from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
The classic Carpaccio features exquisite, paper-thin slices of raw beef, meticulously arranged to almost entirely veil the serving plate. This cut of beef is typically marinated in extra virgin olive oil and the zest of fresh lemon. The beef is drizzled with a white sauce made from fresh mayonnaise, subtly enhanced with a dash of Worcestershire sauce and a hint of lemon juice for added tang. The only addition that is not part of the original Carpaccio will sometimes be a scattering of delicate Parmesan shavings. The marinated beef has a remarkable, almost silken tenderness, reminiscent of the finest, thinly sliced smoked salmon, yet with a flavor profile that is unmistakably Carpaccio."
Iberico Carpaccio, Piquillo, Mushrooms, Parmesan
Iberico Carpaccio is a Spanisg dish featuring thinly
sliced, raw Iberian pork known for its delicate texture and rich, nutty flavor
that comes from the acorn-rich diet of the Iberian pig.
A Piquillo a mild Spanish pepper,
Photograph courtesy of Kent Wang
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kentwang/6592649863/
The original Carpaccio did not
begin with a French chef; the Carpaccio’s ingenious creator was Giuseppe
Cipriani (1900–1980), the visionary owner of the legendary Harry’s Bar in
Venice. In the 1950s, Cipriani conceived a dish he called Carpaccio di Manzo—Italian
for Beef Carpaccio. The dish was name in honor of the celebrated
Venetian Renaissance painter Vittore Carpaccio (1460 - 1526). Legend has it
that the dish was specifically crafted for an Italian noblewoman whose doctor
had advised her against eating cooked meat.
Changes have been made to the original Carpaccio
While
the original remains a classic, the world of Carpaccio has expanded
dramatically since its Venetian inception. Today, you can still find the
quintessential paper-thin slices of beef, but the concept has expanded.
Carpaccios now feature a variety of meats, fish, shellfish, and vegetables.
Despite these diverse interpretations, all Carpaccios have at least one thing
in common: they are, by definition, uncooked. That being said, it's worth
noting that meats and fish are typically marinated, while shellfish versions
might be very lightly cooked.
Courgette (zucchini) Carpaccio with pistachios
and avocado
Photograph courtesy of Joy
www.flickr.com/photos/joyosity/9202209893/
French chefs, ever on the quest for fresh, clean tastes, quickly adopted the original Carpaccio, embracing it as their own. As a result, many variations of Carpaccio have become a staple on French menus even though most French diners know that its origin remains, indisputably, Italian.
Carpaccio on French menus:
Carpaccio
d'Espadon Mariné au Citron, Grenade et Pignons de Pins - Swordfish carpaccio marinated in lemon and pomegranate and served with pine nuts.
Swordfish Carpaccio
You may note that the colors of swordfish flesh can vary
from pale ivory to orange. However, the color does not reflect the quality or
taste; it reflects the area where the fish are caught and what they ate for
breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Photograph courtesy of Gary J. Wood
www.flickr.com/photos/garyjwood/4279139515/
Carpaccio de Boeuf, Mariné au Citron, à l'Huile d'Olive et
Parmesan. Beef
Carpaccio marinated with lemon and olive oil and served with shavings of
Parmesan cheese. However, while the
classic preparation remains the most popular, the world of beef Carpaccio
is far from monolithic. Chefs frequently experiment with different marinades,
and the choice of marinade can profoundly impact the final taste and texture.
Ask about the marinade and the sauce, and you may have found a personal
favorite that you'll look for again.
I am not sure when Parmesan was first added to a beef Carpaccio, but it's often an excellent addition as it creates
another sensation for the tongue. The key, however, is moderation:
Parmesan should act as an accent, enhancing the dish without overpowering
it.
On one occasion, I was served a
beef Carpaccio that was nearly covered in Parmesan cheese. I removed at least
80% of the cheese to a separate plate. The beef Carpaccio was excellent,
and the small amount of Parmesan was the perfect addition. Then, while waiting
for the main course, I requested some virgin olive oil and Balsamic vinegar. I dipped the restaurant's bread rolls in
olive oil, Balsamic vinegar, and cheese, and ate them together; they were a
perfect combination. That was two excellent entrées (the French first
course) for the price of one.
Venison Carpaccio
Photograph courtesy of Lian Chang
www.flickr.com/photos/diametrik/2270238582/
Carpaccio de Bœuf à l'Huile de Truffe
Blanche—Beef Carpaccio prepared with olive oil
flavored with white truffle. Truffle oil itself is made by steeping
truffles in virgin olive oil, allowing the oil to thoroughly absorb the
truffle's distinctive flavor. This method provides truffle flavor, even when
the truffles are out of season, for a fraction of the cost of fresh truffle
shavings. While the virgin olive oil contributes its own nuanced taste, a hint
of the truffle will also be there, though the texture will be missed.
Nevertheless, the unique texture and aroma of fresh truffle shavings will be
missed, but this aromatic compromise is undeniably beneficial to both your palate
and your budget.
It's important to clarify the specifics of the white
truffle often encountered on French menus. The truffe blanche, also
known as the truffe blanchâtre, is a pleasant variety typically
available from January through April. However, this should not be confused with
the far more flavorsome, significantly more expensive, and world-famous white
Italian truffle, the Truffe d'Alba. The Truffe d'Alba is
recognized as the most expensive truffle in the world.
In France, the black Truffe de Périgord, also
known as the Perigord Truffle, is considered the most intensely flavored and
most costly variety, followed closely by the Truffe de Bourgogne,
also known as the Burgundy Truffle.
Carpaccio de Bar, Vinaigrette aux Fruits de la Passion – A Carpaccio
made from bar, European sea bass, the fish. Here, the fish is marinated in vinaigrette sauce flavored with passion fruit.
Salmon Carpaccio.
Photograph courtesy of Gustavo Fumero
www.flickr.com/photos/127829733@N08/15301638029/
Carpaccio de Tomate
aux Fines Herbes et Échalotes, Feuille de Cœur de Sucrine, Betterave et Sorbet Cabécou - A Carpaccio of thinly sliced tomatoes,
flavored with Les
Fines Herbes—the essential blend of French herbs—and shallots.
The creation evolves with the tender leaves from the heart of a sweet
baby Romaine lettuce (sucrine), earthy beetroot, and a Cabécou goat cheese
sorbet. Even with the innovations, the connection to the Carpaccio concept
remains through its meticulous slicing and presentation though the sorbet
is a somewhat suprising addition.
Cabécou is the name
or part of the name of several goat's milk cheeses. All cheeses with Cabécou in their name are small and
weigh between 30 and 50 grams (1-1.75 oz.) each, and are made with
unpasteurized goat's milk. (The word Cabécou means a kid, a young goat, in the
Occitan dialect.)
A Beetroot Carpaccio
Photograph courtesy of Marco Verch
www.flickr.com/photos/149561324@N03/35728962973/
Vittore Carpaccio: The Artist Behind the Dish.
Vittore
Carpaccio came from a family of famous
painters, with a renowned painter for a father and another renowned painter for
a brother. Sadly, none of Carpaccio’s descendants, if they
could be found, receive any royalties for that popular dish named after their
ancestor. Despite that, every Carpaccio on a menu honors the artist who
might otherwise have remained unknown to many.
Carpaccio’s real name was Scarpazzaa, and so he changed it to Carpaccio. (I think that if I had been born with a name like Scarpazzaa, I might also have changed my name.) If Vittore had not changed his name, we might find Scarpazzaa de Bœuf on the menu, and I am not sure that it would have had the same level of success of a Carpaccio.
The Colors of Carpaccio: Art and Food Converge
The visual connection between the artist and the dish extends beyond the name. Vittore Carpaccio frequently employed a striking palette of red and white in his artworks, a color scheme that recurs throughout nearly all his paintings. This deliberate use of red and white gave the dish’s Venetian creator, Giuseppe Cipriani, the idea for the dish’s name. In the original beef Carpaccio, the vibrant red of the thinly sliced beef contrasts beautifully with the pristine white of its accompanying sauce. This subtle yet powerful repetition of colors creates the enduring visual homage from Cipriani to the painter.
Carpaccio’s Flight into Egypt
The original of this painting is in the National
Gallery of Art,
Washington D.C.
Photograph courtesy of Art Gallery ErgsArt - by ErgSap
www.flickr.com/photos/ergsart/22108739190/
From Plate to Canvas: Where to See Carpaccio's Art
If you want to see a Carpaccio
on the wall instead of on your plate, his art can be found in renowned museums
worldwide. You can visit the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C., the
Louvre in Paris, and the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles. However, for the
most comprehensive experience, you must visit Venice. There, the single largest
and most significant collection of Vittore Carpaccio's works is housed
within the Guildhall of the Dalmatians (the Scuola Dalmata S.ti Giorgio e
Trifone), offering an unparalleled glimpse into the artist's prolific
career.
Harry’s Bar, Venice.
Harry's Bar, in the magical
city of Venice, holds a storied place in culinary history. Its founder, Giuseppe
Cipriani, is not only credited with the creation of the Beef Carpaccio
but also with inventing the famed Bellini cocktail made with fresh white
peach purée and the crisp Prosecco sparkling wine. This cocktail also bears the name of another
illustrious Venetian Renaissance painter, Giovanni Bellini (1430–1516).
Like its savory counterpart, the Bellini has been widely admired and
adapted, leading to numerous modern variations such as Rum Bellinis and Vodka
Bellinis.
The Genesis of a Legend
Harry’s Bar Venice is named
after Harry Pickering, an American who gave the owner Giuseppe Cipriani the
funds needed to found the bar. At the time Cipriani had been a bartender at the
Hotel Europa where Harry Pickering was a frequent visitor. With this crucial
support, Cipriani opened Harry's Bar in 1931. (The Europa hotel (Europa
and Brittania) is now called the Westin Europa and Regina). It's
important to note that this Venetian institution is the original Harry's Bar
and bears no relation to the numerous other establishments that have adopted
the name in different cities worldwide. It is worth stopping by for their
coffee and chocolate cake at midnight even if it costs around USD 40.00 for
one. It's a small indulgence to be part of a living piece of Venetian history
and included in that price is, no doubt, support for the owner's bank
loans and this Italian national landmark. Harry’s Bar, in 2001 was added
to the list of Italy's National Landmarks by the Italian government.
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2014, 2017, 2025.
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