Escalope de Veau or Paillard de Veau. Veal in France II - A Veal Cutlet, Escalope, Escallop or Scallop.



from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Thinking about dining in France. 
Photograph courtesy of Stuck in Customs
   
Escalope or Paillard de Veau
  
A cutlet, escalope, escallop, or scallop of veal holds a unique position in the French kitchen.  A veal escalope, the word that I will use in this post, is a boneless cut usually cut into round or oval shapes.  A veal escalope us always thinly sliced, and then thinned some more to make sure the veal served is tender. France is the largest producer of veal in Europe and so definitely the place to enjoy a veal escalope.
  
The traditional French term for a veal escalope is a paillard; however, today the word escalope will be on more menus.  The word escalope may also be used for poultry, fish and pork so read the menu carefully. The North American usage of a scallop for an escalope can also cause confusion with the shellfish called the scallop.
   
Your menu may offer:
  
Veau Cordon Bleu – An escalope of veal wrapped around a slice of boiled ham and cheese, traditionally that is  French Gruyere though it is often made with Comte or Munster, breaded, and then fried.

     This is a dish from the mid-20th century; however, the Cordon Bleu, the  award of the blue ribbon, is much older. The Cordon Bleu was part of an award created by  King Henry III of France, in 1578, for outstanding service to the French Crown

The Cordon Bleu and cooking.
  
      The tradition connecting the Cordon Bleu to French cuisine is down to King Louis XV (1710-1777).  In the accepted tradition, King Louis XV presented the award to a female chef who had prepared for him a particularly outstanding and memorable meal. Following that award, the term Cordon Bleu  became a standard of excellence for food as well as other activities.
    

Cordon Blue Medal .
Photograph courtesy of  Magdiel Crisan.
   
      The first well-known French cookery school was called the Cordon Bleu, and it was founded by a lady named Marthe Distell in Paris in 1895.  Marthe Distell also founded an early publication for French foodies called La Cuisinière Cordon Bleu, the Cordon Blue Cuisine. That magazine did much to make the ordinary French citizen aware of changes in the kitchen just as the chef Escoffier began to make a name for himself.  When visiting Paris call ahead and take a one-day or a half-day course in English or French at the Cordon Bleu school.  View a demonstration dish being prepared before you register for that full three-year course! The Parisian Cordon Bleu English language website is: http://www.cordonbleu.edu/paris/home/en The school’s most famous American graduate is Julia Child.  
  
Escalope de Veau a la Crème - Lightly fried veal cutlets with a cream sauce usually including mushrooms.
Escalope de Veau a la Crème.
Photograph courtesy of balise42.

Escalope de Veau Chasseur -  A veal escalope as prepared for a hunter.  A lightly fried veal escalope served with wine sauce made with mushrooms and a roux brune, a basic brown sauce. The sauce will be flavored with shallots, bacon and sometimes crème fraiche. The classic dish served with this sauce is a tournedos chasseur.  
  
Escalope de Veau Milanaise Blonde d’Aquitaine -  Escalope de Veau Milanaise  may be translated as  the Italian Cotoletta alla Milanese or as a Weiner Schnitzel.  Here the veal comes form France's highly rated, Label Rouge, red label, Blond d'Aquitaine cattle. To hold the Label Rouge, or an AOP rating for veal the calves must be raised by their mothers, until weaned,  and then allowed to graze freely.   The breaded escalope Milanaise differs from the Vienna Schnitzel only by the absence of flour.  However, in Italy the cut used is usually different.
    
Escalope de Veau au Marsala – A veal escalope prepared with Marsala wine. Most of the recipes for this dish include mushrooms and cheese, some include cream .
     
=
A Marsala wine bottle.
Photograph courtesy of pwinn.
   
  Marsala wine took its name from the port town of Marsala in Sicily. The town that is also famous as the  birthplace of the Greek mathematician and philosopher Archimedes in 278 BCE.
     
  Marsala is a fortified wine and made in a similar manner to Port, Sherry, Madeira and the French vin doux naturels.  Marsala wines are used in many Italian dishes, and quite a few French ones. Marsala wine’s popularity comes, according to tradition, through the work of  a British gentleman by the name of John Woodhouse. Woodhouse managed to get Nelson’s fleet stocked up on Marsala wine instead of rum and the rest is history.
    
Escalope de Veau à la Normande – Veal cutlets prepared with onions, button mushrooms and crème fraîche; many recipes for this dish will include Norman cider.
Escalope de Veau  â la Normande
Photograph courtesy of Maggie Osterberg 

Norman Cuisine.
    
      Normandy makes a unique contribution to French cuisine. The region supplies 30% of all of France’s cream and cow’s milk and is the home to Calvados AOP apple brandy and some of the best cider in France. Apart  from its milk products, Normandy is famous for its cheeses, pré- salé lambs, fresh sea fish, farmed mussels, veal, farmed oysters, Rouen ducks, ducklings, seafood from the Atlantic and more.

     The name Normandie, Normandy, comes from the French name for the land when the Vikings lived there.  Nor-man-die is old French for "The Land of the Northern Men.”   William the Conqueror, who conquered England in 1066, was a direct descendant of the last Viking King of Normandy.  One of William’s descendants is the present Queen of England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.
  
Escalope Viennoise or Escalope de Veau Viennoise – A Wiener schnitzel or Vienna schnitzel under its French name.  The original Wiener Schnitzel is the gold standard by which all other breaded veal cutlets are judged.   The French  have always respected Viennese chefs, and when the Wiener schnitzel was brought to France they did not withold the dish’s origin.

          Wiener Schnitzel is  thinly cut veal slices rolled in flour,  then eggs and  then bread crumbs, before frying in butter or oil.  When correctly cooked a good Wiener Schnitzel will have the bread crumbs held together by the flour but easily separated from the veal.  Wiener Schnitzel is traditionally served with potato salad, cucumber salad and a green salad along with boiled potatoes and a slice of lemon;  however, in France the chef may have other ideas.
A traditional serving of a Weiner Schnitzel.
Photograph courtesy of P Donovan.
      My Viennese, Austrian, Grandmother, introduced me to Weiner Schnitzel at an early age. Along with with Wiener Schnitzel came Apple Strudel, Kugelhof and more. Now some things the Viennese got right, not too many mind you, but Weiner Schnitzel was one of them. A Weiner schnitzel properly made is large, thin and one of tastiest veal dishes.   When ordering Weiner Schnitzel read the menu carefully. The word schnitzel on its own can refer to dishes made with chicken or turkey breast or pork.
Paillard de Veau, Beurre à l'Ail et au Cresson – A veal escalope made with garlic butter and watercress.
   
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2012, 2014,2015.

When a French Menu is Not an English Menu!

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


    
Menu
   
The word menu in French indicates a fixed-price meal.
The word menu in English indicates a list of all the dishes that are available
with separate prices for each item.

The full French wording is: "Menu à Prix-Fixe" and is customarily abbreviated to the single word "Menu" or the word "Formule." A menu typically includes two or three courses. water (tap water) is free. Unless very clearly stated a glass of wine, a soft drink or coffee will be charged for. A full English style menu with each item price separately is called an à la carte menu.
 
Menus and the French laws
Displaying menus and à la carte menus outside restaurants.
 
Restaurants must display, by law, their menus with prices outside their entrance. That means their full “à la carte” menu as well as any fixed-price menus they offer. However, limited space outside the restaurant often means you really need to enter the restaurant to see everything.  Prices must include all taxes and service charges.

Daily specials in bistros, brasseries, and similar restaurants are often written on a blackboard or whiteboard, in French called an ”ardoise,” a slate. The ardoise may be inside on a wall or outside the restaurant in the street. In large restaurants, the specials may be on a card attached to the printed menu. Smaller restaurants may not offer any printed menus at all: what is written on their ardoise is their complete menu.
       
An “ardoise: with a single menu outside a restaurant


Fixed price menus were created for the French, not the visitors.
 
Fixed-price menus were conceived with the local citizenry in mind. They began as light lunchtime menus in business districts.  A fixed-price menu of two or three courses allowed a good restaurant to offer a full meal at a competitive price and serve it in less than one hour. These “menus” are usually good options compared to the cost of the same dishes offered on a full à la carte menu. Today fixed-price lunchtime menus are often available in restaurants with Michelin stars; sadly, that does not include any discounts on their wines!    Fixed-price menus have become so popular that many restaurants now offer fixed-price menus in the evening; that is beside their full à la carte menu. (The word formule may be used interchangeably with the word menu).       

"Formule" on an ardoise.
Ardoise Formules Gourmet 3 plats - Picture of Le XII - Douze de Luynes, Luynes
   
Requesting changes in a fixed-price menu
  
It is acceptable to ask for a change in a fixed-price menu.  In restaurants with two or three fixed-price menus, most can accept a change of the entrée, the French starter, or the dessert. The main course may prove more difficult.  Most will make the changes with a smile and changes taken from a more expensive menu will come with a surcharge.  NB: Small restaurants that offer a single fixed-price menu may be unable to change anything.

Your table awaits you.
www.flickr.com/photos/gazeronly/14183798916/
  
All fixed-price menus include all taxes and service charges.

There are many types of fixed-price menus in France, and it is worthwhile noting some of the differences.  However, all French restaurant menus must include all taxes and service charges. For more about tipping in French restaurants and cafes, see the post: Tipping in French Restaurants and Asking for French Sales Tax to be Returned.
   
Three key words to look out for on fixed price menus:

Choix
Choix - Choice. Pronounced shwa.

Hormis
Hormis – Apart from, except or excluding. Pronounced or-mi.
Hormis is the word that indicates items that are not included in a particular menu.   Hormis may also indicate the times when hotels or restaurants do not offer special rates, or the restaurant/hotel is closed.
  
Sauf
Sauf -  Except. Pronounced as it reads, sauf.
 
Three examples of fixed-price menus:

Menu 1

Menu Avec une Entrée, un Plat, un Dessert pour Euro € 20.00 -  An "entrée," the French starter, a "plat," the main course, and a dessert for 20 Euros.

Menu 2

Menu à 30 Euros:  1 Entrée, 1 Plat au Choix dans La Carte, 1 Dessert. 1 Boisson au Choix -  The entrée, the starter, and the dessert are noted without any qualifications; that indicates that no choices are offered for these courses. The plat, the main course may be chosen from their full  " à la carte menu"  their full menu.  1 Boisson au Choix indicates you may choose your beverage, a soft drink, or coffee; the wine would be extra.
   
Menu 3

 La Formule à 31 € - 2 Plats au Choix dans la Carte. (Formule valable uniquement le midi, hormis les dimanches et jours fériés) -  Two dishes are included in this formule/menu.  You may choose a starter, and the main course or if you prefer, the main course and a dessert. All choices are from their full à la carte menu. The price is 31 Euros. In brackets, the restaurant advises that this formule/menu is for lunchtime only "hormis," apart, from Sunday's and Holiday's when it is not available.

When planning a trip to France, do take the French National Holidays into account. Not all attractions are open every day of the year and many are closed on national holidays.

Once the words choix,  hormis, and sauf, are part of your personal French-English dictionary, you will have few problems ordering from French fixed-price menus.
       
Menu de la journée Sarah Bernhardt, le 9 décembre 1896
www.flickr.com/photos/double-m2/5563640808/
   
Requesting fixed-price menus and or an à la carte menu:

To request a restaurant's fixed price menu/s say:  La menu/s a prix-fixe s'il vous plaît. Pronounced:  la menu/s a pree fix sil voo play. ("S'il vous plait" means, please).

To request an full à la carte menu say: La carte s’il vous plaît. Pronounced: la kart sil voo play.

N.B. In a busy restaurant, at lunchtime, do not be surprised if their â la carte menu is not available.
      
La carte and la formule.
www.flickr.com/photos/26948815@N03/7986034957/
  
Want to practice your pronunciation?
Use these excellent free programs, I do.
https://forvo.com/languages/fr/ (Best for single words)
https://www.howtopronounce.com/French/ (Best for phrases).
  
Different types of fixed-price menus:
 
Menu "Buffet" le Dimanche – A Sunday buffet menu. The French version of a Sunday brunch; not the same but close.  A French Sunday buffet is an enjoyable and a relatively inexpensive way of dining with the whole family.
 
Menu d'Affaires – A fixed price business lunch.
 
Menu Dégustation - A tasting menu; this may be anywhere from four to seven, or even more, small servings.
 
A menu dégustation is intended to show off the abilities of the chef. Menus of this type will only be offered in the evening. Traditionally, in France, a menu dégustation has to be chosen by a minimum number of diners and in many restaurants by everyone at the same table.  The reason for having all the diners choose the same meal is to allow for timed service, with all the diners being served each course simultaneously.
 
French diners accept the rule that timing is an integral part of a great meal. Diners do not wish to be rushed or left for half an hour waiting for the next course, For the staff, timing is just as important, having different guests, at the same table, eating different courses can drive even a saintly Maitre D' to distraction.

 Tasting menus often include seven or more small courses.  Some extraordinary Menus de Dégustation offering paired wines that will be changed with every course; tasting menus are rarely inexpensive.  Tasting menus are usually only offered when chosen by all the diners at a particular table.  There are two reasons for this; the first, and the one that is always stated is to allow a French chef to concentrate on his or her unique dishes and their correctly timed preparation; there will be no dishes held back under a heat lamp or on a warming-pan while other dishes are still being prepared.  The second reason, equally valid, but undisclosed, is so the meal may be served in an orderly manner.  The way a meal is served is fundamental in French cuisine.  Having one diner waiting for his or her dessert while other diners are still only halfway through their meal would drive even the most saintly of Maitre D's mad.

Menu de Midi – A fixed price lunch menu.

A 21 Euro Menu
www.flickr.com/photos/etherworks/541563643/
 
Menu du Terroir – A fixed price menu with an emphasis on local products and recipes.
 
Menu du Jour - The fixed price menu of the day. This menu is often a hand-written list on an ardoise, the blackboard on the wall, or a separate card inside the printed menu.
 
Menu en Anglais  An English language menu is available.
   
Menu Gastronomique – A  Menu Gastronomique, will offer unique and different recipes, dishes that are not seen, tasted, or served every day. When the restaurant offers a bona fide menu gastronomic, you may have a chance to try unique dishes.  Unfortunately, on occasion, a menu gastronomic may sometime be just a name the chef has allocated to a group of the restaurant's most expensive options on its à la carte menu combined into six or seven or more small courses.  In that case, look for other options.
     
Menu pour Enfants or Menu Pinocchio or Menu des Bambins – A child's menu. Many children's menus have cute names, even though their intended diners may not be able to read!  These menus, with low prices, may include chicken or turkey schnitzel, hamburgers, hot dog type sausages, and French fries, chips.  Today, many restaurants will offer children tomato ketchup.
 
Menu Servi Tous Les Jours Midi et Soir Sauf Samedi Soir et Jours Féries   A fixed-price set menu that will be offered for lunch and dinner every day sauf, except, Saturday evenings and Holidays.

Menu Suivant La Saison -  A menu that changes with the season.  The title implies that the menu offers seasonal specialties.  I always ask what these are.  Certain wild mushrooms or berries may only be in season for two or three weeks in a year and I don’t want to miss out.
 
Menu Touristique – A tourist menu.  For years, the French Ministry of Tourism has encouraged restaurants to offer fixed-price menus especially for tourists.  Caveat Emptor: Before entering a restaurant that provides a Menu Touristique look inside. If the restaurant is busy, with diners enjoying themselves, then enter. If the restaurant is serving greasy hamburgers to a nearly empty hall, go elsewhere.
 
Menu Végétarien – A vegetarian menu.

The wine list is La carte des Vins.
--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2012, 2014, 2020

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