Showing posts with label hodgepodge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hodgepodge. Show all posts

Queue De Bœuf – Oxtail. The Tale of an Ox’s Tail in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

Oxtail soup
Photograph courtesy of Hajime NAKANO

The first recipes for oxtail soups and stews arrived in England with the Norman-French cooks who served William the Conqueror, his barons and his soldiers. The year was 1066, and William had invaded England to claim the throne based on some indirect promises; he defeated the English King Harold, who was the last of the Anglo-Saxon kings.  William was crowned King of England. 

Oxtail dishes were known to the French as hochepots, although this term also included vegetarian adaptations.  Many of William's soldiers came from the old province of Flanders in northern France, where hochepot was, and still is, a popular dish. Today, most of Flanders is within the French department of Nord, with its coast reaching the English Channel (La Manche) and the North Sea to the west.  To the north, the department of Nord borders Belgium. 

Oxtail soups and stews, with their tender, slowly cooked meat flavored by its rich bone marrow, has a soft, silky texture that you can feel on your tongue.  These dishes quickly became traditional British and Irish favorites.  With this and many other dishes, the cooks of William's army brought the French connection to the English kitchen. (BTW, William the Conqueror is a great-great-great…of the present king of England).

(Later on, the word "hochepot" became "hodge-podge" in English in the 15th century, and Longman's Dictionary gives one of the word's meanings as "a lot of things mixed up together in no order."  Obviously, that was one of the original recipes). 

A hodge-podge, a mixture of odds and ends
Photograph courtesy of Simon Law

Until about fifty years ago, oxtail soups and stews in the UK were considered too bourgeois for most restaurant menus.  Then, celebrity chefs rediscovered the tastes locked into these traditional dishes, and they may now appear on the menu in the finest restaurants.

An ox is a castrated male and, also called a bullock or steer in North America; however, be aware that in nearly all the recipes cows' tails are used just as often as an ox's tail. Additionally, in North America and the UK, there are many stews with similar-sounding names to hochpote and hodge-podge, including some vegetarian versions. 

The Queue de Bœuf, oxtail, on French Menus:


Chiffonade de Queue de Bœuf, Vinaigrette à la Moutarde à l'Ancienne – Strips of beef from the oxtail served with a vinaigrette sauce flavored with a coarse-grained, mild mustard sauce. 

     Chiffonade: The word "chiffonade" in your French-English dictionary may be translated as "rags," but on your menu, it will indicate thin strips of vegetables lightly sautéed or, as here, thin strips of meat.  Strips of smoked salmon, cured hams, or other finely cut fish or meats may also be served as a "chiffonade." 

      Moutarde à l'Ancienne translates to 'mustard in the old manner,' and it is made by soaking mustard seeds in water for a few days, then lightly crushing them to retain a grainy texture. 

 

Hochepot de Queue de Bœuf – This is a slow-cooked, hearty stew made with vegetables, typically including carrotsturnips, and onions, and is a traditional oxtail stew prepared in the style of a Pot-au-feu.

  

Oxtail soup

Photograph courtesy of Dion Hinchcliffe

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dionhinchcliffe/5440344228/

 

Parmentier de Queue de Bœuf au Vin Rouge de Touraine – Oxtail flavored with a red wine from the Touraine and served covered with mashed potatoes.  The French pharmacist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier (1737–1813), who made the potato a staple part of the French diet, is honored with his name on this and many other potato dishes.

      The Touraine is a historical, cultural, and agricultural region, as well as an ancient French province, It is located in the department of Indre-et-Loire in the center of the Val de Loire wine region and is home to many fine wines and cheeses, including the Chinon and Vouvray wines, and the Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine AOP goats' cheese.

     The Château de Chenonceau in Indre-et-Loire is the second most visited château in France, after Château de Versailles.

 

Préssé de Queue de Bœuf et Salade – In this dish the meat from the oxtail is interleaved with vegetables and pressed into a square or rectangular form from which it will be served. On this menu listing, it is accompanied by a salad.

 

Raviolis de Queue de Bœuf – Ravioli made with the tender meat of an oxtail.  Typically this dish is served with a meat and red wine sauce.

 

Soupe de Queue de Bœuf – Oxtail soup.

 

Salade de Mesclun et Terrine de Queue de Boeuf Maison – A mesclun salad served with the restaurant's special oxtail meat pâté.  

      The terrine here is a pâté that will have been made with vegetables and possibly other meats.  

      The ingredients of the salade mesclun will change with the season, but will typically include five or six salad greens chosen for their contrasting tastes and textures.

 

A salade mesclun.
Photograph courtesy of Ray

From 1066, when William the Conqueror took the throne, England had a French-speaking court and aristocracy.  From William until King Henry IV (1399–1413), there were 11 English kings and none of them spoke a word of English and that included Richard I, Richard the Lion-Heart. All these kings had Norman-French as their native language.  Henry IV is considered the first English king to have taken the oath in the English language, and his son, Henry V, was the first to write in the English language. (Henry V spoke middle-English which had a great deal of French mixed in).

The conjoined letters Œ in French:  

Since I began writing about French cuisine, I've had quite a number of questions about the conjoined letters Œ in bœuf (beef), and œufs (eggs). How are they pronounced and typed? Here, I am taking the opportunity to explain the sound of Œ and how it is typed on a Windows QUERTY keyboard.

 Œ The two letters O and linked together have a history much longer than the few French grammar lessons that I bothered to participate in in school.  You can, as usual, blame the Romans and Greeks for this strange letter or ligature, as it is properly called. When the letters are separate, they have their individual sounds in French.  In English, we mostly hear the letters O and sounded separately, as in phone and alone for and she and Peter for E.  There are, of course, many other sounds for and E when combined with other vowels in English. However, in French, when linked together as Œ they form the sound, er. So bœuf for beef, is pronounced berf and œuf for egg is pronounced erf.

                    What I learned when trying to type the letter Œ

To type œ in lowercase on a PC keyboard, hold down the "Alt" key and type 0156, and the lowercase œ will appear.  For the uppercaseŒ , type Alt and 0140.  

N.B. From experience, I also learned that the typed letters only appear when you take your finger off the Alt key.  Also, ensure the Num Lock is off before typing; otherwise, in a similar manner, nothing will appear.

Alt 0156…. Voila œ

Alt 0140…..Voila Œ

To type "œ" on a Mac 

Hold down the Option key and press the q key, then release both keys. If you need the uppercase Œ, hold down the Shift and Option keys and press the q key. 

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Behind the French Menu

by

Bryan G. Newman

Copyright 2010, 2019, 2023, 2025.

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com 

Connected Posts:

Carottes – Carrots; in French Cuisine.

Moutarde – Mustard. Mustard (Including Dijon Mustard) in French cuisine.

Oignon or Ognon – An Onion. Onions on French menus. France's most famous onions and their history.

Parmentier - The Man Who Brought the Potato to French Menus.

Pâtés and Terrines. An introduction to the meat, fish, vegetable and fruit pâtés on French menus.

Pot-au-Feu or Pot Bouilli – Pot on the Fire - France's Most Famous Stew.

Sainte-Maure de Touraine AOP -The Sainte-Maure de Touraine Cheese.  One of France's Finest Goat's milk cheeses.

Salade Mesclun – Salad Mesclun in French Cuisine.

Navets (Turnips), Panais (Parsnips), and Chou-Navets or Rutabaga (Swedes) are traditional root vegetables but also very much part of modern French cuisine.

Vinegar, Vinaigrette and Verjus in French Cuisine.

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