Showing posts with label Auvergne. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Auvergne. Show all posts

Tomme de Savoie IGP and Cows’ Milk Tomme Cheeses.


 

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  

Tommes on sale.
Photograph courtesy of keepps
 
The first tomme.

In the days prior to refrigeration only cheese could save excess milk from being wasted. After the cheese or butter has been made the remaining liquid is the whey. The whey may also be used to make cheese. Voila, in the French Alps hundreds of years ago farmers produced the cheese called tomme, sometimes written as tome. Tomme cheeses are now on sale in nearly every supermarket in France,. 

The French Tommes today

Today, with the popularity of tomme cheeses, many French farmers and dairies make more money from  their tommes than from butter or other cheeses. Tommes are semi-hard cheeses and come with a variety of tastes and textures. The fat content of tommes vary with the food the cows eat. In the spring and summer the cows graze freely on the rich grasses in the Alps. In the  winter the cows eat the dried grasses that were collected in the same region. The breeds of cows that produce the milk will affect the final product as does the aging. The cheeses produced  are all tommes; however, there will be gentle variations in flavor,  texture and color. 

Most tomme cheeses are made from cow’s milk; however, most is not all. There are excellent French sheep’s milk and goat’s milk tommes available. However, goat and sheep milk tommes will require a separate post and more enjoyable experimentation.

Tomme de Savoie IGP


Tomme de Tomme de Savoie  at a farmers' market.
Photograph courtesy of tomxcody.
  
Tomme de Savoie IGP  is the most popular of all French tommes and its popularity is justified.  This tomme comes from the region of the Rhône-Alpes, from the departments of Savoie, Haut Savoie, and Ain. However, the Tomme de Savoie is not a single type of cheese. There is a Tomme de Savoie IGP made with whole milk and 45% fat. Other Tommes de Savoie are made with the more traditional recipe, only using the whey, and  they have 20-40% fat. Progress in the science of cheese production has also brought us a  5% low fat Tomme de Savoie IGP. The IGP after the name is a Pan-European certification and guarantees that the product was  made in a particular area. With the Tomme de Savoie IGP there will be no other European tommes from other areas, even in the Alps, using that name.
   
 I have never had a bad Tomme de Savoie cheese, but as I noted they are not all the same. A cheese made from the milk collected from freely grazing cows during the summer in the Alps will have a higher fat content. In the winter the pate may be gray and in the summer ivory to light yellow.  In the winter, the  cows are kept in barns and fed hay made from  the grasses gathered in their Alpine pastures; however,  the cheese will be lower in fat. The best Tomme de Savoie I ever tasted was one we bought at a farmers’ market in the town of Annecy in the Savoie. This was a farm-made cheese  and to purchase the exact same cheese,  I would have had to track down the farmer. Most of the Tommes de Savoie that are on sale all over France are made in dairies and have tastes and textures that vary less.  However, even in dairies the milk from different seasons have their affect on the taste and texture. Look on the packaging for the fat content you prefer.  In a good fromagerie, a cheese shop, they often allow you to taste a sliver or two of different cheeses. Then you may buy with more knowledge and learn more about the differences in the wonderful Tommes de Savoie IGP.
  
Tomme Fermier
   
Tommes fermier are farm-made cheeses; some are called tommes de montagne, mountain tommes. The name tomme originated across the mutual French, Swiss and Italian  borders and in Italy there are different cheeses called toma; possibility the origin of the word tomme.
 
 Cheeses made in a similar manner have long been made all over France; outside of the Savoie they were formerly just called farm cheeses. Now most of these similar cheeses are called tommes as the farmers found that sells better.  The grass the cattle graze on will be different to that of the Savoie and the breeds of cows who produce the milk  will be different.  However, the cheeses are all made in the same manner. Wherever you are in France you will find locally popular tommes with slightly different tastes.  For more information on buying cheese in France and taking it home click here.
   


A wedge from a  tomme.
Photograph courtesy of Salim Virji.
  
Tomme Laitier
   
Tommes made in dairies use the same regional name as the cheese produced on farms. The dairies are more able to control and repeat the taste and texture from each group of cheeses. However, to insure the consumer can identify between dairy and farm-made cheeses there are controls.  Dairy-made cheeses have a red disk inserted in the cheese and farm-made cheeses have a green disk. These disks cannot be seen from the outside, but their existence prevents fraud.
  
The size of Tomme Cheeses
  
There is no unified weight or size for tomme cheeses; however, the smallest cheese I have seen was  about 12cm (5”) across and 6cm (2.35”) high.  It weighed just about one kilo. (35 ounces).  Other cheeses may weigh up to 4 kilos.
    
Aging
   
The aging of a tomme is a critical part of the process.  The aging is carried out by professionals who spend their lives aging cheeses.  In the Alps these professional have above or below ground cellars called fruitières.   From each group of cheeses, they identify those that will only need one month of aging and others that will require three or four months or more at different temperatures and degrees of humidity.
   
Tommes  are now made all over France.
  
Tomme de Provence.
Photograph courtesy of John Picken.
   
An example of tommes made a long way away from the Alps are those made in the department of Ariège in the Midi-Pyrenees. Here, farm-made tommes are produced  high up in the Pyrenean pastures. If you are in that area of France in late July or the beginning of August consider watching the judging of the Pyrenean farmers’  best farm-made unpasteurized milk tomme cheeses. You may also taste these Pyrenean Tommes and enjoy local dishes made with them or buy one to take home. For the Midi-Pyrénees tomme cheese making competition contact:

The Tourism Office in the town of Saint-Girons.
The French language website of Saint Girons is: http://www.tourisme-stgirons-stlizier.fr/en/
Google and Bing translation make the website easily readable in English.

Even better, contact the French Government Tourist Office in your home country before departure and make sure the dates are correct.

Tommes from the Auvergne and Languedoc- Roussillon.
   
In the Auvergne, there are two excellent Auvergnat dishes made with local tommes. The most famous is Aligot, many of which are made with a local tomme  and mashed potatoes. The second is called a Truffade and made with thinly sliced potatoes fried in goose fat and mixed with a local tomme just before serving. Aligots, made with local tommes are also  on the menu in the department of Lozère in Languedoc-Roussillon and elsewhere.


 Aligot being served in a restaurant. 
Photograph courtesy of Tavallai.
  
Other countries have cheeses made with whey using different recipes.
That includes the Italian Ricotta.

Connected Posts:
 
    


Other French cheeses with posts published by Behind the French Menu:
  


 
 
 


 

   
                     

 

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010,2015.
 

Cantal AOP and Salers AOP. Two of France’s Best Cow’s Milk Cheeses.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


Wheels of the Salers AOP and Cantal AOP Cheeses.
Also called the Fourme de Salers AOP and the Fourme de Cantal AOP
Each wheel weighs between 35 to 45 kilos (77 to 100 lbs).

Cantal AOP and Salers AOP.

The French word fourme, part of the name of many other French cheeses, comes from the Latin word for the shape. Fourme was also the old French word for cheese before fromage became accepted; the Italian word for cheese, Formaggio, has the same Latin origin.

The Cantal and Salers cheeses are both 30% fat, yellow, semi-hard, cows' milk cheeses, made with milk from the Salers breed of cattle. Both cheeses are produced in Cantal, one of the four departments in the Auvergne region that since 1-1-2016 is part of the super region called the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Both cheeses claim origins that go back 2,000 years to when the Romans occupied much of France. The cheeses' true origins may not go back to the Roman Empire, but certainly, they go back a few hundred years, and coming from the milk of a single breed of cows indicates that they developed together.

Cantal AOP

The Cantal cheese has two versions, a farm produced version called a Cantal Fermier made with unpasteurized milk, and a dairy produced version called a Cantal Laitier made with pasteurized milk. Cantal AOP, in both farm and dairy versions, comes in three age groups.


Wheels of Cantal AOP at their three ages.

Jeune or Doux  Young and mild. The youngest cheese and it will have been matured from one to three months; it has an ivory color and a mild, slightly nutty flavor.

Entre Deux  Between the two. A cheese matured for 3 to 6 months, now turning yellow and tasting somewhat like a mild cheddar.

Vieux – Old. The Vieux Cantal will have been matured for at least six months. It begins with a taste somewhat similar to the taste of mature cheddar, and after nine months to a year or even older, it will be very different with a texture somewhat similar to Parmesan but with a much stronger taste.

Cantal Vieux
www.flickr.com/photos/julienfour/26280943128/


The Salers AOP is one of only two French cheeses that for their AOP label that not only must come from free grazing in the high pastures, but the cheese itself must be made there. When the cows that produce the Salers AOP cheese are brought down from their mountain pastures, their milk cannot be used for the Salers AOP cheese.
   
Salers AOP

Taking Cantal AOP and Salers AOP home.
  
Buy your Cantal AOP in a Fromagerie, a specialist cheese shop. If they have regular customers who buy Cantal, they will offer at least two options. Then, if you look like a serious customer, you may be offered a sliver of each; if you are lucky, you may be offered a sliver from a Salers AOP to compare. However, from my experience, Salers AOP is not always available, and at times you may have to check a number of cheese shops until you find some.

Taking home a kilo or two of a Cantal AOP or Salers AOP cheese is a worthwhile expense. Buy a wedge of freshly cut cheese and have it wrapped and then vacuum wrapped. Semi-hard cheeses travel for two or three days if kept out of direct heat. When you arrive home, keep the cheese in the refrigerator, not the freezer, wrapped in plastic wrap. Treat Cantal and Salers like cheddar or another semi-hard cheese. When you want to eat some of the cheese, cut off a wedge and wait an hour or so before eating. The rest wrap in plastic wrap and return to its closed box in the refrigerator. Cantal and Salers will keep well for one or two months, or at least until you have finished eating it. For the link to Buying Cheese in France and taking it home, click here.
     
Taking a whole Cantal AOP and Salers AOP cheese home will not be easy; both cheeses come in wheels that weigh between 35 to 45 kilos (77 to 100 lbs). There are smaller wheels of the Cantal AOP cheese, but will still create problems as EasyJet carry-ons. The smallest Cantal AOP wheel, called a Cantalet, weighs about 8- 10 kil0s (18 to 22 pounds), and the medium size, called the Petit Cantal, weighs between 16-20 kilos (34 to 24 lbs).
       

The names Cantal and Salers
  
The name Cantal is the name of a department in the Auvergne comes from the Monts du Cantal, the Cantal mountains, These mountains are set around an enormous extinct volcano in the center of the department. The village of Salers is at an altitude of 950 meters in the center of Cantal; it was once a medieval city and now is one of the most beautiful villages in all of France.

The cheese's other names, the Fourme de Salers AOP and the Fourme de Cantal AOP, are part of cheese history. French word fourme, which is part of the name of many other French cheeses, comes from the Latin word for the word shape. Fourme was also the old French word for cheese before fromage became accepted, and the Italian word for cheese, Formaggio, has the same Latin origin.
   
Visiting Cantal by train may take you over the Garabit Viaduct.
 The viaduct spans the River Truyère, near Ruynes-en-Margeride in the department of Cantal; it was built by.Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame.
www.flickr.com/photos/inra_dist/39045791381/

Cantal AOP and Salers AOP on French menus.
  
The Salers AOP is rarely seen on menus and then usually at the centerpiece of a cheese plate.  In Auvergne restaurants, your menu may offer:
   
Clafoutis Moelleux aux Cantal AOP – A soft clafoutis made with a crepe-like batter and Cantal AOP cheese. Whether a clafoutis should be considered a tart, flan or pie is much disputed.

Filet de Veau Cuit en Base Température, Jus de Moutarde, Croquette de Pomme de Terre au Cantal - A fillet veal of cooked slowly at a low temperature, served with a gravy made from the natural cooking juices and mustard, accompanied by potato croquettes made with Cantal cheese.
    
La Truffade du Cantal The truffade of Cantal is a traditional dish from the Auvergne. The truffade du Cantal is made of sliced potatoes cooked with Cantal cheese, flavored with bacon and garlic; all are cooked together and served like a cake. Occasionally this dish may be on the menu with Salers AOP.

A view of the village of Salers.
www.flickr.com/photos/pom-angers/32305918088/

Aligot d'Auvergne Saucisse et Salade de Printemps – Auvergne Aligot served with an Auvergne sausage and a spring salad. Aligot is one of the Auvergne's most popular dishes. The Auvergne Aligot is a young Cantal AOP or Tomme cheese blended with mashed potatoes garlic, crème fraîche, and milk and butter and olive oil. From personal experience on a cold winter's evening, after forty minutes in the freezing cold, while looking for a taxi and no time for lunch, the smell alone can be mistaken for the ambrosia of the gods. (The traditional Auvergne sausage is a small salami type sausage, about 100 grams, made with pork, pork fat, and beef; when served with Aligot, it is usually grilled. When this sausage is not served with Aligot, it may then be eaten uncooked like any salami type sausage). The spring salad accompanying the Aligot and sausage on the menu will include uncooked young vegetables, sprouts, and young vegetable shoots.

Traveling in Cantal and the Auvergne
  
Nearly all Frenchmen and women will have tried Cantal AOP and or the Salers AOP cheeses; however, few will have visited the beautiful department of Cantal. Cantal has a population of fewer than 150,000; that's just about 26 people per square km.
 
To find Cantal on a map of France, take a pin and point it at France's geographic center; that is the old region of Auvergne with the department of Cantal in the Auvergne's South-West; since 1-1-2016 is part of the new super-region of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Apart from these two AOP cheeses, Cantal has a third the Bleu d'Auvergne AOP  apart from many other excellent local cheeses. 

  The Auvergne on the map of France.
Cantal is department number 15.
    
Apart from a very large extinct volcanic massif in the center of the department of Cantal everywhere, there are green pastures, clean running rivers, and beautiful lakes. Those green pastures serve as grazing pastures for the Salers cows that produce the milk for the Cantal and Salers cheeses, but they become skiing centers in the winter. Those skiing areas reach high to the massif reaching over 1,800 meters. Cantal, like much of the region of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, is one of the most unspoiled parts of France.  

Skiing in Cantal in winter.
www.flickr.com/photos/mikelo/3141958582/
  
If you are visiting the Auvergne, consider taking their Route de Fromage, their cheese road; it includes the five AOP cheeses of the region. However, if you are near the town of Ambert, the home of the Bleu d'Auvergne in the department of Puy-de-Dôme, then stop by and visit the town's Maison de la Fourme d'Ambert et de Fromages d'Auvergne.  There, for a small contribution to the local economy, you may taste all five of the  Auvergne's AOP cheeses.     

Cantal AOP 
Salers AOP 

While in the department of Cantal or anywhere else in Auvergne for that matter, try their  Coq au Vin de Chanturgue – The original Coq au Vin, most chefs agree, that it was prepared with the Chanturgue AOC/AOP red wine of the Auvergne. For more about the original Coq au Vin, see the post: Coq au Vin, the Traditional Version is Much More Than Just a Chicken Stewed in Wine.
 
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2014, 2019
 
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