from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
Gigot,
Gigolette, and Gigotins
were created
around a roasted leg of lamb, pig, or goat,
Over time, the original meanings of these words have changed, but this post should make most of today’s
usages clear.
Gigot
A
gigot will still indicate a
leg of lamb, or a young goat, though today it may sometimes the monkfish's meaty tail.
Gigot
on French menus:
Gigot d'Agneau Rôti aux Herbes
de Provence – Roasted leg of
lamb, flavored with the Herbs
of Provence. A gigot of lamb always refers to a rear
leg, the front leg, and the shoulder of lamb is the Épaule d'Agneau.
N.B. When ordering lamb in
France, you will rarely be asked how you would like it cooked, unlike when you
order a steak. The French prefer their lamb rosé, pink. If you prefer your lamb medium or well-done,
advise the server.
Gigot
d’Agneau on an ardoise.
An
ardoise is the slate, a blackboard, or a whiteboard that shows the daily specials inside and outside
French restaurants.
Photograph courtesy of
Fredrik Rubensson.
www.flickr.com/photos/froderik/8282863027/
Gigot de Chevreau Rôti au Thym et Légumes – The leg of a
young male goat, roasted with thyme and vegetables.
Goats are raised for their milk, with some of France’s best cheeses being made
with goat’s milk. However, young males will not grow up to provide milk, and so one of them will be the young goat on the menu.
Gigot de Chevreau aux Haricots Verts - A leg of goat with green beans. Photograph courtesy of Recettes Simples.
Gigot de Lotte Rôti au Thym Citronné, Poêlée de Fèves aux Échalotes – Monkfish tail flavored
with lemon
thyme
and served with lightly-fried fava
beans and shallots. While monkfish
is called lotte in most of France, in the south it is
often called baudroie. The
tasty monkfish tail has very firm flesh, and so
a whole tail may
be served roasted.
Gigot Rôti d'Agneau de Pré-salé – Roasted leg of pre-sale
lamb. Pré-sale lambs will
reach the market when between 4 - 9 months old. Their mothers raise these lambs
until they are weaned and then they graze in the salt meadows close to
France's Northern Atlantic sea coast for two to six months. The grazing in the salt meadows
provides the lambs' unique taste, which, by the way, is in no way salty.
Brochette de Gigot d'Agneau – Attractively
cut cubes of meat from a leg of lamb prepared on a skewer and grilled.
Gigot de Porcelet Farci aux Cèpes - The roast leg of a piglet stuffed with cèpes,
the French porcini mushrooms.
Rouelle
de Gigot d’Agneau –
A loin chop. made from a cut across the rear leg. In this cut the bone is left
in and is usually prepared grilled like a lamb chop or steak though the bone is
in the center.
Gigolette
Gigolette was initially a cooking term used for dishes that included a
leg or legs of small animals, including chickens, ducks, rabbits, frogs, etc. While gigolette
is still used with its original meaning, it is now also used for many other
cuts. A small cut across a lamb bone may be a gigolette d’agneau, a gigolette
of lamb; another cut may be a gigolette de veau, veal. You will need to ask for
more information on some of the dishes when gigolette is on the menu.
However, as a French friend and foodie pointed out many lamb gigolettes will
have been boned; so don’t be alarmed if your order arrives without the bone.
My online
French-English
dictionary definitions for gigolette include a nymph, damsel, and prostitute? I
have, however, so far failed to uncover the secrets of the chefs who gave out
the names for these dishes they created!
Gigolette on French
menus:
Gigolette de Canard au Ris de Veau - A duck’s
leg, most probably
roasted, accompanied by veal sweetbreads. Veal sweetbreads are
an inside cut and one of the tastiest. If you have not yet tried sweetbreads,
France is the place to do so.
Gigolette
de Pintade aux Champignons
– Leg of Guinea fowl with button
mushrooms.
Gigolette de Volaille Farcie aux Morilles – A leg of chicken stuffed with morel
mushrooms.
Gigolette de Lapin Parfumé au Romarin – A leg of rabbit flavored with rosemary.
Gigotin
On a menu, gigotin
will usually indicate a small leg of a lamb, kid, or piglet. Occasionally chefs
get carried away with the poetry they create for their menus. As an example,
consider how the word gigotin began to be used for fish dishes.
Most fish gigotins will be filets that have been rolled, filled, and wrapped before cooking.
Gigotin d'Agneau
au Thym Frais, Tian de Légumes, Gratin Dauphin – A small leg of lamb, roasted with fresh thyme and served with a
tian of vegetables and Gratin
Dauphin.
A tian was originally a specific cooking dish; however, today, the original
tian's particular shape is no longer required. When the word tian is on the
menu, it usually indicates the vegetables cooked in a particular dish will
be served in it. Gratin
Dauphinoise, Gratin Dauphin, or Pommes de Terre Dauphinoise are all the same
dish made with sliced baked potatoes cooked with olive
oil and garlic and layered with
cream and milk. Some versions include onions, and to nearly all are added
grated cheese browned (gratinee)
under the grill before
serving,
Gigotin
de Saint-Pierre
Farci
aux Langoustines, Ragoût d'Artichauts
Violets – The John
Dory fish fileted and wrapped around Dublin
Bay prawns and served with a
ragoût a traditional French stew.
Here the ragoût is made with small violet artichokes.
Gigotin
de Poulet Farci aux
Cèpes – A chicken leg
by any other name will taste the same. Here the chicken leg, the
gigotin, is stuffed with cèpes, the French porcini
mushrooms.
Gigotin d'Agneau, Jus
à l'Ail doux, Gratin Dauphinois - A small leg of lamb
prepared with the juice of sweet
garlic and
served with potatoes gratin dauphinoise.
Gigotin de Daurade et Risotto
au Safran – Gilthead
sea bream served
with a saffron-flavored risotto. While
I admit to not knowing how gilthead sea bream arrived on menus as a
gigotin, I do know that gilthead is a firm, tasty fish. Larger giltheads, over
one kilo, are mostly caught in the Mediterranean, while smaller fish may come
from seawater fish-farms.
A gibelotte began as
a rabbit stew flavored
with bacon, onions, mushrooms, and white wine.
Gibelotte was and is a popular dish, and over time many different dishes have
been added with gibelotte as part of their name. Do not be surprised to see, on
a menu, a gibelotte with beef or game and red wine.
Gibelotte de Lapin au Cidre et Calvados – This is the traditional gibelotte rabbit stew with the
white wine replaced by cider and Calvados. Cider instead of
wine will be seen in Normandy, famous for its cider,
and other apple products,
especially its Calvados apple and pear brandies. The rabbits and hares on French menus are
farm-raised unless clearly marked otherwise.
Gibelotte de Pintade Farcie au Foie Gras – A gibelotte stew of guinea
fowl stuffed
with fattened
duck's liver.
Gigue or
Cuissot
Gigue
(de) or Cuissot – A
haunch. The terms are generally only used for game. (The French word for a small animal’s legs is
cuisse and used for the legs of poultry, rabbits, frogs, and piglets,
etc).
Cuissot de Sanglier au Four et aux Herbes de Provence – A
haunch of wild boar
roasted in the oven and flavored with the Herbs of Provence.
Gigue de Chevreuil Rôti au Four en Sauce Poivrade – A leg of roe deer roasted and served with a sauce poivrade. Sauce poivrade is based on a meat stock, white or red wine, black pepper with thyme and bay leaves as the main herbs.
Gigue
de Chevreuil
Grand Veneur – The
haunch of a roe
deer,
served with the sauce of a Master of the Hunt. Worry not; you will receive slices, not the whole haunch. Grande veneur is a
traditional sauce created to serve with game and the word veneur means hunter. The recipe has changed over time and now is usually made
with red wine vinegar, berries, butter, and herbs. The roe deer on this menu
listing is farm-raised; if this roe deer had been hunted in the wild, the
listing would have noted chevreuil sauvage.
Gigue de Chevreuil Rôti au Four en Sauce Poivrade – A leg of roe deer roasted and served with a sauce
poivrade. Sauce poivrade is based on a
meat stock, white or red wine, pepper, and juniper berries.
Gigue
de Sanglier
Sauce St Hubert - The haunch, the rear leg, of a wild boar, served with
Sauce St Hubert. This is a sweet and
sour, slightly spicy red wine and vinegar sauce with juniper
berries and often
served
with game. When you see dishes with the name Saint Hubert on the menu, they
will be recipes initially created for wild
game.
Saint Hubert is the patron of Saint of the Belgian Ardennes region and the Belgian hunters’ patron saint. The
same or similar wild game dishes are, in season, on the menus over the border in the French department of Ardennes. However, this menu listing is
not for real wild boar, unless it was on a “Menu de Chasse,” a hunting season
menu. A real wild boar would be on the
menu as a sanglier sauvage. France farms wild boar raising them in large open
areas of forests; there, they do not know they are being farmed. Within these
areas, these
farmed wild boar are well fed, and
so they have much tenderer meat than their really wild cousins.
My French foodie friend pointed out that despite the
veneration shown here by the Belgians Saint Hubert was actually born in
Toulouse, France. So the French consider it a little amusing to see the Saint
Hubert portrayed as a Belgian icon, even though he is buried in Belgium.
--------------------------------
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
Copyright 2010, 2015, 2021
--------------------------------
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When
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