Friday, May 17, 2013

Chanterelle Girolle - The Chanterelle Mushrooms in French Cuisine. The Mushrooms of France IV.

Behind the French Menu.
Bryan G. Newman
Updated October 2019
The Girolle Chanterelle

Chanterelle girolles are wild mushrooms,
and not yet commercially cultivated.
In France, they are also called the Chanterelle Ciboire or Jaunotte.
Latin -  cantharellus cibarius.
The chanterelle or girolle chanterelle is the best-known member of the chanterelle mushroom family in France.  The other members of the chanterelle family are also welcomed by the chefs of France, whether fresh or dried. Dried chanterelles keep much of their flavor; but the chefs know the difference that fresh chanterelles can make to a dish;  in season, hardly a single menu will not include at least one dish with fresh chanterelles

Each member of the chanterelle family is available fresh at specific times of the year, and I have included, in this post, three of the four most popular chanterelles seen on French menus.  The fourth, the horn of plenty or black chanterelle, (in French, the corne d’abondance or trompettes de la mort) has its own post.
Mushroom gatherers.
The abundance of names for a single mushroom.

The variety of names used for a single mushroom are part of local traditions that are found in all countries and regions, including North America and the UK. I have been told by more than one chef who, time permitting, pick their own wild mushrooms, that there are many more than four members of the chanterelle family in France.  In order not to confuse the diners with ten or more different names, the less well-known chanterelle mushrooms will be prepared together with the chanterelle family member closest in color taste and texture; when cooked any minor differences will have disappeared.

The chanterelle girolle’s color ranges from an ivory white to a yellow-orange, and it is a meaty mushroom with a fruity and slightly peppery taste. Fresh chanterelle girolles will be on menus from late May through October.

The Girolle Chanterelle on your menu:
Cassoulet d'Escargots aux Girolles à la Crème de Persillade – Cassolette d'Escargots is a popular snail dish, but here we see a change in the traditional recipe. Here the dish called cassolette d'escargots has had an upgrade with the girolle chanterelle being added to the recipe along with a cream of parsley sauce. Cassolettes d'Escargots are found, with slight differences in the recipe, in most of France's regions. If you are in France and haven't tried snails before consider trying this dish, then you may understand why the French enjoy eating snails. N.B. Cassoulet d'Escargots are very different from the heavy winter stews that are the Cassoulets of southern France.
Chanterelles hidden in the grass.
Crème de Chanterelle Ciboire  - A cream of girolle chanterelle soup.
Fettuccini with chanterelles

Fricassée de Rognons de Veau aux Jaunottes.- Veal kidneys stewed with girolle chanterelle mushrooms; veal and lamb kidneys are very popular in France. 
Chanterelles in the market.

Risotto de Boulgour aux Chanterelles et Œufs de Caille Poché. - A risotto made with blé boulgour, bulgur wheat, and the chanterelle mushroom. Bulgur wheat is the pre-cooked, par-boiled wheat used for taboulé and other traditional North African dishes. French chefs have begun to use this wheat with its slightly nutty flavor for local creations. Here, the bulgur wheat is made into a risotto with mushrooms and served with poached quail eggs. NB. Quail eggs taste just like a hen’s eggs; however, they are one-fifth the size, and so a quail egg omelet for one will be expensive.
Chanterelle Risotto

The Girolle Chanterelle in the languages of France's neighbors:
(Catalan – rossinyol), (Dutch - hanenkam or cantharel ),(German – pfifferlinge or eierschwamm), (Italian - gallinacio or galletto), (Spanish – chantarela), (Latin - cantharellus cibarius).

The Chanterelle Gris -  The Trumpet Chanterelle,
Number two on the chanterelle popularity stakes:
The Chanterelle Gris, Chanterelle en Tube, Chanterelle d'Automne, Chanterelle Jaunissante. Chanterelle en Trompette  - Trumpet Chanterelle, Autumn Chanterelle, or Funnel Chanterelle. (Latin -  cantharellus tubaeformis)..

Chanterelle Gris, the Trumpet Chanterelle.

This small yellow to brown and gray mushroom has a slightly tart mushroom flavor with the typical slightly springy mushroom texture. In France they are fresh from September through November.

The Trumpet Chanterelle on French menus:
Côte de Veau à la Crème de Chanterelle Grise -veal chop prepared with a cream of trumpet chanterelle sauce.
Filet de Fera aux Chanterelles Grise  –  A filet of the broad whitefish, a supremely tasty member of the trout and salmon families prepared with the trumpet chanterelle mushroom.

Langoustines Toutes Décortiquées Rôties Petites Chanterelles Grises - The Dublin Bay prawn, Scampi or Norwegian Lobster shelled and roasted with the small trumpet chantarelle mushrooms. The Dublin Bay prawn is neither a lobster nor even a shrimp; however, this is the real scampi, not the shrimps that in the USA are often on the menu as scampi. Scampi are not easily shelled, and here you may see that the restaurant is letting you know that they have done all the hard work. (N.B. Do not confuse the langoustine with the much larger langouste, the rock or spiny lobster; the owner of the lobster tail).

Sweetbreads in cream sauce with chanterelles
Suprêmes de Faisan Rôtis sur l'os, les Cuisses Farcies aux Chanterelles d'Automne de Nos Ramasseurs  (2 pers.) -  Breast of pheasant roasted on the bone, with the legs stuffed with Autumn chanterelle mushrooms supplied by the restaurant’ s own wild mushroom gatherers. This dish is for a minimum of 2 persons (2 per.). The pheasants on French menus are rarely wild pheasants; like many other traditional game birds and animals pheasants are farmed in France; even wild boar are farmed. The pheasant on this menu is a farmed bird; if this was a wild pheasant then the menu would read faisan sauvage

The Chanterelle Gris -  The Trumpet Chanterelle in the languages  of France's neighbors:

(Catalan - fals camagroc), (Dutch - trechtercantharel), (German - trompetenpfifferling or  herbst pfifferling), (Italian - finferia  or cantarello a  tromba), (Spanish -  angula gris, trompeta amarilla de monte), (Latin -  cantharellus tubaeformis).


The Chanterelle à Pied Jaune - The Yellow Foot Chanterelle
 Number three in the chanterelle popularity stakes.
Chanterelle à Pied Jaune, Craterelle, Chanterelle Jaune 
The Yellow Foot  Chanterelle, Golden Chanterelle or Winter Chanterelle.

When this mushroom's French name is on the menu as the craterelle read again carefully as another family member is called the craterelle corne d'abondance, and that is the black chanterelle or horn of plenty mushroom.  The black chanterelles is an equally tasty but different tasting mushroom, and it is the subject of a separate post. The yellow foot chanterelle is fresh from August through October.
Chanterelle à Pied Jaune - The Yellow Foot Chanterelle

The Yellow Foot Chanterelle on French menus:

Chanterelle a Pied Jaune Grille aux Noix de Saint-Jacques  –The yellow-foot chanterelle, grilled and served, with the meat of the king scallop

Veal, lemon, tomato, chanterelles.

Blanc de Cabillaud Vapeur, Mijotée de Chanterelles Jaune A filet of cod, which is France’s favorite fish, steamed and served with simmered yellow-foot chanterelles.

Filet de Chevreuil aux Craterelles – A fillet, the tenderloin, from the red deer served with the yellow-foot chanterelle. The red deer on this menu is farm-raised; if this was a wild deer then the menu would read chevreuil sauvage, wild red deer.

The Yellow Foot Chanterelle in the languages of France's neighbors:

(Catalan camagroc )(German - starkriechende pfifferling, gelbe kraterelle,  gelbe kantherelle), (Italian - cantarello giallo), (Spanish - trompeta amarilla, rebozuelo), (Latin - craterellus lutescens)

If you gather wild mushrooms when in France,
do not eat any that have not been checked!!!
Every town and village in France have a trained mycologist, a mushroom expert, and local pharmacists have these expert’s addresses. The infamous Jack O’ Lantern mushroom; in French the Pleurote de l'Olivier looks similar to some of the chanterelle mushrooms in the wild. Regular mushroom gatherers may easily spot the difference; however, you may not and it is poisonous and can make you very very sick!  In the kitchens of France’s restaurant's wild mushrooms, of all types, may be on the menu; however, chefs only buy wild mushrooms that have been clearly identified by the ramasseurs de champignons, the professional mushroom gatherers.

For more other mushrooms in France see these posts:



Bryan G Newman

Behind the French Menu
Copyright 2010, 2013, 2017, 2019.

For information on the unpublished book behind this blog, contact Bryan Newman.

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