Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Searching for the Perfect Baguette? The Perfect Baguette is a Baguette de Tradition Française.

from
Behind the French Menu.
by
Bryan Newman
   


Baguettes de Tradition
Photograph courtesy of ....Antonio...
  
The traditional baguette

The traditional French baguette is made without preservatives or any other additions. It is much more than a long, thin, tasty, loaf of bread, even though it is only pure wheat flour, water and salt. Once you have tasted a traditional French baguette then going back to a French supermarket for a baguette made with frozen dough will not be easy.
                                                  

Baguettes.
Photo by courtesy of Mark H.  Anbinder

      


A baguette is what most visitors to France mean when they ask for French bread, and that it certainly is; for many French citizens, especially Parisians, breakfast without a baguette is hardly breakfast.  A standard baguette is almost 70 cms long and weighs 250 grams; croissants are saved for the weekend,    

  

Carrying home the morning's baguette. `
Photograph courtesy of Joe Shlabotnik
  
However, baguettes may not be on every French family’s breakfast table. Baguettes and other thin breads do not keep well, these breads made without preservatives will be fresh for just a few hours. A large loaf like the pain boule, which was until the arrival of the baguette, considered "the French bread"  will last for two or three days.  The baguette is considered a Parisian bread and local breads will be preferred in other areas. Nevertheless, nearly all French hotels offer overseas visitors a baguette for breakfast. 
   

A pain boule.
On many breakfast tables outside Paris.
Photograph courtesy of kochtopf

Until a few years ago if you got up early you would see people standing in line for baguettes and other breads outside a local boulangerie, a bakery. That still happens, but today there are less and less corner bakeries and so many families buy their bread the night before. Buying bread the night before, especially a thin baguette means the bread is not 100% fresh in the morning. For more about other French breads click here.
                   

 


  Baguettes de Tradition Française. 
Photograph courtesy of Phyllis Flick. 
 
The recipe for a baguette de tradition
     
Baguettes in the supermarket and chain bakeries are baked on the premises from pre-shaped frozen dough.  Traditional French baguettes, despite their higher prices, are produced by privately owned boulangeries who have very demanding customers. A baguette de tradition is made with pure wheat flour, water and salt, and no additives at all. A baguette de tradition must be baked on the day it is sold and the dough cannot have been frozen.  The bakers order their flour from mills they know personally and consider the water used to be crucial.  Along with the ingredients noted above goes the baker’s proprietary "chef", the starter, the baker's yeast culture.  There are bakers who have the same chef,  the name given to a baker’s proprietary yeast starter, that have been in the family for many many years, some for over thirty years. From year to year their "chef", their own yeast starter, will keep their customers' returning for its unique taste.        
 

A baker’s proprietary chef, yeast, growing,
Photograph by courtesy of fujiellena
  
Natural yeasts used by these bakers provide that je ne sais quoi found in traditional baguettes.  Bakers look for natural yeasts and they wait until they find the one that provides the difference. Yeasts are floating all around us and traditional bakers look for a special natural yeasts in fields, vineyards and elsewhere, they do not buy commercial yeasts.They check the results of their yeasts in trial runs of their bread again and again; they do not let a new yeast become their chef unless they are 101% sure that it is right for their bread. 
 
Bread baking competitions.
       
 In the larger towns and cities of France, there are competitions for the best baguette de tradition, as well as other breads; these are competitions for professional bakers. The French Government Tourist Office can advise you when different cities have their bread and other baking competitions; they will tell you who are the organizers, and which competitions welcome outside visitors.
     
The annual Paris competition for baguettes de tradition is organized by the Chambre Professionnelle des Artisans Boulangers Pâtissiers de Paris, the Chamber of the Bakers and Pastry-cooks of Paris.  This chamber is a relatively new organization that was founded in 1801!   From that date alone, you may be sure that they know what they are doing and they take their competitions very seriously.
  

A boulangerie selling traditional baguettes
Photograph courtesy of myaha
           
The Parisian baguette competition is called the Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris; the winner is  granted the title of Master de la Baguette Parisienne, the Master of the Parisian Baguette.
  

A competition for the best baguette traditional.
Photograph courtesy of Ville de La Garenne-Colombes
   
To try a Baguette de Tradition Parisienne from one of the top ten in the last baguette traditional competition.click or copy and paste on the website below. The site is in French, but that does present any problems, as all you need is a name and address;you can also access the site with Google or Bing translate apps.

http://www.sp-boulangerieparis.fr/resultats_concours.asp

 When I last entered this site in April 2016 it was be renewed; however that should not last too long and then you will have the list of last year's top ten baguette bakers.
 
When the site is up and running, write down the name and address of the master baker nearest to your hotel, and go and enjoy. Bread competitions of all types are held in different areas of Paris and, of course, all over France.  In all these bread competitions it is other professionals who judge the winning loaves. These competitions are the real thing; they are all blind tastings held in the presence of the competitors
  
The world’s most important baking competition.
      
The world’s most important baking competition is the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie, the World Cup of Pastry competition held in the city of Lyon, France.  For more information click or copy paste on this English language website.

http://www.cmpatisserie.com/

This World Cup is held bi-annually in the city of Lyon; visitors may also attend. You may order tickets on the web, but order early as the number of tickets for non-professionals are limited.                
  
N.B. On a French menu, the word baguette may also be used to describe other stick shaped foods, usually short, thin, sticks of fried or baked vegetables.


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Bryan G. Newman

Behind The French Menu.
Copyright 2010, 2011, 2012, 2016.

For information on the unpublished book behind this blog contact Bryan Newman
at
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com