Behind the French Menu

Saint Nectaire AOP - Saint Nectaire Cheese. Saint Nectaire is an AOP Cow's Milk Cheese from the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Sainte-Nectaire Cheese

https://www.flickr.com/photos/claveirole/6652778023/

The town of Saint Nectaire .

The small town of Saint Nectaire is in the department Puy-de-Dôme in the region of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. The town was known as a spa in Roman times and today offers modern spa facilities, the ancient roman spa may be visited. The cheese called Saint Nectaire is, obviously, named after the town, and has been produced since the 17th century. Some of the cheese is also produced over the departmental border in the department of Cantal.

Saint Nectaire Cheese

Photograph courtesy of Susanne

The cheese is a 22.5% fat, cows’ milk cheese aged for at least 28 days for the original cheese and 21 days for the newer and smaller Petit-Saint-Nectaire. Despite those ages being the legal minimums it takes four to five weeks to really age a Petit-Saint-Nectaire and six weeks to age a farm-made full-size cheese. Some cheeses will be aged for two to three months. The aging is of great importance since the matured Saint Nectaire is soft cheese with little-ragged holes throughout; the cheese should be spreadable at room temperature Better to buy a farm aged cheese in a Fromagerie, a cheese shop, than a dairy produced cheese that may have been placed too early on a supermarket shelf. A properly aged cheese has a soft, spreadable paste, of a creamy color with a hint of hazelnut and mushrooms and a memorable smell. The farm made cheeses are all made with unpasteurized milk; the dairies produce the cheese with pasteurized cheese and unpasteurized cheese for export. The pasteurized cheese may be taken into the USA. For information on buying cheese in France and taking it home, with all the French you will need, click here.

The cheese is made in two round-shaped sizes, the regular Saint-Nectaire weighs some 1800 gms (4 lbs) and the “Petit-Saint-Nectaire” weighs about 600 grams (23 ounces).

The cheeses are washed regularly in salt water on rye straw mats on which the cheese ages. Depending on how old the cheese is, the rind can be white, brown or gray, and with orange, yellow, or red patches. If the cheese's rind has a uniform color, it may not be sold as a Saint-Nectaire cheese.

The Fermier, farm produced cheeses are marked with a small oval label in a green frame and a white square label marks the dairy, Laitier, cheeses. In 1996, an AOP, a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) rating was given to "Saint-Nectaire and later to the Petit-Saint-
Nectaire.

A Fermier Saint Nectaire

Photograph courtesy of the Fromagerie "Les Alpages" Saint Nectaire

In Saint Nectaire there is a museum, which shows the history and the methods of production of Saint-Nectaire. It is called “La Maison du Saint-Nectaire”, the House of Saint-Nectaire. Their website is in French but is easily translated and understood using the Bing or Google translation apps. The Museum is located in the village of Saint-Nectaire, on the main road to Murol.

Saint Nectaire on French Menus

Fondue au St Nectaire, Jambon d'Auvergne et Saucisson, Salade Mêlée – A Saint-Nectaire cheese fondue accompanied by Auvergne cured ham, an Auvergne sausage, and a mixed salad. A traditional Auvergne sausage is a small salami type sausage, about 100 grams (3.5 oz), made with pork, pork fat and beef. When served in a dish like this the sausage is often grilled though it may be eaten cold.

The winter road to Saint Nectaire
Visiting is best done in the summer.

Photograph courtesy of (vincent desjardins)

Les Poires au Saint Nectaire - Pears served with Saint Nectaire. This may be on a restaurant instead of a cheese plate which will include three or four different cheeses.

Tarte Chaude aux Pommes et Saint Nectaire - Hot apple pie served with Saint-Nectaire.

Cœur de Ris de Veau Braisé Pomme Fondante au Saint Nectaire – A center cut of braised veal sweetbreads served with roast potatoes covered in Saint-Nectaire. (Your French-Engish travel dictionary may translate "fondante" as melted, but in French cuisine "fondante" also indicates roasted when mentioned with potatoes).

Veal Sweetbreads.

Photograph courtesy of Javier Lastras

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jlastras/3240152124/

Pavé de Rumsteck au Saint Nectaire – A Rump steak prepared with Saint Nectaire. For ordering a steak cooked the way you prefer click here.

The small town and the Church of Saint Nectaire.

Photograph courtesy of Jori Avlis

The La Maison du Saint-Nectaire, cheese is a neighbor.

The town of Riom-ès-Montagnes, the home of the Auvergne’s Bleu d”Auvergne AOP cow’s milk strongly flavored blue cheese and the center for growing gentian plants in France is just 60 km (38 miles) from Saint Nectaire The other AOP cheeses of the Auvergne are the Cantal AOP and Salers AOP, both hard, yellow, cow’s milk cheeses and the Fourme d’Ambert AOP, a blue veined, mild, cow’s milk cheese. Apart from these five AOP rated cheeses, there are many other excellent cheeses in the Auvergne. Among these other cheeses are some that are very tasty with unique methods of manufacture; however, alone that is not enough for an AOP. These other cheeses either do not have a large enough production or enough years of inspection to apply for an AOP. While you are in the area I extol the pleasures that are found in many other local cheeses, AOP or no. The local Fromagerie may make recommendations and allow you to taste a sliver before buying. For information on buying cheese in France and taking it home, with all the French you will need, click here.

Murol and Chambon-Sur-Lac are neighbors.

Just 5km away from Saint Nectaire are the towns that are famous for the Murol or Murol du Grand Bérioux cheese. The Murol or Murol du Grand Bérioux is a mild, creamy, 45% fat yellow cow’s milk cheese made from pasteurized cow’s milk; the cheese is matured for a minimum of five weeks before being sold. This is a relatively new cheese created in the 1930’s by a local cheese maker, Jules Bérioux; his name is still on many of the labels. The cheese is produced in the area around the villages of Murol and Chambon sur Lac next to the beautiful Lake Chambon. As a new cheese, Murol du Grand Bérioux is less than 100 years old and probably to young to apply for an AOC!

Local English language websites:

The Mural Tourism Information Office

The Chambon-sur-Lac Tourist Information office

The Saint Nectaire Tourist Information Office

Lac Chambon by Marc Chagall.

http://www.allposters.com/-st/Exclusive-Products-Posters_c99704_.html

Saint Nectaire, Mural, and Chambon-sur-Lac are all close to the heart of the Regional Natural Volcano park of the Auvergne. Close by is the highest dormant volcano in France: the Puy de Sancy 1,886 meters ( 1,17 miles) in height. This is a huge park comprised of outstanding landscapes, fauna, and flora and some 80 extinct Volcanoes.

The park’s English language website is:

http://www.auvergne-tourism.com/regional-nature-parks/the-auvergne-volcanoes-park-279-2.html

Inside the Volcano Park.

Photograph courtesy of hellolapomme

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hellolapomme/2248532201/

Dining in the Auvergne will show a broad range of enjoyable and unique dishes for all tastes. Among the special dishes of the Auvergne is the Coq au Vin de Chanturgue – The original Coq au Vin. Most chefs accept that the original coq au vin was prepared with the Chanturgue AOC/AOP red wine of the Auvergne. For more about ordering a traditional Coq au Vin see the post: Coq au Vin, the Traditional Version is Much More Than Just a Chicken Stewed in Wine.

Connected Posts:

AOC and AOP on France's Foods and Wine labels? Why did the AOC become an AOP?

Bleu d'Auvergne AOP, the French Blue Cheese. Bleu d'Auvergne in French Cuisine.

Buying Cheese in France. Bringing French Cheese Home and a Lexicon for buying French Cheese.

Cantal and Salers; Two of the Best Cheeses From the Auvergne, France.

Coq au Vin, the Traditional Version is Much More Than Just a Chicken Stewed in Wine.

Dining in the Auvergne. Auvergnat dishes on French Menus.

Fourme d'Ambert AOP - One of the Auvergne’s Very Special cheeses.

Ordering a Steak in France, Cooked the Way you Like it.

Sausages in France. A Short Introduction to France’s World of Sausages. The Sausages of France III.

Sweetbreads in French cuisine, Ris de Veau (d'Agneau) on French Menus. When sweetbreads are on the menu in France do not pass them by.

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Cigale de Mer – The Slipper Lobster. The Slipper Lobster on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

The slipper lobster

Photograph courtesy of Animacuatic:

The Cigale de Mer, Macietta or Chambri.

The slipper lobster.

In the area of Marseilles the slipper lobsters are called chambri and there their tails will end up in a true Marseilles Bouillabaisse; in the area of Nice they are called macietta, and there their tails will probably be in a soup or served in a manner similar to one of the dishes noted below.

Slipper lobsters are a whole family of short-clawed lobsters with a very distant relationship to the two-clawed lobster. The cigale de mer that are on many menus in the South of France are all caught in the Mediterranean; though most will not be caught by French fishers. Most cigales are about 20cm (8”) in length or less and all the meat is in the tail, the “queue.” The tail is the last third of the overall length, that’s about 7cm (3”). If a single small tail is served as the plat principal, the main course, you may be hungry. Ask the waiter how the dish is served.

Cigale in your French-English travel dictionary.

Your French-English dictionary might translate cigale as a cicada, grasshopper or locust. However, worry not; the cigale de mer is nothing like a cicada, grasshopper or locust, neither in its looks nor in its feeding habits. French culinary tradition is full of names given to dishes and or their ingredients that have no connection at all to the real looks or the formal name. Slipper lobsters are fairly close to the rock lobster and spiny lobster family called the langouste in French. The rock and spiny lobsters are the owners of the tasty lobster tail. The European two-clawed lobster, homard in French, is a far more distant family member.

Cigale de Mer – The small slipper lobster.

Photograph courtesy of Universita Degli Studi di Torino

The slipper lobster tail and the rock lobster tail.

Slipper lobster tails are often prepared with recipes created for rock lobster tails. The meat of the Mediterranean slipper lobster’s tail is tasty, but they are smaller than rock lobster tails, often much smaller. They are also a little tougher than most rock lobster’s tails.

Marseilles Bouillabaisse and the slipper lobster.

The most famous dish that includes the slipper lobster is the Marseilles Bouillabaisse. This very special saffron and garlic fish stew dish is based on the rascasse, the scorpion fish, along with other fish cooked in a special fish stock and served along with a spicy, garlicky, thick, rouille sauce added by the diner to his or her taste. To preserve this traditional dish and expose many inaccurate additions a group of chefs and restaurateurs set out the Charter of the Bouillabaisse Marseillaise.

Bouillabaisse

Photograph courtesy of mari

https://www.flickr.com/photos/birdies-perch/407676260/

In the Charter, the only authorized crustacean is the cigale de mer, the slipper lobster. Nevertheless, despite the charter, many restaurants that prepare Bouillabaisse today still add to the dish other crustaceans, fish, and seafood. Despite these restaurant's disrespect for tradition, you will not suffer if the additions are well prepared.

The slipper lobster on French menus:

Cigales de Mer aux Pâtes Fraiches – The meat from a slipper lobster tail served with fresh pasta.

Queues de Cigale de Mer Grillées – Grilled slipper lobster tails.

Queue de Cigale de Mer Rôtie au Beurre de Persil dans une Marinière de Coquillages aux Légumes - A slipper lobster tail roasted in parsley butter and served with mussels and vegetables prepared in the manner of a mariner. In French culinary tradition, a dish prepared for a mariner will usually come with a white wine sauce. Other shellfish may also be included in this menu listing. Ask.

Queues de Cigales de Mer Grillées, Sauce Tamarin et Lime - Grilled slipper lobster tails served with a sauce made from the tamarind, the fruit, and lime juice. (The tamarind fruit seen on French menus comes mostly from France’s Indian Ocean region of La Réunion). From the outside the tamarind is rather unattractive, to say the least. Nevertheless, inside, apart from the seeds the pulp is appreciated as a fruit juice and is also dried and used in tisanes, fruit teas, while for the commercial food industry the tamarind is a very important. The tamarind is used in the food industry for flavor with many other food products and is one of the ingredients of Worcestershire Sauce.

The tamarind fruit.

Photograph courtesy of Malcolm Manners

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mmmavocado/4254551148/

Queue de Cigale Rôtie, Risotto Safran et Croustillant de Kadaïf - Roasted slipper lobster tail, served with a saffron risotto and crispy Kadaïf.

(Kadaïf is a pasta like vermicelli, those very thin pasta strands also called angels’ hair, made from wheat flour, corn starch, salt, and water. It is also called knafeh, konofa, and kadaïfia among many similar names. Kadaïf is seen all over North Africa and the Middle East as well as in Turkey and Greece and Albania. Many different kadaïf pastries, both savory and sweet, are traditional. The sweet pastries come with added sugar syrup and honey).

Shrimps, when cooked, have meat that will be white, pinkish or bluish-white and firm when cooked. If it you are served a shrimp that is soft or pasty then it is not fresh; do not eat it. Send it back. Do not eat pasty shrimps unless they are being sold as fish paste!

Photograph courtesy of Cuisiner à Table

Queues de Cigales de Mer Sautées aux Cornes d’Abondance et Cresson - Slipper lobster tails lightly fried with wild black trumpet mushrooms and watercress.

There are over ninety members of the slipper lobster found in warm waters all around the world. The Cigale de Mer has been over-fished and has been protected in French waters since 1999.

Two Cigales de Mer, slipper lobsters.

Photograph courtesy of Philippe Guillaume

The Cigale de Mer, the Mediterranean slipper lobster in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - escil·làrids), (Dutch - scyllaridae), (German –bärenkrebs), (Italian – cicala di mar or magnosella), (Spanish – esciláridos, santiaguiños).

Connected Posts:

Beurre - Butter in French. Butter in French Cuisine.

Bouillabaisse and Bouillabaisse Marseillaise on French Menus and Links to Recipes for Bouillabaisse.

Citron – The lemon; the fruit behind many of France’s culinary successes. Also the Citron Vert - Lime, the Cedrat – the Citron, the Combava – the kaffir lime and the Chadec - the Pomelo

Cresson, Cresson de Fontaine - Watercress on the French Menu.

Homard - The Two Clawed European Lobster. Homard on French Menus.

Langouste. Lobster Tails and the Tails’ Owner, the Rock Lobster, Spiny Lobster or Crawfish. Langouste on French menus.

Miel - Honey. The Many, Varied and Wonderful Honeys of France. Honey on French Menus

Moules - Mussels. Moules Frites and Much More. Moules on French Menus.

Rascasse - The Scorpion or Sea Robin family of fishes in French cuisine.

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2016, 2024.

Souris d'Agneau - Lamb Shank. Souris d'Agneau, Lamb Shank, is One of the Tastiest Lamb Dishes on a French Menu.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Souris d’Agneau - A lamb shank

Photograph courtesy of patrick janicek

https://www.flickr.com/photos/marsupilami92/26325089461/

Souris d’Agneau is a dish made with a cut from close to the end of a leg of lamb, the shank. In France this dish is always prepared and served with the bone left in; the bone and bone marrow provides lots of flavors. A lamb shank is another of those cuts that were, until recently, rarely offered to those who dined in restaurants. The restaurateurs and chefs prepared the more expensive cuts for their guests; the souris d’agneau and similar cuts were looked upon as food for the farmers and farm workers. However, the farmers knew that this low-cost cut makes a delicious dish; it would be cooked slowly and naturally with no celebrity chef required.

In the last few years or so there has been a minor revolution in French cuisine with a quite a number of well-trained chefs leaving their position as the second in command in an acclaimed restaurant to open their own venue. They brought to France’s rather blasé restaurant clientele new, succulent, and, relatively, inexpensive dishes. In a very short time, souris d’agneau was starring for France’s gourmets.

The choicest cuts of lamb and beef are the fillets; they are cuts from the tenderloin. The tenderloins are muscles that do little work and hence are very tender; unfortunately, on their own, these cuts have little taste. To justify the high prices on the menu and provide taste a fillet will be prepared with a sauce and often served with expensive extras. Whereas, the shank being a leg muscle that does lots of work will be delicious but tough: for that reason, a souris d’agneau, the lamb shank, is always prepared as part of a stew or a very slowly cooked confit and the meat will be soft and the taste exceptional.

While a souris d’agneau is quickly prepared to achieve its potential it is a dish that takes hours to cook, and not every home cook wants to spend hours checking on a single dish in the kitchen. Souris d’agneau really is a recipe designed for restaurants; they have the time and the staff to control the slow process. The souris d’agneau, correctly prepared, will be cooked very slowly. on a low heat, in its own fat and juices. The slow, low, heat breaks down the muscle and other tissues. The meat will practically melt in your mouth with all the taste locked in, and that’s the beauty of a souris d’agneau.

Lamb shanks on French menus:

Souris D’Agneau Braisée 4 Heures, Jus Corsé aux Senteur des Garrigues, Légumes Rôtis Et Pomme Fondante - A lamb shank braised for four hours and served with its Jus Corse, its natural cooking juices flavored with the herbs of the Garrigues. Accompanying the lamb are roast vegetables and roast potatoes. The word Fondante in “Pomme de Terre Fondante” is another case where your French-English travel dictionary may unintentionally mislead you. Fondant does mean melted when translated correctly; however, when used with potatoes fondante will be indicating that the potatoes will have been roasted, with flavorings that can vary as the chef may choose a medley of herbs that provide the seasoning and scents from the Garrigues.

The Garrigues.

Photograph courtesy of Christine und Hagen Graf

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hagengraf/5621425518/

The Garrigues are the windswept deforested limestone hills that run from Languedoc-Roussillon to the Alpilles and Maquis of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur. The Alpilles, Garrigues and the Maquis now attract farmers who see the most desolate or scrub filled hills as a challenge. The farmers collect wild herbs and spices on their unique properties, and they are reintroducing other herbs that had been decimated by the wind in these practically treeless promontories. These farmers also raise goats and sheep for their milk and cheese. Life is returning to the Alpilles, Garrigues and the Maquis. N.B. The regions of Languedoc-Roussillon and its neighbor the Midi-Pyrénées are since 1-1-2016 joined together as the super region of Occitanie.

Souris d'Agneau à la Flamande, à la Gueuze Girardin et aux Raisins – A lamb shank prepared in the manner of the Flemish. The Flemish or Fleming people are the Dutch-speaking Belgians mostly living in the North of Belgium. This version of souris d’agneau is flavored with a “gueuze” beer and grapes. This is a Belgian beer produced by a brewery called Girardin. Their “gueuze” beer, I was told, is made from distilled beers from different years and comes in filtered and unfiltered versions. However, I am not an expert on Belgian beers or any other beer for that matter, and so you will need to ask the waiter for more information. On the other hand with Belgium producing over 650 different beers you should buy a book on Belgian beer.

There are many Belgian chain restaurants in France; most specialize in serving excellent moules frites, mussels and French fries, chips, accompanied by fresh mayonnaise. These Belgian imports also serve Belgian beer. So a book on Belgium beer can come in handy even in France. (For the link on how to order beer in France, including Belgian beer click here).

Girardin 1882 Geuze Beer

Photograph courtesy of Bernt Rostad

https://www.flickr.com/photos/brostad/9127706240/

Souris d’Agneau Confite Ecrasé de Pommes de Terre et Confit d’Oignons - A lamb shank slowly cooked and served with hand-mashed potatoes and a confit of onions. Once again your French-English travel dictionary may create a translation problem. “Ecrasé de Pommes de Terre” may translate as crushed potatoes, but worry not, the potatoes will be hand-mashed not crushed. The menu listing here is accenting the difference between these hand-mashed potatoes with texture and regular machine-mashed potatoes that are just pureed potatoes. N.B. A confit of vegetables, noted in this menu listing as a confit d’oignons, is very different to a lamb or other meat confit. A vegetable or a fruit confit is slowly cooked until it achieves the consistency of a jam. (To see the link covering the broad range of uses of the word confit in French cuisine click here).

Souris d'Agneau Braisé, Jus au Romarin et Haricots Tarbais – Lamb shank braised and served in its natural cooking juices flavored with the herb rosemary and accompanied by the Label Rouge, red label, Tarbais beans. The town of Tarbes has been growing and improving on their white dried beans since the first beans arrived in Tarbes from South America in the 17th century. If you are near Tarbes between mid-august to October, you may be offered the fresh variety of these beans, but throughout France, other restaurants will be offering the highly rated Tarbaise rehydrated dried white beans. The Tarbes beans were the first white dried bean to receive a Label Rouge grading for their unique and consistent quality. Tarbes is in the department of the Hautes-Pyrénées in what was the region of the Midi-Pyrénées. The Midi-Pyrénées’ is now part of the super region of Occitanie.

Haricot Tarbais Label Rouge.

Photograph courtesy of Keldelice. www.keldelice.com/

Souris d'Agneau Mijotée, Concassé de Tomates Fraîches, Jus au Thym – A lamb shank slowly simmered and served with the lamb’s natural cooking juices flavored with thyme, accompanied by coarsely chopped fresh tomatoes. (Mijotée in French cuisine indicates a dish that is simmered in its cooking process, being slowly cooked just below boiling. The word is often, as is the case here, interchangeable with the word “braise “braised).

Souris d’Agneau with polenta and olives

Photograph courtesy of Amy Ross

www.flickr.com/photos/donutgirl/2155208677/

Souris d'Agneau Confite et Son Risotto Parmigiano - Lamb shank confit served with a risotto flavored with Parmesan cheese,

Duck, Goose and Pork confits as well a fruit and vegetable confits are prepared differently to confits of lamb. For more about the various confits that may be on your menu click here.

A problem that may arise when considering whether to order a souris d’agneau may again be blamed on your French-English dictionary. French- English dictionaries correctly translate souris as a mouse! That may give you second thoughts about ordering a souris d'agneau. Despite the dictionary, worry not, there are no mice here, and there never were. Someone, eons ago, decided that the cut looked like a mouse or a rat and the name souris stuck. The French have hundreds of names for food dishes that have nothing to do with the dishes they are associated with, and the souris d’agneau is one of them. A confit de souris d’agneau is one of the tastiest lamb dishes you will ever have tasted, so don’t miss out.

Souris d'Agneau @ Hôtel Restaurant Coulier

Photograph courtesy of Patrick Nouhailler

https://www.flickr.com/photos/patrick_nouhailler/6045025761/

A serving of souris d’agneau with the bone will be around 350 grams (12 ounces) or maybe a little more; the bone takes 50% - 60% of the weight, that’s about 170 grams (6 ounces) of meat: it is an acceptable size for a dish like this and despite that I have seen this dish served with a portion that must have been 50% larger. Ask.

N.B. The cut used for a lamb osso buco, the French jarret d’agneau is a cut across the bone from slightly higher up the leg.

Souris d’Agneau in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - melos de xai ), (Dutch - lamsschenkel ), (German – lammschenkel), (Italian - stinco di agnello ribalta ), (Spanish - pata de cordero)

Connected Posts:

Confit? All About That Confit on Your French Menu. Confit in French Cuisine,

Frites or Pomme Frites - French Fries in the USA and Chips in the UK. French Fries on French Menus.

Haricot Tarbais – The Bean from Tarbes is one of France’s Favorite Beans. The Haricot Tarbais on French Menus.

Jarret de Veau. The Dish Called Osso Buco in Italian. In France, Jarret is Also a Cut Used for Many Other Dishes Made With Veal, Beef, Lamb and Pork.

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Mayonnaise Fraîche - In France all Mayonnaise is Fresh Mayonnaise

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