from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Lieu Noir
Pollock, Saithe, Coley
Lieu Noir (Goberge in Canada) – Pollock, Saithe, and Coley are a large, tasty member of the cod
family, and will be on many French menus.
Whole fish are anywhere from 30 cm (12”)
to 60 cm (24”) long, though they can reach twice that length. They are caught in
the North Atlantic with some larger fish flown home as chilled whole fish and
the rest being delivered as frozen fish fillets. In any case, with nearly all the fish being large enough for two or more, you will only be served a filet.
A Lieu Noir- Pollock fish filet.
While Pollock is considered a white fish it has a darker section that can be seen here.
Lieu Noir, are more strongly flavored
than the similarly named and equally popular Lieu Jaune.
Lieu Noir has other regional names French
names that include Colin and Merluche. But it shares those names with Lieu Jaune–Pollack (with the a), and Callagh. The reasons behind these mostly harmless
cross-channel confusions are related to earlier times, but there is no longer
anyone around to blame.
Catch your own. 17lb 4oz – 8 kilos.
Lieu Noir, in the UK Pollock, Saithe, and Coley is a favorite for fish and chips. While the French have never bought
into the UK art of deep batter fried fish and greasy chips the fish is very
popular in France and will be on French menus with other flavors:
Lieu Noir on French
Menus:
Filet de Lieu Noir, Perles de Couscous, Poireaux et Oignons Rouge – A filet of pollock accompanied by grains of couscous, leeks, and red onions.
Dos de Lieu Noir en Croute de Sésame, Sauce Whisky et Purée de Patates
Douces – A thick
cut of Pollock/Saithe cooked
covered with sesame seeds and served in a Scotch Whisky sauce; all accompanied by a puree of sweet
potatoes.
Dos was the term used for a thick cut from the back of a large game
fish or wild game; it is considered the tastiest portion. Despite the origin of “dos” on the menu
today it will mostly indicate a thick filet.
Dos de Lieu Noir à l'Estragon
A thick cut of
pollock flavored with tarragon.
www.flickr.com/photos/marsupilami92/7073674435/
Lieu Noir en Cocotte
de Palourdes
et Coques
– Pollock
prepared in a casserole with clams
and cockles.
When the menu notes en cocotte, it will
usually be informing you that the bowl used for cooking is also the dish that
will be used to serve you.
Filet de Lieu Noir, Perles de Couscous, Poireaux et Oignons Rouge – A filet of pollock accompanied by grains of couscous, leeks, and red onions.
Clams and cockles.
www.flickr.com/photos/marsupilami92/33584640984/
Dos De Lieu Noir, Sauce Ciboulette
et Chou-Fleur – A thick cut of pollock prepared with chives
and cauliflower.’’
Ceviche de Lieu Noir Aux Légumes Printaniers – Cold, marinated pollock accompanied by
crunchy spring vegetables.
Ceviche
www.flickr.com/photos/cyclonebill/3599576717/
Dos de Lieu Noir, sur Mousseline de Panais
et sa Crème au Coquillages – A thick cut of
pollock served on a parsnip
moose, accompanied by a creamy crustacean sauce.
Dos de Lieu Noir, Salicornes,
Cresson
et Emulsion Sariette – A thick cut of Pollock/Saithe served with Samphire/
Salicornia, watercress,
and a thick summer
savory sauce.
Samphire is often, mistakenly, called an edible seaweed; it is
not. It is a coastal plant, with many
family members, and grows in salt marshes and even in the sand along the
coast. The mildly salty and slightly
bitter taste of Samphire along with its crunchy texture (when properly cooked)
allows it to partner well in many salads when served cold or when served warm
with fish or shellfish.
Fish, leeks, and
tomatoes,
www.flickr.com/photos/laurelfan/2305920409/
Filet de Lieu Noir,
Aubergines et Poivrons à la Sarriette et son Écrasé de Pomme de Terre – Filet of Pollock/Saithe
prepared with aubergines and bell peppers and flavored with summer savory. Accompanied by hand-mashed potatoes.
Pollock in the languages of France's neighbors:
(Catalan – pollachius), (Dutch - koolvis ), (German – blaufisch), (Italian - merluzzo nero), (Spanish – bacalao, saithe, palero carbonero, faneca plataeada, fogonero), (Latin - pollachius virens).
-----------------------------------
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
Copyright 2010,
2019, 2023.
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
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