Showing posts sorted by date for query daube. Sort by relevance Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by date for query daube. Sort by relevance Show all posts

Daube – A Traditional Provencal Stew. Now on Menus all Over France.

                                                                     

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   
Daube de boeuf
   
Originally daubes were only made with beef, lamb or goat with the meat marinated overnight in herbs, garlic, vegetables, pork rinds, tomatoes and red wine.  Then, the next day, with the addition of more red wine a daube would be slowly braised until ready. Now daubs come with a far wider range of ingredients and recipes that include fish, shellfish and white wine.

Successful local recipes in France, including many from Provence, have often become popular throughout France and daubes are no exception. Today’s daubes or similar stews under that name are an excellent example. Most daubes on French menus are still beef stews, but you will now be offered daubes made with wild boar and others that  are based on goose, duck,  tuna, or seafood.  In Provence, most restaurants will still have traditional daubes on their menu in winter, though each restaurant will claim that theirs is unique. From my experience, those that I have tasted and enjoyed, have all been close to the original version.  All have been splendid but remain fundamentally similar.  Despite that caveat, the disputes over the slight differences among chefs and the cognoscenti are never ending.

Daube on French menus:
 
Daube à l'Ancienne –  Daube in the traditional manner; beef marinated and then stewed with red wine and tomato base. The vegetables include onions and carrots. Dishes offered à l'Ancienne, mean prepared in the traditional manner also offers the diner a chance to ask the waiter what "a l'ancienne" means to the chef. Do ask, I have been surprised by the variety of answers.


Daube de boeuf. (With parsnip puree, button mushrooms, and lardons).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tpholland/4122574973/  FF

Daube à la Niçoise - A daube in the manner of the City of Nice on the Cote d”Azur. On menus in Nice written in Niçard (Nissart), the local dialect, mostly a dialect of Provencal and Italian, the menu may offer La Doba Nissarda -The Stew Nicoise.  Apart from using a local red wine the Nissarde version often includes a local Marc, Armagnac or Cognac. Nice is famous for many other dishes including Salade Nicoise and Ratatouille.
    

Daube de boeuf
https://www.flickr.com/photos/adactio/1350135957/    FF
   
Daube aux Cuisses de Canards – Daube with duck’s leg.  This red wine based daube is a local favorite in Lot et Garonne.

Daube de Mouton A mutton stew; the mutton will be marinated, with most of the fat removed, and then cooked slowly with wine and vegetables as with a beef daube.


Daube d'Agneau
Lamb Daube with Pappardelle
 
Daube Gasconne aux Pruneaux – Beef Daube in the manner of Gasconne, Gascony; made with added prunes. The old principality of Gascony has an agricultural base firmly anchored in plums for the prune industry.  The center of the French prune industry is the town of Agen.  


Daube de Colombe
Pigeon daube.

Daube de Sanglier avec Raviolis Maison – A daub of wild boar served with home made ravioli.  This, almost certainly, will be farmed wild boar;  real wild boar would be sanglier sauvage or would be part of a "hunting season" menu, a Menu de Chasse.
  
Daube de Thon à la Sétoise – A tuna daube made in the manner of the famous fishing port of Séte on the Mediterranean.
 
Daube de Poulpe à l'Encre de Seiche -  A daube of octopuses flavored with cuttlefish ink.

Daubières,


Daubière.
Photograph courtesy of Office de Tourisme Intercommunal du
Pays d'Aubagne et de l'Etoile
Atelier Barbotine, Aubagne dabiere
Aubagne is in the department of Bouches-du-Rhône
 in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur.
               
Daubes were initially made in metal or earthenware pots called daubières. These are covered pots that were made in a wide variety of shapes, and designed for long cooking as the less expensive cuts were generally used for long-cooked stews. The traditional daubière would be a terracotta or metal pot. The lids were made to allow the water which became steam to condenses on the inside and return to the stew, which allowed for the long cooking time required. Today,  large casserole containers may do; nevertheless, for serving in the better restaurants an antique or specially created daubière may be used to present the dish and the traditional inexpensive cuts may be replaced by better and more flavorful choices.
  

18th Century Daubiere.



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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2016.

The Basses Côtes on French Menus. Particular Cuts from the USA and UK Chuck and are the Tastiest Cuts of Beef.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


Provençal Daube
Photograph courtesy of NwongPR
www.flickr.com/photos/nwongpr/51436460197/
 

The best parts of the chuck are the Basses Côtes   

Dining in France on fabulous meat dishes means more than an excellent fillet or an entrecote steak from grass-fed beef served with perfect French fries.  French chefs use their knowledge of the tastiest cuts for stews and other dishes. An example is the way the French use part of the cut called chuck in the USA and the UK. Chuck comes from the end of the entrecote, and the rib-eye steaks and in the USA continues towards the neck. In France, the first five ribs of the UK or USA Chuck are the Basses Côtes; these cuts offer the best flavor. 

 

The French Cuts.
Photograph courtesy of saprimex.fr
     

Before they graduate from cooking school, French chefs must be able to buy, choose, cut, and prepare all cuts of meat. France has no equivalent of the USDA Choice, Select, or Prime, so all French chefs must learn how to select meat themselves. They look for the required marbling, know how to eliminate tough cuts, check the thickness covering the bones, etc. Many French chefs know as much about the different cuts as a professional butcher does.

  

A menu list offering a Bœuf Bourguignon or a Provencal Daube will rarely tell you which cut is used, but a French diner will know that the best of these are from the Basses Côtes. The Basses Côtes offer more flavor than any other cut, and most North American and UK chefs agree. 


The British Cuts 

On your menu in France:  

Basse Côte de Boeuf Black Angus, Effeuillée d'Ėpinards, et Pommes Anna - The best part of the chuck from Black Angus beef served with spinach with the stems removed and Anna potatoes. The meat will be cut thinly and marinated overnight, producing a tasty and delicate cut that will be lightly fried. The Basses Cotes make some steaks, but they cannot be cooked more than medium-rare. For more about ordering steaks in France cooked the way you prefer, click here.

Pommes de Terre Anna

Pommes de Terre Anna is sliced potatoes baked in butter in a casserole and is considered a potato dish with an indiscreet past. The chef Adolphe Dugléré, who created this dish, was the Chef de Cuisine at a famous Parisian restaurant called the Café Anglais in the middle of the 19th Century. An important restaurant customer was Anna Deslions, one of Paris’s most famous courtesans; she entertained her wealthy customers in one of the upstairs rooms of the restaurant. Adolphe Dugléré, a pupil of France’s most renowned chef Antonin Carême, named the dish after this important customer.


Anna potatoes
Photograph courtesy of stu_spivack
www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/4010845467/

Cœur de Basse Côte de Bœuf aux Baies de Séchouan – The heart of the chuck steak flavored with Sichuan Pepper Berries. Sichuan berries, while not a real pepper, can be as hot as chili. Sichuan pepper is also one of the spices used in Chinese five-spice powder.

Basse Côte de Bœuf, Façon Bourguignonne Revisité - Here the beef is prepared and cooked as Bœuf à la Bourguignonne and “revisite” means revisited. Revisiting on any menu listing indicates that the chef will be making some changes in a traditional recipe. Here it would be interesting if you asked the waiter what the changes are.


Basse Côte de Bœuf, Façon Bourguignonne
Photograph courtesy of Arnold Gatilao
www.flickr.com/photos/arndog/2414896865/

Basse Côte de Bœuf Black Angus de U.S.A. Sauce Choron  Chuck steak from imported USA Black Angus Beef served with a Sauce Choron. Sauce Choron is a child of Sauce Bearnaise, itself a child of Sauce Hollandaise. Many sauces were developed from Sauce Hollandaise, and that is why it is called a mother Sauce. Sauce Choron is Sauce Béarnaise with added tomatoes.

Basse Côte de Bœuf Grillée Sauce Barbecue 
au Jack Daniel’s

Jus Vin Rouge et MoelleFrites - The middle rib from the chuck is served with a sauce made from the natural cooking juices flavored with red wine and bone marrowFrench fries will be served on the side. The plancha or planxa is a very thick iron sheet. It is at least two centimeters (6/8") thick and claimed as their own by the Basques, the French, and the Spanish. This traditional cooking method provides very even heat and uses very little oil; the result is a taste somewhere between frying and grilling. 


Noix de Basse-Côte de Bœuf Black Angus
Photograph courtesy of Trip Advisor
.  

Basse Côtes Farci de Boeuf Braisé aux Trompettes de la Mort - Here a cut from the Basses Cotes is stuffed with wild Black Chanterelle or Black Trumpet mushroom. The first name for this mushroom in French translates as the "Trumpet of Death," though this mushroom is not poisonous; the second name sounds much better and means "Horn of Plenty." This mushroom is mostly called the black trumpet mushroom in English. The Horn of Plenty mushroom is an important member of the Chanterelle mushroom family, which are all wild mushrooms; they will be on the menu in season, which, depending on the area in France, runs from the end of June through September. 


Basse Côte Grillée
L’Atellier des Chefs

Basse Côtes d'Agneau Rôti aux Girolles – A Basses Côtes of lamb roasted with wild Chanterelle Girolle mushrooms. Lamb does not have a cut called chuck in English; nevertheless, the placing of the Basses Côtes is still the cut between the shoulders. The Girolle Chanterelle mushroom on this listing will be gathered in the wild. Most restaurants have yearlong agreements with professional ramasseurs, professional gatherers; all year round, they gather wild mushrooms, herbs, and spices and sell them to restaurants. Despite that, sometimes the chef is a mushroom addict, and it is he or she that is up early for a long walk and search in the woods after the rain.


Wild Chanterelle/Girolle Mushrooms on sale in the market.
Photograph courtesy of Henry Söderlund
www.flickr.com/photos/hrns/14945340814/

In French supermarkets, as in the USA and the UK, the parts of the chuck used in France will carry different suffixes. However, the Basses Cotes cover a smaller area than the USA or UK chuck, and that part of the list will be much shorter. The Basses Cotes cuts come from marbled meat and make excellent stews. Thinly sliced and marinated, they can be grilled or fried as steak; these are neither tough nor fatty cuts.

  


The USA Cuts
Photograph courtesy of Beef2Live

-------------------------------- 

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by
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behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


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Congre - Conger Eels. The Conger Eel in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com


A conger eel looking out of its cave.
Photograph courtesy of La Cote Bleu
Photograph by C.Coudre

Congre or Anguille de Mer
The Conger eel or the European Conger Eel.

The conger eel is the biggest and the heaviest member of the eel family. They have a firm, tasty flesh, and apart from their important place in French fish soups and stews, they will be served on their own as filets or as fried or grilled steaks. The conger eel is a sea animal, treated like a fish, and from the same family as the European freshwater eel which is also much appreciated in French cuisine. The European conger eel is caught in the Mediterranean, where it is an important ingredient in the Marseilles Bouillabaisse, and in the Atlantic where it is essential for an authentic Basque Ttoro fish stew. Apart from France, you will find conger eel on many Japanese and South American menus.


Conger eels on sale at an open-air market.
The Conger eels are at the back.
To the right are Dover sole and to the front are Plaice.
Photograph courtesy of Graeme Churchard
www.flickr.com/photos/graeme/43308883494/

You may have seen a National Geographic Magazine or a National Geographic Channel clip with conger eels over 2.5m (8 feet) long. However, that most French fishers usually catch smaller sizes, but they are not so small either. Most French-caught conger eels will be around 0.8 meters (2.5 feet). The conger eel prefers living in caves, and then they are caught by a rod and line offering them a tasty morsel. Only rarely do conger eels end up in fishing nets.

 


Another conger eel waiting for lunch to pass its cave,
Photograph courtesy of gordon.milligan
www.flickr.com/photos/el-milligano/11715500795/

Conger eels on French Menus:


Congre au Beurre - Conger eel steaks lightly fried in butter. 

 

Bouillabaisse.

Photograph courtesy of Cyclone Bill.

www.flickr.com/photos/cyclonebill/2855022887/

 

Congre Grillée  à l'Ail et au Persil – A grilled conger eel steak flavored with garlic and parsley.

              

Daube de Congre – A conger eel stew. A conger eel version of a Provençal dish that began as a beef daube, itself traditionally made with red wine. Following that daube tradition, the meaty flesh of the conger eel will be cooked in red wine. The recipe for this daube will often include shrimp, mussels, and some small fish added for flavor and decoration,

   

 

Congre à la bretonne

Conger eel in the manner of Brittany.

Photograph of courtesy of Cuisine AZ

       

Matelote de Congre au Vin Rouge  A matelote fish stew made with the conger eel and red wine. All matelotes are fish stews, some will be made with freshwater fish, and others like this menu listing are made with sea fish. Here the conger eel is the star. (See Bouillabaisse and Ttoro).

 

Matelote De Congre Au Vin Rouge

Photograph courtesy of Pavillon France

 

Soupe d´Araignée de Mer et de Congre Légèrement Piquant – A mildy spicey soup made with the European spider crab and the conger eel.  The spider crab is considered the tastiest of France’s local crabs.

The Conger eel in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan – congre), (Dutch - zeepaling), (German – conger meerale or  meeraale), (Italian - grongo),  (Spanish – congre, conger safio, congrio), (Latin -  conger conger).

With thanks to Froese, R. and D. Pauly. Editors. 2015. FishBase. World Wide Web electronic publication. www.fishbase.org, version (04/2015) for help with the names on conger eels in a number of languages.
 
-----------
 
Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
a French menu?
 
Just add the words, names, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google.  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.
 
----------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2015, 2021
 
--------------------
 
Connected Posts:
 
Anguille, Anguille d'Europe - Freshwater Eels in French Cuisine.
      
Basque Cuisine. The Basque Cuisine of the Pays Basque. Ordering Basque Dishes.
   
Bouillabaisse and Bouillabaisse from Marseilles on your Menu as Bouillabaisse Marseillaise. Bouillabaisse on French Menus. Links to Recipes for Bouillabaisse.
   
Beurre - Butter. Butter in French Cuisine.
 
Carrelet, Plie or Plie d'Europe – Plaice, the fish. Plaice on French Menus.
 
Crabes - Crabs. Crabs Among the Crustaceans on Your French Menu. Crustaceans II.  
 
Daube – A Traditional Provencal Stew. Now on Menus all Over France.
    
Garlic – Ail. Garlic in French Cuisine. Herbs and Spices in the French Kitchen.
   
Mussels in France.Ordering Mussels is More than just Moules Frites in France. How to Order Moules Frites.
 
Persil - Parsley. Parsley in French Cuisine.
  
Shrimps and Prawns Among the Many Tasty Crustaceans on Your French Menu.
 
Sole Française - Dover Sole in French Cuisine
     

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