Entrecôte (Entrecote). Ordering a Perfect Entrecote Steak in France.

Entrecôte –  Entrecote.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

    
An entrecote, cooked á Point.
An entrecote cooked à point will be rare to medium-rare;
Photograph courtesy of jypygen
    
An entrecote is a rib-eye steak in North America, while in the UK an entrecote may be called a rib-eye or fore-rib steak; then depending from what part of the rib it is cut in a UK restaurants that same French entrecote may be on the UK menu as a sirloin steak.  N. B. A US sirloin is a different cut to a UK sirloin; it comes from a cut further down the back, the UK sirloin is better. To order your steak cooked, in France, the way you like it back home see the post:  Ordering a steak in France, cooked the way you like it.
In France, an entrecote is usually served without the bone.
     
The French word entrecôte translates as between the ribs, and that is certainly where this cut comes from; an entrecote or rib-eye steak is one of the tastiest steaks that any restaurant can offer. In many US restaurants, a rib-eye steak may be on the menu bone-in, that is with the bone; however, French entrecote steaks are usually prepared without the bone. The French cut these steaks leaving a line of fat on the edge, and that keeps the meat moist while cooking; most excess fat will be removed before serving.                   
        

An entrecôte ready for the grill.
                                        Photograph courtesy of Jonathan Koertge.

An entrecote on a French menu:

Entrecôte Bordelaise -  An entrecote in the manner of Bordeaux. This is the most famous of France's many Entrecote recipes and made with Sauce Bordelaise.

The Sauce Bordelaise, which may be part of many other dishes is made with veal stock, Bordeaux red wine, butter, shallots, thyme and bone marrow.
    
 Entrecôte Bordelaise à la Moelle -  An entrecôte steak cooked in the manner of Bordeaux, with added bone marrow. A Sauce Bordelaise will usually have included a small amount of bone marrow; however, when the dish is à la Moelle then more bone marrow will have been added to the sauce which will give it a velvety texture. Additional pieces of bone marrow will be added to the steak just as it is about to be served.
                    


Entrecôte Bordelaise à la Moelle
In the photograph above the beige circles on the steak are pieces of bone marrow.
Photograph by Monkey Business/Yaymicro.com

A note about  the wine to accompany an Entrecote Bordelaise
         
 Sauce Bordelaise will have been made with a dry Bordeaux wine. When ordering wine to accompany your Entrecote Bordelaise choose a wine that complements rather than overpowers the sauce. In a good restaurant, this is where the sommelier, the wine steward, demonstrates his or her skills and knowledge by pointing out the wine used in the sauce.  Then with your preferences, that should include your budget, he or she can suggest a wine that will pair with the dish and not overpower the sauce.
      
Entrecôte Façon du Chef - An entrecote prepared in the manner of the chef’s choosing. Since 90% of entrecote steak are grilled here the chef’s choice will indicate particular herbs and a particular sauce. Ask.
  


Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2001 Pauillac, Bordeaux.
This may be the sommelier's choice for pairing with an Entrecote Bordelaise if you have 
not told him or her your budget!
Photograph courtesy of  cumi&ciki
 Entrecôte – Legumes  - An entrecote accompanied by vegetables. Many French restaurants, usually the smaller ones and those without pretensions, have menus that use abbreviations and restaurant shorthand like this. The indication that the vegetables are included lets you know that you must order the French fries separately.
             
 Entrecôte Marchand de Vin An entrecote steak as it would be prepared for a wine merchant. A Sauce Marchands de Vin will be a slightly stronger red wine sauce than the Sauce Bordelaise. The sauce will usually be made with a beef stock, not veal stock, without added bone marrow and the red wine may not necessarily be a Bordeaux.
    
 Entrecôte Maître d'Hôtel An entrecote steak as preferred by a restaurant manager; this is the classic French way to serve an entrecote steak. The steak is grilled to the degree requested and then a  cold (compound) butter flavored with of parsley and lemon flavored butter,  is placed on top of the steak just as it is served. Very few other herbs will have been added during cooking, often just a little salt and pepper.  The Maître d'Hôtel butter will melt and flavor the steak as the diner eats.
                    


 Entrecôte Maître d'Hôtel
Photograph courtesy of 46317.jpg
        

Entrecôte Minute – A minute steak; a small entrecote steak. This will be a thinner steak and it will probably be fried rather than grilled.
  
Noix d'Entrecôte  or Cœur d'Entrecôte – A center cut from the entrecote; the best, and tastiest cut from an entrecote.
    

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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2012, 2014. 2016
 



Bar or Loup - European Sea Bass. Bar on French Menus. European Sea Bass in French Cuisine.


from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
 Updated April 2017
bryangnewman@gmail.com
  
  
   
European seabass has a firm, delicate, white flesh. Whether caught at sea or raised on a fish farm they are a delicious fish and consequently, they are one of the most popular fish in France.  Despite the excellence of sea farmed bass, in a blind tasting, you may note the difference.  The bass caught at sea are tastier and have a different texture.   Where fish are concerned, you are what you eat.

The names of the European Sea Bass in French.
Bar, Bar Commun, Bar Sauvage or Bar de Ligne, 
and Loup, Loup de Mer or Lubina.
   
Seabass has quite a number of names on French menus. Do not worry, they are all the same fish. Most of the fish served in the center of France and along France’s Atlantic coast will be on the menus as Bar, Bar Commun, Bar Sauvage or Bar de Ligne.  In the South and along France’s Mediterranean coast the local Occitan language name remains with the European seabass being called Loup or Loup de Mer. Close to Spain, the Spanish name Lubina may be on the menu. 
  
  
Wild sea bass and farmed sea bass in France
                 
Seabass that have been farm raised will usually weigh less than 600 grams (21 oz) each and smaller fish may be served for one. A Bar Sauvage, or a Bar de Ligne, the European Sea Bass caught in the open sea, may easily weigh over two kilos (4.4lbs). These and even larger fish will be served as filets.

The European seabass on French menus:
             
Bar au Beurre Blanc – European sea bass with a Beurre Blanc Sauce.  A Beurre Blanc Sauce is often called a Sauce Nantaise and is one of the best sauces for white fish. Nantaise means from the City of Nantes where the sauce was first served.
       
Crispy sea bass with warm spinach salad and blueberry sauce


Bar au Four a la Graines de Fenouil –  European seabass baked in the oven with fennel seeds. Fennel has a stronger licorice flavor than its cousin dill. Wild fennel fruits, the seeds,  are mostly used by French chefs with fish and shellfish dishes. Many chefs outside the large cities have wild fennel gathered for them as it has a different taste to the herb bought from market gardeners.  Most wild mushrooms gatherers, ramasseurs, also gather wild herbs. These ramasseurs have specific chefs and restaurants as their loyal customers from year to year.
               
Bar de Ligne, Artichaut Violet, Jus de Crustacés – Wild seabass cooked with small violet artichokes, and seasoned with the cooking juices from shrimp and other crustaceans.  Bar de Ligne translates as a European Sea Bass caught with a rod a line; however, it only shows that the fish was captured in the wild, not specifically with a rod and line. What counts for the chef is that the fish did not come from a fish farm. The crustacean flavoring, probably mostly from shrimps, comes from the shrimps’ shells and this sauce will flavor the whole dish.
   
   
Carpaccio de Loup – A Carpaccio of sea bass. 
    
At the fish market in Sète
www.flickr.com/photos/hirondellecanada/3164858800/
  
Sete is the largest fishing port on France’s Meditteranean coast and was built as the Mediterranean entrance to the Canal de Deux Mers, the canal that joins the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.  The Atlantic entrance is Bordeaux.    Sete is also famous for its fish and seafood dishes.
           
Filet de Loup Cuit à la Vapeur d'Algue sur Coulis de Poivrons (Le) –A filet of sea bass steamed over one of France's edible seaweeds, and served with a puree of bell peppers. The use of the word loup tells us that this fish was caught in the Mediterranean. The name loup comes from the Occitan language. (Occitan lost out as the language that would unite France. However, France still has over 25 local languages and dialects that are still used; Occitan is the most important).
 
The fishing port of Sete on France's Mediterranean coast.
Photograph courtesy of  Cees Wouda.
www.flickr.com/photos/ceesjw/868094033/
  
Filets de Bar Grillés sur la Peau, aux Senteurs de Provence – Filets of sea bass grilled in their skin, and flavored and scented with the Herbs of  Provence herb group. 
  
Other fish called bass
  
European seabass and black seabass from the Western Atlantic are different fish though they are related. Once cooked and on your plate, they will seem close enough. However, there are many other fish with the word bass in their names in North America that are not related at all  These can be both fresh and saltwater fish. I, with my family, caught large-mouthed bass in Maine and they were a very tasty unrelated freshwater fish. Chilean Seabass is a tasty fish, but it is no relation to the European seabass; its name was chosen by the marketing department. Its real name is the Patagonian Toothfish.
    
The many names of the European Sea Bass.
 
It may seem strange that a single fish, the European seabass has so many French names. History, local languages, and local usage create many names for the same fish and that is true in North America and the UK.  The English names may appear on a menu or in a fishmonger's as bass, common bass, sea perch, white salmon and king of the mullets.

N.B. In France, there is one completely different fish that share a name, but not the taste or texture with European Sea Bass.  That is the Loup de Mer, the Atlantic wolfish; also called the Atlantic catfish. The Atlantic Wolfish is a very different fish and can reach 12 kilos or more. WhenAtlantic Wolfish are caught as a bycatch they may end up as a daily special where they will be baked, and served, as filets.  If you have a choice go with the European seabass,
 
The European Sea Bass in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan – llobaro), (Dutch - zeebaars ), (German – wolfsbarsch, meerbarsch), (Italian- branzino),  (Spanish – lubina, lupi, lupa).
             
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Bryan G. Newman

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