Showing posts sorted by relevance for query daube. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query daube. Sort by date Show all posts

Daube – A Traditional Provencal Stew. Now on Menus all Over France.

                                                                     

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   
Daube de boeuf
   
Originally daubes were only made with beef, lamb or goat with the meat marinated overnight in herbs, garlic, vegetables, pork rinds, tomatoes and red wine.  Then, the next day, with the addition of more red wine a daube would be slowly braised until ready. Now daubs come with a far wider range of ingredients and recipes that include fish, shellfish and white wine.

Successful local recipes in France, including many from Provence, have often become popular throughout France and daubes are no exception. Today’s daubes or similar stews under that name are an excellent example. Most daubes on French menus are still beef stews, but you will now be offered daubes made with wild boar and others that  are based on goose, duck,  tuna, or seafood.  In Provence, most restaurants will still have traditional daubes on their menu in winter, though each restaurant will claim that theirs is unique. From my experience, those that I have tasted and enjoyed, have all been close to the original version.  All have been splendid but remain fundamentally similar.  Despite that caveat, the disputes over the slight differences among chefs and the cognoscenti are never ending.

Daube on French menus:
 
Daube à l'Ancienne –  Daube in the traditional manner; beef marinated and then stewed with red wine and tomato base. The vegetables include onions and carrots. Dishes offered à l'Ancienne, mean prepared in the traditional manner also offers the diner a chance to ask the waiter what "a l'ancienne" means to the chef. Do ask, I have been surprised by the variety of answers.


Daube de boeuf. (With parsnip puree, button mushrooms, and lardons).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tpholland/4122574973/  FF

Daube à la Niçoise - A daube in the manner of the City of Nice on the Cote d”Azur. On menus in Nice written in Niçard (Nissart), the local dialect, mostly a dialect of Provencal and Italian, the menu may offer La Doba Nissarda -The Stew Nicoise.  Apart from using a local red wine the Nissarde version often includes a local Marc, Armagnac or Cognac. Nice is famous for many other dishes including Salade Nicoise and Ratatouille.
    

Daube de boeuf
https://www.flickr.com/photos/adactio/1350135957/    FF
   
Daube aux Cuisses de Canards – Daube with duck’s leg.  This red wine based daube is a local favorite in Lot et Garonne.

Daube de Mouton A mutton stew; the mutton will be marinated, with most of the fat removed, and then cooked slowly with wine and vegetables as with a beef daube.


Daube d'Agneau
Lamb Daube with Pappardelle
 
Daube Gasconne aux Pruneaux – Beef Daube in the manner of Gasconne, Gascony; made with added prunes. The old principality of Gascony has an agricultural base firmly anchored in plums for the prune industry.  The center of the French prune industry is the town of Agen.  


Daube de Colombe
Pigeon daube.

Daube de Sanglier avec Raviolis Maison – A daub of wild boar served with home made ravioli.  This, almost certainly, will be farmed wild boar;  real wild boar would be sanglier sauvage or would be part of a "hunting season" menu, a Menu de Chasse.
  
Daube de Thon à la Sétoise – A tuna daube made in the manner of the famous fishing port of Séte on the Mediterranean.
 
Daube de Poulpe à l'Encre de Seiche -  A daube of octopuses flavored with cuttlefish ink.

Daubières,


Daubière.
Photograph courtesy of Office de Tourisme Intercommunal du
Pays d'Aubagne et de l'Etoile
Atelier Barbotine, Aubagne dabiere
Aubagne is in the department of Bouches-du-Rhône
 in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur.
               
Daubes were initially made in metal or earthenware pots called daubières. These are covered pots that were made in a wide variety of shapes, and designed for long cooking as the less expensive cuts were generally used for long-cooked stews. The traditional daubière would be a terracotta or metal pot. The lids were made to allow the water which became steam to condenses on the inside and return to the stew, which allowed for the long cooking time required. Today,  large casserole containers may do; nevertheless, for serving in the better restaurants an antique or specially created daubière may be used to present the dish and the traditional inexpensive cuts may be replaced by better and more flavorful choices.
  

18th Century Daubiere.



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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016.

Congre - Conger Eels. The Conger Eel in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com


A conger eel looking out of its cave.
Photograph courtesy of La Cote Bleu
Photograph by C.Coudre

Congre or Anguille de Mer
The Conger eel or the European Conger Eel.

The conger eel is the biggest and the heaviest member of the eel family. They have a firm, tasty flesh, and apart from their important place in French fish soups and stews, they will be served on their own as filets or as fried or grilled steaks. The conger eel is a sea animal, treated like a fish, and from the same family as the European freshwater eel which is also much appreciated in French cuisine. The European conger eel is caught in the Mediterranean, where it is an important ingredient in the Marseilles Bouillabaisse, and in the Atlantic where it is essential for an authentic Basque Ttoro fish stew. Apart from France, you will find conger eel on many Japanese and South American menus.


Conger eels on sale at an open-air market.
The Conger eels are at the back.
To the right are Dover sole and to the front are Plaice.
Photograph courtesy of Graeme Churchard
www.flickr.com/photos/graeme/43308883494/

You may have seen a National Geographic Magazine or a National Geographic Channel clip with conger eels over 2.5m (8 feet) long. However, that most French fishers usually catch smaller sizes, but they are not so small either. Most French-caught conger eels will be around 0.8 meters (2.5 feet). The conger eel prefers living in caves, and then they are caught by a rod and line offering them a tasty morsel. Only rarely do conger eels end up in fishing nets.

 


Another conger eel waiting for lunch to pass its cave,
Photograph courtesy of gordon.milligan
www.flickr.com/photos/el-milligano/11715500795/

Conger eels on French Menus:


Congre au Beurre - Conger eel steaks lightly fried in butter. 

 

Bouillabaisse.

Photograph courtesy of Cyclone Bill.

www.flickr.com/photos/cyclonebill/2855022887/

 

Congre Grillée  à l'Ail et au Persil – A grilled conger eel steak flavored with garlic and parsley.

              

Daube de Congre – A conger eel stew. A conger eel version of a Provençal dish that began as a beef daube, itself traditionally made with red wine. Following that daube tradition, the meaty flesh of the conger eel will be cooked in red wine. The recipe for this daube will often include shrimp, mussels, and some small fish added for flavor and decoration,

   

 

Congre à la bretonne

Conger eel in the manner of Brittany.

Photograph of courtesy of Cuisine AZ

       

Matelote de Congre au Vin Rouge  A matelote fish stew made with the conger eel and red wine. All matelotes are fish stews, some will be made with freshwater fish, and others like this menu listing are made with sea fish. Here the conger eel is the star. (See Bouillabaisse and Ttoro).

 

Matelote De Congre Au Vin Rouge

Photograph courtesy of Pavillon France

 

Soupe d´Araignée de Mer et de Congre Légèrement Piquant – A mildy spicey soup made with the European spider crab and the conger eel.  The spider crab is considered the tastiest of France’s local crabs.

The Conger eel in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan – congre), (Dutch - zeepaling), (German – conger meerale or  meeraale), (Italian - grongo),  (Spanish – congre, conger safio, congrio), (Latin -  conger conger).

With thanks to Froese, R. and D. Pauly. Editors. 2015. FishBase. World Wide Web electronic publication. www.fishbase.org, version (04/2015) for help with the names on conger eels in a number of languages.
 
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by
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behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2015, 2021
 
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Connected Posts:
 
Anguille, Anguille d'Europe - Freshwater Eels in French Cuisine.
      
Basque Cuisine. The Basque Cuisine of the Pays Basque. Ordering Basque Dishes.
   
Bouillabaisse and Bouillabaisse from Marseilles on your Menu as Bouillabaisse Marseillaise. Bouillabaisse on French Menus. Links to Recipes for Bouillabaisse.
   
Beurre - Butter. Butter in French Cuisine.
 
Carrelet, Plie or Plie d'Europe – Plaice, the fish. Plaice on French Menus.
 
Crabes - Crabs. Crabs Among the Crustaceans on Your French Menu. Crustaceans II.  
 
Daube – A Traditional Provencal Stew. Now on Menus all Over France.
    
Garlic – Ail. Garlic in French Cuisine. Herbs and Spices in the French Kitchen.
   
Mussels in France.Ordering Mussels is More than just Moules Frites in France. How to Order Moules Frites.
 
Persil - Parsley. Parsley in French Cuisine.
  
Shrimps and Prawns Among the Many Tasty Crustaceans on Your French Menu.
 
Sole Française - Dover Sole in French Cuisine
     

Dining in Nice on 'La Côte d'Azur'. The Cuisine of Nice, Cuisine Niçoise.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
 
www.flickr.com/photos/diekatrin/4520629896/ 

Nice and the Comté de Nice, the area around the city, was part of Italy until 1860, and quite a bit of Italian influence remains. To that add Nice's unique mixture of cultures, languages, and cuisines; that include traditional Provençal specialties and, Nice's own Niçoise Cuisine, its Cuisine Nissarde and language.  N.B. Even if your French is excellent, you will not understand the locals' private conversations as they will often be speaking Nice’s Provençal dialect called Nissarde or Nicoise Provencal.

You will find excellent restaurants in Nice serving the very best of French cuisine, but if you want to taste the traditional cuisine of Nice, look for restaurants serving Cuisine Nissarde.
               
The restaurants that show this "Cuisine Nissarde" symbol offer at least three authentic Niçoise/Nissarde dishes. 
  
Nissarde specialties:
         
Ravioli à la Niçoise – Raviolis stuffed with chopped meat from a daube de bœuf. A daube is traditional Provencal beef stew prepared with red wine.  The daube stuffing in the ravioli will, in season, include Swiss chard. The sauce for this ravioli dish was traditionally the gravy from the daube, but, today, some changes may be offered, and they will be available with grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese.
                                  
Spaghettis à la Niçoise  -  Spaghetti in the manner of Nice. This spaghetti dish has a sauce made with tomatoes, Nice’s AOC black olives, sweet red peppers, anchoviesgarlic, herbs, and, of course, flavored just before serving with Nice's own AOC olive oil the Huile d'Olive de Nice AOC.
  
Spaghettis à la Niçoise
Filet de Dorade à la Niçoise  -  A filet of gilthead sea bream baked, in the oven with tomatoes, the Niçoise AOC olive, green peppers, and onions.
  
Salade Niçoise -  When in Nice you are never allowed to forget that this is the home of Salade Niçoise, probably France’s most famous salad. With few exceptions, most chefs from Nice agree that the recipe will include canned tuna or anchovies, but not both.  To the tuna or anchovies will be added tomatoes, the black Niçoise AOC olives, fava beans, cooked baby artichokes, sweet peppers, herbs, especially basil, and a vinaigrette dressing with the oil from Nice’s own AOC /AOP olive oil the, Huile d'Olive de Nice and red wine vinegar.
       
Ratatouille – The classic recipe is eggplants, (aubergines in the UK), zucchinis, (courgettes in the UK), onions, tomatoes, sweet peppers, garlic, herbs, and olive oil.  To those ingredients, chefs may add, mushrooms, lardons which are fried or lardons, smoked bacon bits, and occasionally eggs.  Some of the vegetables will vary with the seasons, and quite a number of chefs present their Ratatouille with Gruyère cheese browned on top or grated and placed on the side for the diner to add to his or her taste.
    
Ratatouille, the ingredients.
Photograph courtesy of Tom Dixon.
www.flickr.com/photos/twd3lr/7841981338/
                    
Pissaladiere Nicoise - Caramelized onions, olives, garlic, and anchovies served on a bread dough. The Pissaladiere is now often served as an entrée (the French first course)  in restaurants while traditionally it was a street food.
  
Pissaladiere Nicoise
   
Socca or Socca Niçoise -  A hot and crispy chickpea pancake made with farine de pois chiche, chickpea flour. It is the quintessential street food of Nice, baked over hot coals on steel platters and best eaten when still hot.     In Nice socca pancakes are more than a local recipe, they are a tradition, and socca pancakes began as a street-side specialty; they are intended to be eaten as they come out of the oven. Niçoise traditionalists accompany their early morning socca, that many locals still buy on the way to work, with a small glass of wine. The Nice socca pancakes are made with chick-pea flour, water, olive oil and salt along with every socca cook’s secret herbs.

   
Socca
    
Farcis Nicoise -  Stuffed vegetables in the manner or Nice. Tomatoes, eggplant,(UK aubergine)  and zucchini, (UK courgette), onions,  and, in season, the fleur de courgette, the zucchini flower which is a staple of Cuisine Nissarde.   The vegetables are stuffed with ground meat, ham, mushrooms, bread crumbs, and flavored with and herbs. They are baked and may be served hot or cold.
   
Panisses or Panisses Frit  –  Originally a Nice fast food that would be bought hot and eaten on the go. Now panisses have gone mainstream and will be on restaurant menus.  Panisses are made with farine de pois chiche, chickpea flour, in a variety of shapes and deep fried. They were traditionally served on their own with salt, but now today an optional addition of grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese may be added.  In a restaurant, a Panisse may be used as a garnish or served with a salad.
   
Pan Bagnat - A Nicoise sandwich made from a split round roll soaked in olive oil, and filled with sweet peppers, black Nice olives,  onions, anchovies, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, and flavored with garlic and basil.  (Pan bagnat is Italian in origin).
   
Pan Bagnat
Photograph courtesy of Gunnar Grimnes
www.flickr.com/photos/gromgull/3544039328/
  
There are many excellent restaurants along the Nice promenade and many more inside the town.  If you have the time and a car, then there are many more restaurants in the hills behind the town; however, from experience, to avoid shocks, always check the prices in Nice restaurants before sitting down. With so many good restaurants and the Mediterranean Sea to entice you it is not surprising that, after Paris, Nice is the second most visited city, by tourists, in France.
  
Nice and the 'La Côte d'Azur'.

Nice, more than any other city or town along the Mediterranean made the South of France famous. It was here that the French Poet Stephen Liégeard (1830  - 1925) gave the whole Mediterranean coast the name to his book 'La Côte d'Azur' in 1887. In the 1860's the first English tourists arrived, and they fell in love with Nice's cuisine and weather and, unknowingly, founded the local tourism industry.  
     
Part of the Promenade des Anglais.
Photograph courtesy of Richard Whitaker
www.flickr.com/photos/richardwhitaker/18794583782/
    
The English tourists would walk up and down the seafront, and that parade where they could see and be seen that street would become the Promenade des Anglais, the English Promenade. Then from three words, 'La Côte d'Azur,' the whole of the Mediterranean coast got a considerable boost. From that magical name, "the blue coast," the poet Stephen Liégeard created a whole new industry that welcomed the millions of tourists who came to see. Stephen Liégeard got a street or rather an avenue, in Nice, named after him for that.
   
A view of the Beach from the Promenade des Anglais.
Photograph courtesy of Dhinal Chheda
www.flickr.com/photos/dhinalchheda/4748603689/
      
The Carnaval de Nice
                 
The Carnaval de Nice made its first public show in 1876 and has grown in extravagance ever since.  The celebrations are repeated nearly every day over a two-week period, mostly in February; the central attraction of the Carnaval de Nice, is the Bataille de Fleurs, the battle of the flowers. You may reserve a seat to watch by ordering online. 
  
The English language website of the Carnaval de Nice is:


There is much to keep you occupied outside of the restaurants and beaches along with celebrations on all French National Holidays. Nice has many museums, and below I have noted just two, there are many more. However, this post is part of Behind the French Menu and with too much time spent in museums, the food will get cold.
  
For more information look at the Nice Tourist Information Office English language website:

   
Inside the Matisse Museum.
www.flickr.com/photos/moonlightbulb/8260305598/  
   
 
Inside the Musée Marc Chagall
www.flickr.com/photos/historicalcouple/23612710998/
      
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2013, 2016. 2019.


Behind the French Menu’s links include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 400 articles that include over 3,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations. Add the word, words or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" and search with Google or Bing.
       
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