Showing posts with label Steak Tatar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Steak Tatar. Show all posts

Filet Mignon on French Menus and Filet de Bœuf in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

     
An 8-ounce Filet Mignon
  
When ordering a Filet Mignon in France
rule No 1 is to read the menu carefully.
     
A Frenchman, an Englishman and an American meet in Paris and decide to have lunch together. Without waiting for a menu the Frenchman chooses the best steak dish he can think of and orders a Filet de Boeuf, the Englishman ordered a Fillet Steak; and the American orders a Filet Mignon. The Frenchman and the Englishman are served excellent cuts from the center of a beef tenderloin, large fillet steaks. The American was served a superb cut, but, from a pork tenderloin!  He had not remembered rule number 1.
  
 A Filet Mignon in the USA
   
Ordering a Filet Mignon in the USA indicates that you want the very best of beef steaks.  In the USA a Filet Mignon is the name usually given to the tenderloin, a large muscle that is the most tender of all cuts.  Other cuts make great steaks and they may be tastier, but they are not as tender. A Filet Mignon is the most expensive cut that most US restaurants offer and it will generally be served with a sauce.
  
What is happening here?
  
The French term Filet Mignon means “dainty fillet” in English. In France, it does not refer to the whole beef tenderloin, rather to the narrow, almost pointed, end of the tenderloin. The thick end of a beef tenderloin, the fillet, in France is reserved for the cuts called a Chateaubriand and a Tournedos. As the tenderloin becomes thinner, about halfway down, the French will cut their Filets de Boeuf, beef fillets. The French beef Filet Mignon is the name given to the last few inches of the narrowest part of the tenderloin. Nevertheless, the term Filet Mignon may be used for a whole tenderloin, but that will be a pork or veal tenderloin! N.B. Confusion for the American traveler in France began in the American kitchen. When US chefs and butchers took French names for their own use but changed their original meanings they omitted to inform would-be travelers.
    
This cut, even when well marbled, has little natural fat and whether called a filet mignon in the USA or a fillet steak in the UK or a filet de bœuf in France they will be barded, wrapped in fat, before being cooked. Without the barding the steak would dry out. N.B. This cut should never be ordered well done. To see the post on ordering a steak in France cooked the way you like it click here.
     
A whole beef tenderloin (without any bone) may weigh anywhere from 1.3 kilos (2.5 lbs) to 2.3 kilos (4.5 lbs). In the USA most restaurants take the whole tenderloin beginning at the thickest end and cut 2" to 2.5" thick steaks until they reach the narrow end.  A large sized US Fillet Mignon steak is around eight ounces (225 grams). Some North American restaurants offer 10-ounce (280 gram) Filet Mignons.  
  


A whole tenderloin.
Photograph courtesy of Marx Foods.
   
The smallest part at the end of this cut, on the right-hand side in the picture above, is the French Filet Mignon, the dainty fillet.    Nevertheless, cuts taken from here will, in France, rarely be called Filet Mignon, rather they will on the menu as Médaillions, or used for the highest quality Steak Tartar or cut for dishes such as Beef Stroganov.  Whole tenderloins of pork and veal are much smaller, and it is for these that the French use the words Filet Mignon. A tenderloin, a Filet Mignon, from an average pig weighs about 500 grams (17.5 ounces, 1.1 lbs), and that is about enough for three people, two if they are very hungry.  A veal tenderloin weighs about 700 grams (24.5 ounces, 1.5 lbs), a fair sized meal for three.
    
Filet de Bœuf on French Menus:
   
Filet de Bœuf Poêlé, Jus de Cresson et Pommes Grenailles – A lightly fried fillet steak (tenderloin) served with a watercress sauce and small new potatoes.
   
A Filet de Bœuf.
  
Cœur de Filet de Bœuf Grillé, Sauce au Poivre Vert. A grilled center cut  from the heart, the center, of a beef tenderloin, served with a green pepper sauce,
  
Filet de Bœuf en Brochette Marchand de Vin – A beef fillet cut into cubes and served on a skewer with a Sauce Marchand de Vin; that is a sauce prepared for a wine merchant. A beef fillet served this way allows the use of the thin end of the tenderloin, the French Beef Filet Mignon which may be cut into small pieces. A Sauce Marchand de Vin is made with red wine and beef stock. N.B. The word brochette with two tees may easily be confused with brochet, with one tee, which is pike, the fish.
  
Filet de Bœuf, Sauce au Porto, Fricassée de Cèpes, Pleurotes et Champignons de Paris – A beef fillet served with a Port wine sauce and a stew of wild Porcini mushrooms and farmed oyster and button mushrooms
   
Médaillons de Filet de Bœuf Balsamique – Round cuts from the end of the tenderloin (medallions) served with a Balsamic vinegar sauce.
   
  
Médaillons de Filet de Bœuf
These three cuts together will weigh less than 6 or 7 ounces,
(170 to 200 grams).
Photograph courtesy of www.boeufinfo.org/

Tartare de Filet Mignon de Bœuf –  A Beef or Steak Tartar. The best Tartar will be cut from the end of the tenderloin, no better cut could be used for a steak Tartar
   
     
French beef comes from freely grazing grass-fed cattle
  
There are cattle feeding lots in France, but they are few and far between.  When the beef on your menu is named and it has a Red Label or an AOP then you know it is farm raised. You also know the calves were raised by their mother until they were weaned. The cattle graze freely in the summer and only in the winter are they allowed into barns. In the barns they are fed the same grasses, wildflowers and herbs they grazed on in the summer.   French beef will, therefore, be tastier, though it may also be slightly tougher as the cattle will have had more exercise. French beef may be well marbled but overall has less fat than beef sold in the USA.
   
You will nevertheless, see Filet Mignon on French Menus:
     
Filet Mignon de Porc aux Pêches, Miel, Amandes et Son Jus au Romarin – A pork tenderloin prepared with peaches, honey, almonds and a sauce made from the natural cooking juices and Rosemary, the herb.
 
Filet Mignon de Porc Jus a l'EstragonA filet mignon or pork served with a sauce made from the natural cooking juices and tarragon.
 
Filet Mignon De Veau Charolais, Son Jus Aux Escargots Du Brionnais Et Porto Rouge – A cut from a tenderloin of Charolaise veal served with a sauce made from the natural cooking juices and large-sized farmed petit gris snails, from the area of the Saône and the Loire in South Burgundy, and a red Port wine. The AOP Charolaise cattle were the third breed to receive an AOC to protect their provenance and unique qualities. To that French AOC has been added the Pan-European AOP.
 
Filet Mignon De Veau, Fricassée De Rattes Et Eryngii, Sauce Au Vin Rouge Et Morilles – A  veal filet mignon alongside a stew of ratte potatoes and farmed King Trumpet Oyster mushrooms served with a sauce made with red wine and wild morel mushrooms. (Ratte are a popular strain of potatoes in France.  Their name comes from their spurious resemblance to a mouse or a rat; rest assured that their look has nothing to do with their taste which is superb).
  
Ratte Potatoes.
  
More French confusion in US Kitchens
  
Another example of confusion with the use of French in the US kitchen is the use of the word entrée. Entrée in French means “the entrance, the beginning.”  Following on that entrée in France is used for the first course. In the USA they took the French word entrée and use it for the main course!
   
George Bernard Shaw said:  England and America are two countries separated by a common language.  However, Shaw ignored the confusion that arises when US chefs and butchers take words from French cuisine and bring them into the American kitchen.

A tenderloin steak in the languages of France’s neighbors: 

(Catalan – llom de bou), (Dutch - ossenhaas), (German – rinderfilet), (Italian - filetto di manzo), (Spanish  -  filete de lomo ).
   
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016.

Bœuf Charolais - Charolais Beef; the Very Best Beef in France.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
Charolais cows.
www.flickr.com/photos/45449312@N00/1733676500/
     
The Charolais AOP cattle are highly rated for their meat. They are the third French breed of cattle to be awarded an AOC (now upgraded to an AOP) for their meat's consistent superior quality. For livestock, an AOP also sets out the manner in which the cattle are raised and what they may be fed. The Charolais herds are all free-range and feed on grasses and wildflowers and herbs in the summer. In the winter, when they are moved to sheltering barns, where they are fed local grasses and cereals that were collected in the summer from their grazing areas and stored. Additionally, all AOC cattle must be totally free of growth hormones and antibiotics. The calves must be raised by their mothers and may not be separated until they are weaned.
  
A Charolais Cow
\www.flickr.com/photos/dhwright/6997890059/
  
Charolais cattle are almost entirely white; it is marvelous to drive through the countryside in the summer with the beautiful contrasts of the grass and the white herds of these cattle. However; I worry that if any of these cattle were left outside when it snows, no one would find them!
 
Apart from veal, the Charolais are not brought to market until they are at least two and a half years old, so their body fat is distributed with well-marbled beef.

The Charolais Beef on French menus:

Filet de Boeuf Charolais aux Morilles et Savagnin Gratin de Pomme de Terre et Légumes de Saison - A cut from a Charolais fillet, the tenderloin, prepared with morel mushrooms and a Savagnin wine sauce.  The fillet is always the tenderest cut of beef; however, it is not the tastiest, and in France, a cut from the fillet is always served with a sauce.. Here the sauce is made with the natural cooking juices, morel mushrooms, and the  Savagnin wine.
 
The Savagnin grape produces some fantastic white wines in the French department of Jura bordering Switzerland. The wine’s name in French comes from the word sauvage meaning wild, and that indicates that the vines and grapes came from wild vineyards.

Le Carpaccio de Bœuf  Charolais, Mesclun et Copeaux de Parmesan Carpaccio of Charolaise beef served with a mesclun salad and sprinkled with flakes of Parmesan cheese.
      

Boeuf Carpaccio
www.flickr.com/photos/marsupilami92/32731729907/
   
Pavé de Rumsteck "Charolais" Sauce au Poivre Vert – A thick cut of a Charolais rump steak, prepared with a green pepper sauce. A North American or UK rump steak comes from a slightly different cut to the French Rumsteck. In France, a rump steak will be barded while cooking; meaning that it will be tied around with fat to prevent it from drying out as naturally, this cut has little fat. The result is that French cuts from the rump will usually be tastier than similar cuts at home. The sauce offered is a green pepper sauce; nearly all pepper steaks are made with green peppercorns with good reason. Green peppercorns are picked before they are ripe, and then they are pickled in brine before drying; the result is a pepper with a slightly herbal flavor that is much less pungent than black or white peppercorns. With a green pepper sauce, it is far easier to control the taste that while white or black pepper could easily under or over season the dish.   
    
Pave de Rumsteck


salade mesclun is a green salad that should include at least five different salad greens. The most popular salad greens, in France, apart from the many types lettuce, include roquet, rocket; pissenlit, dandelion leaves; and, mâche, lamb's lettuce. It may be that your salade mesclun will have colorful additions and that is acceptable; often that will be radicchio. There are almost 100 varieties of lettuce and salad greens available in France, so the chefs have plenty to choose from.  

Tartare de Bœuf Charolais,  Pommes Frites et Salade de Jeunes Pousses –  Steak Tatar made with Charolais beef and served with French fries, chips, and a salad of young vegetable leaves.  The most popular young leave, shoots, come from spinach, chicory, Belgian Endives, arugula, and watercress. 
   
Tartare de Bœuf
Steak Tatar.
www.flickr.com/photos/cyclonebill/9382942005/

Tournedos de Bœuf du Charolais Poêle, sa Béarnaise a la Truffe Noire avec Petits Légumes de Printemps a la Vapeur d'Estragon et Couronne de Pommes de Terre Rôties  –   The  thickest cut from the end of the fillet, the tenderloin, is called the tournedos in France. A tournedos will be the cut used for a Tournedos Rossini, and a double tournedos will be a  Chateaubriand.  Here, the tournedos is lightly fried and then served with a  Béarnaise sauce that has been flavored with the black Périgord truffle. The dish is accompanied by steamed young spring vegetables steamed with tarragon and served in a ring of roast potatoes.  Béarnaise sauce is one of France's really awesome sauces; it is part of many beef or fish dishes whether they are served hot or cold.  Sauce Béarnaise was the creation of the chef and restaurateur Jean-Louis Françoise Collinet. Collinet took Sauce Hollandaise and replaced the lemon with white wine vinegar and shallots, and the herbs with chervil and tarragon and voila we have Sauce Béarnaise.  The chef Collinet is also remembered as the chef when in 1837, created soufflé potatoes. (Family members who traveled on the Orient Express from Paris to Venice contributed this incredibly tempting menu listing).
   
Church in Anzy Le Duc in Brionnais
www.flickr.com/photos/dierkschaefer/15186839006/

Finding Charolais and Bourbonnais on the map.
  
Part of the Charolais du Bourbonnais name for this breed of cattle comes from the village and community of Charolles in the department of Saone et Loire in the Bourgogne. (Burgundy, Bourgogne, is now joined with Franche Comte in the new super region  of Bourgogne – Franche-Comte). This area was home to the Bourbon Kings of France, hence Bourbonnais.

Portions of Charolais and Bourbonnais are now included in a new voluntary economic and agricultural grouping called Le Pays Charolais-Brionnais.   
    
How to get to Charolles
www.flickr.com/photos/ell-r-brown/34878669824/
   
The area of Charolais-Brionnais covers part of the South West of Burgundy and part of the newly joined super region of the Auvergne - Rhône-Alpes  To make things more interesting when you ask the locals who they are some call themselves Charolaise and some call themselves Bourbonnais.
   
There is much more than beef on the menu with the names Charolais and Bourbonnais.
   
Charolais AOP -  Fromage Charolais AOP -  A 45% fat, creamy,  goat’s milk cheese made with unpasteurized milk.    
      
Charolais AOP Cheese.

 L’Agneau Charolais Fermier du Bourbonnais, Label Rouge  – The highly rated breed Charolais Bourbonnais red label lambsthat developed alongside the Charolais cattle. When Charolais lamb is on the menu, do not pass it by.
  
The Volailles Label Rouge Bourbonnais IGP -  The Bourbonnais poultry. Their highly rated poultry includes their farm-raised chickens, their Poulet Bourbonnais Fermier Label Rouge, and their Pintade Bourbonnais, Fermière Label Rouge, their red label, farm-raised Guinea hens.
   
Guinea Hens.

     
------------------------------------------
    

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright  2010, 2011,2012, 2013, 2016, 2019
 
For information on the unpublished book behind this blog, contact Bryan Newman.
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