Gingembre – Ginger, the Spice. Ginger is very important in French Cuisine, and Gingerbread is Very Popular.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   

A large sized ginger root.
I think someone super-sized this one
https://www.flickr.com/photos/notafish/177639720/
   
Gingembre  – Ginger, the spice.  I, like many of my contemporaries,  had always thought that ginger was the root of the plant. Then, I learned that the ginger we see in a market is a rhizome and a rhizome, my best beloved, is the subterranean stem of a plant that sends out the roots and not the root itself.. The French word for a rhizome is rhizome, the same as in English, and according to Dictionary.com, the origin is Latin. So the French make the same mistake we do as and call the rhizome a root, a racine de gingembre.   Therefore, in a French market, or an English one, few would know what I am talking about if I asked for a ginger rhizome, so I shall continue to call the rhizome  a root in this post.
   
Ginger in French recipes
  
The ginger root holds 90% of the plants ginger flavor and when cut the root releases a pungent aroma and the flavor is tasty but sharp and spicy. Cooked the aroma and the sharpness and spiciness drops considerably and that is the ginger taste that most of us like.   The ginger plant’s leaves have a light ginger kick and a lighter flavor, but it is only used in those countries where ginger is grown. Many people buy ground ginger; it will have lost some of the pungency of the fresh root and that is perfectly OK for sauces, soups, ice creams and pastries. French chefs who want the kick and flavor that comes from the fresh root will buy it whole and then grind and dry their own powdered ginger as required for their pastries etc.
  

Ginger leaves.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/haydn/233011241/
    
Tens of  French recipes use ginger and pain d'épices, gingerbread, is as elsewhere,  a food decoration staple. The gingerbread of Dijon, France, is as famous in France as its mustard is internationally. 
     

Gingerbread house.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/56705607@N00/5299258324/
      
Ginger is also part of the French spice group called the Quatre Épices or Épice Parisienne, the four spices group. This is the oldest French spice group still in use. The group always includes poivre, pepper, noix de muscade, nutmeg, and clous de girofle, cloves. The disputed fourth was originally gingembre, ginger or Cannelle, Chinese cinnamon. Today, Chinese cinnamon is usually replaced by cannelle de Ceylon, Ceylonese cinnamon, with Ginger remaining as a fifth member of the group.  Fresh ginger will be in many French meat, seafood and fish dishes that require extended cooking times, as that reduces the spice’s pungency. The less pungent dried, ground ginger will be in soups, sauces, cakes, biscuits, ice-creams and more.


Ginger on French menus:

Calamar Grillé Dans une Sauce Tomate Fraîche Relevée au Gingembre et PimentCalamari grilled and served with a fresh tomato sauce with ginger and hot pepper accents.
   

Trout with ginger, peppers, and spring onions.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/secretlyironic/91560789/
                                                                    
Crème Brûlée au Pain d'Épices – Crème brulée prepared with gingerbread. Gingerbread in French is pain d'épice; that translates as spicy bread.
   

Ginger Jam from the UK
https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelpollak/8186217658/

Dos de Sandre Rôti sur Peau, Jus Court au Gingembre et au Citron Vert – A large cut from pike-perch, zander, the fish, roasted in its skin and served with a court bouillon flavored with ginger and limes

Filet Mignon de Cochon Rôti au Beurre Mousseux et Gingembre Frais au Miel de Pays – A cut from the pork filet, the pork tenderloin, roasted and served with a lightly whipped melted butter prepared with fresh ginger and local honey. N.B. A filet mignon in France is always pork unless the menu explicitly notes veal or beef. The American Filet Mignon is a French Filet de Boeuf.

Purée Chaude de Poire avec Chocolat au Gingembre – Hot pear puree served with chocolate and ginger.

Tartare de Thon Frais au Mangues et GingembreFresh tuna tartar flavored with mango and ginger.



Beef fillet served with carrot-ginger puree.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gommit/4968132/
   
Growing up in the UK I loved ginger beer which is alcohol-free; unfortunately, ginger beer is no longer so popular, and so when I visit the UK I really have to look for it. I have seen imported ginger beer in France, but its not my favorite brand.  For those who want to buy Ginger beer in France ask for a bière de gingembre; I believe the brand I saw was a Jamaican import.  Historically, some alcoholic beers did use ginger.  I am also fairly sure that the Belgians must make at least one of their hundreds of different alcoholic beers with ginger, even if I haven’t seen one.

Ginger ale from the USA  is another non-alcoholic soft drink made with ginger.  The Ginger Ale I saw in a large French supermarket was imported Canada Dry.

Ginger originated in Southern China, and it is now part of the spice cupboard in nearly every country in the world. Nevertheless ginger does not grow everywhere;  ginger needs a warm climate and so it is grown in Asia and South America, with 50% of the world’s supply of ginger coming from India

When I travel, I receive huge amounts of information on herbs and spices in the markets I visit.  Early on, I learned to double-check my information on Gernot Katzer’s Spice Pages and or Eric Schoenzetter’s  Toil'd'épice. Both gave me permission to use and quote their websites.  Not every French chef or purveyor of spices can differentiate between some of the old-wives tails and the real history and origins of the herbs and spices they work with.

    
 
Ginger Cake
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jessicafm/2056756572/
              
Ginger in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - gingebre, gengibre), (Dutch - gember, djahe),(German – ingwer), (Italian -  zenzero, pepe zenzero),  (Spanish – jengibre, ingever).

     
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


Copyright 2010, 2016.
  

Agneau Charolais du Bourbonnais, Label Rouge. Charolais lamb on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   
The Charolais sheep and young.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/22175387@N06/2137764565/
    
The Charolais Bourbon Lamb were awarded the Label Rouge, the red label grading given to some of France’s finest and highest quality foods.  Charolais Bourbon Lambs have a consistently high quality meat, and the manner in which they are raised is a condition of the award. The lambs are raised by their mother until they are weaned and then allowed to graze freely.  They may reach your table at anywhere from three to seven months of age, The taste of the Charolais lamb comes from the long, natural weaning  along  with the natural grazing; the lamb is tender and very much deserves its red label. Most Label Rouge   products and produce now go through annual tests. The taste and smell levels are now checked annually by a panel of highly trained tasters; the results are called, wait for it, an “organoleptic panel” rating. I think those test should be instituted, at least once every ten years, for the AOC wines that have not been tested in over 100 years!
  
Charolais lambs may be on the menu under a variety of names: Agneau du Charolais, Agneau Charolais du Bourbonnais, or Agneau Charolais Fermier du Bourbonnais, Label Rouge, and  or Agneau  Bourbonnais.
  
From the same areas comes the Charolais AOC/AOP goat’s cheese and the Bœuf Charolais AOC  also called the Bœuf Charolais du Bourbonnais AOP.  The Charolais cattle are one of Frances most famous breeds. (For more about the AOC and AOP labels click here).
    

The Charolais cattle.
In winter the cattle are brought into barns. Otherwise, they would vanish in the snow!

       
The Charolais lamb on French menus:
   
Canon d'Agneau Charolais En Croûte de Sel et Son Jus Corsé – A Canon of lamb roasted in a shell of salt and served with its natural cooking juices..
The en croute shell of salt will be removed before serving, it does not leave a salty taste. Then the Canon will be sliced and served with the natural cooking juices.

A canon of lamb is a traditional French cut, originally created for veal, and then adapted for lamb.  The canon begins with a cut from the loin, the upper leg, with the bone removed. The cut is usually stuffed and almost always roasted. The name Canon comes from the shape of this cut; it does look somewhat like a small canon.
   
Carré d’Agneau du Charolais Rôti,  Ravioli de Tomates  Basilic  – A roasted rack of Charolais lamb served with tomato ravioli flavored with basil.
      

A rack of lamb.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sporkist/4864677211/
    

Côtes d'Agneau du Charolais En Croûte de Noix, Jus de Thym et Harmonie de Haricots - Charolais lamb chops baked ‘en Croûte” inside a walnut covering. This dish is flavored with the juice squeezed from the herb thyme and is served with three different beans. The beans, taken from among France’s many dried beads will be chosen for the way their tastes and texture work together in harmony.  In this lamb dish, it is probably White Kidney Beans, Red Kidney Beans, and Haricots Blanc beans
     

Lamb chops ready for the grill
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/297554064/
    

Filet d'Agneau du Charolais – A fillet of the Charolais lamb, the lamb tenderloin. A lamb filet will be grilled or occasionally fried. The French prepare lamb very well; however, be aware that for grilled and or roast lamb the French will expect that you prefer it slightly rare, rosé in French. When roast lamb or grilled lamb dishes are on the menu, French waiters, unlike for steaks or cuts of beef, will rarely ask how you want your lamb cooked.  If you have ideas that do not include lamb rosé, then advise and discuss your preferences, with your waiter when ordering
  
Gigot d'Agneau Charolais aux Épice – Leg of Charolais lamb prepared with spices.  
     

Roast leg of lamb
   
Salade d’Agneau du Charolais et Haricots Blancs, Sauce Gremolata – A salad of Charolais lamb prepared with Haricot White Beans served with Sauce Gremolata – Gremolata is an Italian sauce/condiment made with garlic, lemon, and parsley.  Gremolata is really a condiment and served when the lamb is served. In Italy Gremolata is often served with osso buco.
   
Souris d'Agneau Confite et Caramélisée, Haricots Cocos de Paimpol Souris d’agneau is the fore shank and knuckle of lamb. Here it is served as a caramelized confit accompanied by the highly rated Coco de Paimpol AOP beans. A Souris d’Agneau is nearly always prepared as part of a stew or, as here, as a confit.   Confits of lamb are made by very slowly cooking the meat on a low heat in its own fat and juices. A slow, low, heat breaks down the muscle and other tissues so that the meat will practically melt in your mouth. Here the lamb and its juices are cooked until they are caramelized.
  
Your French-English travel dictionary will offer the translation of souris as a mouse or rat!  Worry not,  there are no mice or rats in this dish. The name came at some time in French culinary history when a chef thought that the cut resembled a large mouse or a rat and that unfortunate name stuck.
 
Duck, Goose and Pork confits as well a fruit and vegetable confits are prepared differently.  For more about the different confits that may be on your menu click here.
   

Souris d’Agneau.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/donutgirl/2155208677/sizes/m/
 
The Province of Bourbonnais and the Bourbon Kings of France:
 
Bourbonnais was a historical province in the center of France. That province corresponds to the modern department of Allier in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes along with part of the department of Cher in the region of Centre -Val de Loire.  King Henry III of Navarre became Henry IV of France and the first Bourbon King.  The last Bourbon King was King Louis-Phillipe (1773-1850) who ruled France from 1830 -1848. Louis-Phillipe abdicated during the second French revolution in 1848 and chose exile in England where he died in 1850.

   

Statue of King Henry IV, “Good King Henry,” the first Bourbon King,
The statue is on the Pont-Neuf Bridge over the River Seine, Paris.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/archer10/14687791576/
   
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016

Crabe de Neige – The Snow Crab. The snow crab in French cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
 
The Snow Crab
Photograph courtesy FAO Fisheries and Aquaculture Department

Crabe de Neige - The Snow Crab, Tanner Crab, Queen Crab and Spider Crab.  The snow crab is a star among the families of long-legged crabs. Snow crabs have a sweet and delicately flavored meat. They are for, historical reasons, considered less interesting than the king crab. The main reason being that that they are smaller and so were considered less valuable. The king crab meat is a little firmer but both are excellent eating.  Enjoy the snow crab when it is not overcooked.
     
The snow crab and France's homegrown crabs.
  
Snow crabs are abundant in the Atlantic Ocean and I was told that most of those sold in France come from Greenland, but I have also seen them in supermarkets labeled imported from Canada.  France’s has some excellent local crabs and they may be enjoyed in season; they include the Crabe Tourteau, the edible brown crab;  the Crabe Araignée, the Crabe Bleu, the blue Crab, and the Crabe Mou, the local soft-shelled crabs.

The snow crab legs in France are totally different to 90% of the snow crab legs that appear on your plate in the USA.

The crabe de neige is well prepared in France; rarely will you just see snow crab legs and a cocktail sauce like so many USA offerings.  At its simplest, you may be offered a salad with snow crab meat and a vinaigrette dressing.  If the chef is enterprising you may be offered snow crab meat fried in butter or a recipe that is even more compelling.  Too often in the USA snow crab legs, are over cooked and served when tasteless and without any texture. I have never had that happen to me in France; in fact, I have never seen snow crab legs boiled and just served with a cocktail sauce and nothing else. In any case, French cocktail sauce is very different to that in the USA;  French cocktail sauce has no horse-radish to cover up a tasteless crab leg. French cocktail sauce is fresh mayonnaise, tomato ketchup, tabasco, and cognac.
  
The snow crab on French menus:

Le Cocktail de Crabes des Neiges en Verrine, Mangue, Pomme Verte, Céleri Rave, Cappuccino de Crustacés A cocktail of snow crab meat interleaved in a glass bowl, this is for your visual appreciation. Here this dish includes slices of mango, green apple, and celeriac all served with a frothy mousse made from crustaceans; that moose would probably be made from shrimps and crab. 

The original Cappuccino coffee got its name from the color of the coffee and the similar color of the Cappuccino monks’ headwear.  However, since then the cappuccino coffee has given its name to anything frothy, without any connection to the color. Hence the menu reading Cappuccino de Crustacés  just means a frothy moose.
  
A verrine is a glass, a glass dish or glass bowl that allows you to see and enjoy the display of the foods inside.  In France, the attractive presentation of the food you will eat is just a little less important than the taste
    

A verrine of snow crab.
   
Des Pinces de Crabe de Neige, Semi Décortiquées, Poêlées Dans du Beurre. Snow crab pincers with the shells partially removed lightly fried in butter.
    

A serving of snow crab.
   
Les Ravioles de Crabe de Neige, Consommé de Champignons Sauvages, Râpures de Truffe d'Automne  - Ravioli made with the snow crab meat served in a consommé of wild mushrooms and presented with gratings from the Autumn truffle; this is the Burgundy truffle. With a dish like this ask if the truffle can be grated in front of you and do not be embarrassed to ask for more if the truffle gratings look to few and far between. The Burgundy truffle and the Perigord truffle are the two most expensive among France’s edible truffles. However, too little truffle wastes whatever you pay for the dish as the truffles effect on the dish’s taste will not be noticeable.
   

Catching Snow Crab

Rosace de Crabe des Neiges Décortique – Shelled crab meat from the snow crab presented in the shape of flower petals or a circle or semi-circle.

Wrap au Saumon Fumé Par nos Soins et Chair de Crabe des Neiges – A wrap of home-smoked salmon served with snow crab meat.
   

A smoked salmon and snow crab meat wrap

The snow crab in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - cranc de les neus)  (Dutch - Arctische sneeuwkrab)    (German  - Arktische seespinne schneekrabbe, kurzschwanz-krebs). (Italian - granseola artica), ( Spanish – cangrejo de las nieves),

France's home-grown crabs:
   
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016
 

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