Cognac the Town, and Visiting Cognac and Tasting the Product. Cognac IV.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


   
A night view of Cognac across the River Charente.
  
Planning a trip to Cognac
and tasting the product.
  
Many people, myself included, have visited Cognac on day trips while staying elsewhere; others prefer a single two-day visit with an overnight stay. Other visitors make the town of Cognac a base for their whole vacation with daily excursions to areas of interest outside the town of Cognac. You may plan a vacation that will suit all ages and still allow a one or two days in and around the town Cognac.
    
The grape-growing region of Cognac set within the French departments of Charente, Charente-Maritime, Deux-Sèvres and Vienne and part of the department of Dordogne. (Since 1-1-2016 Poitou-Charentes is part of the new Super Region of Nouvelle Aquitaine). From anywhere in these departments and nearby cities like Bordeaux and Limoges, you can easily reach Cognac.
    
     
Distances    
Map of the Cognac region with Bordeaux to the south.
Google Maps©
   
Paris to Cognac: 400 km (250 miles) By car about 5 hours without stopping; not recommended as you miss some great places to visit along the way. A train from the Paris Montparnasse station takes three and a half hours with one change. The train from CDG airport Pairs to Cognac is a four and a quarter-hour trip with one change. If you are driving, there are many great places and reasons to stop and make it a two-day slow drive to Cognac. The most direct route is the E5 with optional stops at Orleans, Tours or Poitiers. For those choosing the roads less traveled, then driving via the city of Le Mans, so famous for its 24-hour car race as well as its automobile museum, and of course, the longest go-kart track in the world; the trip via Le Mans adds just one hour to the drive.
  
Angouleme to Cognac:  47kms (30 miles). Twenty minutes by road or twenty minutes by train from Angouleme station. Angouleme is a pretty town and famous both for its cathedral and for its international comics festival, so there is plenty for all. Angouleme also has the nearest airport to the town of Cognac. For English history buffs, Angouleme was the birthplace of an English Queen, Isabella of Angoulême (1188 -1246), the second wife of King John. King John became king in 1199 after the death, in  France, of his brother Richard the Lion Heart. Richard is, or rather was, buried in Fontevraud Abbey, near Chinon; that is a 165 km (100 miles), about a two and a half-hour drive from Cognac.
  
Bordeaux to Cognac: 120kms (75 miles). About 1 hour and 30 minutes by car, two hours by train with one or two changes. The old city of Bordeaux is a World Heritage site, and it is a beautiful city for strolling. From Bordeaux, there are wine routes to the various wine appellations with maps available at the tourist offices; there are also daily bus excursions to the wine country, with tastings, and all can be booked locally.
   
La Rochelle to Cognac: 105 km (65 miles). About 1 hour and 15 minutes by car. The train takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes direct. La Rochelle is a beautiful and historic town with much to see, and it is equally famous for its seafood and fish restaurants. From La Rochelle, it is a 15 minute trip to the island of Île de Ré via a 3-kilometer bridge. The Île de Ré is one of the most popular vacation spots for the French; wonderful beaches, wonderful restaurants, and the vineyards that are the source of some of the Cognac House Camus’s exclusive Cognacs. 
  
Limoges (in Limousine) to Cognac: 148 km (92 miles). Two hours by car. No direct trains. Limoges is the home of porcelain and its Musée National Adrien Dubouché is the national porcelain museum.
  
Poitiers to Cognac: 158kms (98 miles). About two hours by car. The train is 1 ½ hour direct. Poitiers is a University city and it is a lovely walkable city full of cafés and restaurants.
  

Royan - Cognac:  66 km 41miles). About 1 hour and 15 minutes by car. By train one hour direct. Royan is famous for its Atlantic coast beaches that spread out for kilometers on either side of the town. The beaches include both public and private beaches.
  


Some like ice in their Cognac.
www.flickr.com/photos/30478819@N08/32625830898
    
Before leaving home.

Or failing that as soon as possible, look up the following web sites:
  
The Tourist office of Cognac
Help with planning booking hotels, Cognac tours, car rental, and side-trips.,
  
Les Étapes du Cognac.
The Étapes du Cognac website is run by over fifty companies that promote all things about Cognac and are based in the town. They offer help with hotels as well as help with booking visits and tasting tours to over 130 Cognac houses.  
   

With the help of the tourist office and Les Étapes du Cognac, you may plan your own trips or book a guided tour as well as which, when and where to visit a Cognac House or Houses.
   
  
If you prefer to be guided and there is much to be said for that when time is limited look at the following sites. They are run by companies that offer a variety of services that include collecting you from the train station or hotel and arranging unique and different visits to place of interest from farmers’ markets to historical sites apart from Cognac Houses. I have not traveled or worked with any of these companies; however. I have only heard good reports.
   
Cognac and wine tours.
  
Cognac tasting tours
  
Cognac and wine tours

Cognac buying and tasting tours

  
When to visit Cognac Houses.
  
Whether making your own plans or considering a guided tour, make yourself aware of the opening hours and the days when museums, restaurants, and Cognac Houses are closed.  
   
Wherever you travel in France with the exception of the Eiffel Tower nothing is open every day of the year. Quite a number of Cognac houses are not open in the winter and many close for lunch even at the height of the tourist season. The prices for visiting and tasting also vary considerably. Some permit visits to their vineyards without charge; others, a few,  make no charge for tastings. Others have multi-tier prices for visits, tastings and specialized visits that may also include lunch and or dinner on the premises.
  
Apart from Cognac most of the Cognac Houses also produce the region’s most popular aperitif, Pineau de Charentes.  For more about this special aperitif see the post:
Pineau de Charentes; the Aperitif of France’s Cognac region.
   
Les Étapes du Cognac’s web site connects you to the sites of some 130 plus Cognac Houses. Most of these sites have English language pages reached by clicking on the appropriate flag.
  
  
Recommendations:

Camus. Established 1863,
2 place du Château, 16200 Jarnac
Tél : +33 5 45 32 72 96
Fax: +33 5 45 80 59 65
Email : s.perret@camus.fr

  
   
The  Camus Île de Ré  range of Cognacs.
These Cognacs come from grapes grown on the island of Île de Ré; 
the island is connected to the town of La Rochelle by a bridge.    

Photograph courtesy of Camus.

Camus’s House is set near the village of Jarnec 16kms (10 miles) or twenty minutes outside Cognac by car. Camus has a unique Cognac made from grapes grown and distilled on the island of Île de Ré These special Cognacs are brought to Camus’s cellars in the village of Jarnec for aging and blending.
   
Camus is also the only Cognac ever to have had a “Royal Warrant “ from one of the Napoleon’s. Despite the 150 years that have passed since then Camus still calls itself the home of Napoleon's cognac.
   
Cognac Bertrand, Domaine des Brissons De Laage.
Established 1731.
17500 REAUX
Tél : 05 46 48 09 03
Port : 06 33 72 21 07
contact@cognac-bertrand.com

  
Cognac Bertrand XO Petite Fine Champagne.
Photograph Courtesy of Cognac Bertrand.
   
Cognac Bertrand is 25 minutes by car from Cognac; this is one of the smaller Cognac houses, but one with a very long history, and a visit that should not be missed.  The larger houses are, often, Cognac versions of Universal Film Studio tours. Smaller houses like Bertrand may lack some of the dazzles but they also offer a view of Cognac production that is much more personal and less guided. At Cognac Bertrand you are not timed,  you may ask questions and also wander around their vineyards and more.
  
Of special interest at Cognac Bertrand: When I last checked the visits and the tastings at Bertrand were free
   
Hennessy. 
Established in 1765.
1, rue de la Richonne
16100 COGNAC
Tél : 05 45 35 72 68
Fax : 05 45 35 79 49
quais@hennessy.fr

       
Hennessey was established by an Irishman, Richard Hennessey. Hennessey had been a soldier in the Irish forces of King Louis XV who fought the English, and upon being discharged he settled in the area of Cognac.   Hennessey’s Cognac House has since become the largest single Cognac producer in the world, and today Hennessy is part of LVMH Louis Vuitton.
    
Hennessy buys most of the grapes they use as their art is in the aging and blending of Cognac, and of course its merchandising.  
   
Hine. 
Established in 1765
Thomas HINE & C°
16 Quai de l'Orangerie,
16200 Jarnac
Tel: +33 (0) 5 45 35 59 49
info@hine.fr
www. HINECOGNAC.COM
   
  
HINE TRIOMPHE
Photograph courtesy of HINE.
Photographer Gilles de Beauchêne
      
Hine was founded by Thomas Hine, the son of a Dorset, England, farmer, who was sent to France, at age 16, to learn about Cognac.  Thomas married the daughter of an important Cognac merchant and would later change the name of the company to HINE.
  
HINE, with its English history, today holds a Royal Warrant from Queen Elizabeth II of England for the supply of Cognac.
  
Hine is also unique with its Early Landed Grande Champagne cognacs. Hine still ships some Cognac to the UK in barrels. (Only in the late 19th century with the creation of bottle making machinery was Cognac shipped in bottles).  Today Hine ships, every year, about 100 barrels of these special Cognacs to Bristol in Wales; each barrel holds about enough Cognac for 350 750cl bottles; this special Cognac is then bottled in the UK.
   
The reasons for shipping the Cognac in barrels are not only tradition and the accompanying publicity.  In Bristol, the aging conditions are very different from those of Jarnac.  The temperature is lower and remains between 8 and 12°C; HINE claims that the temperature along with a high humidity produces a Cognac with a light and fruity taste.

Martell. Established 1715.
7 Place Édouard Martell, Cognac
Phone : +33 5 45 36 33 33
Cogaxc  16100
Phone : +33 5 45 36 33 33
   
  
Martell XO Reflection Cognac.
Photograph courtesy of Martell.
     
Founded by the Martell family from the Island of Jersey,  the Channel Islands. These islands, between England and France, were brought to England by William the Conqueror and have officially been part of Britain since 1295. The Martell family had been trading with France for many years and then a son Jean Martell started a merchant’s business in Cognac along the River Charente.  Today Martell is the oldest of the Grand Cognac houses.
   
Rémy Martin.  
Established in 1731
THE HOUSE OF RÉMY MARTIN
20, Rue de la Société Vinicole - 16100 COGNAC

Le Domaine Rémy Martin.
Avenue de Gimeux,
16100 Merpins
E-mails for visits: remymartin@remy-cointreau.com
Phone + 33 5 45 35 76 66
 
Merpins is just outside Cognac, a 15-minute drive from the center. Rémy Martin is unique in that apart from offering a one-hour tour they also offer a 4-hour visit that includes lunch prepared by their chef; you may dine for a contribution of €180.00 per person.   Rémy also offers the widest range of tours including a day’s course on blending Cognac and full-day visits with lunch and dinner as well.


--------------------------------

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2014, 2017, 2019
 
--------------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
 

Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google, Bing, or another browser.  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.

Connected Posts:
   
  
Bordeaux and Bordelaise on the Menu, and Bordeaux AOC Wines on the Wine-List.

  
  
Pineau de Charentes; the Aperitif of France’s Cognac region. Cognac III.


  

Bouillabaisse and Bouillabaisse Marseillaise on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


A bouillabaisse.
A genuine bouillabaisse is a whole meal.
Do not  order an hors d’oeuvre or an entrée if
you are in a restaurant that serves  a real bouillabaisse; it is a very large meal.
www.flickr.com/photos/birdies-perch/407676260/
       
The taste of a Bouillabaisse
   
Bouillabaisse’s unique taste comes from a recipe that includes a special fish stock blended with saffron and garlic combined with fennel, thyme, parsley, olive oil and of course, the fish.  It is not often that you have the opportunity to enjoy a dish where saffron really comes to the fore and bouillabaisse is that dish.
 
Served alongside each diner’s bowl will be a thick rouille sauce, grated Gruyere or Parmesan cheese, along with garlic toast or croutons. The rouille sauce is a made with Provence’s famous aïoli garlicky mayonnaise, to which chilies have been added to make it spicy. Worry not the diner controls the spice.        
  
Rouille, grated cheese, and slices of toasted 
and garlic-flavored baguette.

The Rouille sauce.
   
Rouille sauce, the word means rust and refers to the sauce's color, is not unique to bouillabaisse; a rouille sauce accompanies many other French fish soups.  All rouille sauces will be slightly different; the chef matches the rouille to flavor a particular soup correctly. 
 
Few French recipes are really spicy and for that reason, you, the diner, add the spicy rouille to your preferred taste. Each diner also chooses how much of the grated cheese and toasted baguette or croutons to add.  I add the rouille, firstly to the garlic toast, and taste it, then I dip a little in the soup and taste it again.  Then I can finally decide how much of the rouille I want to add to the soup.     
   
A serving of bouillabaisse.
www.flickr.com/photos/birdies-perch/377586026/
  
The serving of bouillabaisse in two parts
   
Restaurants who have enough trained staff and enjoy presenting restaurant theatre will serve a bouillabaisse in two parts. The serving of bouillabaisse in two stages, when correctly done, makes a wonderful meal even more enjoyable.  First served is the soup, usually with an additional bowl placed in the center of the table; that extra bowl is on hand for second and third helpings. The soup, when the diners have finished, will be followed by the second course, the fishes that were cooked in the soup. A server, often it will be the Maitre D’, will then fillet the fish with a minimum of hand movements; a theatrical show of genuine expertise and excellent restaurant theatre,
  
The soup from a bouillabaisse.
Photograph by courtesy of  basykes
www.flickr.com/photos/basykes/3695328099/
       
Despite the enjoyment of the dramatic when a bouillabaisse is served in stages many truly excellent bouillabaisses are found in smaller restaurants. Restaurants that do not have the staff for separate servings may have a great chef in the kitchen and separate servings were never part of the dish’s origins.  For the original fishermen and fisherwomen’s fish stews, there were no waiters around.
       
The stamp that honors Bouillabaisse.
Bouillabaisse is part of the French soul; the French issued a stamp in its honor.
   
  
Bouillabaisse on French menus.
    
Bouillabaisse or Le Vrai Bouillabaisse – The real Bouillabaisse.  If the restaurant is a fish restaurant, expect the real thing.  When in doubt, ask how the restaurant serves its bouillabaisse.
  
Bouillabaisse de Pécheur – A fisherman ’s bouillabaisse. You will see this on menus along the tourist routes in the South of France.  The small print on many of these menus note that only one to three different fish will be included; all variations come with different prices. The different types of fish affect the price as well as the taste. Just as there is no free lunch, there are no cheap versions of a real bouillabaisse. Look carefully at the menus outside restaurants that seem to offer bouillabaisse;  if there is small print read it. These variations are often far from the original and usually much smaller; however, when a whole bouillabaisse is too large a meal, say at lunchtime, consider these offerings as fish soup and enjoy.

The fish market in the old port of Marseille.
www.flickr.com/photos/julien-carnot/8575426805/
        
Bouillabaisse du Nord - A sea fish and seafood soup from the North of France. These are often excellent fish soups, but with different fish to those in a Meditteranean bouillabaisse. Despite that caveat I have often found these soups to be delicious fish soups; so I just enjoy them and ignore the word bouillabaisse.
 
Bouillabaisse Marseillaise – The Mediterranean port city of Marseille claims the original Bouillabaisse Marseillaise recipe from sometime in the 1800s. Many menus in the South of  France offer bouillabaisse; however, Marseille owns the trademark.  The Charter of the Marseillaise Bouillabaisse was written much much later, in 1980.  The charter sets down the rules for an authentic Bouillabaisse Marseillaise, and I have noted the fish and shellfish in the charter in a separate post.
 
With or without the charter, the tradition of bouillabaisse still varies among chefs who specialize in this dish.  Each of these chefs will be true to a tradition, it may be that of his or her mentor, or to a recipe inherited from his or her Grand-mère or Grand-père.   
 
Bouillabaisse Royale – A bouillabaisse served with a half or whole spiny lobster, a langouste, on top; sometimes a crab. The spiny lobster is the owner of the lobster tail. A  Bouillabaisse Royale is a dish created to impress the tourists, French as well.  Lobster tails make excellent eating, as do French crabs, but after a genuine bouillabaisse who needs one? 
  
The most popular crab in France.
  
What is the most important ingredient in bouillabaisse?

The chefs and Maître D’s in Marseille will tell you that the that the fumet, the fish stock, along with the saffron are the most critical ingredients. Nevertheless, that fumet depends on certain fish as set out in the Charter of the Marseillaise Bouillabaisse.
    
Some of these fish will be in your Bouillabaisse
www.flickr.com/photos/banyan_tree/5055394584/
  
Bouillabaisse a long way from home.
   
Having enjoyed, in authentic French restaurants that were far from France, a number of excellent bouillabaisses I lean to the fumet, the fish stock, and the saffron being the most critical part of the recipe. The fish stock used is prepared with vegetables, garlic, herbs, spices, white wine, and white wine vinegar and the heads and bones of fish. The fish stock is the real secret behind the perfect bouillabaisse.
      
The place where bouillabaisse began and the origin of its name.
 
Bouillabaisse began in the port of Marseille on France’s Mediterranean coast; then it was a meal prepared by fishermen and fisherwomen as they returned home. Provencal, a dialect of Occitan, is the language used by most of the Marseille fisher-folk, and in Provencal Bouillabaisse is Boiabaïsso.  The origin of the Provencal/Occitan word is similar to the French; in French bouillir means to boil, and the word abaisser, means to reduce, and voila we have bouillabaisse.  Saffron, the most expensive herb in the dish, was always very expensive, but it was, and some saffron still is, locally grown, as are all the other herbs and spices.
      
 The Original Bouillabaisse

As a working fisherman's and fisherwoman’s meal the original Bouillabaisse used the fish that did not sell well; fish and shellfish that were quickly sold were never for the fishermen or fisherwomen or their families. Fish like John Dory or monkfish, as well as shellfish like the spiny lobster, even mussels, would all have been sold. What was left would be members of the very tasty but poison spined sea robin, the scorpionfish family, along with the weever fish, the conger eel and the cigale de mer, the slipper lobster.
Today a Bouillabaisse often includes much more expensive fish along with shellfish and mussels that were never in the original recipe; we can enjoy the additions despite the implied lack of respect for the original recipe. Even the searobin, the scorpionfish, now that it is supplied to fish markets and restaurants without its spines, is no longer an inexpensive fish.
    
  
Bouillabaisse in New York
      
I enjoyed an East Coast Bouillabaisse in an exclusive Manhattan, NY, USA, restaurant, and that was not a traditional bouillabaisse either; nor did it pretend to be.  The two-clawed lobster, shrimp and the fish in the dish I was served would never have been part of any traditional bouillabaisse stew.  The soup’s taste, obviously down to a perfect fish stock, along with wonderful fish, was very close to the best that I have tasted in Provence, even the rouille was excellent; altogether it was a wonderful bouillabaisse.  Who was I to criticize a really excellent bouillabaisse that had kept its essence; even if it had strayed far from its home port.
   
You can buy many of the fish in New York.
www.flickr.com/photos/smoovey/3263779604/
  
The Charter of the Bouillabaisse Marseillaise.
  
In the Marseille Office de Tourisme, I obtained a copy of La Charte de la Bouillabaisse Marseillaise, the Charter of the Marseillaise Bouillabaisse.    The charter was written in 1980 by a group of three Marseillaise's restaurateurs and was dedicated to preserving the traditional bouillabaisse recipe. The original three have since been joined by many others from France and elsewhere. They may not succeed in ensuring that every chef uses the same fish, but if they preserve the taste that is enough. While the Marseillaise Bouillabaisse charter insists on the use, where possible, of the original fish it does allow for the use of a number of different and more expensive fish and shellfish when the originals are not available.
      
Park your yacht in Marseille
www.flickr.com/photos/tango-/32117044816/


     --------------------------------

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2014, 2019.
 
--------------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
 
Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google, Bing, or another browser.  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.
  
Connected Posts:

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 











Responsive ad