by
Bryan G. Newman
from
Behind the French Menu
Almonds in the French kitchen.
Almonds are an indispensable part of
French cuisine; they will be in French recipes from the hors d’œuvre to the
dessert and are, of course, essential for many pastries. Almonds are also the indispensable
ingredient, in France’s famed massepain, marzipan. Almond adapt to all flavors, add their own when required, and add a very unique texture. Go to France and enjoy almonds in many different forms.
Marzipan
Marzipan is the sweet almond based
candy, that is also often used for decoration.
Marzipan is made with almond paste along with plenty of sugar and egg
whites. The shops that sell marzipan do
so in an enormous variety of shapes including animals, fruits, and vegetables,
etc., Marzipan was quite likely a Roman,
or even an earlier invention where honey was used instead of sugar. However, whether a Roman creation or not France’s chefs produce some of the
finest marzipan in the world.
.jpg)
A Winnie the Pooh marzipan cake.
Photograph courtesy of
Anderson Vaz
In the French kitchen, three nuts reign paramount. The noix, the walnut, the amande, the almond, and the noisette, the
hazelnut. While the walnut may be the
most expensive nut. The almond is,
without any doubt, the most important in the chef’s recipe book.
Almonds on French menus:
Dattes
Farcies à la Pâte d'Amande
– Dates stuffed with almond paste.
Fromages
Blanc au Miel
et Amandes – Fresh white cheese served with honey and
almonds.
Sole
Façon Belle Meunière aux Amandes –
Sole
meunière, made in the
manner of a beautiful miller’s wife; served with almonds.
Sole Amandine.
Photograph courtesy of Dana McMahan
Almonds in pastries and cakes.
You may make a quick check on the
almond’s popularity by looking at a display of pastries in any medium-sized French
café; a cafe that offers at least seven or eight choices of pastries or cakes. Without a doubt, two or three or more pastries
will have almonds in their recipes. In the rare cases where almonds are in
less than thirty per cent of the recipes their place will have been taken by the
walnut or hazelnut.
The almond tree comes to France.
Of course, we again must blame the
Romans for bringing the almond tree to France along with apricots
trees, cherry
trees, plum trees and many others. Already 2,000 years ago, almonds were part
of the Roman diet and culture. The Romans traditionally showered newlyweds with
almonds as a fertility charm. That ancient tradition, with a twist, still
continues in France, and in many other cultures. At weddings, births, baptisms, in fact, on
any happy occasion in France the guests will often receive dragées amande,
sugared almonds, as gifts.
.jpg)
Sugared almonds.
Photograph courtesy of Gian Luigi Perrella
Almond candies, sweets.
Look in the window of a traditional
chocolatier, a traditional French chocolate shop, or a traditional confiserie,
a traditional confectioner. Then go to a modern candy store, a sweet shop,
and, of course, a supermarket. All will
offer an endless choice of candies, sweets, that include almonds.
A
traditional confiserie.
Photograph
courtesy of Thomas PLESSIS.
Lait
d'Amande – Almond milk.
Almond milk is another recipe introduced by
the Romans; it is made by soaking almonds for two or three days and then peeling
and blending them. However, I have no idea how the Romans made almond milk absent blenders? In sauces and
dessert recipes, almond milk adds its unique flavor without the texture of the
nut. French chefs have improved on the original Roman recipes and add other
flavors. As almond milk has no
connection to real milk, it is also enjoyed by vegans and those with milk
allergies. My first vegan cappuccino
introduced me to almond milk when it did an outstanding job replacing cow’s
milk.
Almond milk.
Photograph courtesy of Andrew Brusnahan
Almond milk on French menus:
Dos de
Cabillaud
au Chou-Fleur, Parfumé au Lait d’Amande
– A cut from the meatiest portion of cod.
the fish; served with cauliflower flavored with almond milk.
Glace
au Lait d’Amande – Ice cream made with almond milk.
Almonds from the sea.
Amandes is both the plural for the
almond, the nut and a short form for the amande de mer, the sea almond.
Amande
de Mer (l') - The
sea almond; a smooth-shelled clam.
The Amande de Mer The
sea almond or dog cockle.
Photograph courtesy of gigile
Almond
desserts and history.
Amandes
Aboukir – Whole almonds covered in almond
paste or marzipan and dipped in caramelized sugar. These are served as a petit
four, occasionally as a dessert. This dish is named by the French after the Bay
of Aboukir off the coast of Egypt. That bay is famous in French history as the
site of Napoleon I’s victorious land-based battle with the Ottoman Turkish
army. Here, began the slow end to Turkish rule over Egypt and historically was
the battle that paved the way for the construction of the Suez Canal and
eventually Egyptian independence.
However, the British remember the Bay of
Aboukir differently. For them, it was the setting for the “Battle of the
Nile.” Here, on 1 August 1798, Admiral
Nelson destroyed or captured 15 of Napoleon’s 17 ships of the line. It was that
disaster that marooned Napoleon in North Africa and the Middle East for four
out of his five months stay. To enjoy
your meal in France; there is absolutely no need to remind your French Maître
D’ about Nelson’s “Battle of the Nile!”
The
Battle of the Nile. The way the British
remember it.
Photograph
courtesy of Black Country Museums
Amandine
–
Used as part of the name for many dishes where almonds play a prominent
part.
Tarte
Amandine – A tart made with almonds mixed with
apples or other fruits.
Tarte
Amandine and ice cream
Photograph
courtesy of David Smith
Amaretto - An almond flavored liqueur.
While Amaretto was created in Italy,
today, it is made all over the world. French companies such as Marie Brizard of
Bordeaux, famous for their Anisette, make their own version of Amaretto.
Connected posts:
Bryan G. Newman
Behind the French Menu
Copyright 2010, 2015
For information on the unpublished book behind this blog
contact Bryan Newman
at
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
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