Les Fines Herbes; the Most Important Herb Group in the French Kitchen. Les Fines Herbes in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

A book on herbs in French and English.
Photograph courtesy of Wicker Paradise
https://www.flickr.com/photos/wicker-furniture/9486971645/

Les Fines Herbes.

Originally a blend of four herbs, today the Fines Herbes group, with thyme added along the way, is in all French kitchens as a blend of five herbs:

Cerfeuil, Chervil; Ciboulette, Chives; Estragon, Tarragon; Persil, Parsley; Thym, Thyme.

I am not a chef, nor even an adept amateur cook, and this blog is for those, like myself, who like to know what they are eating.  Les Fines Herbes are only used when fresh. Many French chefs may take a dish off the menu until fresh herbs are available. To test for yourself the difference between fresh and dry herbs, very lightly sprinkle a fresh herb or two on one part of a dish; two simply fried eggs will do for this test.  One egg with fresh herbs, one with dry herbs, then enjoy the difference. This test was shown to me by an excellent chef who spared time to listen to my questions and mentor me over many glasses of wine. I have never forgotten that simple test.

In mainland France, market gardeners make sure that everything a chef needs is available all year round. Restaurant owners also have agreements with ramasseurs, wild vegetable, fruit, and mushroom gatherers. For those who like to cook,  excellent recipes for dishes with " Les Fines Herbes" are on the web and in many cookbooks.  

A herb garden in France
Photograph courtesy of Tomer Gabel
www.flickr.com/photos/tomergabel/2978544938/

 French homes also use fresh herbs as every French supermarket carries, the most important herbs. Outside France the better French restaurants have agreements with market gardeners and, where possible, grow their own. When a chef begins to plant his or her herb garden, it is Les Fines Herbs that he or she will start with, and they will always take pride of place.

The correct proportions of the five herbs.

I asked a number of French chefs about the correct herb proportions for Les Fines Herbes, and I have received, more or less, the same answer from all:

1.     For dishes that require a delicate touch, keep the quantities of chives and tarragon low.

2.     To highlight the herbal taste, increase the chives, thyme, and parsley.

3.   Use tarragon, but with caution.  

N.B. French chefs may sometime use another herb when one of the originals is not available fresh, but they know the closest.

A dish with Les Fines Herbes should have a distinctive, but gentle, herb taste.

Cerfeuil – Chervil.

Chervil
Photograph courtesy of Edsel L
www.flickr.com/photos/edsel_/3497037949/ 

Chervil, also called Garden Chervil and French Parsley has a taste that makes you think of very mild parsley and mild aniseed at the same time; consequently, it is very popular in French cuisine. The French love aniseed, but they do not want that taste to be too strong.

Chervil in the languages of France’s neighbors: (Catalan – cerfull), (Dutch – kervel),  ( German – kerbel.  Kerbel, Gartenkerbel, Französische Petersilie ), (Italian – cerfoglio), (Spanish – perifollo), (Latin - anthriscus cerefolium).

Ciboulette – Chives.

Chives
Photograph courtesy of chipmunk_1
www.flickr.com/photos/42919152@N04/7004892558/

Chives are long, thin, straight, green blades that are hollow inside, they have a flavor reminiscent of baby spring onions. On their own, chives are used for making herbal butter, flavoring vinegar, and the flowers from the chive plant may also be used in salads. The chive is milder than most of its well-known family members that include garlic, onions, and leeks, which is the reason for its popularity. Chives work very well with eggs, cheese, yogurt, salads, sandwiches, creamy sauces, potato dishes, and omelets.

Chives in the languages of France’s neighbors: (Catalan - all junciforme), (Dutch -  bieslook), (German – schnittlauch), (Italian  - erba cipollina, aglio ungherese), (Spanish – cebollino). (Latin - allium schoenoprasum).

Estragon – Tarragon.

Tarragon
Photograph courtesy of Jasmine&Roses
www.flickr.com/photos/townandcountrygardens/3509541123/ 

Tarragon’s aroma reflects its mild aniseed taste and adds a pleasant bittersweet flavor. While I do not like heavily accented aniseed dishes or pastries very much, tarragon is perfect. Fresh tarragon leaves will be in salads, salad dressings, vinegar, sauces, soups, egg dishes, tomato dishes and herbal butters.  Tarragon will also be accenting many meat and fish recipes and is the herb at the heart of Sauce Bearnaise.

Tarragon in the languages of France’s neighbors: (Catalan - estragó), (Dutch - dragon), (German – französischer estragon), (Italian – estragone Française, dragoncello), (Spanish - estragón). (Latin - artemisia dracunculus).

Persil, Persil Frisé  - Curley Parsley 

Curley parsley
Photograph courtesy of thebittenword.com
www.flickr.com/photos/galant/2524715844/

Where exactly parsley originated is somewhat disputed, though it likely originated in Greece as ancient Greek and Roman recipes use parsley. In the recipes of the period parsley was used much like it is used in France today. Parsley pairs well with dishes that include lemon flavors. Curly parsley’s most important role is as a garnish. On its own parsley has a clean, bright flavor and is best used in its fresh form. When the herb is dried, it tends to lose it flavor.

Round parsely in the languages of France’s neighbors: (Catalan - julivert comú), (Dutch - peterselie), (German - petersilie,), (Italian – prezzemolo), (Spanish - perejil, perejil común), (Latin -  petroselinum crispum).

Persil Plat - Flat Parsley.
Photograph courtesy of  Tim Sackton  
www.flickr.com/photos/sackton/5961313895/

Most chefs agree that flat parsley has a slightly stronger taste than its curly cousin and is preferred for Les Fines Herbes, though curly parsley will work nearly as well. When parsley is noted on a menu listing, some French chefs do indicate which type is being used. However, when there are dishes that include parsley juice, then the menu listing will note the use of suc de persil plat, the flat parsley juice; flat parsley juice has a more robust flavor than curly parsley.  (There is a third member of the parsley family called root parsley, which is more usually seen in soups. Root parsely is rarely used in France and in case is not suitable for Les Fines Herbes).

Flat parsley in the languages of France’s neighbors: (Catalan - julivert Napolitano), (Dutch - platte peterselie), (German – glatte petersilie), (Italian – prezzemolo liscio),  (Spanish - perejil Napolitano), (Latin - petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)

Thym - Thyme

Thyme
Photograph courtesy of ProFlowers
https://www.flickr.com/photos/proflowers/33347571115/ 

Thyme is essential to French cuisine and preferred when fresh.  Thyme will be flavoring sauces, soups, fish and poultry, lamb, veal, fish, and, of course, herbal butters. On its own, juices pressed from thyme may be noted on a menu as jus de thyme or made into a thyme-based sauce. The juices of certain herbs like thyme and parsley are used when their taste is wanted but not the texture. Wild thyme, called serpolet on French menus, with its more robust flavor, will not be used in Les Fines Herbes, it is mostly seen in recipes from the south of France. Thym Citron, lemon thyme, may look similar to garden or cultivated thyme, but its leaves have a strong lemon scent, and that addition is not part of the flavor of Les Fines Herbes. Lemon thyme will be found in fish dishes.

Thyme in the languages of France’s neighbors: (Catalan - farigola), (Dutch – tijm), (German – tymian), (Italian – timo),  (Spanish – tomillo), (Latin - thymus vulgaris).
  

Les Fines Herbes on French menus:

  

Assiette de 12 Escargots Farcis Ail et Fines Herbes – A plate of 12 snails stuffed with garlic and the fine herbs. When garlic is used in a dish with the fine herbs group for flavor, the chef must be very careful as the two flavors may compete. The garlic will be used with care for a balanced flavor.

  

Garlic Panisse, Pecorino, Lemon, Fines Herbes

Panisses are made with farine de pois chiche, chickpea flour, in various shapes, and deep-fried. They began as street food in the City of Nice on the Cote d’Azur, France’s Mediterranean coast.   (Pecorino or Pecorino Romano is a hard, Italian cheese widely used for grating instead of Parmesan when a stronger taste is required).

Photograph courtesy of Edsel Little

www.flickr.com/photos/edsel_/25393321415/

 

Ballottine de Saumon Poché, Mayonnaise aux Fines Herbes -  A roll of poached salmon served with a fresh mayonnaise flavored with the fine herbs group. A ballotine may be meat, fish, or poultry with the bones removed; then stuffed, and rolled before braising, roasting, or poaching.

 

Carré d'Agneau Coupé en Côtelettes à l'Ail et Fines Herbes -  A rack of lamb divided into chops and flavored with garlic and the fine herbs.  As with the dish of snails above the garlic in this dish will be a very light touch.

 

Entrecôte Grillée aux Fines Herbes – An entrecote, a rib-eye steak, flavored with the fine herbs. 

 

Steak Frites with a Fines Herbes flavored butter

The butter served with this dish will be a compound butter, thickened with herbs and bone marrow, cooled, and then placed on the steak just as it is served like a Beurre Maitre D’Hotel or Beurre Bercy, the butter will slowly melt and flavor the steak.

Photograph courtesy of Johnn

www.flickr.com/photos/johnjoh/452056261/

  

Salade Verte aux Fines Herbes et Pignons de Pin Grillés,Vinaigrette de Betterave Rouge -  A green salad with fine herbs and grilled pine nuts, served with a red beetroot vinaigrette dressing.

 

Saumon Fumé au Fromage Blanc et Fines Herbes – Smoked salmon served with fresh white cheese flavored with the fine herbs.

Enjoying Les Fines Herbes 

On a road trip in France en-route to a long-awaited dinner at a famous temple of French cuisine, we stopped at 1.00 pm at a roadside restaurant for a light lunch.   We were seated under large umbrellas and enjoyed the scenery, and our friendship. (As well as the noise of the cars).

We knew that if we ate too much, we would not be able to appreciate the unique dishes promised that evening. The first of our group to choose chose an Omelet aux Fines Herbes, an omelet prepared with the fines herbs.  Then with all orders taken our server, went back to the kitchen and returned one minute later with an empty plate, and from a small, previously unnoticed, herb garden picked sprigs of parsley, basil, chives, thyme, and tarragon, and I noticed she added summer savory. The herbs she brought back to the chef in the kitchen and, of course, the Omelet Aux Fines Herbes was spectacular.  Everyone else's choices were also delicious and despite our plans, we ended our light lunch only at 15:30; unfortunately, that still left us a two-hour drive.

With travel time pressure, I was reminded again that it is virtually impossible to schedule a relaxed, sumptuous dinner after a two-hundred-plus-mile drive; you lose more than you gain.  I recommend planning culinary trips for the day or evening after a long road trip. 

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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2013, 2017, 2020.

 

   

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