Taureau de Camargue AOP. The Best Beef in France.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman


(Madame) 'Taureau de Camargue'
Photograph courtesy  of Gérard Meyer
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ferdinand23/54388435786/

The Taureau de Camargue  or Race de Biòu Camarguais (Raço di Biòu in the Provençale language)  was the first breed of French cattle to be awarded an AOC, now an AOP, for the unquestionably excellent and consistent quality of their meat. When the Taureau de Camargue is on the menu, you will have an opportunity to enjoy some of the best steaks or roasts that France can offer; in the winter fabulous stews will be on the menu.

The Camargue where the cattle are raised is a working nature reserve and part of the Delta of the Rhone River on France’s Mediterranean coast; it is partly in Provence, Alpes-Côte d'Azur; and partly in Occitanie.


The Gardiens
Photograph courtesy of yves P
www.flickr.com/photos/ypou34/7569136082/

The Taureau de Camargue AOP are completely free range and looked after by real French cowboys (called gardiens) who also look after the Camargue’s wild white horses. The breed has black and dark brown bulls and cows that are descended from the great Spanish fighting bulls; however, they are physically much smaller and are now considered an entirely separate species.  

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiVDayoxfyV1vPZIr1i5Yh4x5FxzC1eddhHpYM0d36Jde5UC_KvvbLUjnF8Dn2lZ5rj999bl7FdA_4ePHl6juQljK3all5Q9H6q0y-nGItEFMlARSMwOcpowr6XVuB2RUHzmocYNWAedHh/s320/Barry%252C+wild+horses+of+the+Camargue.jpg
Wild horses of the Camargue
Photograph courtesy of Barry.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beejd1044/34729434332/

Your first bite will tell you that the texture and taste of their Taureau is different, and there are reasons for that.  To hold their AOP, the animals must be antibiotic and growth hormone-free, and 90% of their food must come from natural grazing.

The Taureau de Camargue on French menus: 


Carpaccio de Taureau, Parmesan, Cebette et Câpres  -   A Carpaccio of Taureau de Camargue prepared with Parmesan cheese, spring onions and capers. While the Taureaux de Camargue are semi-wild, this will be a delicate serving of the flavorful Taureau beef, very thinly sliced and drizzled with olive oil—a light and authentic taste of the Camargue region.

The AOP olive oils of Provence and Occitanie are famous and the olive oil used for this dish will be one of the three that grow with a few miles of the Camargue:  The Vallée des Baux-de-Provence AOP, the Aix-en-Provence AOP or the Nîmes AOP. 

 

Côte de Taureau de Camargue Grillée au Thym, Sauté de Pomme de Terre à la Ciboule – A rib roast of Camargue beef, grilled with thyme and served with potatoes fried with scallions (green onions). Most French rib roasts have four ribs and will weigh three kilos or more, so you will be served slices. To choose how you prefer the meat cooked and to order meat cooked to the doneness you prefer click here.



Pavé de Taureau de Camargue
A Taureau de Camargue rump steak.
Photograph courtesy of patrick janicek
https://www.flickr.com/photos/marsupilami92/16897832010/

             

Entrecôte de Taureau de Camargue, Sauce Béarnaise, Pommes de Terre Rate au Four, Légumes du Moment - An entrecôte steak, a US or UK ribeye. An entrecote, in France, is nearly always grilled, and here it is served with Sauce Béarnaise.   Accompanying the steak are baked ratte potatoes, one of France's most popular potatoes, along with the freshest vegetables.

Sauce Béarnaise: Sauce Béarnaise (pronounced bay-are-naiz) is a superstar.  On steaks, chicken, salmon, vegetables or poached eggs, Sauce Béarnaise has been popular for almost 200 years.

The sauce is a "child" of Sauce Hollandaise.  In the 1830s, the chef and restaurateur Jean-Louis Françoise-Collinet took the recipe for Sauce Hollandaise, omitted the lemon juice and added white wine vinegar, échalotes, shallots; cerfeuil, chervil, and estragon, tarragon and made Sauce Béarnaise. It's the tarragon and white wine vinegar that supply the tang that makes us Sauce Béarnaise devotees.  The same chef Collinet, in the same restaurant, Pavillon Henry IV, 20 km (12.5 miles) from Paris, in 1837, created soufflé potatoes. The story of soufflé potatoes will need a separate post.

Ratte potatoes: This is a small French potato, also called the Asparge Potato. It is not a new variety in France but a born-again potato. This potato originally came from Denmark and went out of fashion for a few years. The Ratte was reintroduced and is again much appreciated for its taste and smooth, slightly buttery texture and its name will be on many menus.

In French, ratte does mean a rat or possibly a mouse; however, that just refers to its uncooked form. With a bit of imagination, these potatoes may resemble a crouching mouse or rat. This potato's fame is in the taste, not the name.

Now, to decide whether the English translation of a ratte should be a mouse or a rat, read Umberto Eco's book, A Mouse or a Rat: Translation as Negotiation.


Ratte potatoes
Photograph courtesy of Ashley Basil
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28438417@N08/35866747031/

Gardiane de Taureau et son Riz de Camargue – A slow-simmered, traditional stew from the Camargue region. This is the hearty, memorable dish prepared by the Gardians (Camargue cowboys), similar to a Provençal daube, but made exclusively with Taureau de Camargue beef, braised in red wine and herbs and served with the highly rated Camargue rice and for more about the foods grown and served on the Camargue click here).

The Gardians are the French cowboys of the Camargue. Their primary role is to manage and tend to the semi-feral herds of both Camargue cattle (taureaux) and horses.  (The herds are known as manades). The Gardian is typically a paid employee of the manadier (the herd owner), who profits from the sale of the cattle (used in the acrobaticcourses camarguaises and for meat) and the horses (used for work and tourism).

  

Pièce de Filet de Taureau de Camargue AOP Sauce au Vin Rouge, Purée de Pomme de Terre à l'Huile d'Olive – A tender fillet steak from the Taureau de Camargue prepared with a red wine sauce and served with pureed potatoes flavored with olive oil. 

The Course Camarguaise 

Among the Camargue's most cherished traditions is the Course Camarguaise, a unique acrobatic competition featuring the Taureau de Camargue cattle, most often the cows. This event is emphatically not a bullfight; it is an athletic competition where the raseteurs (competitors) attempt to retrieve tassels from the bull's horns. The cattle are" professionals" and the gardians (cowboys) take great care to ensure they are never harmed or wounded.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsB1UpeyxNWwuWmitsszuQQxCrZHsGYRU-SGi1BBejesf3FcDmCDOM-qpqba74-jjmEho30FM_tXOJI2M9yf8_dy0EI3gVhD-LyFa_9pUatq4F7T1dH1W2AIStYYEP3wG_Lwlwmjn5WM2/s320/Arnaud+DG+course+camarguise.jpg
A Course Camarguaise
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hern42/3930446271/
 

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Thyme in France. Thym, Serpolet, Farigoule and Thym Citron, Lemon Thyme in France. Thyme. One of the most important herbs in French cuisine.

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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
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