Behind the French Menu gives a tasty background to French cuisine, French dishes, how they are made and how they should be served. Where there is a story behind a dish's creation and that story may aid the diner's enjoyment then that will also be included. Bon appétit!
Showing posts with label terroir. Show all posts
Showing posts with label terroir. Show all posts
Bœuf Fin Gras du Mézenc AOP. The Finest Beef in France and Only on French Menus Between February and Early June.
from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Finely marbled beef.
www.flickr.com/photos/avlxyz/4450266254/
The Fin Gras du Mézenc cattle are raised
on the Mézenc Massif that runs through the departments of Ardèche and
Haute-Loire in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes in France’s mountainous Massif Central.
Here, the pastures are over 1,100 meters high and the rich grasses, upon which
the cattle graze for over six months a year, include over forty different herbs
and mountain flowers.
These AOP cattle have
finely marbled beef and will only be on the menu between February and early
June. The cognoscenti watch specific restaurants that every year will have this
beef on their menus with their calendars in hand. Even in Paris and Lyon,
France’s two capitals of fine-dining, relatively few French diners have the
opportunity to taste this remarkable beef. Less than 800 head of cattle reach
the market every year, and France has a population of over 65,000,000.
This beef makes excellent steaks, but the real flavor
and texture of this beef is best tasted in a Carpaccio or a Fin Gras du Mézenc
Steak Tartar, as well as in stews and roasts. The steaks will be excellent, but
the unique taste of beef from the Fin Gras du Mézenc is best appreciated when
its taste and texture may be noted without grill or frying flavors.
Hikers with a farmer and his calf in Mézenc
Photograph courtesy of Peter Lorre.
www.flickr.com/photos/weddingwithedouard/1073177953/
On a few select menus between February
and early June:
Belles Tranches de Bœuf AOC Fin Gras du Mézenc Justes Marinées et
Condiments d’une Béarnaise – Beautiful slices of Fin Gras du Mézenc AOC beef lightly
marinated and served with a Sauce
Béarnaise. This dish is a Fin Gras du Mézenc take on a Carpaccio.
Pièce
de Bœuf Fin Gras du Mézenc Rôti à la Plancha
et Purée aux Cèpes – A rump steak, fried-grilled on a plancha accompanied
by mashed potatoes with porcini mushrooms.
A Pièce
de Bœuf might seem to translate as a Piece of Beef which doesn’t inspire,
but there are four unique French cuts from the rump that may be called a Pièce de Bœuf; cuts that
are the very best but usually considered too much work and preparation for the
UK and North American butchers.
A plancha, which was initially a Basque cooking tool, is a solid,
thick, flat sheet, that achieves a taste somewhere between grilling and frying.
The Basques claim ownership of the plancha, as do the Spanish. The modern
plancha may look like the flat cooking plate of a fast-food restaurant, but
look again carefully, it has three times the thickness and produces a very even
heat.
Bourguignon
de Boeuf "Fin Gras du Mézenc" AOP - A beef Bourguignonne made with the beef from the Fin Gras du
Mézenc AOC. Bœuf Bourguignonne is the most famous beef stew of
Burgundy and the beef from Fin Gras du Mézenc is especially noted for the taste
given to these types of dishes. In this dish, the chef is matching burgundy red
wine with the Fin Gras du Mézenc.
Bœuf Bourguignonne
www.flickr.com/photos/adactio/16627591978/
Tartare Fin
Gras du Mézenc de en Rouleau, Croquette de Joues et Queues
de Bœuf au Sésame – A steak
tartar from the Fin
Gras du Mézenc rolled and served alongside fried croquets made using the meat
from the beef cheeks and tail
flavored with sesame.
Steak Tartar
www.flickr.com/photos/nwongpr/6999679796/
Côte
de Boeuf de Fin Gras du Mézenc, Simplement Poêlée, Jus Corsé à la Syrah (pour deux personnes) - A bone-in beef
rib simply fried in a jus corsé, the natural cooking juices, flavored with a
Syrah red wine. A jus corsé is made with the natural cooking juices and here
the Syrah red wine flavors this sauce. Syrah is best known outside France as
Shiraz. This serving is for a minimum of two diners as a beef rib is a very
large portion.
Here in the Mézenc Massif that one may
begin to understand the importance of the French concept of Terroir. Terroir indicates a single location where land
and climate combine to provide consistently superior and unique food products,
wines, and as in this case, the finest beef. Here, the contribution of nurture
combined with nature clearly shows the difference as the other French AOP
cattle are specific breeds, and the Fin Gras du Mézenc is not. They are mixed
herds, and their taste can only be down to Terroir.
Before being taken to market, these
animals must have passed two summers freely grazing on the Mézenc Massif above
1,100 meters. When they are brought down for the winter, they may only be fed
hay that was grown in the same pastures where they grazed in the summer. Also
permitted in winter are limited amounts of cereal and other naturally grown
products
Mont Mézenc, 1754
meters
and La Grosse Roche, Haute-Loire.
www.flickr.com/photos/96064256@N04/35865172485/
The cattle are only sent to market from
February through June, and that means that the youngest animals go to market at
24 months, while most are over 30 months. As with all AOC cattle, they must be
raised free of antibiotics and growth hormones and the calves raised by their
mothers.
How do you know the
beef really is the Fin Gras du Mézenc?
The Fin Gras du Mézenc AOP also has
traceability, which prevents other cattle from being sold under this valuable
name. All animals raised for sale will have a piece of cartilage taken from
their ears, and that allows a DNA test to made at any time in the marketing of
the beef. Now high tech tests can
connect the meat on your plate to the farmer who raised the beef.
The Mézenc Massif set with France’s
mountainous Massif Central is very sparsely populated; for the visitor, this
area offers a view of a distinctly different France well away from the
crowds. Even in the winter, when the
Massif has cross-country and some downhill skiing, those who visit are the
sports lovers who want to get away from the crowds in the most popular skiing
areas. In the summer, here is rock climbing, hiking, fishing, and mountain
biking.
Winter in the Mézenc Massif
The Fête du Fin Gras
du Mézenc
The first weekend of June is the Fête du
Fin Gras du Mézenc AOP, the feast of the Fin Gras du Mézenc AOC. Then during the fete, the villages grow from
a few hundred inhabitants to 4,000 and more. All the visitors will have come to
watch parades of the cattle along with sales of other farm-made products that
include local cheeses, conserves, honey, and more. Then, of course, the festive
dinners based on the Fin Gras du Mézenc AOC are the main attractions. The villages in the départements of Ardèche
and Haute-Loire alternately divide the responsibilities for the fete.
Farmer with a young bull he is bringing to the fete.
The French government tourist office will have
the names of the villages hosting next year’s fete as will the website of the
Fin Gras du Mézenc AOC beef. The website
is in French but easily understood using the Bing, Google, and other translate apps
Parade in the Fête du Fin Gras du Mézenc
Alpine fennel
if you are in the area of the small
village of Chaudeyrolles at any
time of the year, in the Haute-Loire, visit their Maison du Fin Gras du
Mézenc AOP; their information center for this fine cattle. Here,
they will tell you all about their cattle, emphasizing their traditional
methods of farming, show videos, and also offer recipes; the information center
also sell jars of Sel de Cistre, a salt made from the plant called the Cerfeuil
des Alpes or Fenouil de Montane, Alpine fennel. This wild herb, according to
the locals, adds tremendous flavor to any steak.
Alpine Fennel
Cerfeuil des Alpes, Cittern, Fenouil de
Montagne or Fenouil de Alpe - Alpine
fennel or baldmoney in the languages of
France’s neighbors:
(Catalan – fonoll), (German - bärwurz), (Italian
- finocchiella or finocchio montano),
(Spanish - eneldo ursino). (Latin - meum athamanticum).
--------------------------------
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2013, 2016, 2019
--------------------------------
Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
Just add the word, words, or phrase that
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names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles
that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and
explanations.
Connected Posts:
The Plancha or Planxa in French Cuisine. The Plancha on French
Menus.
The Cèpe Grows Wild in France. The Cepe
is the French Porcini Mushroom. The Mushrooms Of France III.
Chablis; One of France's Finest White Wines and Chablis the Town.
from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Chablis Grand Cru.
Photograph courtesy of Dale Cruse.
www.flickr.com/photos/dalecruse/8706768713/
Chablis AOP is a dry, crisp, white wine
produced from Chardonnay grapes around the town of Chablis in the department of
Yonne, Burgundy that since 1-1-2016 is part of the super region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté.
The town of Chablis, despite its famous
name and history, is still a small French town; albeit an exceptionally pretty
one. If you are driving to Chablis,
remember it is a small town. You may quickly drive through the town and be back
out among the grapevines before you realize you have exited the town. We did
that! We, of course, did turn around and
drive back. In the town center, we found an inviting looking restaurant to
sample the local cuisine, and, again, of course, to order a bottle of Chablis.
The entrance to Chablis
www.flickr.com/photos/jamesonfink/13187892615/
Despite its size, Chablis and its
immediate area have quite a number of hotels, B & Bs, restaurants, and, of
course, wine shops. You may also choose to stay in the towns of Avallone or
Auxerre; both are about 20 km (12 miles) from Chablis. We stayed in an excellent hotel in Avallone.
The hotel is built on the sight of a post house where Napoleon I had once
watered his horse! Auxerre has many more
hotels, but none whose claim to fame competes with Napoleon and his horse.
Vineyards in Chablis
In books on pairing wines, Chablis has
always been one of the wines recommended to accompany oysters. (The
other favored choices are Muscadet, which comes from the area close to the city
of Nantes in the Pay du Loire, and, of course,
Champagne).
Chablis and oysters are an interesting coincidence. The vineyards around
Chablis are all set above an ancient limestone landmass with many fossilized
oysters. Those old oysters must have spread the word, and so the wheel of life
goes on.
Choosing a Chablis
French Chablis is very different from
most of the New World versions I have tried. However, I am not an educated wine
maven, and with hundreds of producers and four appellations when we arrived in
Chablis, I needed help. Luckily, in the
restaurant we had chosen, there was a friendly and knowledgeable sommelier, and
I had an up-to-date book in French wines. We discussed our interest in Chablis
along with our budget. The sommelier suggested a reasonably priced wine that
turned out to be fabulous. This was a Chablis from one of the lower Chablis
appellations, but good sommeliers know a great deal more than just the names,
the price, and appellations. More about
Chablis appellations and the information they contribute later. While we were
enjoying our lunch and our wine we overheard the couple on the table next to us
discussing their dissatisfaction with a much more expensive Chablis. They had chosen a top of the line Chablis
from the wine-list, it had been their own choice. As with other wines, so with Chablis, the
price does not guarantee any more than how much you will pay. More about the
different Chablis Crus and grades toward the end of this post.
Chablis on French menus:
Bottle and glass of
Chablis
www.flickr.com/photos/x1brett/46088122924/
Filet de Raie au Chablis – Skate, the fish, sautéed with Chablis. In the UK, skate
is mostly seen when deep-fried in batter and sold in fish and chip shops.
However, in France, skate will be served in the finest restaurants. In French
kitchens skate be may be baked, poached or sautéed, but never deep-fried.
Dishes with skate will be served hot with a butter or wine sauce, as skate
tends to jell when cold.
Poire au Vin de Chablis - Pears cooked in Chablis.
Chablis vineyards
www.flickr.com/photos/lreivilo/2741453629/
Sauté de Queues d'Écrevisses, Brunoise de Petits Légumes au Chablis - Crayfish tails sautéed with Chablis and served
with finely cut young vegetables.
Brunoise is one of the important sizes in the French world of chopped
fruits and vegetables, it denotes a cut about 2 mm (0.08”) thick.
Chablis has a number of unique local
dishes that may also be on your menu. They include Jambon Chablis, ham cooked
in Chablis, and a locally made Andouillette AAAAA sausage.
N.B.: When a sommelier or a wine-list
only offer wines that are above your budget, then that is the time to choose a
house wine. Most French restaurants, outside of some of the more
exclusive, have house wines that have
been chosen with their regular diners in mind.
House wines will be approved by the sommelier and in smaller restaurants
by the owner and the chef; the wine will be priced to keep the regulars
returning.
French Chablis is made from very close to
100% French Chardonnay grape with a taste that is quite different from most New
World Chardonnays that I have tried. Maybe it is the barrels, maybe its
science, maybe it is the terroir. (Worry not, I will not get into terroir
here). Whatever the reason, French
Chablis is different from other French wines made with Chardonnay grapes.
The town of Chablis and some twelve
villages linked to her have festivals and fetes almost every month of the year.
These celebrations are not only about the Chablis wines, though a sizeable
number are. The festivities include
concerts, artist’s festivals and more.
The Sereign River flows through Chablis
Finding the dates of
Chablis linked festivals and fetes.
You may check the dates and places of
wine and food celebrations throughout France when still in your home country
through the local French Government Tourist Office. For Chablis tourism the
town’s visitor information website is www.chablis.net.
If you are already in Chablis, the tourism information office is on the
town’s main street: 1 Rue du Maréchal de
Lattre de Tassigny.
Ask the Chablis tourist information
office for a map of the town and a map of their Chablis Route des Vins, their Chablis wine road. Then request information on the town’s and
surrounding communities’ celebrations and farmers’ markets. With all that information, you have the
perfect way to explore the area, including stopping off for wine tastings and
joining in the celebrations that coincide with your visit. The Chablis Route des Vins also passes quite
a number of restaurants; choose one to enjoy lunch or dinner.
The most important wine fete in Chablis
itself is the Fête des Vins de Chablis, the fete of Chablis wines. This fete it
is held on the fourth Saturday and Sunday in October. Additionally, the entire department of Yonne,
which includes Chablis, celebrates its many different wines on the first
Saturday in May. The town of Chablis, of course, will be doing its part.
Seeing the town of
Chablis
Inside Chablis, you do not need a car.
Just park and walk around the town. Walk
along streets that were laid down in the late middle ages with some of the
original houses remaining. Visit its two
churches, one of which dates back to the twelfth century the other to the 18th.
Both churches were rebuilt in the 19th century. There is also a 12th-century
synagogue that was rebuilt some ten years ago.
There is a farmers’ market in Chablis
every Sunday morning. Given a bright
summer’s day, you may want to pass on a traditional restaurant lunch and buy a
chilled bottle of Chablis, a baguette and some of Burgundy’s magnificent
cheeses. Find a road that takes you to the banks of the River Sereign that runs
through the town and find a place for a picnic; enjoy.
Hiking in Chablis,
If you enjoy hiking, then consider
joining one of the hikes that are organized by the Chablis hikers association,
the Association des Sentiers Chablisiens
The association organizes
hikes in the country around
Chablis twice a week for one and a half
to two hours. Their French language website is:
Google and Bing
translate translate the French very clearly.
Chablis
appellations.
Four Chablis appellations set the
boundaries of the different Chablis wines. The Chablis Appellations were
created to differentiate the quality of the Chablis wines produced in each
area. Like the rest of France’s
appellations and crus, they were set in 1935. They have been part of French law
in 1946. However, since 1946, not one single Chablis wine, produced by any Chablis
vintner, has had its quality grading changed! None are officially better or
worse?
There are four Chablis appellations:
Appellation Chablis Grand Cru Contrôlée -
Considered the very, very best of all the Chablis wines.
Appellation Chablis Premier Cru Contrôlée - Nearly the very best.
Aging bottles of Chablis
Appellation Chablis Contrôlée - A
snippet below the nearly the very best.
Appellation Petit Chablis Contrôlée Chablis - A little below the one
below the nearly the very best.
Petit Chablis
www.flickr.com/photos/dalecruse/9201791579/
I have listed these appellations, tongue
in cheek, as I certainly do not know why a single producer's wine has not been
recognized for having improved or worsened in over 70 years! However, the wine mavens know and the caves,
the wine stores know, and their prices reflect the value. I also know that if
you see a Chablis Grand Cru at a low price, leave it! There is no good top of the line Chablis
wines at a discount price.
Other great white wines from Burgundy are
also made with 100% Chardonnay grapes. These other wines have their own names
and appellations. Despite having the same grape in the bottle, these other
wines also have, by the different soils, local micro-climates, magic, science
or terroir have different tastes. These additional
100% Chardonnay wines include famous names like Pouilly-Fuissé AOP,
Chassagne-Montrachet, AOP, Corton-Charlemagne AOP, Meursault AOP, Montrachet
AOP, and many others.
For more on all the wines from Burgundy
see the website:
-----------------------
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2011, 2012, 2015, 2019.
---------------------------
Searching for the
meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
Just add the word, words, or phrase that
you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best
when including the inverted commas), and search with Google or
Bing, Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words,
names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles
that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.
------------------------
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