Showing posts with label Gorgonzola. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gorgonzola. Show all posts

Bleu de Bresse – The Most Popular Blue Cheese in France. Bleu de Bresse in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com 

Bleu de Bresse
  
Bleu de Bresse is the most popular blue cheese in France with a large following of cheese lovers around the world.  It fits right in when a mild blue cheese is needed for a cheese plate, and it also makes excellent blue cheese salad dressings and sauces.

Bleu de Bresse is 15% fat, creamy, spreadable, mild-tasting, blue-veined/patched cow’s milk cheese made from pasteurized milk with a natural edible rind and a mild aroma of mushrooms; it is aged for three weeks. The cheese was first made in the village of Servas in the department Ain in the region of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. 

This where you buy Bleu de Bresse.
www.flickr.com/photos/kentgoldman/3335977501/
 
For several reasons, Bleu de Bresse is looked down upon by some, though not by me.   Some blue cheese gourmands consider Bleu de Bresse a new cheese, others look down on it because it is mass-produced, and finally others consider it to have Italian influences in its creation. Now Bleu de Bresse may be new, but you would have to be close to 80 to consider 70 plus young.  Then, many of France’s other cheeses are mass-produced, including pasteurized milk Camemberts and Bries, and while they are not given free passes, they cause less controversy. Following on, Italian input is seen in many parts of French cuisine,  just as many French contributions are seen in Italian Cuisine.

Gorgonzola on sale
  
Bleu de Bresse was created during WWII when Italian cheeses could not be imported. Then this blue, cow's milk cheese was made in the style of the Italian Gorgonzola cheese by an Italian influenced French cheese maker; then it was given the name Saingorlon. Following on that in 1951, Saingorlon morphed into its present life as Bleu de Bresse and the dairies that make it have never looked back. 

Saingorlon is a good ten letter word in French Scrabble.
 
Much of the disapproval above is food snobbery, but the vast majority of French citizens ignore that, and to prove it Bleu de Bresse is the best-selling mass-produced blue cheese in France. Outside France, the Bleu de Bresse also has a very successful footprint, but even there, some food writers have called Bleu de Bresse a beginners’ blue cheese. What a lot of nonsense. Not every cheese has to compete with France’s fantastic, but super strong sheep’s milk Roquefort AOP or the magnificent but mild cow’s milk cheeses like the Fourme d’Ambert AOP and the Fourme de Montbrisson AOP.  I may choose Bleu de Bresse for a cheese platter just as often as I might choose another among the tens of France’s blue cheeses (when I can find five or six together to make a reasoned choice); variety is important. In the UK and North America, Bleu de Bresse, like in France, is sold in packages and wedges that weigh anywhere from 125 grams (4.40 oz) to 500 grams (1.10 lbs).

Bleu de Bresse on French menus:
    
Carré de Porc Braisé au Bleu de Bresse, Poíres Confites – A rack of braised pork prepared with a Bleu de Bresse sauce and served with a thick pear confit (jam).
  
Pièce de Bœuf Grillée, Sauce Crème au Bleu de Bresse – A grilled rump steak served with a  creamy Bleu de Bresse sauce. Now a Pièce de Bœuf may seem to translate as a Piece of Beef which doesn’t inspire, but there are four unique French cuts that may be called a Pièce de Bœuf. When Pièce de Bœuf is on the menu in France that indicates the best cuts from the rump, cuts that are usually too much work and preparation for the UK and North American butchers.



Salade Bressane aux Emincés de Poulet Fumé au Bleu de Bresse et aux Cerneaux de Noix – The Bresse salad, which includes chicken liver, is here served with thin slices of smoked chicken and walnuts and accompanied by a Bleu de Bresse sauce. 

Truite "Mont du Jura" Désarêtée à la Crème de Bleu de Bresse – A boned “Jura Mountain” trout served with cream of  Bleu de Bresse sauce. The Jura mountains are in the Alpes between France and Switzerland and with fabulous skiing in the winter and lakes, including the Lac Morond, Lake Morond, in the summer famous for great fishing at 1400 meters (4600 feet). (Caveat Emptor: In all probability, this is a Rainbow Trout from a fish farm). Désarêté or Désarêtée on this menu listing means de-boned but it may also be used for fish that have been both filleted and skinned).     


    
With all the criticism, the producers tried to upgrade the Bleu de Bresse cheese with a name change in the 1960s; then, they renamed it Fourme de Bresse. At that time, the two top of the line French mild blue cow's milk cheese-makers; with Fourme in their names, the Fourme de Montbrisson and Fourme d’Ambert got together, went to court, and put a stop to that; since then they have received an AOP apiece to add to their names. But, Bleu de Bresse sails on with its old name, no AOP, and a crowd of admirers who would buy it under any name. 

Where it all began.

The village of Servas, where Bleu de Bresse was first produced is next to the River Veyle set in the heartland of the old province of Bresse. It is just 5 km (3 miles) from the village of Bresse and 11 km ( 6.2 miles) from to town of Bourg en Bresse (where it is made today) in the department of Ain. The old Province of Bresse is mostly within the department of Ain in the new administrative region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, and the department of Saône-et-Loire in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté with some parts reaching the French Jura. From these departments come many significant contributions to French cuisine apart from Bleu de Bresse;  especially notable are: 

The Crème de Bresse AOP, cow’s milk cream.
The Mâconnais AOP goat’s cheese.
The Volaille de Bresse AOP, France’s top of the line chickens, capons, poulardes, and turkeys.

The list above will be a small part of what may be on the table when you travel in the old province of Bresse.

A couple of things to note when visiting Bresse.

French departments have numbers given to them during the French revolution that created them, and Ain at the beginning of the alphabet is department number 01.

The locals are called Bressans, and among them, there are still those who know who know a few words in the old language of Bressan, which developed from Occitan. Occitan was the French language that lost out in the completion to be the official language of France. 
  
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman 
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2019, 2023.

  
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