Figues - Figs. Figs on French Menus. The Best Figs in France are the Figues de Sollies,

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  

Figues de Sollies

Photograph courtesy of Emi Yañez 

Figs in France

    

Figue/s – Figs; the fruit. Figs reached France through those first seafaring wholesalers, the Phoenicians and now grow all around the Mediterranean. Figs are another of the fruits that first grew in the Middle East or Asia and spread with traders who followed or established trade routes.   The first findings of domesticated plantings of the fig come from a 10,000-year-old Neolithic village discovered in The Jordan Valley, north of Jericho in the Middle East.  That timing even pre-dates the domestication of wheat.

 

      The Greeks and Romans loved figs and when the Romans occupied France in 121 BCE there were not enough fig trees for their needs, so they brought more. The Greeks had previously brought new vines, and then the Romans brought figs, peaches, cherries, apricot trees and more. The Romans were the first to use figs to fatten pigs and geese and create the fatty animal livers they loved, and so it was the Romans who taught the French how to prepare foie gras, fattened duck's liver. Then again, there are many who still ask “what did the Romans ever do for us”?  Well. the Romans also taught the French to set up and run snail farms and even created a system for imitation rain to make the snails grow faster

 

Figs on French Menus:

Carpaccio de Veau au Fromage de Chèvre et aux Figues-  A veal Carpaccio served with goats' cheese with figs.

 

Le Trio de Fromages Corses et sa Confiture de Figues – A trip of three kinds of Corsican cheese served with a fig jam.

  

Figs du Sollies

Photograph courtesy of Mon Œil

Magret de Canard aux Figues – Duck breast prepared with figs

Pageot aux Figues Fraîches à la Sarriette - Sea bream prepared with fresh figs flavored with summer savory.

Pavé d'Espadon aux Figues Fraiche accompagné d'une Purée – A thick cut of swordfish prepared with fresh figs and served with potato puree.

    

Wild figs, also tasty.

Photograph courtesy of Shumpei Sano

     

Sorbet Citron Avec Alcool De Figues – A lemon sorbet with fig alcohol.

  

Suprême de Pintade aux Figues et Pruneaux Marinés au Porto. Breast of Guinea Fowl with figs and prunes marinated in port.

  

Tarte aux Figues Tiède et Boule De Glace Vanille – A warm fig tart served with a ball of vanilla ice-cream.

 

The very best of France’s figs:

The very best figs in France come from in and around the village of Solliès – Le - Pont in the department of Var in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur. The Figues de Sollies AOP are also called the Figues Violettes de Sollies. These particular violet colored fresh figs are practically hand reared and hold an AOP  for their unique quality. They are sold fresh from the 1st of September through the 30th of October. The small town itself should also be awarded an AOP for its beauty.

  

  

A superb fig tart.

Photograph courtesy of marlenedd

     The French Government Tourist Information Office that includes 5 communities around Sollies and has a French language website. Google and Bing translate apps present the sites in English.

http://www.tourisme.fr/1228/office-de-tourisme-sollies-pont.htm

      When you visit the village of Solliès-Le-Pont, you may well assume that the village may have been part of the Garden of Eden. Water channels run everywhere, taking water throughout the village to all the trees and gardens, which are filled with many different fruits. Close by are the villages of Sollies-Toucas and Sollies-Ville.  Sollies means the sun in the Provencal dialect. The village of Solliès-Pont is just 45 km (28 miles) from St Tropez.

                                  

The Feast of Figs

    

Summer fruits

Emiliano De Laurentiis

   

     The last Friday, Saturday and Sunday in August are the dates for the Fête de la Figue de Solliès-le-Pont, the Feast of the Figs in Sollies. The fete’s organizers have a French language website.  Using the Google or Bing translate apps all will become clear:

  

http://www.fetedelafigue.fr/

 

      The fete begins on the Friday night when meals with figs as their centerpiece are prepared in the village square.  Saturday and Sunday include hikes, visits to fig orchards and market stalls selling a wide variety of artisanal products; these and many more events are followed by fig parades with decorated carts, Provencal dances and more.  Of no less importance is the election of a baby as the year’s “baby fig” and fig cooking competitions.

     

Fig and spice jam

Photograph courtesy of Iakov Vokhmintsev

      Around the village of Sollies are other communities whose residents make a great deal of their income from growing these same unique figs. So do not be surprised if there are many places in the area you pass offering figs.

       If you are looking for the world production of figs the very best are the Sollies who produce less than 20,000 tons a year. However, around the world over 1,000,000  tons of figs are produced annually.  The world’s largest producer, Turkey, alone accounts for over one-quarter of the world’s needs.

Connected Posts:

 

Carpaccio on French Menus.

Espadon; Swordfish. Espadon on French Menus.

Foie Gras in French Cuisine. Foie Gras is Fattened Goose or Duck Liver Foie. Foie Gras on French Menus

Pintade, the Guinea Fowl, may be on Your French Menu; it Makes a Pleasant Change From Chicken.

  

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2016

 

Céleri - Celery. The Joys of Celery in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com  

  
Celery. 
Photograph courtesy of wikioticslan
https://www.flickr.com/photos/51004712@N08/5112057844/

Céleri

Celery the vegetable.

 

Celery in France is in recipes for the aroma and taste that it brings to many soups and stews; used lightly it enhances and does not overpower the other ingredients. Individual members of the celery family are also served raw as part of salads and vegetable juices. However, celery seeds on their own have a strong taste, and they will be used as a spice.  Celery salt is made from celery seeds and salt makes an excellent condiment.   For all these reasons, I have included celery within the appendix on herbs and spices in the book behind this blog.  
 
In the UK and the USA, most people still see only the traditional branch celery in our local supermarket; farmers' markets are the best place to find the other members of the celery family. In France and the rest of Europe, you will be made aware of the other members of the celery family in the markets and supermarkets.

  

Céleri or Céleri Branche

Branch celery.

   

Branch celery, or blanching celery, is the celery that most of us recognize on sight by its long green stems. Branch celery’s exact origins are much disputed, but we know that it has been grown in the Mediterranean region for at least 3,000 years.       

  

Even Guinea Fowl enjoy celery

Photograph courtesy of Guinea Fowl Flock.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/7846004@N05/4295002726/

  

Branch celery will be served raw in salads, and in Europe the stalks may be cooked and used in soups or served with other vegetables. Branch celery, cooked or uncooked, is also often partnered with fish.  The celery leaves may be used for their flavor or like parsley prepared as a garnish as well as for decoration. In North America and the UK, the roots of branch celery are usually cut off before they arrive at a supermarket. However, branch celery in France will be sold to restaurants with their roots intact. The roots will be used to flavor soups and other dishes.    

  

Branch celery on sale

Photograph courtesy of Fortunato Calabro.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/130632526@N06/52380856936/

 

Branch celery on French menus:

Filet de Sole Farci aux Crevettes, Fumet au Vin Blanc, Céleri Branche et Pomme de Terre au Citron - A filet of sole stuffed with shrimp, prepared in a fish stock flavored with white wine. The dish is garnished with branch celery and lemon-flavored potatoes.

  

La Salade de Quinoa au Crabe, Herbes et Céleri Branche. - A salad of quinoa, crab, herbs and branch celery. Quinoa is a New World import from South America that is neither a cereal nor a grass and contains no gluten. In fact, while I eat quinoa I am not quite sure what quinoa is.   Any ideas?   The crab offered in this menu listing is France’s most popular crab. You will know that by its name…." the crab".  This crab's real French name is the crabe torteau, the edible brown crab in English.

  

La Niçoise - Salade, Poivron, Concombre, Haricots Verts, Céleri Branche, Tomate, Oeuf, Thon, Anchois, Olive, Radis. – A Salad Nicoise that includes: sweet peppers, cucumber, French green beans, branch celery, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, tuna, anchovies, olives, and radishes.

This menu listing clearly describes the chef’s ingredients for a Salad Niçoise, and all chefs from Provence have their own recipe for Salad Niçoise. The debates on the correct ingredients have continued for more than 100 years.

Henri Heyraud was a famous Provençal chef, teacher and historian of the the cuisine served in France in the early 20th C.  His recipe included both anchovy filets and tuna. Escoffier’s recipe included anchovies only;  tuna was not included.  However, neither of those famous chefs used branch celery or cucumbers. For more about the history of Salade Niçoise click here,

 

Branch celery in the languages of France’s neighbors:

  

(Catalan – api), (Dutch – selderij), (German – sellerie),  (Italian – sedano), (Spanish – apio, celerí, apio traditional), (Latin - Apium graveolens var. dulce),

  

Livèche, Céleri Bâtard, Ache des Montagnes 

Lovage or False Celery.

 

Livèche, Céleri Bâtard, Ache des Montagnes and  Céleri de Montagne - Lovage or False Celery is a plant with a strong celery aroma and taste but no true relationship to the celery family. Despite that, it is appreciated in the kitchen for its strong celery taste and aroma. Lovage may also be on the menu by name when its flavor and scent is perfect for a particular dish, and young lovage leaves may also be added, albeit sparingly, to a salad. 

Stewed rabbit with lovage.
Photograph courtesy of Chris Pople
https://www.flickr.com/photos/130632526@N06/52380856936/

Lovage on French menus:

  

Fraises en Morceaux à l'Ache "céleri de montagne" – Sliced strawberries flavored with lovage.

   

Le Fera de Neuchâtel en Mignon à la Livèche et Cèpes de Pays – The broad whitefish caught in Lake Neuchatel in Switzerland. The menu description here of “mignon” indicates an attractive serving, and the menu listing shows that the fish is flavored with lovage and wild porcini. cepe, mushrooms. 

Saumon Label Rouge Mi-cuit, Mi Fumé par Nos Soins Coulis de Livèche, Jeune Betterave.  – Red label Atlantic salmon  lightly cooked and smoked in-house. The salmon is served with a coulis, a puree, of fresh lovage and young beetroots.

Lovage

Photograph courtesy of alh1.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/allan_harris/34828171805/

Lovage in the languages of France’s neighbors:

 

 (Catalan - api bord, api de muntanya), (Dutch  - lavas). (German – liebstöckel), (Italian – levistico), (Spanish – levístico), (Latin - levisticum officinale).

Céleri-rave – Celeriac

 

Céleri-rave – Celeriac. If, like me, you are not a great fan of branch celery, I really do advise you to try celeriac despite that caveat. Celeriac is an odd-looking root vegetable, but do not let its looks put you off. On the outside, without its leaves, celeriac looks somewhat like a rough, brown beetroot. However, Celeriac has a taste, texture and aroma that is entirely different from branch celery.   Celeriac has a light celery taste, and its texture is completely different. The French usually prepare celeriac as a slightly rough puree that you may mistake for hand-mashed potatoes until you taste it or smell it. After my first unintended introduction,  I have been hooked. Celeriac mashed on its own or mixed with mashed potatoes and with added butter, milk or cheese, are all flavorsome dishes.

Celeriac is grown only for its root and mild celery taste; the leaves may be used for decoration, but they add very little taste. Celeriac is not just tasty; it is also good for you as it has only 6% starch, compared with a potato that has 15%. 

 

Celeriac on French menus: 

  

Saumon Grillé et sa Purée de Celeri-Rave . - Grilled salmon served with a puree of celeriac. 

Céleri-Rave Rémoulade – Celeriac mashed, and served with sauce rémoulade. A sauce remoulade is a mayonnaise and mustard sauce egg. This dish is very popular.

 

La Soupe de Céleri Rave et Roquette. - A celeriac soup lightly spiced with the addition of rocket, the herb.

Celeriac
Photograph courtesy of Leimenide
https://www.flickr.com/photos/24350382@N07/50982120178/

Celeriac in the language of France’s neighbors:

 

(Catalan - api rave), (Dutch - knolselderij), (German – knollenselleri, , knollen-sellerie), (Italian - sedano rapa), ( Spanish -  apio nabo, celeriac), (Latin - apium graveolens var. rapaceum).

Céleri Sauvage, Ache des Marais 

Marsh Parsley or Smallage.

 

Céleri Sauvage, Céleri à Couper, Persil des Marais or Ache des Marais – marsh parsley, smallage, slender celery, fir-leaved celery.  This European celery family member originally grew only in the wild.  It is the great-grandfather or great-grandmother of both branch celery and celeriac. As may be expected, wild celery is now also domesticated by market gardeners; the taste and aroma of domesticated wild celery are now going into recipes for soups and salads all over Europe.

The original wild celery plant is very leafy. The raw leaves of the plant may be used in salads, and the stalks, when used, must be well cooked and cut, as they can be stringy.  The real wild plant has a stronger taste and smell than the cultivated “wild” variety.  For that reason, wild celery provides an important side income in the season for gatherers of wild mushrooms and herbs who make a living selling to restaurants.  Both the wild and the cultivated wild celery are biennials; that means there is only one crop every two years, and that makes wild celery more expensive. There are two plants called wild celery in North America.  The American wild celery grows underwater and is unlikely to be seen in your local supermarket. However, the wild celery that originated in Europe is, of course, grown in and on the menu in North America.

Wild celery on French Menus:

   

Pâté d'Oie, Émulsion aux Racines de Céleri Sauvage, Pain de Campagne. Duck liver pate prepared with a thick sauce made from the roots of wild celery and served with country bread. For more on pain de campagne, country bread, and other French breads click here.

     

Escabèche de Queues d'Écrevisses, Vinaigrette de Céleri Sauvage.– Marinated crayfish tails served with wild celery flavored with a vinaigrette sauce. Escabèche is a dish of Peruvian origin and is always served cold. Escabèche is well established in France and will be on many seafood restaurant menus.  France has always had its own excellent dishes with marinated fish, and the Peruvian additions of seafood, smoked fish and shellfish with a different flavor have expanded the offerings. Unless otherwise indicated the marinade will be wine vinegar with herbs.

     

The seeds, the fruits from wild celery, are considered tastier than the seeds from branch celery or celeriac and so wild celery seeds are preferred for making celery salt.  French chefs are well aware of the different tastes of wild and cultivated wild celery and what they can add to soup or a sauce;  the demand for the wild plant is growing.  French market gardeners are the source of the cultivated wild plants.

  

Wild celery in the languages of France's neighbors:

 

(Catalan – api boscà), (Dutch -wilde selderij), ( German – echte sellerie,  vild sellerie), (Italian - sedano selvatico, sedano commune), (Spanish - apio silvestre). (Latin - apium graveolens var. graveolens).

   

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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2012, 2015, 2024.

Turnips, (Navets) Parsnips (Panais) and Swedes (Chou-Navets or Rutabaga). Traditional Root Vegetables in Modern French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Turnips

Photograph courtesy of Michele Dorsey Walfred

www.flickr.com/photos/dorseymw/47832678951/

     

Navets – Turnips.

The turnip was always popular in France; it was never just another root vegetable to add to a stew.  Turnips are often the garnish of choice when served mashed with butter or served together with carrots. (After I tried turnips mashed with butter for the first time, I changed my mind about turnips completely). I now agree with the French; a turnip is a serious vegetable.  Mashed turnips are rarely on menus at home, so look out for them in France.

   

Turnips in the languages of France’s neighbors:
  

(Catalan – nap, nabius), (Dutch – raap, rapen), German - speiserübe), (Italian -rapa), (Spanish - naba).

      

Turnips on French Menus:

 Filet de Pintade du Gers Rôti, Purée de Navets - Breast of roasted Guinea fowl from Gers, served with turnip puree.  Gers is a department in the region of Occitanie and famous for its Label Rouge, Red label, IGP. Free-range poultry. The Guinea fowl from Gers are considered among the best in France.

  

Navarin Printanier de Homard au Romarin, 

Navettes, Jus de Crustacés,

A Springtime Navarin made with lobster flavored with rosemary, and served with turnips and the natural cooking juices of other crustaceans.

Photograph courtesy of nienfanhsun.

www.flickr.com/photos/nienfanhsun/8451996933/

      

Navarin de St Jacques et Langoustines Petits Légumes Sauce au Noilly Prat - A Navarin with the meat from the King Scallop and Dublin Bay prawns accompanied by young vegetables. The vegetables will include turnips and a sauce made with France’s first, and still most popular, vermouth Noilly Prat.

A Navarin is a ragoût, a stew, traditionally made with lamb, fish or shellfish and the navet, the turnip. Ragouts, and in this case a Navarin, require slow cooking in stock, with or without wine. Besides turnips in a Navarin, other vegetables are usually carrots, parsnips, or Swedes (rutabagas) and potatoes. When made with young turnips and other early vegetables, the same stew will become a Navarin Printanier, a springtime Navarin. The name Navarin is probably linked to a dish that originated in the country of Navarre. Navarre is now divided into the Province of Navarre in Spain and the Pays Basque, the French Basque Country, in southwestern France. More about the name Navarin towards the end of this post.

   

Noix de St Jacques au Sésame, Boulette de Bussy – The meat of the King scallop cooked with sesame and served the Boulette de Bussy turnip. The Boulette de Busy is light green colored turnip considered sweeter than others.  

     

Velouté au Navets de Pardailhan - This veloute, a velvety soup, is made with the heirloom black turnips of Pardailhan. Pardailhan, the village that gave their name to this turnip is inside the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut Languedoc, The Natural Regional Park of Haute Languedoc. The village is 35 km (22 miles) from the Mediterranean.

   

The Black Turnip of Pardailhan.

Photograph courtesy of saveurlanguedoc.com

N.B.: Navettes de Provence are not to be confused with navets, turnips.  The Navettes de Provence are sweet biscuits usually flavored with lemon or orange zest. The biscuits took their name from the shape of a navette, an oval with pointed ends; however, do not be surprised if today’s Navettes de Provence have other shapes.

  

Panais - The Parsnip.

 

Raw parsnips look like rough, ivory-colored, large carrots. Despite the similarities, parsnips are not carrots, though they are from the same family.  Parsnips are slightly sweet and, when properly cooked, have a firm and pleasant texture. The parsnip ’s texture is one of the reasons French chefs have always appreciated them and the reason that they are added them to many dishes. Parsnips are one of the few vegetables whose origins are wholly European and grow well in cool climates. Parsnips were already starring on menus, over 2,000 years ago, at Roman banquets.

Parsnips in the languages of France’s neighbors.

(Catalan – xirivia), (Dutch – pastinaak), (German – pastinak), (Italian - pastinaca), (Spanish - chirivía, pastinaca).

Parsnips on French Menus:

Velouté de Panais -   A parsnip veloute, a velvety soup.

 

Turbot Sauvage Poché en Blanquette à la Vanille, Purée de Panais-  Turbot, caught in the wild and served poached in a blanquette flavored with vanilla and served with a parsnip puree.   A blanquette is a traditional stew and its recipes generally include mushrooms and a cream sauce along with white wine.

   

Parsnip soup

Photograph courtesy of stu_spivack

www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/329676418/

Filet de Biche, Navet Acidulé, Panais et Griottes Purée de Panais -  A fillet steak from the female red deer, served with pickled turnips, parsnips,  sour cherries and pureed parsnips. An adult male red deer is a cerf, an adult female deer is a biche.  The English word bitch comes from the French biche.
 

The menu listing above gives the diner no indication that the red deer is wild game. In France, many animals usually associated with the wild game are farm-raised. Unless otherwise indicated the pheasant, wild boar, red and roe deer on your menu will have been farm-raised.

     

Navets - Parsnips.

Photograph courtesy of Mike Licht

www.flickr.com/photos/notionscapital/10894629725/

Rutabaga or Chou-Navets or – Swedes or Rutabaga.

The Swede or Rutabaga is a vegetable that often looks, to me and many others, a lot like a parsnip; however, they are not related.  I am no expert on plant genetics and when I see Swedes, in a market next to parsnips all I can say is that they look very similar if generally a little larger.  When both are in a stew I am also not sure where they significantly differ.  So Swedes, in France and elsewhere, are often used instead of parsnips and are often listed on French menus as panais, parsnips.  To confuse us even more, one of the French names for Swedes is Chou-Navets and that relates to the French word Chou, cabbage. The Swede, it turns out, is a member of the cabbage family. The other name rutabaga used in both French and English comes originally from the original Swedish.

   

 Swedes, Rutabagas in the languages of France's neighbors:

 

(Catalan – nap de Suècia), (Dutch – koolraapm kohlrabi, rutabaga),(German - schmalzrübe, steckrübe, unterkohlrabi,  kohlrüben), (Italian - cavolo rapa, cavolo da foraggio), (Spanish - colinabo, col nabo, nabo sueco).

    

A rutabaga, a Swede.

Photograph courtesy of Tricia

www.flickr.com/photos/elvissa/368430515/

  

Swedes, Rutabagas, on French Menus:

     

Raviole de Paleron de Boeuf, Rutabagas, Bouillon de Lard des Pyrénées – Ravioli made with beef shoulder and rutabagas served with a broth made from bacon from the Pyrenees.

Filet de Cannette des Dombes Servie Rosé, Cubes de Rutabaga Rôtis au Miel, Jus à la Genièvre -  Breast of duckling from the Dombes served rosé, pink, with cubes of rutabaga roasted in honey; served with a juniper berry sauce. 

   Duck in France is traditionally served pink, rosé; unlike a steak, you will rarely be asked how you would like your duck cooked. If you prefer duck cooked differently, tell your waiter when ordering. 

  

 The Dombes is a plateau outside the city of Lyon with a long history of combined usage for agriculture and freshwater fish farms. The Dombes covers more than 30,000 acres and is a center for ducks and other waterfowl. The duck on this menu listing is a female, a cannette; a male duck is a canard. When the type of duck from the Dombes is not mentioned then, it will usually be the Canard Colvert, the wild mallard duck. The mallard is the most common wild duck in Europe. In France, as elsewhere, ducks may be hunted in season with a license.

  

Another claim for the origin of the name Navarin:

Some chefs link the Navarin's name to the Greek War for Independence. Then the combined French, British, and Russian navies fought the Turkish and Egyptian navies in the Battle of Navarino in the Eastern Mediterranean in 1821. The Turkish defeat in that battle was the turning point in the Greek search for independence. In 1832, Greece won its independence after nearly 400 years of Turkish rule. I have looked, without success, for recipes, or menus for Navrin published close to the time of the Battle of Navarino. That search follows the French tradition of naming new dishes after significant events or great people. However, the appearance of Navarins on French menus does not link to the right dates. Escoffier has recipes for Navarins, but that is close to 100 years after the battle of Navarino. I side with those who link the Navarin to a dish that originated in or was credited to the country of Navarre.

--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2014. 2018, 2020

  

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Shrimps and Prawns among the Crustaceans on Your French Menu.

 

Soup on the French Menu. A Soup by Any Other Name, but France has So Many Names for Soup.

  

The King Scallop and the Queen Scallop. On French Menus the Saint-Jacque, the Coquilles Saint-Jacques, and the Vanneaux  or Pétoncle.
 

Turbot - Turbot. Turbot, the fish on French Menus.

 

Vanille – Vanilla. The story of Vanilla and Vanilla in French Cuisine.

Velouté Soupe and Sauce Velouté - A Veloute Soup and a Veloute Sauce. - A Velouté is One of France's "Mother" Sauces and one of the Many Styles of Soups and Sauces on French Menus.

 

Volailles Fermières Label Rouge – France’s Label Rouge Poultry and the Volaille de Bresse AOP, The Tastiest Poultry in France.