Glace – Ice-cream. Ice-cream on French Menus. Glacé and Glacée are Desserts That are Frozen, Iced, Chilled or Glazed.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   

 

Un Cône de Glace - An ice-cream cone.

Photograph courtesy of TheCulinaryGeek

https://www.flickr.com/photos/preppybyday/5076899310/sizes/m/

   

The French did not invent ice cream nor were they the first to bring ice-cream to Europe; that place is claimed by the Italians.  The first European ice cream recipes arrived in the late 13th century,  by tradition introduced to Italy upon Marco Polo's return from China.  Ice cream became available commercially in France, some four hundred years ago. The oldest café in France still open is Le Procope and Le Procope claims it was the first to bring ice cream to France. This café, now a fine restaurant, was opened in 1686 by an Italian immigrant from Palermo, Sicily, Francesco Procopio.

   

Outside Le Procope, Paris.

Photograph courtesy of David Lee Tiller

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dltbluefrog/3514067866/sizes/m/

   

N.B. The word for ice cream glace is pronounced glas and is written without any accents. Glace is also not to be confused with a sauce, called a demi-glace; that is a base for many sauces and nothing to do with ice cream.

Ice cream on French menus:

Bombe au Grand Marnier -  A molded ice-cream dessert flavored with Grand Marnier.  The original bombe was a multi-layered frozen creation made in the shape of a ball, a round bomb, hence the name. Today’s bombes while still frozen may be shaped differently; a bombe should be filled with fruit and served with a sauce and hopefully will explode gently in your mouth, not in your face.

  

Coupe de Glace 2 boules (or 3 boules) aux choix - A bowl of ice cream with two or three scoops of your choosing.

   

Glace 2 Boules – Two scoops of  ice cream.

Green Tea and Azuki Ice-Cream

Photograph courtesy of Alpha

https://www.flickr.com/photos/avlxyz/3128041016/sizes/m/

  

Glace en Boules – Scoops or balls of ice-cream.

Glace 2 Boules

- Two scoops or balls of ice-cream.

   

Marchand de glace ambulant

A mobile ice cream vendor.

Photograph courtesy of Frédéric BISSON

https://www.flickr.com/photos/zigazou76/7503801486/sizes/m/

Glace à la Napolitaine - Ice Cream Neapolitan style; ice-cream made with layers of different flavored ice cream.

 

Glace Nélusko - Coffee ice-cream dessert with a praline center. A dish named after the hero Nélusko in the opera L'Africaine. This opera was the last work created by Giacomo Meyerbeer and written especially for the Paris opera house in 1865.

   

Go where the ice cream is.

Photograph courtesy of Martin Abegglen

https://www.flickr.com/photos/twicepix/4679638132/sizes/m/

   

Glaces Alcoolisées -  Ice cream dishes served with liquor. You may be offered a strawberry or other fruit flavored ice-cream made more interesting by adding a flavored eau-de–vie. That will, at least, warm the ice-cream up on the way down!

Un Cône de Glace - An ice-cream cone.

Glacé or Glacée – Iced, chilled, frozen, icy,  glazed

Pronounced glas or glasay.

 

The words glacé with its accent over the e makes clear, to the French, that this is not ice cream.  Glacé and glacée will indicate cold and frozen desserts and also cooked dishes that have a glaze.

Glacé and glacée on French menus:

Crème de Lentilles Glacée  -  A chilled cream of lentil soup.

   

Chilled cream with Marc of Gewurztraminer.

Crème glacée au Marc de Gewurztraminer

Photograph courtesy of Vasile Cotovanu

https://www.flickr.com/photos/vasile23/6077693424/sizes/m/

 

Compote Rouge Glacée -  A compote of red fruits, that will be berries and other red fruits, cooked and then allowed to cool and served cold and shining, probably from added sugar.

  

Gâteaux Glacée Cacao - A cake with a glazed chocolate icing.

   

French ice-coffee.

Photograph courtesy of Raphaël Labbé

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ulikleafar/2623965159/sizes/m/

Parfait Glacé a l'Absinthe  - An absinthe based cream mousse.

Pavé de Veau en Croûte de Thyme et Citron, Carottes glacées – A scallop of veal cooked inside a coating of thyme and lemon and served with glazed carrots.

   

Pear sorbet, meringue glacée, chocolate-caramelized cinnamon cream.

Photograph courtesy of Krista

https://www.flickr.com/photos/scaredykat/328174942/sizes/m/

Soufflé Glacé au Calvados  - A frozen souffle flavored with Calvados, the apple brandy.

   

Glacier - An ice-cream shop or ice-cream parlor.

Glaçon - An ice cube; glaçons is plural. (Glaçon is pronounced glason).

Connected posts:

  

Absinthe; the Original, Notorious Version and Absinthe Today; a Very Different Liquor.

 

Carottes - Carrots in French Cuisine.

 

Citron – The lemon; the fruit behind many of France’s culinary successes. Also the Citron Vert - Lime, the Cedrat – the Citron, the Combava – the kaffir lime and the Chadec - the Pomelo.

 

Escalope de Veau or Paillard de Veau. Veal in France II - A Veal Cutlet, Escalope, Escallop or Scallop.

 

Thyme in France. Thyme, Serpolet, Farigoule and Thym Citron, Lemon Thyme in France

 

Visiting a Cafe in France and the Story Behind Coffee

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016.

Visiting a Cafe in France and the Story Behind Coffee.

 

A single espresso coffee in a demi-tasse.
Photograph courtesy of studio tdes
www.flickr.com/photos/thedailyenglishshow/5612804236/
 
A French café is more than just the coffee and pastries it serves.

A successful French café offers minimally comfortable seating and a place where people may meet regularly, drink coffee, or relax and just let the world float by.

A café, in France.
Photograph by courtesy of mia!
www.flickr.com/photos/_mia/2584964985/

 
In the early evening.
Happy Hour sometimes comes to French cafés
Photograph by courtesy of Archibald Ballantine.
www.flickr.com/photos/johngevers/14004975/ 

The first coffee bean

Long before the first French café, there was the first grain de café, the first coffee bean. That first coffee bean originated on a small evergreen tree in Ethiopia.

Then, just to confuse me, I was told by people who really do know everything there is to know about coffee in the raw that the coffee bean is, in fact, a seed, not a bean.   What we call the coffee bean, in fact, grows inside a coffee cherry, and that makes it a seed. These learned coffee dealers and blenders also told me that you would not want to eat a coffee cherry.  So, we are left with the coffee seed. Despite that fact, I want to avoid confusion in this post, and so I will continue calling coffee seeds coffee beans.

Coffee Cherries on the evergreen coffee shrub.
Photograph courtesy of Foto76 through Freedigitalphotos.net.
 
The first coffee exporter

From Ethiopia, the beans, and the secrets of making the drink, were exported to Yemen. Yemen would then become the world's first international coffee exporter when she started selling the beans to Turkey. In Turkey, coffee quickly became the most popular national drink, and at that time, anyone who visited Turkey came home praising "Turkish Coffee."

Coffee came to Europe with the Turks when the Ottoman Empire invaded and occupied parts of Eastern and Western Europe. You may say that coffee took Europe by force of arms!            

France's first café and oldest café still in operating

Coffee came to France via Austria some years later. Then, according to the accepted tradition, the first French café was opened, in Paris, by two Armenian brothers, Pascal and Grégoire Alep, probably in 1661. The oldest French café still open in France is the Café Le Procope, also in Paris; it opened in 1686. Today Le Procope is no longer a traditional café; today, it is a smart restaurant and not an inexpensive one. Nevertheless, Café Le Procope offers history, excellent food, including a fresh seafood bar, and of course, excellent coffee.                        

The outside of Le Procope today.
Photograph Courtesy of Serge Melk
www.flickr.com/photos/sergemelki/3364276074/

The original owner of Le Procope was an Italian immigrant from Palermo, Sicily, Francesco Procopio; unfortunately, Francesco was not available for an interview the last time I visited.  Le Procope’s traditions include the claim to have introduced ice-cream to France.

            

The inside of Le Procope today
Photograph by courtesy of Michael Rys
www.flickr.com/photos/mrys/176993289/
                                
Having a coffee in Le Procope today.

If you visit Le Procope today when all you want is a coffee and an ice cream, along with a feeling of history, then do so outside their regular lunch and dinner hours. At lunch and dinner, every table in Le Procope is taken. Later, while you sip your coffee, consider that you may well be sitting at the same spot where in the past sat John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, Thomas Pain, Benjamin Franklin, Voltaire, Danton, Marat, or possibly Robespierre. That is real coffee history.

The oil in the bean is far more important than the roast.           

The packaging of most branded coffees will tell you the type of roast but little else; however, the amount of oil in the bean coffee affects the taste far more than the roast. The perfect roast cannot produce flavor from dry, oil-less beans. For those who will visit France and Italy on the same European trip, you may taste the difference in their coffees. The French use the oiliest beans, followed by the Italians.   

     

Grains de Café, Coffee Beans.

Photograph courtesy of Apple’s Eyes Studio through Freedigtalphotos.net.

                                        

The two beans that fight for your business. 

Behind the scenes battling for market share are two coffee beans, the Robusta and the Arabica, and their various hybrid family members. The Arabica has 50% less caffeine and is considered the best for flavor, but it is much more expensive, and so nearly all coffees on the market are blends of the two beans.

Inside a coffee importer’s warehouses, there are highly trained and highly paid coffee blenders; these employees, like the blenders in the great Champagne and Cognac Houses, have unique taste and olfactory taste buds. For their most valuable customers, the café and restaurant industry, they prepare special blends for each customer. After blending and roasting, these blends will have a taste and smell that does not vary from batch to batch, month to month or year to year.

The barista, the most important individual in the cafe.

In the best French cafés, the espresso coffee machine will be under the control of a maître de barista, a master operator of an industrial espresso machine. The title barista comes from the Italian, as the Italians invented the espresso coffee machines, they also own the name. A barista has nothing to do with a British attorney, a barrister!  Coffee gourmets will tell you that only an expert barista can dispense a perfect cup of coffee every time. The correct heat of the water, the proper water pressure, and the correct packing of the coffee for the espresso machine complete the work of a maître de barista. The makers of the various espresso coffee machines run training courses for baristas. To make the perfect cup of coffee, the barista has to be trained like any other professional.

                              My own coffee production                                   

I am not an expert barista, but I have owned, at various times, filter coffee machines, percolators, and at least ten different espresso coffee machines. Today, balancing taste with convenience, I make a reasonably good coffee at home using a French coffee press.  For the true café aficionados, my coffee may not be good enough to make the top grade, but they are kind enough to remain silent when they are in my home. I have tried similar coffees with other machines in the homes of friends who use other coffee brands, and most of those coffees have also been excellent.

A cappuccino.
Photograph Courtesy of Akeeris though Freedigitalphotos.net.
 
         How the French make coffee at home.                

In French homes, a cafetière, a French coffee press, was always the most popular method for making the morning café au lait. Filter coffee machines are sold in France, but they are not very popular, and in French cafés and restaurants, espresso coffee rules. Many French homes that do not use a French coffee press use a coffee percolator; however, the pressurized Nespresso-style machines gain ground all the time.     

 

A cafetière, a French coffee press.
N.B. The cafetière, despite its French and English names, is, like the Espresso machine, an Italian invention.
Photograph courtesy of Joe King
www.flickr.com/photos/jking89/4573304032/
 
 
To order coffee in a French café click on this post:
Ordering Coffee in France, The A - Z of Ordering Coffee in France.
 

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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2012, 2016, 2021

 

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