Behind the French Menu: Dusky Grouper

from

Behind the French Menu

Bryan G. Newman
Updated January 2022.

The Dusky Grouper
Photograph courtesy of Mal B.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mal-b/9686800207/

The groupers on French mainland menus will nearly always be one of three members of the family. The White Grouper, the Dusky Grouper or the Mottled Grouper.

In the South of France the dusky grouper, which is found all over the Mediterranean, is the most likely family member to be on the menu. Their names are rarely on the menu as, when cooked, their size, taste and texture are very similar with a firm, mild, white flesh. Grouper will be on the menu as a filet, a steak, grilled or fried, or baked and served with a sauce.

Mérou Bronze, Mérou Blanc or Thiof – The white grouper on France's mainland menus come from the Southern Mediterranean. This grouper is the smallest of the three and rarely seen over 10 kilos (22 lbs).

It may be more expensive than a restaurant;
however, in France, you may hire a boat and catch your own.

Kylie & Rob (and Helen)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hell28k/5590952769/

Mérou Noir - The dusky grouper; sometimes called the dusky sea perch. This is the most common grouper in the Mediterranean. This grouper is found all over the Mediterranean and can be over 25 kilos (55 lbs).

Mérou Royal, Badèche Rouge – The Mottled Grouper or Comb Grouper; prepared in a similar manner to the white and dusky grouper. This grouper may be caught off France's Atlantic coast and can weigh over 25 kilos (55 lbs).

The Mottled Grouper.

Biodiversity Heritage Library

https://www.flickr.com/photos/biodivlibrary/20741271528/

Grouper on French Menus:

Bourride de Lotte et de Mérou – Provenance’s famous garlicky monkfish soup/stew made with plenty of aioli, the garlicky mayonnaise that is so popular along the whole of France's Mediterranean coast. Here, to the traditional monkfish, called Lotte in French and Baudroie in Provencal, has been added grouper.

Grouper

with black truffle spaetzel.

Photograph courtesy of c.windus

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27699493@N07/3228550071/ FF

Carpaccio de Mérou Avec Crevettes, Sauce aux Fruits de la Passion et Mouse de Pommes De Terre – A grouper Carpaccio served with shrimp, a sauce made from passion fruits and a potato mousse.

Croustillant de Filet de Mérou en Chemise d' Algue Japonaise – A crispy filet of grouper cooked inside Japanese seaweed. Since France grows lots of seaweed for export to Japan, and with increasing demand for its home market, the seaweed chosen could be one of many. The seaweed most often used with sushi is called nori in Japanese and it is grown in France under its French name porphyre. Also, the French grow Fougère de Mer, that is the Japanese Wakamé seaweed and they also the Varech, Kelp in English, all are exported and sold locally. Now is the time to check your waiter’s knowledge and find out which seaweed is being used with this dish. Do not ignore seaweed, like other vegetables there are many tastes and textures, and in this dish, they will make a very interesting change.

Escalope de Mérou au Citron – A cutlet, meaning a filet, of grouper served flavored with lemon.

Grouper.

Squash, basil, sweet onions, cherry tomatoes, and dill-lemon beurre blanc

Photograph courtesy of Ralph Daily

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ralphandjenny/7623700860/

Filet de Mérou Braisé au Gingembre – A braised filet of grouper flavored with ginger.

Filet de Mérou au Fenouil et Oignons Rouges Marinés, Riz. A Filet of grouper prepared with fennel, marinated red onions and served with rice.

Filet de Mérou Mariné et Cuit Au Four, Pomme de Terre Braisée Avec de la Sauce Crémeuse aux Coquillages - A filet of marinated grouper baked in the oven and served with braised potatoes and a creamy sauce made from shrimps and other crustaceans.

Dusky Grouper

Photograph courtesy of Philippe Guillaume

https://www.flickr.com/photos/philippeguillaume/3933249101/ FF

Filet de Mérou Poêllé à la Concassée de Tomate aux Courgettes et Poivrons Rouges. – Lightly fried filet of grouper prepared with courgettes, zucchini in the USA, and sweet red peppers.

Tartare de Mérou et Espadon Fumé – A Tartar prepared with grouper and smoked swordfish.

None of these grouper will be anything like the giant grouper seen on National Geographic. The giant grouper from the Indian Ocean and Australia’s Great Barrier Reef Grouper has been landed at over 400 kgs (880 lbs), but the groupers on your menu will rarely be over 25 kilos (55 lbs).

The White Grouper in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - anfós blanc), (Dutch - witte zaagbaars), (German – zackenbarsch), (Italian - cernia bronzina, cernia bianca), (Spanish – cherna, cerna de ley), (Latin - epinephelus aeneus).

Grouper

Delicious!

Photograph courtesy of stu_spivack

https://www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/2493271454/

The Dusky Grouper in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - anfós, conegut, amfòs, rei, gerna), (Dutch - bruine tandbaars), (German - riesen-zackenbarsch), (Italian – cernia, cernia bruna), (Spanish – mero, mero moreno), (Latin - epinephelus marginetus).

The Mottled Grouper in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - anfós jueu, mero rosat), (Dutch - koninklijke zaagbaars), (Germany - gefleckter zackenbarsch, roter zackenbarsch ), (Italy - cernia rossa), (Spanish – cuna negra), (Latin - mycteroperca rubra).

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Bryan G. Newman

Behind the French Menu

For information on the unpublished book behind this blog contact Bryan Newman

behinthefrenchmenu@gmail.com