from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Photograph courtesy of AANA, Agence de l’Alimentation Nouvelle Aquitaine
Lamproie de Rivière Européene, the River
Lamprey and the Lamproie Marine or Lamproie de Mer, the
Sea Lamprey - The French name lamproie, like lamprey
in English, covers all members of the lamprey family and there are quite a
number of members. However, in France, one of the two noted above will be
on your menu. The lamprey is a strange and jawless animal, neither a true fish
nor an eel. Lampreys are a unique and separate family of freshwater and
seawater animals.
Lamprey with lemon and bacon
Photograph and recipe courtesy of Marie Claire Cuisine et Vins
Lamproie à la Bordelaise – Lamprey prepared in the manner of Bordeaux; this is the most famous of all French lamprey recipes, and its origins go back to the Middle Ages. The lamprey is cooked with leeks, ham, onions, a red Bordeaux wine, and some of the lamprey’s own blood. Lampreys were and are considered a delicacy and depending on the area where this dish is served Cognac or Armagnac will be added for flavor. This is a recipe that takes lots of preparation, and as so it is quite an expensive dish.
The lamprey used in this dish is the Lamproie de Rivière Européene also called the Lamproie Fluviatile, Lamprillon or Flûte.
Photograph courtesy of AANA, Agence de l’Alimentation Nouvelle Aquitaine
Lamproie à la Nantaise - Lamprey in the manner of the city of Nantes. River Lamprey with red wine, button mushrooms and prunes. Nantes is the prefecture, the capital, of the department of Loire-Atlantique and the region of the Pays de Loire. It is built on both banks of the River Loire and while it is a large city it is regularly voted the best city in France to live and work in.
Photograph and recipe courtesy of Cuisine Actuelle.
Lamproie au Vin Blanc – This dish highlights lamprey and the Vouvray white wine made with Chenin Blanc grapes that grow along the banks of the Loire River. Also in the recipe will be Armagnac, Bayonne ham, Lardons, and a touch of the Piment d’Espelette pepper.
Lamprey with white wine
Photograph and recipe courtesy of Femme Actuelle
The European river
lamprey is mostly caught when they reach 35 cm (14“) long. They are
found along the Atlantic coasts of Europe, including the UK and Ireland, as
well as the French and Italian Mediterranean coasts. The sea lamprey is larger,
reaching 60cm (28“) or more. Sea Lampreys are caught when they return to
the rivers to spawn.
The European River
Lamprey
Photograph courtesy of the Guardian and Handout
The Lamprey Fete in Saint-Terre.
Members of the Brotherhood of the Lamprey in Sainte-Terre.
Photograph courtesy of the Sudouest
Sainte-Terre is close to
the city of Libourne the commercial hub of Bordeaux’s Right Bank wine
region. The Libournais wine region includes the appellations of Pomerol
and Saint Émilion.
Lamprey traditions in the UK
According to an article in The Guardian, it was traditional for Gloucester to send a Christmas lamprey
pie to the British monarch until 1836 when the practice was discontinued,
except for coronations and jubilees. In 2012 a pie was sent to Queen Elizabeth
II to mark her Diamond Jubilee but numbers of UK lampreys were so low that they
had to be imported from the Great Lakes of North America. Now, it seems the
river pollution in the UK has decreased and the river lamprey is returning in
large numbers.
Eating too many lampreys
can be bad for your digestion. King Henry I of England, (c. 1068 – 1135), the fourth
son of William the Conqueror. Henry died in Normandy, according to legend, from
a surfeit of lampreys.
The lamprey in the
languages of France’s neighbors:
The European River Lamprey - Lamproie de Tivière Européene or
Lamproie Fluviatile:
(Catalan - llampresa de riu), (Dutch
- amproye),(German – lamprete, lamprida), (Italian
- lampreda di fiume), (Spanish - lamprea de río), (Latin - lampetra
fluviatilis).
The Sea Lamprey or Great Sea Lamprey - La Lamproie
Marine or Lamproie de Mer:
(Catalan –llampresa de mar), (Dutch -Zeeprik),
(German - grosse lamprete, seelamprete), (Italian - lampreda di mare),
(Spanish - lamprea de mar), (Latiin
- petromyzon marinus).
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2016, 2023
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