Behind the French Menu

Médaillon – A Medallion. A Round or Oval Cut of Beef, Fish and More. Médaillons in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Médaillons de Cerf

Medallions of venison served with a sauce poivrade, mashed potatoes, and sweet potato puree. (A sauce poivrade is based on beef or veal stock and red wine and traditionally served with meat and game).

Photograph courtesy of Kevin Harber

Médaillon in French cuisine may be a round or oval cut of meat or poultry, beef, lamb, pork,,veal, fish or vegetables. A médaillon may be small but thick, or the menu may offer médaillons, in the plural; in that manner indicating that the medallions are individually thinner or smaller. For chicken and other poultry, a médaillon will be a cut from the breast. For fish, the médaillon may be a filet or a cut across a thick portion, like a monkfish tail or in other cases a fish filet may be sliced and then formed into a round or oval shape. For vegetables, a médaillon will describe vegetables cut into a circle or oval shape.

Médaillons on French Menus:

Le Médaillon de Bœuf Bardé au Jambon Séché, Petite Sauce au Poivre Vert de Madagascar et Vin Blanc – A roasted or grilled medallion of beef barded (wrapped) in cured ham and served with a light sauce made with the green peppers of Madagascar and white wine. This cut may be a cut from the tenderloin or a cut from a rump steak. Ask.

(A Petit Sauce usually indicates a sauce developed from one of France’s mother sauces; such a sauce may also be called a child of the mother sauce. However, the Petit Sauce in this menu listing seems to be indicating a light green pepper sauce without indicating its maternal origins so ask).

Medallions of red cabbage

Photograph courtesy of Chris Schaer

https://www.flickr.com/photos/webtuefu/15616443558/

Les Médaillons de Filet de Veau et Leurs Brochettes de Ris de Veau Poêlés, Jus Court au Gingembre et Radeau de Macaroni au Reblochon - Veal medallions cuts from the fillet, the tenderloin, served with lightly fried brochettes (skewers) of veal sweetbreads. The dish is accompanied by a light court bouillon sauce flavored with ginger and served with reblochon cheese on a base of macaroni.

A Sweetbread Medallion

Photograph courtesy of ulterior epicure

Médaillon de Lotte Cuit dans sa Bisque de Crustacés, Légumes Automnales, Etuvée de Blancs de Poireaux au Lard – A round cut from a monkfish tail cooked in a bisque of crustaceans and served with Autumn vegetables and the white part of leeks steamed with bacon. (The crustaceans in the bisque will be mainly shrimps).

Médaillon de Lotte Rôtie aux Zestes de Yuzu Confits, Brisures de Blé Noir et ses Légumes de Saison - A cut across the tail of a monkfish flavored with the zest taken from the slowly cooked Yuzu fruit; accompanied by cracked buckwheat and the season’s vegetables.

The Yuzu is a member of the citrus family and originated, like all other citrus fruits, in China. The Yuzu has a taste somewhere between that of a grapefruit and an orange. In the Japanese kitchen, its rind is popular as it adds lots of flavor and the Yuzu's popularity among French chefs is growing. In this menu listing the flavor is taken from a Yuzu confit. The word confit indicates that the fruit was slowly cooked with wine, wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar. Brown sugar may have been added, and when ready the flavor will have been taken from the confit which will have the consistency of jam.

Médaillons de Chevreuil, Sauce à la Réduction de Vin Rouge aux Bourgeons de Sapin et Airelles - Medallions of roe deer served with a sauce made from the natural cooking juices flavored with red wine, pine buds, and European cranberries. In France roe deer are farmed; but despite that, during the limited hunting season wild roe deer may be on the menu as Chevreuil Sauvage.

Médaillons de Canard au Orange – Medallions of duck breast prepared with an orange sauce.

Nutmeg flavored goat cheese medallions

on a salad with mustard and honey dressing

Photograph courtesy of kochtopf

Médaillons de Foie Gras de Canard aux Cèpes Maison, Pain aux Noix - Round cuts from fattened duck liver served with wild French porcini mushrooms prepared in the restaurant’s unique manner and accompanied by walnut bread made with whole wheat flour

Médaillons de Porc avec Sauce aux Pommes Caramélisées - Medallions of pork served with a sauce and caramelized apples. Here the medallions will be cut from the pork fillet, the pork tenderloin.

Médaillons de Porc

Pork medallions with spätzle, chanterelle mushrooms, and cream.

Spätzle are small dumplings from the Alsace region in France and also Germany; these dumplings look something like overweight bumpy noodles and will be served as a garnish instead of potatoes or rice.

Photograph courtesy of Jessica Spengler

https://www.flickr.com/photos/wordridden/8027393608/

Steak de Cerf avec Sauce à l'Échalote Accompagné de Salade et de Médaillons de Pommes de Terre – A venison steak served with a shallot sauce accompanied by a salad and round cuts of potato.

Venison medallions served in juniper flavored cream

with Romanesco broccoli and hazelnut accented spaetzli.

Photograph courtesy of JaBB

Visitors to France from North America may be confused with the French usage of the word medallions though the usage of the word in all cuisines came from the French. North American butchers have created medallion cuts; these are cuts from inside the T-bone and have no connection to the French médaillons.

Elsewhere in the USA, the term medallions may be used to refer to the small round cuts from the end of the beef tenderloin (the fillet). The misuse in of the word Filet Mignon, in the USA, which is used for most cuts from the tenderloin, has created problems for North American visitors to France. In France, where the word originated, the word Filet Mignon means a dainty filet; a whole tenderloin in the USA weighs between 2.25 to 2.75 kilos ( 5 - 6 lbs), and that is not dainty. On French menus without any further information, a filet mignon will be a cut from a pork tenderloin, the pork fillet. For a beef filet mignon, the cut will be from the narrow end of the tenderloin with the thicker part being cut as fillets in France.

A police medallion from Arlington County, Virginia, USA,
This is the shape that gave its name to the original French médaillons.

Photograph courtesy of Arlington County

https://www.flickr.com/photos/arlingtonva/7983206713/

Medallions in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - medallóns), (Dutch - medaillons),(German – medaillons), (Italian - medaglioni), (Spanish - medallones).

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Behind the French Menu
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behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Charolais AOP – One of France’s Tastiest Goat’s Cheeses. Charolais Cheese from Burgundy on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Charolais AOP goat’s cheese.

Fromage Charolais AOP - A 28% fat, creamy, goat’s milk cheese made with unpasteurized milk. These are small cheeses, which are aged for a minimum of 16 days. At 16 -30 days this cheese may be served warm with a salad, but it will not be on the cheese trolley as it is too mild though the cheese has a slightly nutty and mushroom taste. After 30 days the cheese begins to manifest a stronger flavor with a very light bite. Aging may continue for up to three months when the cheese has a sharp bite, and that is the age preferred by many of the cheese’s aficionados. Most Charolais cheeses are made on the farms where the goats are raised, and they may easily be identified by the round green label attached to every cheese or to its wrapping.

Charolais Cheese.

Photograph courtesy of Fromage Pouillot.

http://www.fromage-pouillot.fr/

The Charolais cheeses are shaped like a barrel and weigh from 250 to 300 grams (8.50 – 10 ounces) each. The rind begins with an ivory color, and as the cheese ripens blue and gray spots appear on the rind. This Burgundian cheese comes from the area of Charolles close to the Beaujolais vineyards.

Charolais AOP goat’s cheese on French menus:

Tartelette Sablée au Fromage Chèvre de Charolais, Tomate Confite -A shortcake tart prepared with the Charolais goat’s cheese and a tomato jam.

Charolais goats heading for higher pastures.

Photograph courtesy of lexpress

Terrine de Fromage Charolais Frais au Basilic et Poivrons Grillées – A pate of fresh, young, Charolaise cheese prepared with basil, the herb, and grilled sweet peppers.

Ravioles de Fromage Charolais ou les Noisettes de Chevreu - Ravioli made with Charolais cheese and served with delicate cuts of the meat from roe deer.

Warm Charolais goat’s cheese salad

Photograph courtesy of Pauline Kenny

https://www.flickr.com/photos/cohenkenny/4254874185/

Croustillant de Saumon et Chèvre Charolais – Crisply cooked Atlantic salmon served with Charolais goat’s cheese.

Fromage de Chèvre Charolais au Miel d'Acacia et aux Fines Herbes, Servi Chaud sur un Lit de Mâche – Charolais goat’s cheese served with acacia tree honey and flavored with the herb group Les Fine Herbes; served hot on a bed of mâche, the salad green called field lettuce in English.

The area where the goats are raised was formerly called Charolais Bourbonnais, and one thousand years ago that was the home of the Bourbon kings of France. Now Charolais Bourbonnais is part of an agricultural and economic area called Le Pays Charolais-Brionnais. The area covers part of the South West of Burgundy and part of the Auvergne - Rhône-Alpes. In this area, goats will also be on many restaurant menus; the young males will not grow up to provide milk and so they will contribute to the local economy in a different manner than the females.

Charolais sheep have reached New Zealand.

Photograph courtesy of Charollais New Zealand

In addition to the goats that provide the milk for this very special cheese the area is also famous for its beef and lamb. The Charolais Bourbonnais beef cattle, Le Bœuf Charolais du Bourbonnais AOP, is one of the most highly rated cattle breeds raised in France. Also from the same area comes the farm-raised Charolais Bourbonnais red label lambs, l’Agneau Charolais Fermier du Bourbonnais, Label Rouge. These are among the most highly rated lambs in France. The manner in which all these animals are raised is a condition of their grading. The beef herds and the flocks of sheep and goats all spend at least half the year grazing freely, and no antibiotics or growth hormones may be used or added to their diet. Additionally, the calves, lambs, and kids must be raised by their mothers until they are weaned.

Charolais beef cattle

Photograph courtesy of stanzebla

https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanzebla/21911861169/

For information on buying cheese in France and taking it home click here.

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Behind the French Menu
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behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Marans - the Eggs from the Marans Chickens. The French Chicken that Lays the Golden Eggs.Œufs de la Poule de Marans (L’).

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Eggs from Marans chickens.

Photograph courtesy of George Wesley and; Bonita Dannells

Marans

Marans is an inland fishing port set along the River Sèvre Niortais in the department of Charente-Maritime. The sea fishermen and women of Marans sail 24 km (15 miles) to reach the Atlantic at the port of La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast. Marans is also famous for its wonderful fish and seafood, its excellent tasting Marans chicken and its place as France’s center for the herb Angelica.

Above all Marans is famous for its amazing chicken’s eggs.

The Marans chickens lay eggs with shells that vary from a light and speckled brown to a solid golden dark red brown. Crack a Marans egg or order a boiled or poached Marans egg and you will be welcomed by a bright orange yolk. These are eggs you have to see to believe. The eggs’ outer color looks very different, but all tests have shown that the inside the yolk and white are those of a regular chicken egg. Nevertheless, the Marans eggs aficionados claim the eggs have a distinctive taste and are considered easily digestible. Wherever you are and hear that Marans eggs are available I recommend going out of your way to try one, preferably a boiled egg; otherwise, ask to see your egg before it is poached or fried; then you may enjoy the egg and its amazing shell. A uniquely colored Marans' egg will never be forgotten.

The American Marans poultry farmers color chart.

The USA Marans chicken growers have nine recognized colors in the Maran’s eggs standard colors.

James Bond had a Marans egg for breakfast very morning.

In the early James Bond Movie: From Russia with Love” Bond is filmed enjoying his breakfast with his favorite, a boiled Marans egg. Apparently, every morning Bond had a single Marans egg boiled for exactly three minutes and twenty seconds. That was Bond in the early days.

The secret behind the colors of the Marans brown eggs (called extra-red by the Marans farmers) is the chickens' genes, not special foods or additives. Additionally, Marans eggs are mostly larger than those laid by other hens.

A Maran rooster (a cockerel) strutting his stuff.

Photograph courtesy of elysianfields

The Marans Chicken was created some two hundred years ago by crossing local chickens with imported fighting game roosters (cockerels) from Indonesia and India. Today the Marans chickens are a favorite at poultry shows and the roosters do not fight, they just strut. The Marans is a dual purpose fowl known both for its extremely dark eggs and its excellent meat qualities. Now there are Marans' poultry farmers in the USA and the UK. You may visit Google or Bing for local suppliers of Marans eggs.

Wherever there are Marans eggs these dishes may be on the menu:

Brouillade d'Œufs de Marans à la Truffe Noire du Périgord - A Brouillade of Marans eggs served with the black truffle of Perigord. A brouillade is a Provencal take on scrambled eggs. To make a brouillade the egg whites and yolks are beaten separately; they are only mixed while cooking. The result is a very light and airy version of scrambled eggs. Most brouillades will be served with an additional ingredient, and here it is the very special, and expensive, black truffles from Perigord. When ordering a dish like this, you will be paying a high price for scrambled eggs if there is little truffle in the dish. Ask if the truffle can be added when the dish is served and not in the kitchen. Caveat Emptor, I am warning you as I have had this dish which was served, as an entree, the French first course, with just a few black specks; no truffle that could be seen or tasted. There was little I could do as the Maitre D’ refused to add more truffle or even show me the truffle they used. What I and a friend who had ordered the same dish did was to pay my bill, take the ¾ full bottle of wine, and walk out. Unfortunately, most diners are unwilling to make such a statement of dissatisfaction and will just write the restaurant off for a second visit. If you are very unhappy with the food or service in a restaurant let the staff know. .At the very least they should remove an unsuccessful dish from your bill. There was a happy ending to the story, we discovered a restaurant with an interesting menu about 600 meters away and had a wonderful meal there, albeit without the Brouillade.

Pappardelle and shavings from Perigord truffles.

That is a how a large addition of Perigord truffle may be seen.

Photograph courtesy of Edsel Little

https://www.flickr.com/photos/edsel_/6613819145/

L'Œuf de Marans Poché, Crème d'Oignons, Poêlée de Trompettes de la Mort - A poached Marans egg served with cream of onions and lightly fried black chanterelle mushrooms, also called the black trumpet or horn of plenty mushroom.

L'Œuf de Marans, Burrata, Citron, Café et Champignons de Paris - A Maran egg served with Burrata cheese flavored with lemon and coffee and served with button mushrooms. Burrata is a fresh Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream; when the Burrata is sliced open, a spurt of thickened cream flows out. Here I imagine the cheese is being offered when mixed with coffee and lemon flavorings. Barratta on its own has a rich, buttery flavor. The Barratta offered here is must be made in France as this is a fresh cheese that is best when eaten within 24 hours.

You can buy Marans' eggs in the USA

Photograph courtesy of George Wesley and Bonita Dannells

Mousse d'Asperges aux Œufs de Poule de Marans et d'Escargot – An asparagus moose made with Marans eggs served with snails.

Œuf Mollet de Poule de Marans et Son Crémeux d'Asperges Vertes - A soft boiled Marans egg served with creamy green asparagus.

Œuf Pôché de Poule "Marans" aux Pleurotes - A poached Marans eggs served with oyster mushrooms.

In addition to Marans’ famous eggs there is much more:

Consider the fresh fish and seafood restaurants and the herb angelica.

Marans is famous among the lovers of fresh fish and seafood. They come from the coast and towns up to 50 km (32 miles) away to enjoy themselves in the town's many excellent fish and seafood restaurants. These restaurants offer the widest choices that are straight off the boats.

A really good seafood restaurant’s offerings.

This photograph is not from Marans, but in Marans, there is at least one similar display.

Photograph courtesy of Jay Galvin

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jaygalvin/8314614128/

Marans and Angelica

To add to the fish, seafood, chickens and eggs the area around the town of Marans is the center for the herb Angelique, Angelica. (Angelica is also called the Herbe des Anges, the Herb of the Angels).

A selection of Angelica products

Photograph courtesy of Niort Marais Poitevin Tourist Information Office

Angelica was brought to France by the Vikings and originally cultivated in their first large French settlement called Normandie, Normandy, (Normandie in old Norman French means “North Man’s Land” ). In French cuisine, the fresh leaves of Angelica may be added to salads, soups, fish dishes, vegetables dishes and fruit salads. Angelica will also be prepared candied, made into a confit, a jam (jelly), used in cakes and desserts and made into a liqueur. Angelica is also sold in French homeopathic pharmacies where they will suggest the herb for heartburn, intestinal gas, loss of appetite, arthritis, circulation problems and more. An Angelica tisane, a fusion or herbal tea may be offered in restaurants. N.B. The Vikings also imported their cows which developed into the Norman Cows so famous for their milk, butters, creme fraiche and cheeses that come from Normandy.

On a menu in Marans you may be offered an Angelica flavored dessert:

Croustillant de Fraises Gariguette à l'Angélique Confite Maison - Crisply cooked – Gariguette strawberries prepared with a home-made Angelique jam. Gariguette strawberries are a very tasty French strawberry that you will see fresh in the markets between April and May.

After the meal, for your digestif you may be offered The Angélique Eau-de-Vie which is a 40% alcohol liquor, made by macerating, steeping, the plant in Cognac. The best of these liquors is considered to be the Liqueur d'Angélique de Niort, from the town of Niort just 45 km (28 miles) away from Marans.

Fishing boats in Marans

Photograph courtesy of mariesophie Bock Digne

Where is Marans

Marans is in the department of Charente-Maritime, one of the four departments that until 31-12-2015 were part of the region of Poitou-Charentes and are the home of many excellent food products. These include most of France’s goat’s milk and many private branded goat’s cheeses as well as the Chabichou AOP goat’s milk cheese, superb melons and every bottle of Cognac sold anywhere in the world. To the agriculture, add some of France’s top rated oysters and excellent fish and seafood. Poitou-Charentes, Limousin and Aquitaine are included in the new super region of Nouvelle Aquitaine. Apart from wonderful foods, wines, Cognacs and cheeses there are hundreds of miles of open sandy beaches in Nouvelle Aquitaine. There are also managed beaches;where for a small or sometimes large contribution to the local economy, you may spend the day with private cabins, lounge chairs, umbrellas and hot and cold running food and drink merchants.

Marans and its canal.

As a fishing port, the Marans' fishing boats reach the Atlantic via the River Sèvre Niortais. In the 18th century, the port was also reached by the Canal de Marans à la Rochelle. (That canal is no longer navigable but with its wonderful flora and fauna it is a great place for walking and picnicking). The canal was started in 1806, but only opened in 1875; that was just in time for the trains to arrive as well! With the establishment of a local train service, the canal could not compete with the freight and passenger prices of the trains and quickly fell into disuse; the canal was closed after the Second World War.

N.B. France reorganized its mainland administrative regions, which are somewhat similar to States in the USA and or Counties in the UK. They hope, by so doing, to reduce excessive bureaucracy and administrative costs. Mainland France, which had 22 departments, now has 13. The change will not affect the foods in the regions, but for the visitor to France it may cause some confusion with local addresses in the short term.

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