French National Holidays, their Jours Fériés, and More. A Short Guide.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   
Jour de l'An, New Year’s Celebrations.
     
France has 11 Jours Fériés, National Holidays
  
You need to know the French holidays when planning your trip. You may join in the celebrations national and local carnivals but check the dates as many move around every year, and many museums and other attractions can be closed on national and local holidays; the same goes for restaurants.

In addition to the National Holidays noted below there are many other celebrations that include Halloween, Carnival, Valentine’s Day, etc.. Visitors are welcome at all the French Celebrations, but you need to know the French holidays when planning your trip!  The UK and the USA, and most other countries have French Government Tourist Offices that you may visit or contact for the price of a local call. Use the internet and if you have already arrived your hotel or Air BnB host or hostess may help with local information.

N.B. France has a Government Tourist Information Office in practically every town and village of historical or touristic interest. They will give you maps of wine routes and cheese roads etc. They will also provide information on fetes, concerts, and other celebrations in the towns and villages around. These offices also have the dates and addresses for farmers' markets round about. Nevertheless, many of the smaller tourist information offices close for a one and a half-hour lunch break.  Check ahead otherwise you may miss a fabulous wine celebration or a fete for the local pink garlic, fresh sardines, cheeses or sausages. 
  
The 11 French National Holidays begin on the night of

the 31st of December and the first day of January:
     
Jour de l'An or Le Nouvel An - New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day. 
  
  Expect fireworks, parties, special menus, and champagne on many menus on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.  Many museums are closed.

Lundi de Pâques
Easter Monday:
  
   Today Easter Monday is a secularized holiday that, however, the day still follows the lunar dates of the Protestant and Catholic traditions.  Watch out for special menus, cakes and of course Easter eggs.

Fête du Travail or Fête du Premier Mai, May 1 –  
Labor Day:   
            
   The 1st of May in France closes more public places than any other country in Europe except Italy. The only National Tourist site that I know that remains open in Paris on May 1 is the Eifel Tower!  Nevertheless, most private museums are open and so are churches and the boats on the Seine.
                                   
Victoire, Fête de la Victoire 1945 or Fête du Huitième, 8 May -
The celebration of the end of WWII:
  
   There are memorial assemblies at war cemeteries and at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Arc de Triomphe.  For those too young to remember that war, and those who have no family members who were hurt or killed in any war this is, for many, just another paid holiday.
    
Arc de Triomphe

www.flickr.com/photos/oatsy40/15350284057/
   
Ascension, L'Ascension or Fête de la Ascension
Ascension Day:      
     
    A secularized Christian Holiday.  The Ascension Day holiday is held 40 days after Easter, 39 days after Easter Sunday. The dates change every year following lunar calendar of the Protestant and Catholic tradition.  Some restaurants may have special menus.
     
Pentecôte or Lundi de Pentecôte
Whit Monday:
                
    Pentecost is another secularized Christian holiday.  The holiday is held 49 days after Easter Monday. In France in 2005 this holiday became a source of discord; then the French Government suggested making the holiday a day where government employees worked but donated their pay to the sick and elderly. Somehow that didn’t work out! 
          
    Pentecost is the Greek name for the Jewish holiday of Shavuot that commemorates the giving of the law on Mount Sinai. This holiday was adopted by the early Christians to mark the descent of the Holy Spirit onto the Twelve Disciples.
    
Fête Nationale - Le Quatorze Juillet -
Bastille Day, July 14:    

    Bastille Day represents the beginning of the French revolution. It is called "Le Quatorze Juillet" in French and is also looked forward to, by many, today, as the beginning of four weeks of uninterrupted summer vacation.  This holiday celebrates the storming of the Bastille – The Parisian prison on the 14 of July 1789. Hence Le Quatorze Juillet, Bastille Day.  The 14th of July 1789 is considered, by most, as the starting date for the French revolution. It matters little that, at the time, the Bastille was stormed it held only eight prisoners all of whom were aristocrats and included one lunatic.  The anniversary of Bastille day on the 14th of July may be called Bastille Day in English but in France use French name “Le Quatorze Juillet”. Le Quatorze Juillet is France’s Fête Nationale, its National Day.
   
   For the tourist, from outside France, the four to six weeks following the 14th of July is one of the best times to find a parking place in the cities. Outside of the cities, however, those 4 to 6 weeks is the worst time to look for a vacation rental. On the 14th of July, the French leave the cities in droves for their summer holidays, and they will either have moved to their own holiday home, rented a vacation home or made reservations for local hotels long before then.  
  

14th July, Bastille Day. Le Quatorze Juillet.
  
    Of the Bastille Prison itself, there is no a trace; however, the site remains one of Paris’s most famous squares, La Place de la Bastille. Today that square is, apart from its history, more importantly, home to Paris’s second and largest, and newest opera house, the Opéra Bastille; built-in 1989 it holds 2,700 people in one hall.

    Despite the importance of Le Quatorze Juillet, the 14th of July, the French revolution did not, in fact, begin on that date. The French revolution began at the Chateau of Versailles, on June 20th, 1789. Still, tradition is tradition. Similarities may be Seen in the USA where the Congress voted for independence on the 2nd of July; however, the 4th of July, the date the final Declaration was read out is the USA Independence Day.
   
Assomption or Fete de l'Assomption - 
Assumption Day, 15th of August:
    
    Assumption Day is another secularized Christian holiday.  For the visitor, most restaurants and places of tourist interest keep to their regular schedules.  The Christian tradition the date commemorates the acceptance of Mary, the Mother of Jesus Christ, into Heaven. 
  
Toussaint
All Saints Day, or All Hallows, November 1:  
       
    All Saints Day was created by the French Pope Urban I (1261-64) as a day of celebration for all those Saints who may have been unintentionally ignored during the rest of the year. it is another secularized Christian Holyday. For many French citizens this is the day after Halloween which itself is a new and imported holiday. For more about France and Halloween see further down this post.
  

Toussaint - All Saints Day,
Photograph courtesy of claire poisson
www.flickr.com/photos/clarapeix/4464366607/
     
Armistice, Jour d'Armistice
Armistice Day 1918; November 11.  
   
   The date celebrates the end of WWI,  Tourist attractions and restaurants mostly operate with their regular schedules.  
        
Fête de Noël or Fête Noël
Christmas day; December 25. 
      
   In the regions of Alsace and Lorraine the 26 of December are also National Holidays; elsewhere, in France, the 26th of December is a regular workday.
         
   In addition to having 11 national holidays, many towns and villages have their own local unpaid holidays usually held over a weekend. These local celebrations may originally have had historical, agricultural or religious backgrounds and now these festivals are mostly celebrating local produce, vegetables, fish, herbs, wines, cheeses, sausages and more; everyone has a good time while invigorating the local economy.  Check for events 10 km (6 miles) to 20 km (13 miles)  around the area or areas you will be visiting; with luck you may have arrived in time for the local black pudding festival, a garlic fete, a sardine happening, the tasting of a young new wine or the first day of the asparagus season.
       
The following are not National Holidays, but you should still expect parties and special restaurant menus:
   
Epiphany or La Fête des Rois - 
Epiphany or the feast of the three kings. The first Sunday after January 1:

.   Epiphany for most is an unofficial secularized holiday, and for restaurants, it is another chance to create special menus. In the north of France mainly in private homes, a traditional cake, the Galette des Rois, the King’s pancake or wafer; will be divided amongst the guests and inside one portion will be a small figurine or some other surprise.  In Provence there is a similar tradition, they have their own cake called the Gâteau des Rois, the King’s Cake.  The recipes of these cakes are supposed to be traditional, but they seem to vary a great deal. These cakes may be on many restaurant menus from Christmas and on through January.
   
 Carnaval – 
Carnival and Mardi Gras. 

    The dates of most French Carnival celebrations are no longer tied to the original Christian dates, but they are still very important celebrations for tourists and locals. Some celebrations are held over a two-day weekend and the most famous, the  Carnaval de Nice is held over a two-week period in February and or March.
  
The Nice Carnaval.
   
The Carnaval de Nice English language website:
  

Fêtés St-Valentin or the Fête des Amoureux - 
Valentines Day.14 February:
  
    Not a traditional a French holiday at all, and like Halloween a relatively recent import; but, the Fêtés St-Valentin, the Fête des Amoureux, now a big day with cards, gifts, flowers, chocolates, cakes shaped like hearts and special menus in many restaurants.
  
 
Valentines Day
Photograph courtesy of Lucie Provencher
www.flickr.com/photos/gattou/3276686095/
              
Fête des Mères or Fête des Mamans – 
Mother’s day; the last Sunday in May.
 
Fêtes de Pères or Fêtes de Papas – 
Father’s day; the third Sunday in June.
      
Solstice d'Été   - 
The summer solstice, 21st June except on leap years.  
  
   Druid celebrations in Brittany and some Christian-based celebrations in Provence.

Halloween October 31.
  
    Halloween is not a traditional French Holiday, despite that, today Halloween is enjoyed, and celebrated in France, with thanks to the USA. Halloween, however, is a work day and school day; so celebrations will be in the evening and restaurants will have special menus.       


Halloween; a Successful American Import.
Photograph by Stuart Miles.


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Rognons - Kidneys on French menus.

Rognons - Kidneys on French menus

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com


 


 Rognons de Veau en Sauce aux Baies de Genièvre
Veal Kidneys in Juniper Berry Sauce.
by Odette Pascal 
Photograph and recipe courtesy of Marie Claire, Cuisine et vins

 

Kidneys, rognons, are French restaurant favorites.  

The delicate taste and pleasant texture of rognons put them on menus all over France.  Lamb and veal kidneys, like sweetbreads, require little specialized cooking, and they will be on menus from corner bistros to Michelin-starred restaurants.

The stronger-tasting beef, goat, and pig’s kidneys will not be on the menu in the city, but in country restaurants, they will be prepared as traditional slow-cooked stews or as part of a meat pie.  Beef kidneys may be seen on traditional UK menus as part of that great British dish, steak and kidney pie.


A British Steak and Kidney Pie.
Photograph courtesy of Paul Townsend
www.flickr.com/photos/brizzlebornandbred/39553993114/

 

Historically, internal organs in the USA and the UK were the cheaper cuts. As the standard of living rose, outside France, internal organ dishes became associated with low-income groups.  In France, it is the taste that counts, and the tasty veal and lamb kidneys and other cuts have remained on the menus in restaurants from the bistro on the corner to restaurants with Michelin stars. You cannot do to badly if you follow the French; they eat very well and they cook very well.

               

Kidneys on French menus:

 

Fricassée de Rognons de Veau aux Pleurotes -  A veal kidney stew with oyster mushrooms. 

Fricassées:  A cooking technique somewhere between a sauté and a stew where the ingredients are not browned. Fricassées produce tender meat in a rich, creamy, often white sauce. The original fricassées were only made with chicken; their popularity led to fricassées being made with veal, other poultry, kidneys, or shellfish, and occasionally lamb or rabbit. When following the original recipe and avoiding browning, white wine is used, and crème fraîche may be added at the end. Vegetables may be included in the stew, or, like oyster mushrooms, added shortly before serving.

Pleurotes: Oyster mushrooms.  The oyster mushroom is very popular and at least five members of the family are cultivated in France, and will be on many menus. These family members come in at least five colors, making them popular not only for their taste but also for their looks.

The different strains of these mushrooms vary in texture from very soft to very chewy. Their association with oysters comes from the looks of several family members and not from any oyster taste or texture.  In the kitchen, oyster mushrooms are usually added at the last stage of cooking as they cook quickly and, if left, may cook down to virtually nothing; for that reason, they are often used in combination with other mushrooms. Oyster mushrooms cooked for longer will be part of a sauce.

   

La Cocotte de Rognons de Veau à la Bordelaise, Petits Oignons, Lardons et Champignons - A casserole of veal kidneys prepared in the manner of Bordeaux, accompanied by baby onions, lardons, bacon pieces, and button mushrooms. The wine used in this dish will obviously be a Bordeaux red.

à la Bordelaise: In the manner of Bordeaux.  The city of Bordeaux flourished alongside the reputation of its wines. So expect many (but not all) of the dishes à la Bordelaise to include Bordeaux wines as this one does. 

Lardons - Small cubes of fatty bacon and very much a French kitchen essential. Lardons may be salted or smoked, depending on the taste required and will be used to flavor many different dishes. Lardons can be stuffed inside a roast chicken, added to a stew for flavor, fried until crispy, and added cold to a salad.

 

Bordeaux.

 

A pivotal moment arrived in 1152 when Eléonore of Aquitaine, the former Queen of France, married Prince Henry Plantagenet of England. By 1154, the two were King and Queen of England and lay claim to nearly half of France, setting the stage for hundreds of years of French-English wars.  Nevertheless, for the next three centuries, Bordeaux's significance soared, primarily due to its thriving wine trade with England, where consumption far outstripped that of France. Now the wines labeled Bordeaux AOP represent 25% of all of France's AOP wines, and the beautiful old city of Bordeaux is second only to Paris in the number of heritage buildings.

Experts attribute the region's great wines to the immense diversity and quality to the region's varied soil and numerous micro-climates, which allow for the creation of exceptional and distinct wines within relatively small areas. The wines of Bordeaux have always been looked up to by vintners globally; even the shape of the Bordeaux wine bottles is used in every wine-growing region in the world.

 

Visiting Bordeaux's Châteaux and Buying Wine

 

With over 6,000 different Châteaux in Bordeaux, quite a number may be visited, and the local Tourist Information Office will happily provide details. When it comes to purchasing wine, an up-to-date pocket or digital wine guide or the advice of a true expert is essential in choosing vintages and châteaux; an attractive label is simply not enough! Be wary of low-priced four-year-old or older Bordeaux wines in French supermarkets or wine shops. Just as there are no free lunches, there are no cheap and good old Bordeaux wines. The professionals and knowledgeable locals will have snapped up all the bargains long before you or I arrive.

 

Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2001

Photograph courtesy of @ccfoodtravel

https://www.flickr.com/photos/cumidanciki/5943331080/

 

Choosing among Bordeaux's Appellations

 

The Bordeaux vineyards boast, I believe, 57 different AOP appellations, meaning 57 distinct wines. Thankfully, restaurant wine lists don't overwhelm you with 57 separate sections for Bordeaux wines along with their 6,000 chateaux. Instead, they typically group Bordeaux wines based on their growing regions, wine types, and, of course, the restaurant's current stock.  If you are lucky a good wine list may offer 22 different red Bordeaux wines; and if you are unlucky, you won’t know any names of the chateaux or the good years that fit your budget.  That’s why you need that pocket wine guide.

 

Rognons de Veau de Lait, Champignons et Oignons, Sauce Dijonnaise, Légumes, Frites – Kidneys from milk-fed veal prepared with button mushrooms and onions served with a Dijon flavored mustard sauce and accompanied by French fries. 

Sauce Dijonnaise: A Dijon mustard accented sauce.  The earliest cookbook authors with published recipes for mustard were the Greeks and the Romans. They have left us recipes, including some that are not too different from those we use today; the Romans also gave us the name mustard. The Romans mixed newly pressed grape juice, called mustum, with spices that included mustard seeds to make mustard. This hot sauce was called mustum ardens, mustarden for short, and from mustarden came the French word word moutarde and the English word mustard. (Still today, in English, freshly pressed grape juice is called must).

 

Dijon Mustard

 

When, in 52 BCE and later, the Romans colonized France, they already knew they had to bring all the requirements for a Rome away from Rome. More trees, plants, vegetables, amphitheaters, and sauces, etc.

The Romans brought mustard seeds to Burgundy and Dijon was strategically located along their major trade routes. By the Middle Ages, yellow mustard plants covered the fields outside Dijon from April through June.

Today, Dijon is a city with over 150,000 inhabitants.  Nevertheless, if you are visiting, you will not notice its size.  The center of the town is walkable, and the center still has many houses from the Middle Ages.  In 1937 Moutarde de Dijon was granted an AOC, which protects the way and the place where the mustard is made.  However Dijon mustard in no longer made in the city in commercial quantities, the manufacturers moved to places where the land was cheaper.  Also, to my surprise, I discovered that over 90% of all brown mustard seeds used in French mustards are imported from Canada, how the world turns?

                               

Rognonnade de Veau aux Champignons, Sauce Madère – A veal loin chop with part of the kidneys attached, prepared with button mushrooms and served with a Madeira wine sauce.

Rognonnade: A traditional French kidney dish where the veal kidneys are served together with part of a veal steak.  In the USA, I was told this is called a kidney chop, but as far as I have seen, it doesn't make today's steakhouse menus.

Madeira: A smooth, fragrant, and opulent fortified wine with an alcohol content of between 18 and 21 percent. The wine comes from the Portuguese Madeira Islands in the North Atlantic. 

Fortified wines are made by adding an eau-de-vie, a young grape alcohol, to the wine in the barrels, thereby ending the fermentation before it is naturally completed. This process controls the amount of alcohol in the wine and the level of sweetness.

Verdelho, a white wine Madeira grape, makes a golden, semi-dry wine, and in France, this wine and the slightly sweeter Bual Madeira wine are the Madeira wines most chefs choose for Sauce Madeira.

 


Rognonnade de Veau aux Legumes Nouveaux
Veal kidney chop (the kidney and part of the loin) and early vegetables.
Photograph and recipe courtesy of Recettesmania.

 

Rognons d'Agneau, Grillés au Bacon, Gratin Dauphinois et Légumes de Provence – Lamb kidneys grilled with bacon and served with Gratin Dauphinois.

Gratin Dauphinois – Baked, sliced potatoes cooked in milk and cream, flavored with nutmeg, garlic, thyme, and shallots, and then browned under the grill, typically with Gruyere or Parmesan cheese. On French menus, the names Dauphiné or Dauphinois indicate recipes, mostly relatively modern, from the area of the ancient and quasi-independent principality called Dauphiné (in the Southeast of modern France).  There, historically, the ruling Counts, under the banner of the Holy Roman Empire, ruled using the title Dauphiné.   At the end of the 14th century, the Dauphins sold their land and titles to the French King, with the title Dauphiné becoming the title of the King’s eldest son.

Légumes de Provence: Vegetables from Provence. On a menu listing, this indicates that the produce is locally sourced. It will not be referring to a particular vegetable, though Provence is blessed with courgettes, zucchinis, aubergines, eggplants, tomatoes, garlic and much more.




Lamb’s kidneys à la Bordelaise
Photograph courtesy of stu_spivack
www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/1402327961/

Rognons Blancs

Restaurants in the country may offer Rognons Blancs - These are not kidneys, these are the French names for animal testicles. On country menus there may be Rognons Blancs au Riesling  Lamb’s testicles prepared in Riesling wine from the Alsace in the region of the Grand Est. Rocky Mountain Oysters is one of the names used for these cuts in parts of the USA.

---------------

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Just add the word, words, or phrase you are searching for to the phrase "Behind the French Menu" enclosed in inverted commas (quotation marks) and search using Google, Bing, or another search engine.  Behind the French Menu's links include hundreds of words, names, and phrases commonly seen on French menus. There are over 450 posts featuring more than 4,000 French dishes, all accompanied by English translations and explanations.

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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2012, 2015, 2018, 2025

 

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