from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
bryangnewman@gmail.com
Boucherie
Charcuterie Traiteur Pouzadoux
In
Sainte-Maxime in Provence on the French Riviera
Photograph courtesy of Pouzadoux
Before restaurants existed, traiteurs were
the people you called when you wanted a cooked meal, especially roasted meats.
They delivered directly to customers’ homes, and when restaurants with big
menus started cutting into their business, they adapted by opening shops that
sold prepared soups, salads, stews, along with cooked meat and fish dishes.
Today, as combined charcuterie–traiteurs,
they sell just about every kind of prepared food you can think of. In the
cities, you’ll find establishments that are masterclasses in the best that
France has to offer. Most don’t offer seating, but in the summer, you’ll
sometimes see a few tables and chairs set up outside.
Now, however, supermarkets are competing
with the high-end delicatessens as everyone wants a part of the upscale food
business. The larger supermarkets have added cooked-food departments, with a
wide array of products along with the requisite mouth-watering displays. The charcuterie–traiteurs
are fighting back, expanding their choices and upping the services they offer.
Charcuterie and cheeses
Walk into the best charcuterie-traiteur in
any city, and you are at the entry point to the vast landscape of French
cuisine. These shops are much more than mere delis; they are the showcase of
France’s culinary arts, with many offering regional specialties from nearly
every corner of the country.
A French family, often with little prior
notice, may walk into a high-end charcuterie-traiteur and order a 5-star,
7-course dinner for family and guests; at home it will be served on the finest
family china. The meal carries the imprint of a great cook, allowing the host
to provide a gourmet experience without actually spending the day in the
kitchen.
Dinner with a charcuterie-traiteur prepared Marseille Bouillabaisse.
I’ve been invited to dinners where the catering came from a
charcuterie–traiteur, and I’ve enjoyed seriously well‑prepared French cuisine served with fine wines. To
finish the meal, there have been perfectly aged cheeses and fabulous desserts.
Charcuterie
- Traiteur Maillet
In the
town of Gradignan, close to Bordeaux.
Photograph courtesy of Charcuterie-Traiteur-maillet.
For a brown-bag lunch in the park or a well-thought-out
picnic these unique delis can supply everything. They are also the "go-to" destination
for those staying in an Airbnb.
Sausages
galore
Photograph courtesy of Frédéric BISSON
www.flickr.com/photos/zigazou76/6250763520/
In upscale areas, you will be absolutely
staggered by some of the window displays. You will realize that the kitchens
are staffed by exceptionally well-trained chefs, but equally, the staff in
charge of food presentation are undoubtedly among the best in the world.
A
charcuterie-traiteur’s shop window,
just before St Valentine’s Day,
Le jour de la Saint-Valentin
Traiteur Asiatique – An Asian delicatessen. The popularity of Asian cuisine in France has created a strong demand for charcuterie-traiteurs specializing in Chinese and Vietnamese dishes. To keep up with the changing tastes of their clientele, many of these establishments have added sushi and other regional specialties to their menus. When seeking an Asian take-away dinner, a traiteur asiatique typically offers a wider choice of cuisines than a standard restaurant.
MasterChef
Entertaining:
Order
Everything from a Charcuterie-Traiteur
From
Starters to Spirits
In a charcuterie-traiteur,
the selection of cured and prepared meats is a wonderland of choice and flavor.
To dine at home in style, the French entrées (appetizers/starters) range
from foie gras to
rustic pâtés de campagne, vegetable terrines, and
pâtés en croûte baked
within a golden pastry crust. You will find a choice of six or seven cured hams
(jambons
secs), chosen from the dozens produced across France’s
eighteen regions; the Jambon de Bayonne from
the Pays
Basque remains the national favorite. If you wish,
there will be Escargots (snails), Cuisses de Grenouilles (frogs'
legs), or Huîtres (oysters) from small to very large. For a simpler meal
choose among France’s many sausages,
from Andouillettes,
to Boudin Noir.
The plats principaux
(main dishes) may include hearty stews such as the time-honored Pot-au-Feu, a
Bouillabaisse Marseillaise,
or a Baeckeoffe
(the Alsatian peasant stew that found fame on the national stage). If you
prefer something else, choose anything from a Poulet Rôti
à la Broche (rotisserie chicken) to a Côte de
Bœuf
(rib roast). If you prefer fish, choose from individual portions of Truite aux
Amandes (trout with almonds) or, for a dinner with ten or more
guests, a whole poached salmon. For dessert, expect classics such as Crème Brûlée, Tarte Tatin, Baba au Rhum, or
Crêpes Suzette.
To complement these,
you’ll be offered cheeses ranging from Camembert de Normandie and
Brie de Meaux to
an aged Comté, a
French Gruyère,
a tangy goat’s cheese, and blue cheeses from a mild Bresse Bleu to
a sharp Roquefort. Additionally
, they will supply everything needed for a classic Fondue Savoyarde, a
three-cheese fondue.
Their wines may not compete with a dedicated wine shop, though the largest charcuterie-traiteurs come close. Choose among Bordeaux’s many appellations, a Chablis, a Champagne, or spirits including Kirsch, Cognac, Calvados or aged Armagnac. And if you’re missing anything, they’ll supply the olives, cornichons, and other pickles, along with the glasses, plates, serving dishes, and cutlery you need.
Your
picnic lunch.
Photograph
courtesy of Carrefour Traiteur
--------------------------------
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translations and explanations.
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Trout in French Cuisine.
The mouth-watering offering of
meat and cheese are amazing.
--------------------------------
Behind
the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
bryangnewman@gmail.com
Copyright
2010, 2013, 2016, 2019. 2025
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