Bisques and Seafood Bisques on French Menus


from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
A crab bisque.
www.flickr.com/photos/gpeters/3110265844/

Bisques began as rich fish soups, changing with the years to pureed shellfish soups that may include white wine, fresh cream, or crème fraîche; however, if the fish's texture is right, a fish bisque may still be on the menu. Shellfish bisques can be distinguished by their texture and then vegetable bisques and bisque sauces with the right textures were added to many menus.

A few of the bisques that may be on your menu:

Bisque de Crevettes – A shrimp bisque.

Bisque d'Écrevisses – A crayfish bisque.  

Bisque de Homard - A lobster bisque.

Bisque de Tomate de Vigne Grillée – A tomato bisque made with grilled vine tomatoes, only partly pureed so that a bisque texture remains. 

Shrimp bisque
www.flickr.com/photos/21348045@N06/3784580564/
   
Bisque de Rascasse et sa Rouille - A bisque made with the scorpionfish (sea robin) fish: served with a spicy rouille sauce on the side. You add the rouille to your taste. The rascasse is one of France’s tastiest and firm-fleshed fish caught in the Meditteranean and also an essential part of a real Bouillabaisse Unlike a real scorpion fish, it has no stinger in its tail, rather it has poisonous spines; fishermen and women pick them out of the net wearing gloves. 
   

Red Scorpion fish.
   
Bisque de Tomate de Vigne Grillée – Grilled vine tomatoes partly very roughly pureed, flavored with herbs and made into a bisque with added white wine and crème fraiche.
    
Chefs know they need to create interest for new dishes, especially dishes that use ingredients prepared differently,  Here are grilled vine tomatoes presented in a manner rarely seen in bisques.  The chef has inferred a connection to the texture of a seafood bisque and that will have French diners thinking,  wondering and then, probably try it.
    
A Tomato bisque.
www.flickr.com/photos/dongkwan/921915567/
  
At this point, I should emphasize how educated French diners are.  They begin learning to appreciate food at an early age. In State-run schools, there is a three-course meal every day, accompanied only by water. The meal must take a minimum of thirty minutes and the children know what they are eating.
  
www.flickr.com/photos/joyosity/9686979521/
  
Bisque d'étrilles - A bisque made with the crabe étrille also called the crabe batailler.
This is a small but tasty crab, the velvet swimming crab. While they are one of those tastiest crabs they are considered too small to be served on their own as they are rarely more than 7 cms (3") across and 50% of that is the shell. Nevertheless, unnamed on most menus,  the velvet swimming crab is used to add flavor to crab soups and or fish soups. In this menu listing these tasty, small, crabs are honored by being offered in a soup where they play the leading role.   (The most popular crab in France is the larger edible crabe tourteau, the edible brown crab).




The crabe etrille – the velvet swimming crab.
Photograph courtesy of cd100
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2014, 2018

For information on the unpublished book behind this blog contact Bryan Newman
at
behindtheFrenchmenu@gmail.com


Châtaignes and Marrons - Chestnuts. Chestnuts in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


The Châtaigne with its multiple chestnuts.
Its very, very close cousin has a single fruit.
Photograph courtesy of Otto Phokus.
/www.flickr.com/photos/jbmac/3978185109/

Châtaignes and Marrons, the sweet chestnuts of France.
 
These two sweet chestnuts taste, to most of us very similar and in a blind tasting of, I failed to tell any difference. Since they are so similar in taste and both are excellent, it is not surprising that French recipes use these two members of the chestnut family interchangeably.
      
Altogether some 25% of France is covered with chestnut forests from the north to the south.  Chestnuts were, for hundreds of years, the primary food of the French peasantry; it kept them alive through the winters as chestnut flour stored well. Chestnuts were also used to make beer, and the stored chestnut peelings were the food of the farm animals in winter and summer.
  
Rating the chestnuts in France.
   
Two French chestnuts are considered genuinely superior; though the others are excellent. The first is the Châtaigne d'Ardèche AOP, from the forests in the department of Ardeche in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, the second is the Châtaigne Périgord Label Rouge, IGP which while bearing the name Perigord come from the forests in ten different departments in France's southwest.  What makes the difference from chestnuts grown elsewhere apart the place of origin is the way they are grown and stored when fresh. With the AOP or IGP label on the bag you know they are grown with care for the environment and the consumer. These two chestnuts may be France's best but when there is an excellent chef in the kitchen you may not know if he or she is using an also-ran from a forest nearby.

   
Single fruit chestnuts
www.flickr.com/photos/egnaro/2946201087/
   
Chestnuts on French menus:
  
If you begin your acquaintance with French chestnuts at the beginning of the season, then freshly roasted chestnuts will be sold on street corners;  elegantly served in brown paper bags so you may eat them as you stroll along. However, if you prefer chestnuts prepared by a chef there will be many opportunities for enjoying them as you travel around France.
   
Lentil and chestnut soup
Photograph courtesy of Jessica Spengler

Chestnuts on French menus:
             
Ballotine de Dinde Rôtie aux Marrons – Roasted, boned, turkey served with chestnuts.
             
Crème Brûlée aux Marrons, Caramélisée au Sucre Vergeoise - Crème Brûlée with chestnuts; caramelized with the brown sugar made from French sugar beets.
           
Venison, chestnut puree, served with Sauce Grand Veneur
Sauce Grand Veneur translates as the sauce of a great hunter. This is a traditional sauce that was created to serve with wild game.  The recipe has changed over time and now is usually made with red wine vinegar, butter, fresh berries, and crème fraîche.
  
 Filet de Grondin Rouge en Beignet à la Farine de Châtaigne – A filet of red gunard, the fish,  dipped in chestnut flour and then deep fried.
              
Gâteau à la Farine de Châtaigne Corse AOP – A cake made with the famed chestnut flour, the Corsican Farine de Châtaigne Corse AOP.  Chestnut flour is used in many other crepes, and cakes.
    
Marron Glacé – Candied Chestnuts are one of France's most famous sweets, candies, and are often part of a dessert. France has hundreds of years of experience in removing the water from fruits and replacing it with sugar, formerly honey.  I shall have to write a post on Fruits Confit or Fruits Glacés, candied or crystallized fruits.

Marrón Glacé – Candied Chestnuts.
  
Ravioles de Cèpes et Châtaignes au Parfum de TruffesFrench Porcini mushroom and chestnut ravioli  scented with truffles. 
                
Mont Blanc dessert
Photograph by courtesy ofsaksan
www.flickr.com/photos/sakfli/4671612804/
    
In the old region of Languedoc-Roussillon, now part of the super region of Occitanie in-season local restaurants will be offering their famous Figarette, a chestnut and porcini mushroom soup. In the old région of Limousin, now part of the super region of Nouvelle Aquitaine all year round you will be offered their Liqueur de Châtaignes,   a 40% alcohol chestnut liquor. 
     
Liqueur de  Châtaigne

When the conquistadors brought corn, maize, from the New World chestnut flower became less of a staple, but the magnificent forests remain as home to a wide variety of wild game from wild boar to deer
  
           The different types of chestnuts.
   
The châtaigne is correctly called the Spanish Chestnut or  Sweet Chestnut and from each fruit, there will anywhere from one to five nuts, usually three.  The marron is the American chestnut;  it usually has a single larger nut in each fruit, sometimes two.  The people who brought most of the châtaignes, the Spanish chestnut trees, to France were the usual suspects, the Romans.

Not all the châtaignes are chestnuts.
    
Châtaigne d'Eau, Macre or Macre Commune  - The water chestnut.
          
Châtaigne de Mer or Oursin - The sea urchin. This odd spiny little sea creature, so beloved of the French.  The sea urchin will need a separate post, save to say only its inside is eaten. The spines are left untouched.


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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2011,2012, 2015, 2019.
  
  
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