Saturday, October 20, 2012

The Croissant. and its History. The Croissant is France's Most Famous Pastry, but its Origins Come From Outside France.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
  

Un croissant - A croissant.
Photograph by courtesy of posterize through freedigitalphotos.net.
   
A croissant is made from ultra-thin layers of a pâte levée feuilletée, a yeast based puff pastry, to begin each of the thin leaves of  the pastry are separated by butter.  For the French, a well-made croissant will have 40% or more of its weight from butter. The croissant took its name from its original shape, a crescent; today you may have a croissant in many shapes.
                 
First: Buying a croissant in France.
For the history of the croissant's see further down this post.
        
Despite all the mouth-watering croissants in French bakery windows the original croissant au beurre, the plain butter croissant, leads with a 40% market share.  The croissant au chocolat, the chocolate stuffed croissant is second in the popularity stakes, and as I was reminded, the croissant aux amandes, the almond croissant, comes a close third. The almond croissant is stuffed with almond paste and has a light covering of almond shavings on top.   
  

Almond croissants.
Photograph courtesy of iferneinez.
  
Croissants at breakfast in France.
 
During the week, croissants are not, usually, on the breakfast table in a French home; it is at the weekend that the croissant rules the French breakfast table. During the week a baguette, or another French bread, with butter and jam will suffice. Visitors, in most hotels, for breakfast, will include croissants along with a number of French breads that no doubt will include baguettes. French cafes will always offer two or three different croissants at breakfast time along with their breakfast menus. It is later in the day that the cafes will have a much wider choice of croissants.
   

Breakfast in a French cafe.
Photograph courtesy of einalem
.
Croissants at lunchtime.
  
Large stuffed croissants will be on lunchtime menus in, cafés and snack bars where  they compete with sandwiches. Croissants may be stuffed with ham and cheese or more adventurous fillings and a restaurant lunch menu may offer a stuffed croissant  accompanied by French fries, chips, and a small green salad.
 

Croissants at lunchtime.
Photograph courtesy of roboppy.
  
Croissants in the afternoon

Croissant  compete with other pastries for afternoon customers; the croissants will be offered in varieties unseen anywhere else.
  


A croissant with strawberry and cream.
Photograph courtesy of Neilwill
   
The croissants offered may include:

Croissant au Beurre   The original and still most popular butter
croissant.
          
 Croissant aux Chocolat- A croissant stuffed with Chocolate
            
Croissant aux Abricots – An apricot croissant
              
Croissant au Jambon  - A croissant stuffed with ham. Usually jambon Blanc, also called jambon de Paris; that is a cooked ham, not cured ham.
                 
Croissant aux Saumon A croissant with salmon.
                  
Croissant au Fromage – A croissant stuffed with cheese. The most popular cheeses will be Gruyere, Munster, Comte, Roquefort, Camembert and Brie.
               
 Croissant à la Confiture de Lait – Croissants with dulce de leche.

Why the croissants of France taste better.
   
Outside of those cafés and supermarkets that serve mass produced croissants, the croissants served in France always tastes far better than any of those I have  tried elsewhere.  The perfect croissants’ light and unique texture are made by rolling the pastry together with nearly 50% butter, by weight; it is rolled again and again,  and that is what makes a great croissant. When in France pay a little more and buy the  real  thing, a French croissant with its pastry interleaved with butter. You may watch your cholesterol by limiting the number of croissants that you eat; there are 180 calories in an average croissant.
     
The legends behind the croissant’s creation.
                                                          
 There are many stories about the croissant and its creation; some of these stories began over one thousand years ago, while other stories, as may be expected, include Marie-Antoinette. One of the favorite stories connects the croissant to the European wars with the Ottoman Turks; the Turkish flag includes a crescent, and that is a croissant in French.
  


La Lune Croissante - The Crescent Moon.
Photograph by courtesy of Pierre J.
               
The real history of the French croissant.
                                   
The creator of the French croissant was neither French nor Turkish; rather it was an Austrian businessman, August Zang (1807 – 1888).  From a prior visit to Paris, Zang knew of the French love  and admiration for Austrian cakes and pastries and saw an excellent business opportunity in selling  the French genuine Austrian pastries.    Zang returned to Paris, in the late 1830’s, complete with the best Austrian pastry chefs he could entice away from Vienna, and opened a Viennese bakery in Paris at 93 Rue de Richelieu. Rather obviously, the bakery was named the Boulangerie Viennoise.  


The Boulangerie Viennoise, as it was in 1909.
Then it was owned by Philibert Jacquet.
Photograph Wikipedia Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

 In the 1800’s the Viennese, not the French, were considered  the leaders in all types of baking and pastry making, and French chefs travelled to Vienna to study with the masters. Even Antonin Carême, France’s foremost chef of the 19th century, with pastry his first love, paid his dues by visiting the leading pastry chefs of Vienna. Zang's bakery sold all types of Viennese and Austrian pastries including a traditional, tasty, crescent shaped, Austrian pastry called a kipferl, a crescent in German.
  
 Zang's Boulangerie Viennoise was a success and within a year had Parisians standing in line. With success comes imitation and very quickly French boulangeries and patisseries began making copies of Zang’s Austrian pastries. Those pastries included the kipferl under the name croissant, a crescent in French, and the rest is history.

How the Croissant au Beurre Became French.
                               
The French bakers, as may be expected tweaked, some of the original recipes, including that of the kipferl by adding more butter. Now the croissant au beurre, the butter croissant, was on its way and has never looked back. After ten years with his  very successful Boulangerie Viennoise Zang was looking for new heights to conquer.  In 1847, Austria ended newspaper censorship and Zang saw another business opportunity as a newspaper publisher.  Zang sold his Boulangerie Viennoise to a French pâtissier and returned home to Austria without even a plaque at 93 Rue de Richelieu. Zang went on to make millions as the founder of the Die Presse newspaper which is still in print today.
                                   
 A few years further on Zang would sell his newspaper and again look for new opportunities; he went on to become a banker and industrialist.  When Zhang passed on, he was buried in the Zentralfriedhof cemetery in Vienna.  His ornate tomb is today a place of pilgrimage for those who honor the man who made a gift of the croissant to France.
  

The tomb of August Zang in Vienna.
Photograph courtesy of find a grave added by §ĸỵнï
                  
  Today, without any argument, except maybe from the Viennese, the croissant is French.   Many French boulangeries, patisseries, cake shops, still today honor the Viennese pastry chefs by noting on their storefronts that they offer Viennoiseries.   Viennoiseries  are small pastries, somewhat similar to the Danishes in the USA; however, they are made with a puff pastry.  When walking around any towns or city in France just look at the wording on a few French boulangerie and patisserie store fronts; some of these shops just call themselves a Viennoiserie. Those shops will also sell croissants
         


A boulangerie and Viennoiserie in Paris today.
Photograph by courtesy of hugovk

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Bryan G. Newman

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For information on the unpublished book behind this blog contact Bryan Newman
at
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com