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Behind the French Menu
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Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
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Almond Dacquoise.
Dacquoise or Le Biscuit Dacquoise is traditionally made with almond or hazelnut meringues layered with chocolate; some chefs, however, will offer a variety of different flavors. I have enjoyed an excellent version of Le Biscuit Dacquoise made with fresh fruits.
Hazelnuts are not only for a Dacquoise
No traces remain of a name for this cake’s original creator; he or she vanished in the fog of French culinary history; however, the cake’s name explicitly links it to the historical area of Pays Dacquois, the area around the town of Dax. Pays Dacquois is today included in the department of Landes in the region of Nouvelle Aquitaine.
Eggnog mousse cake with almond dacquoise,
striped jaconde, raspberry gelee,
www.flickr.com/photos/a_cooper/2096580861/
The town of Dax is also famous for its thermal baths.
The town of Dax was already famous for its thermal baths in Roman times; unfortunately, when the Romans left the baths fell into disuse. Having said that, I do not want anyone claiming that I have implied that none of the locals had a bath for over 1,500 years! Nevertheless, the baths are famous again.
The famous hot fountain in Dax.
The water is naturally a consistent 64 degrees centigrade every day of the year.
www.flickr.com/photos/10699036@N08/1579189067/
If you are traveling in Nouvelle Aquitaine and are close to Dax consider taking a day or two off from touring and rejuvenating yourselves at one of Dax’s spas; then, in the evening, enjoy the excellent cuisine from Dax and Aquitaine. The town of Dax is small and beautiful, and the options include staying overnight in a B and B, and using the attractive and well run public spas, or pampering yourself in a five-star hotel with its own spa on the premises.
Roman arch in Dax.
A meal in one of the town’s restaurants will introduce you to the local cuisine, and for your dessert make sure that the chef is offering his or her version of the original Dacquoise. This area is in Armagnac country, and so you are practically obligated to end your meal with a glass of Armagnac as your digestif.
Armagnac Marquis de Montesquiou 1942
Dax is in Armagnac Country.
Caveat emptor: Armagnac and other liquors, unlike wine, do not age in the bottle
Photograph courtesy of Pierre Lannes.
www.flickr.com/photos/titounet/8752106666/
Other nuts may flavor your Dacquoise:
Biscuit Dacquoise Aux Noix, Sirop de Café, Bavaroise Vanille, Chantilly Café- A Dacquoise with walnuts, coffee syrup, vanilla moose and Chantilly cream flavored with coffee. A Bavaroise is sometimes translated as a Bavarian cream mousse, which it rarely is. Bavaroise originated, rather obviously, in Bavaria, Germany, as a custard with whipped fresh cream prepared along with a vanilla or a fruit flavor and gelatin. A Bavaroise made in France today will often have a recipe that will be far from the original, and from experience, I prefer the French versions. A French Bavaroise is usually made with whipped cream mixed with a fruit puree, or the chef may use white cheese and fruits; savory variations without the cream or cheese are made with vegetables and yet others with Foie Gras.
Dacquoise Pistache – A Dacquoise made with pistachio nuts.
Moving on.
From the 13th century until nearly 100 years ago Dax had been an important inland port on the River Adour just 30 km (19 miles) from the Atlantic. Dax’s work as a port included the transport of Armagnac, wines, and timber, however, when the trains arrived in the late 19th century Dax’s port could not compete; the trains transported freight and passengers for half the price. However, for the locals and visitors, the River Ardour remains a beautiful place to walk alongside and to picnic.
The Etang de Bois de Boulogne,
In the park alongside the River Adour at Dax.
You may want to plan your trip so that you are not in the area of Dax in the middle of August. Then, there is, unfortunately, five days of full-blooded bullfighting, the Spanish style of Corrida. Catalonia in Spain has already banned the bloody, so-called sport, of bullfighting, but certain towns in southern France still permit it. Check with the local Tourism Office for the exact dates for those who do or do not wish to be there during their Feria; the website is in English..
Connected Posts:
Foie Gras in French Cuisine. Foie Gras is Fattened
Goose or Duck Liver Foie. Foie Gras on French Menus.
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
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