Behind the French Menu: Lieu Noir

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Reeling Pollack in.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/23629083@N03/20043481533/

Lieu Jaune or Colin – Pollack, the fish. In the UK also called Callagh, Coley, Coalfish, Margate Hake, Dover Hake and Lythe, and in the USA the European Pollock.

Pollack is a member of the cod family with similar white, flaky meat so that it will often be cooked and served with cod recipes. When offered as poached or baked filets pollack is usually served with a sauce as it on its own it can be somewhat dry. Pollack grow quite large with many fish weighing in over 8 kilos (18 lbs), so you will be served a fillet.

Filet of baked pollack.

Photograph courtesy of Ewan Munro

https://www.flickr.com/photos/55935853@N00/4485844101/

When a fish on a French menu is named Colin then failing some clarification I choose something else. Colin in France can be the name of any at least three or more fish including Lieu Jaune, pollack, Lieu Noir, saithe, and Merlu, hake. The other fish have similar tastes and texture; nevertheless, I choose something else because I like to know what I am actually eating. Using the name Colin just tells me the restaurant is not really sure what they bought. However, confusion exists outside France as well; pollack has many names in the UK and is often mistaken for a family member called walleye pullack in the UK and Alaskan pollock in the USA.

Pollack on French Menus:

Filet de Lieu Jaune à l'Huile d'Olive, Risotto de Pommes de Terre au Wakame – Filet of pollack cooked with olive oil and served with a potato risotto flavored with wakame seaweed.

Lieu Jaune Fumé aux Aiguilles de Pin – Pollack smoked over pine needles.

Le Duo de Lotte et Lieu Jaune Sauce Champagne – A matched serving of monkfish and pollack in a Champagne sauce.

A filet of poached pollack.

Photograph courtesy of stu_spivack

https://www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/15065518687/

Escalope de Lieu Jaune Pochée au Beurre d'Agrumes – A filet of pollack poached in grapefruit flavored butter.

Dos de Lieu Jaune Avec des Gnocchis de Potimarron aux Algues Nori, Jus de Moules - A thick cut from the back of a large pollack, (considered the tastiest portion), served with gnocchi made with pumpkin and nori seaweed and flavored with the cooking juices from mussels.