Mélisse -Lemon Balm. Lemon Balm on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   
Lemon Balm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/andrea_44/5744694087/

The other names of Mélisse and Lemon Balm

The other French names for lemon balm include Baume Mélisse and Citronella; in English, the herb’s other names include Citronella, Balsam and Balm Melissa. 

Lemon balm in the French kitchen
 
Lemon balm is used for salads, marinades, mayonnaise, herb vinegar, fish dishes and fruit salads.   Lemon Balm is also an ingredient of Benedictine, Chartreuse, and other French liquors.  In Asia, lemon grass is a favorite flavoring for soups and sauces.

The problem with calling Mélisse or Lemon Balm Citronella.

Be careful with Mélisse or Lemon Balm being called citronella in either French or English, Citronella oil that keeps away mosquitoes comes from citronella grass whose roots and leaves make  citronella oil.  Do not confuse the plants as that may result in painful or itchy consequences. Behind the misuse of the name are both plant’s lemony smell. The French word for lemon is citron, hence citronella; that created the confusion.

Lemon balm despite its name belongs to the mint family. The green leaves look like large mint leaves and have a mild lemon aroma with an even lighter hint of mint.   The Lemon Balm’s close cousin is the Bergamot mint, in French that is La Menthe Bergamote and it is used to flavor summer drinks and it is also used in some candies, sweets.        

La Menthe Bergamote will be on some menus:

Glace à la Menthe Bergamote – Ice cream flavored with the Bergamot mint.

Lemon Balm on French Menus:

Blanc de Turbot Poudré à la Noisette, Crémeux Du Barry, Cressonnière à la Mélisse – A farm raised turbot filet powdered with grated hazelnut and served with a creamy cabbage sauce and a watercress flavoring itself flavored with lemon balm. (The sauce used in this menu listing “Crémeux Dubarry” is named after Madame Du Barry (Comtesse Du Barry) who was the last Mistress of Louis XVI, the King of France guillotined during the French revolution). Madam Dubarry was always considered to have huge ears or possibly attachments to her wig which made her ears look larger and so many dishes that included cabbage were jokingly named after her.  Madame Du Barry was guillotined during the Revolution’s Terror on 8 December 1793.
   

Watermelon, lemon juice, and lemon balm.
 
Crème d'Oseille à la Mélisse  - A creamy sorrel (also called garden sorrel) soup flavored with lemon balm.
 
Escalope de Foie Gras et Gambas Snackées, Tartare de Mangue à la Mélisse - A round or oval cut of fattened duck liver prepared with jumbo shrimps cut into mouth sized bites and served with a Mango Tartar flavored with lemon balm.
   
Tea with a blend of 5 different herbs:
rosemary, lemongrass, lemon balm, spearmint, pineapple mint
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cityfoodsters/16723546768/

L'Omble Chevalier du Lac au Jus de Mélisse – Freshwater charr, the fish, from the lake prepared with the juice of lemon balm. This menu listing comes from a hotel restaurant in the village of Volkrange in the department of Moselle in the region of Lorraine. Lorraine became part of the super region of the Grand Est on 1-1-2015 when France reduced the number of mainland regions from 22 to 13. The decision to scale down the number of regions that govern France internally was to cut red tape and reduce the bureaucracy that citizens encounter and save money.   To see how the super region of Grande Est, the Great East, was made up of the regions of Alsace, Champagne-Ardenne, and Lorraine click on the link: France’s Mainland Regions and Their Borders Have Changed.
   

Rabbit, pork and lemon balm terrine.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/manidisroberts/5972383493/

Salade de Calamars à la Citronnelle (Pimentée) – A salad of calamari (squid) flavored with lemon balm and lightly spiced.

Ravioles de Tourteaux à la Mélisse – Ravioli made with the white meat of the brown crab flavored with lemon balm.

Sorbet Fraise Mélisse – A strawberry sorbet flavored with lemon balm.

Lemon balm with its light lemon taste with a touch of a mint accent is a combination that makes it a very popular infusion, a tisane, a herbal tea. French homeopathic doctors recommend Lemon Balm for stomach disorders and nervous attacks. In France, the essential oils of the lemon balm’s cousin the bergamot mint are also considered necessary for aromatherapy.
  
When planting herbs remember that rabbits like lemon balm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/janet_calcaterra/9027596219/

I use, with permission, Gernot Katzer’s Spice Pages to check on foreign language names for herbs and spices and where possible to make sure that the etymology of the names I am given in French restaurants and food markets is correct.

Below are Gernot Katzer's notes on the etymology of the word balm:
  
“Balm is a short­ened form of balsam, deriving from the Latin balsamum balsam tree, which was also used for the resin obtained there for (Balm of Mecca). The ultimate source of the word is Old Hebrew boshem (modern bossem) [בשם], which denotes the balsam tree (Commi­phora opo­balsamum syn. Amyris opo­balsamum, Burser­aceae/Rutales) and its resin, but also means fragrance or spice in general. It also appears as busma [ܒܤܡܐ] in the Aramaic New Testament.”
  
Even before chefs in mainland France were using lemon grass the French Caribbean departments were growing it in their tropical climates; from the Caribbean its popularity spread to Central America under the name citronella where confusion reigns between the two plants called citronella.


Mélisse, lemon balm in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan -  tarongina, arangí or melissakj). (Dutch - bijenkruid, citroenkruid, citroenmelisse), (German – zitronenmelisse), (Italian – melissa, cedronella, citronella, erba limona), (Spanish - melisa, citronela). 

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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Copyright 2010, 2017.
 

Beaujolais - Beaujolais wines. Beaujolais Wines on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

  
 
   
Beaujolais Nouveau
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sangre-la/2721052266/
 
Beaujolais -The wines.
   
Beaujolais, among the well known wines from Burgundy. We know the light, dry, red wines that are Beaujolais-Villages AOC and or the Beaujolais Nouveau; however, there are ten other well-known Beaujolais AOC wines from the area including, Brouilly, Fleurie, and Morgon among others. If you are in the area, try the different Beaujolais wines, and for a local digestif try their local Marc de Beaujolais. The names of the best Beaujolais wines are at the end of this link.

Beaujolais Nouveau
 
One of the most famous wines in all of Burgundy, even though it is far from the best of the region’s wines is Beaujolais Nouveau. Beaujolais Nouveau is bottled immediately after fermentation and drunk without any aging.  By strict French definition this wine should be called a primeur; however, most people, including myself, would be hard pressed to remember the difference between a Beaujolais Primeur and a Beaujolais Nouveau.  French regulations or not it is Nouveau Beaujolais to nearly everyone.
    
Beaujolais
Photograph courtesy of Hajime NAKANO
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jetalone/302631811 FF

Beaujolais Nouveau is a marketing manager's success story.  Thirty or forty years ago Beaujolais Nouveau was a local new wine and nothing else.  Outside of the immediate area, no one had heard of it, but now special dinners will be held on the third Thursday in November at midnight from New York to Tokyo when the new Beaujolais Nouveau is introduced.  The noise that surrounded a new Beaujolais Nouveau has quietened in the last few years; nevertheless, the extraordinary success of this simple light wine is now a part of wine history.
    
Beaujolais wines on French menus:

Le Pied de Cochon Rôti, Sauce Beaujolais, Spaetzlés Maison – Roast pig’s trotter served with a Beaujolais sauce and the restaurant’s distinctive take on Spaetzlés.  Spaetzlés are small dumplings from the Alsace; they look something like overweight bumpy noodles and will be served as a garnish instead of potatoes or rice.  Despite their shape, they are made, like most other dumplings, with flour, eggs, and water or milk; some may be flavored with herbs or mushrooms.

Steak Charolais, Lard, Oignons Confits, St Marcellin, Sauce Beaujolais A Charolais steak prepared with bacon,  confit, slowly cooked onions, the soft cow’s milk St Marcellin cheese and served with a Sauce Beaujolais.

Millefeuille de Carpe Sauce Beaujolais-Villages – Carp, the fish, thinly cut as millefeuilles inter-leafed with vegetables and served with a Beaujolais-Village sauce.
  
    The label from a bottle of Beaujolais Village.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/marywitzig/2374710374 FF
 
Sandre de la Dombes Sauce Beaujolais Blanc  -  Zander in the USA and Pike Perch in the UK caught or farmed in the wetlands of the Dombes (near Lyon) and served with a white Beaujolais sauce

Pièce de Bœuf Grillée Sauce BeaujolaisA unique cut from the rump and considered the butcher’s choice served with a Sauce Beaujolais.

When choosing a Beaujolais wine there are the best, the Crus, and then the good, the Beujolais Villages AOC.

The 10 Cru Beaujolais:

The Cru Beaujolais are considered the best of all the Beaujolais wines; nevertheless, you need an up-to-date wine book or a good friend who is an expert.  The variations that include the vintage and the vintner means that just picking a name and a year will not necessarily buy you a good wine. If you see a famous wine over five years old discounted in a supermarket leave it for others. 

Caveat Emptor: A cheap wine from a great vintage and great vintner with a great taste would have been snapped up by the French connoisseurs on the day the wine went on sale. In France, there are few bargains in AOC graded wines.

These are the ten crus.
 
Brouilly; Chénas; Chiroubles; Côte de Brouilly; Fleurie; Juliénas; Moulin-à-Vent; Morgon;  Régnié; Saint-Amour.

The Beaujolais Village wines:

The Beaujolais Village wines can be excellent, but here, more even than the crus, you need that up-to-date- wine book or friend who is a wine expert. In a restaurant a good sommelier may also help with the choice if he or she is given a budget.

Les Ardillats; Beaujeu; Blacé; Cercié; Chânes;  La Chapelle-de-Guinchay; Charenta ; Denicé; Emeringes;  Jullié;  Lancié; Lantignié; Leynes; Marchampt; Montmelas-Saint-Sorlin; Odenas; Le Perréon; Pruzilly; Romanèche-Thorins; Quincié-en-Beaujolais; Régnié-Durette; Rivolet; St-Amour-Bellevue;
St-Didier-sur-Beaujeu; St-Etienne-des-Oullières; St-Etienne-la-Varenne; St-Symphorien-d’Ancelles; St-Vérand; St-Julien; St-Leger; Salles-Arbuissonnas-en-Beaujolais; Vaux-en-Beaujolais; Vauxrenard; Villié-Morgon.



More about the Beaujolais Nouveau.

It is said that during a great meal with excellent service and good company the second bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau achieves greatness. There are also stories of those who have found great truths in a third bottle;.however, they were probably drunk at the time. In the same area, there are many fine wines, and as you can see from the wines noted above you do not even have to drink Beaujolais Nouveau unless you want to.
   
Beaujolais wine aging in barrels.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/karaian/3798493743/

Beaujolais produces more wine than the Burgundy wine regions of Chablis, Côte d'Or and Mâconnais put together. This possible as the  region of Beaujolais was already cultivated by the Romans who planted the areas along its trading route up the Saône valley.  The Roman vineyard Brulliacus is located on the hillside of Mont Brouilly and the Romans also planted vineyards in other areas that are now Beaujolais. From the 7th century through the Middle Ages, most of the viticulture and wine-making was done by the Benedictine monks

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Copyright 2010,2017.

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