco-dry, meio seco- medium dry, meio doce-medium sweet and doce-sweet.

(A fortified wine is made by ending the fermentation that takes place in the barrels by adding an eau-de-vie, a grape alcohol, to the wine.  Ending the fermentation before it is naturally completed controls and raises the amount of alcohol in the wine and the level of sweetness).  


The place to go and taste.
  
Madeira wine is a longtime favorite in French cuisine and your menu may offer:
  
Soupe à l'Oignon et au Madère Gratinée  French onion soup served with toasted bread and cheese on top, browned under the grill before serving.  This menu listing has Madeira wine added to the soup and that identifies it as a recipe from the city of Lyon, France.  According to tradition, the city of Lyon uses Madeira or Port for flavoring and the city of Paris uses wine.  
  
Rognons de Veau Poêlés, Sauce Madère et Gratin de Pommes Charlotte – Lightly fried veal kidneys prepared in a Madeira sauce and served with mashed Charlotte potatoes browned under the grill before serving. Charlotte is a very popular and tasty French potato; it is not a name for a potato dish. The Charlotte is the potato most often used in France for steamed or mashed potatoes. Sauce Madeira is made with veal stock or veal bouillon, butter, shallots and, of course, Madeira wine.


Milk-fed veal sweetbreads with a Madère wine sauce

   
Foie de Veau Sauté au Madère - Veal liver  sautéed in  a Madeira wine sauce.
 
Langue de Boeuf aux Petits Légumes, Sauce Madère. – Beef tongue served with baby vegetables and prepared with a Madeira sauce.  Beef tongue with a Madeira wine sauce will be on quite a number of French menus; it is a dish that has remained popular for over one hundred years. Baby vegetables are miniature versions of regular vegetables and were first developed in Italy; since then French creations have been added.

Melon Cavaillon au Jambon de Bayonne ou Madère - Cavaillon melon served with Bayonne cured ham and flavored with Madeira wine.  The Cavaillon melon comes from the beautiful, small Provencal town of the same name, 20 km (13 miles) from Avignon.   The Cavaillon melon is,  I believe, the tastiest melon in France. If you are in France anywhere from mid-June through September when it is in season do not miss out on this melon.  The melon is green on the outside with dark-green ribs; inside a ripe Cavaillon melon, the flesh is sweet and orange colored with a heady and memorable scent.  Bayonne ham's name comes from the city of Bayonne; the capital of the Pays Basques, the French Basque Country. Bayonne is in the department of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques and its ham is the most popular cured ham in France.
   
Cavaillon melon and Bayonne ham.
www.flickr.com/photos/99123936@N00/5972833974/
    
Ris de Veau aux Morilles, Sauce Madère – Veal Sweetbreads served with morel mushrooms and Madeira wine sauce.
   
Tournedos Rossini The most famous of all steak dishes made with Madeira wine; it is named after the Italian composer Gioachino Rossini. Rossini composed the operas, the Barber of Seville and William Tell, along with many others and was loved in France where he lived for many years. Rossini was also a gourmet and considered great chefs as maestros, like himself they were masters of their art.  The cut for a tournedos comes from the cœur de filet de bœuf, the heart, the center, of a fillet of beef; this is the most expensive of all beef cuts.  The same cut is used for a Chateaubriand.  The recipe named after Rossini includes goose foie gras, fattened goose liver, the black Perigord truffle, and a Madeira wine sauce.  To see the link on Tournedos Rossini click here.
  
A Tournedos Rossini
Photograph by Monkey Business through YayMicro.co   
    
The different types of Madeira wine:
   
Madeira wines made with a single type of grape are considered the finest, but they are also the most expensive. Historically, there were over eleven types of Madeira wines, but only seven or eight were truly single grape wines. Today only four white grapes and one red grape made be used for single grape Madeira wines. These wines are aged and their date of bottling is on the label. A single grape Madeira wine means that at least 85% of the wine comes from a single type of grape and that grape gives the wine its name. However, the most popular Madeira wines are the less expensive, but often excellent blends. The blends also improve with age and may be purchased with different degrees of sweetness. 
   
Madeira Wine Barrel, 2002 vintage.
Photograph courtesy of Alexander Baxevanis
.
The single grape Madeira wines: 
  
Sercial
   
Sercial is a white wine grape and the driest of all single grape vintage Madeira wines.  Sercial is aged for at least five years before being sold, and as it ages it darkens and mellows. Sercial is the Madeira wine most often served cold as an aperitif.
  
Five-year-old Madeira
www.flickr.com/photos/grilledahi/558163482/
     
Verdelho
    
Verdelho, a white wine grape makes a golden, semi-dry wine and in France, this wine and the slightly sweeter Bual Madeira wine are the Madeira wines most chefs choose for Sauce Madeira. 
   
Note the interesting label on the first barrel
Bastardo?
www.flickr.com/photos/136359789@N02/38005456794/
    
Bual
   
Bual comes from the Boal Cachud white grape. This Madeira wine varies in color from golden to a deep brown as it ages. It is a medium-sweet wine and either this wine or Verdelho will be chosen for Madeira Sauce. Bual may also be served as a digestif, a dessert wine, as an alternative to port.
   
A  5-year-old Bual Madeira.
www.flickr.com/photos/jovamp/5632704416/
   
Malmsey

Malmsey comes from a white grape called the Malvasia Candida and makes one of the sweetest Madeira wines. Malmsey is a full-bodied wine and is used both as a dessert wine and in sweet desserts, pastries, and sweet sauces.
   
Tinto Negra also called Tinta Negra Mole
  
Tinto Negra is the most abundant of all Madeira’s wine grapes. This is a red wine grape and the most popular wine used for adding the 15% permitted to the single grape Madeira wines.  Tinta Negra Madeira wine comes in dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet and sweet wines and accounts for 80%  of all Madeira wine sales. When you see a bottle of Madeira wine without any other name, the chances are that it is Tinto Negra or a blended wine consisting mainly of Tinta Negra.
  
Learning about Madeira wines in France:
   
My introduction to the story of Madeira in France was in the home of a French family.  My hosts, in honor of three overseas visitors,  invited a friend who was the cellar master in a Medoc Château to join us all for dinner. The cellar master surprised us all with two great bottles of Medoc from different years.  These were seriously select vintage wines that I could not have justified buying myself.  However, the real surprise that evening was the wine the cellar master brought as the digestif; he had brought a wine from outside France!  That wine was a Bual Vintage Madeira that had spent 20 years in an oak barrel before bottling.  With all these wines, our dinner discussions were about nothing else, and I was introduced to the history of Madeira wine in France. 
  
Madeira wine tasting
Photograph courtesy of PortoBay Experiences
www.flickr.com/photos/portobayevents/21136995889/
  
The French suffered from the English control of Madeira wine.

The English controlled most of the Madeira wine trade, and as we all know for hundreds of years, England and France were at war. During their constant wars, the British were always attempting to blockade France. As a result of these blockades, Madeira only seriously entered the French market with the exile of Napoleon I from France in 1815.  Then with the wars with England ended, Madeira became a success story in French cuisine.  The most famous dish from that period using Madeira wine, and still on many menus, is Tournedos Rossini. The dish was created for Rossini by the legendary French Chef Casimir Moissons in 1822 or 1823.

Like Sherry and Port the British were the driving force behind the development of Madeira.
   
From the 16th century, Madeira wine was developed and imported by the English. The English had already made Port and Sherry a staple in the homes of the aristocracy and merchant classes, and after Madeira, they added Marsala wine from Sicily.  At that time, all wine was sold in barrels, and most wines did not travel well on long sea voyages. Fortified wine, wines whose fermentation in the barrel had been stopped also traveled much better.  Madeira’s ability to travel well had also made it a favorite in the American colonies. However, in the North American colonies, the laws on shipping the wine only on British-owned ships pushed the price of Madeira, their favorite wine, up. That shipping law helped drive the movement for independence to the tipping point.
   
Swordfish cooked in Madeira wine
www.flickr.com/photos/prestige/3731270092/

The treatment of Madeira wines:
  
Madeira, sherry, and port wines were transported to the British Empire and others in India, and the effect of long sea voyages through the tropics was uniquely beneficial to Madeira. Those long sea voyages naturally slowly cooked and oxidized Madeira.  That tropical exposure, in barrels, improved the wine's taste, and in the kitchen, the cooks found they had a wine that could be used without the taste changing. Back on the Islands of Madeira, two systems were created to emulate the process without sailing through the tropics, and the rest is history.
 

Madeira quickly became the most famous fortified wine in French and other kitchens and has remained there. Despite its popularity in the kitchen, most Madeira is consumed as wine.  Madeira wines' use in cooking remains a small part of the market.  
Madeira labels:
                                                    
Colheita - Single grape Madeira wines aged and marked with a vintage date; these are often young wines

Reserva - Reserve- A  Madeira single grape wine that has spent at least 5 years in an oak barrel before bottling

Reserva Velha - Special reserve – A  Madeira single grape wine that has spent at least 10 years in an oak barrel before bottling
   
Reserva Extra - Extra Reserve – A  Madeira single grape wine that has spent at least 15 years in an oak barrel before bottling

Frasqueira – A  Madeira single grape wine that has spent at least 20 years in an oak barrel before bottling.
  
The words used to describe Madeira wines:

The wines’ color:
 
Muito Pálido – very pale; Pálido – Pale; Dourado – Golden; Meio Escuro – Medium Dark; Escuro – Dark.

The wine’s texture:

Leve – Light or pale, Mencão – full Bodied or full,  Fino – Fine or rich; Macio – Soft;  Aveludado – Velvety; Amadurecido – Mellow.
  
The Madeira Islands:

Madeira is an archipelago, a group of islands. There are two inhabited islands, Madeira and Porto Santo where the Madeira wine grapes grow with  another six small islands that are uninhabited nature reserves. The Madeira Islands are in the North Atlantic with the nearest land being the Spanish Canary Island of Tenerife  490 km  (300 mi) away.  The nearest landmass is Africa with Morocco  788 km, (490 miles) distant and Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is 967 km, (604 miles) away.    

--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2014, 2017,2019
 
--------------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
 
Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google, Bing, or another browser.  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.
   

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