Caille - Quail. Quail on the Menu in France.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
Quail and their eggs.
Photograph courtesy of Yay Micro.
  
Farm-raised quail taste slightly sweeter than chicken and when simply roasted you will note that slightly sweeter taste.  N.B. Quail is also more easily flavored than chicken and so often that slightly sweeter taste is lost among the other flavors in the cooking process.

Roast quail for three.
Photograph Yay Micro

A serving of quail, a whole European quail, will most likely weigh in at less than 150 grams (5.30 ounces)  and that’s with the bones; if the quail are smaller you will often be served two.
  
Quail on the French menu:
   
Caille à la Stanislas - Quail in the manner prepared for Stanislas, Duke of Bar and Lorraine, France. In the original recipe, the quail was deboned, roasted and then served stuffed with fattened goose liver, foie gras de oie. Caille à la Stanislas is still on some French menus today; however, the amount of fois gras will be greatly reduced from the serving in the original dish. That should not be too surprising, given today's cost of foie gras in France.

Stanislas, before he became a French Duke, was a Polish king who was fired from that job, twice! Unemployed kings do not usually have good job prospects. Nevertheless, Stanislas received the title Duke of Lorraine with a job to go with it from his son-in-law, who was King Louis XV of France. Stanislas also received a chateau outside the city of Nancy in the Lorraine. The chateau was not a small one, and it is still known as the Versailles of the Lorraine. Stanislas's building of three stunning squares in the City of Nancy would make the city world-famous, and the squares are now UN World Heritage sites. Despite Stanislas's great works and (for the times) progressive rule, he is best remembered as the man who gave the name to the dessert Rhum Baba.  Rhum Baba or Rum Baba and other dishes that were first served in Stanislas's chateau.   The Savarin or Savarin au Rhum is based on the Rhum Baba but named after Jeanne Anthelme Brillat-Savarin who lived over 100 years later.

Fig and quail egg salad.
Photograph courtesy of Yay Micro
   
Caille Rôtie Farcie de Girolles, de Cèpes et de Roquette, Sauce Porto – Quail roasted while stuffed with the girolle chanterelle mushroom,  and cèpes, the French Porcini mushroom,  along with rocket leaves. The dish is served with a port wine sauce.  Despite France having its own Port style wines, both Port and Madeira wines will be in every French kitchen and in many sauces.
 
Caille Aux Raisins - Quail prepared and served with grapes.
  
California quail
www.flickr.com/photos/71073348@N08/6920753719/
     
La Crème de Topinambours en Cappuccino et Son Effilochée de Poitrine de Caille – A frothy cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup served with small pieces of quail breast.
 
 The use of the word cappuccino in this menu listing refers to the froth on the soup and not to coffee. When the Italians named their coffee creation cappuccino little attention was paid to the froth. Cappuccino coffee received its name from the color of the milky coffee, which is similar to the color of the hood of a Capuchin friar's robes. However, do not let us get confused by the facts.  On today's French menus cappuccino, apart from when the word is actually used for cappuccino coffee, means froth. The word effilochée in this menu listing indicates the way the quail meat has been cut. Your French-English dictionary  will show the translation of effilochée as frayed; however on a French menu effilochée refers to the way  meat is cut and here it indicates the slicing of quail breast into small pieces to serve in the soup.
  
Salade d'Oeuf de Caille, Pointe d'Asperge et Aiguillette de Canard -  A salad of quails’ eggs, they will be served either fried or boiled, whichever looks better, along with asperge, asparagus spears, and slices of  Magret de Canard, duck breast.
     
Fig and quail egg salad.
Photograph by Apolonia courtesy of freedigitalphotos
    
Salade de Cailles Rôties au Vinaigre Balsamique – A salad of roasted quail dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette.     
  
Quail Eggs
      
The European quail is a little smaller than the American quail. Despite the quail family's connection to pheasants you would not know it to taste one or to look at one. Farms that raise quail also raise these birds for their beautiful eggs; quail eggs are an essential part of quail farming economics.
    
Quail eggs
Photograph by Phiseksit courtesy of freedigitalphots.net
   
Quail eggs taste exactly the same as a chicken egg; however, if you were planning to make an omelet the size of a two chicken-egg omelet you will need about 10 quail eggs.
    
A hen’s egg and a quail egg.
Photograph courtesy of Yay Micro.
    
During the short hunting season, wild quail are legally hunted in France; if they appear on a restaurant’s menu the term used will be caille sauvage, wild quail. Wild quail are smaller and stronger tasting than the farmed variety, but they are also tougher and so they will be prepared with different recipes to farmed quail.
   
Wild quail in the bushes.
www.flickr.com/photos/sidm/4220112535/

In the Old Testament, Exodus 16, it is the quail, along with Manna that God sent for the Israelites to eat in the desert. The original recipe served at that time, has been lost in the sands of the Sinai desert. In France, there are many new and recreated recipes for quail.  

Caille - Quail in the languages of France's neighbors:
  
(Catalan - guatlla, guatla, guàtlera), (Dutch - kwartel), (German - wachtel), (Italian - quaglia comune), (Spanish -  codorniz común).

--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2013, 2016, 2019.
 
--------------------------------

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Genièvre or Baie de Genièvre- Juniper Berries. Juniper Berries in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

    
Juniper berries
Seitseminen National Park, Finland.
Photograph courtesy of Leo-setä
       
Juniper berries are not really berries. The so-called berries are the tasty, dried, sour, blue-black, pods or cones that contain the juniper seeds. Fresh juniper pods are rarely seen as they need two years to ripen. So it is the dried juniper pods that are used for their flavor, like a herb.  The pods/berries are readily available and keep for a long time and will be found in every French kitchen and I will call them berries in this post.
   
The juniper is an evergreen bush from the conifer family, and it grows wild all over Europe. The dried pod is behind the flavor in hundreds of sauces, pastries, and of course gin.

         
Juniperus Communis
The most often seen European juniper tree and berry.
www.flickr.com/photos/biodivlibrary/7845263260/
  
Juniper berries on French menus:
Dos de Saumon au Chou Alsacien, Beurre Blanc aux Baies de Genièvre – A thick cut of Atlantic salmon prepared with the unique Quintal d'Alsace cabbage served with a beurre blanc sauce flavored with juniper berries. (The Quintal d'Alsace cabbage is a cabbage hybrid that may grow to six or more kilos (13 lbs). Nevertheless, most of these cabbages are picked when quite small, around four kilos(8.8 lbs))!
   
Les Médaillons de Chamois aux Baies de Genièvre  - Round cuts of steak from a young mountain goat from the Alps, the mountain antelope, flavored with juniper berries.  A close cousin of this mountain goat is called the isard or izard and found in the Pyrenees where it will be on menus with similar recipes.
    
The Chamois
www.flickr.com/photos/unicoletti/3501022289/
 
Juniper with its clear taste is traditionally used with game dishes. Wild game has a strong flavor, and the juniper provides some competition.  Cuts like the menu item above cannot come from an adult as steaks would be far too stringy. The meat from adults will be marinated in wine, flavored with juniper and then stewed.

Cotes de Sanglier à la St. Hubert Chops from a wild boar prepared in the manner of Saint Hubert.  St Hubert (656-727) is the Belgian patron Saint of the Belgian Ardennes’ region and its hunters. The hunters in the French Ardennes, across the border, have similar recipes and are also happy to have St. Hubert look after them. In season, game dishes are on the menus across the whole Ardennes.  This dish and many other St. Hubert dishes, were all created for wild game and any will be flavored with juniper berries. The French department of Ardennes is in the new super region of Le Grande Est.
   
Stewed wild boar with juniper berries
www.flickr.com/photos/donutgirl/6542858367/
  
Jambon de Luxeuil or Jambon de Luxeuil Les Bains- This is a cured and smoked ham. It is produced around the spa town of Luxeuil-les-Bains in the north of the department of Haute-Saône in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté.  The ham is marinated in salt and juniper berries and then lightly smoked before being hung for at least nine months.  Luxeuil-les-Bains is close to the town of Fougerolles where they make some of France’s best kirsch, the cherry liquor.
        
Les Rognons de Veau aux Baies de Genévrier Flambés au Genièvre – Veal kidneys prepared with juniper berries and served flambéed with gin.
   
La Terrine de Lapereau aux Baies de Genévrier – A hare pate flavored with juniper berries. (A hare is a lapereau and a rabbit is a lapin).
     
Ostrich pate with juniper berries.
www.flickr.com/photos/joedm/110932016/
   
Tournedos de Magret de Canard  Réduction au Quinoa et Genévrier – Thick cuts of duck breast served with a sauce made with the natural cooking liquids along with quinoa and juniper berries.
      
   
Gin
    
Behind gin’s popularity as a beverage is the physician Franciscus Sylvius (1614 –  1672). Sylvius was a respected Dutch doctor who recommended mixing juniper pods with alcohol along with other herbs that were sold in pharmacies for treating gallstones, gout and more. The Dutch names for gin are jenever, junever, and genièvre. Since Franciscus Sylvius put the drink on the market, the Dutch distilleries have never looked back.  Though how many people have been cured by drinking large quantities of gin is unknown.
     
Beefeater Gin
www.flickr.com/photos/acidhelm/8439731853/
 
The English knew about gin long before the Dutch William of Orange and his wife, Mary became King and Queen of England, Ireland, and Scotland in 1689.  Nevertheless, gin’s popularity grew with the Dutch influence. Within 60 years of William and Mary arriving in England, the country was swamped with cheap unlicensed gin shops.  Gin became the drink of the poor, and most of the gin sold did not even contain any real juniper berries.
The Dutch universally get the credit for creating gin while the English take the credit for drinking the most gin per capita. The British justified their unlimited consumption of gin when they ruled India.  Then they drank gin and tonic, with added quinine, as quinine was part of the fight against malaria.
     
Tonic water with quinine
Quinine is Phosphorescent
www.flickr.com/photos/azadam/179487975/

The juniper berry, or pod, in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan – ginebre),(Dutch -  jeneverbes), (German - wacholder), (Italian - ginepr), (Spanish - enebro). (Provençal -  genèbre), (Latin - juniperus communis).


--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2013, 2017, 2019
 
--------------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
 

Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google, Bing, or another browser.  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.
Connected Posts:
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
  
   
 

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