Macreuse de Bœuf - One of the Tastiest Steaks on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Macreuse de Bœuf.
Photograph courtesy of Gemini 

The steak, called a Macreuse à bifteck in French supermarkets will be Macreuse de Bœuf on most French menu listings and has no generally accepted English translation. This steak is flavorful and tasty but don’t order it well done; it’s best rare to medium rare (à point).  Ordering a macreuse de bœuf well done will bring you a piece of leather. If you want a good well-done steak order an entrecôte,  which will be more expensive but still edible when well done. There is no similar cut to a macreuse de bœuf on USA or UK menus, although it is available in the French-speaking part of Canada.

The macreuse à bifteck comes from the same area as the US and UK chuck, the shoulder, but the French cut the chuck very differently. Instead of cutting the chuck across and combining the different tastes and textures as a whole, the French cut each muscle separately, and the macreuse à biftek provides a steak with a bigger bang for the buck.  In French cooking schools’ fully qualified chefs have to learn nearly as much about the cuts of beef as a butcher to graduate, and in restaurants the French diners are knowledgeable; they expect flavorful cuts at reasonable prices and this steak fits the bill.

 

N.B. There are two macreuse cuts.
But only one is the macreuse à bifteck 

From talking to butchers in the USA, I learned that better cuts from the chuck are available.  They include the chuck tender steak, the shoulder petite tender and the chuck eye steak, and the flat-iron steak. However, none of my sources could offer me an English name for the French macreus à bifteck.

If you are staying in an Airbnb in France and want to cook this tasty steak while your in France, read the description carefully in the supermarket or butchers.  There is a second muscle called a macreuse à pot-au-feu, (seen in the diagram above), and that is a cut for stewing. 

Macreuse a Bifteck on French menus:

Macreuse de Bœuf, à l'Echalote et Poivre Vert  - A macreuse à biftek pepper steak prepared with shallots and green pepper.  Controlling the taste of a dish with black pepper is not easy, so when French chefs prepare a pepper steak, many prefer green pepper, which allows a controllable heat.  

 

Grilling Macreuse de Bœuf.

Photograph courtesy of Gemini

 

Macreuse de Bœuf Cuite 6h, Bacon de Sanglier des Bois et Champignons Sauvages - A macreuse à biftek steak slowly cooked for six hours and prepared with bacon from a wild boar from the woods and served with wild mushrooms. A steak like this will have been seared on the outside and the allowed to cook at a low temperature for over six hours; the result will be a steak with all the flavor locked in and a texture that will almost melt in your mouth. 

     Sanglier - France farm-raises wild boar that is available all year round but this menu listing tells the diner that this is wild boar from the woods and real wild boar have a much stronger flavor than their farm-raised cousins and wild boar’s bacon is very different.  Real wild boar are only available in the hunting season; thought that season last seven months and as their populations are growing they are considered a pest.

      Unfortunately, wild boars do not just stay in the woods and forests that cover over 25% of the mainland. At night the wild boar wander out, and in addition to eating the crops in the fields they also tear the grapes from vines and eat them. This is France abd you can't expect the French to be happy if someone is consuming the source of their wines.   

      The hunting season for real wild boar begins in June in most areas.]Apart from causing damage to farmers they cause over 30,000 car accidents every year, including over 20 fatalities. 

      To ensure consumers about the safety of safety genuine wild boar meat every animal must have its meat tested in a government approved laboratory before it can be served in a restaurant or home.  The steak dish above, with its wild boar bacon and wild mushrooms, will be make a memorable dish.

      Champignons Sauvages - France has wonderful wild and cultivated mushrooms. Every wild mushroom has its season and the menu listing above may be on the menu for six or seven months a year with the wild mushrooms changing every three to four weeks as the season changes.  It’s worthwhile asking about the wild mushrooms on the menu, as you may enjoy mushrooms rarely seen at home. Three of the most popular wild mushrooms are:

     The Bolet– The Weeping Bolet Mushroom.  From the end of April through September, the Weeping Bolet mushrooms are so bountiful they will be in nearly every French market and supermarket and on many menus.

     The Cèpe - The French Porcini Mushroom. The cèpe or penny bun is found in France’s many pine forests and between early August and mid October will be on many menus. menus. 

      Chanterelle Girolle - The Chanterelle Mushrooms.   The chanterelle mushroom family has a long season (depending on the weather) from July through October.  

 

Wild boar crossing sign

Be careful when driving in the French countryside.

 

Macreuse de Bœuf, Légumes Racines Confits – A macreuse de bœuf,  steak accompanied by root vegetables that have been slowly cooked with a slightly sweetened wine or balsamic vinegar.  

       Root vegetables-  In North America and the UK, root vegetables are often overlooked or consigned to soups with only the celebrity chefs taking them out of the heirloom vegetable cupboard.  In France from the smallest restaurant to the bistros and brassieres to three-star Michelin Guide restaurants parsnips, (panais), turnips (navets), and swedes (chou-navets or rutabaga) will be on many menus, these are tasty vegetables and a welcome change to the ubiquitous peas, green beans, and carrots.

 

Macreuse de Bœuf Sauce au Poivre et Whisky, Salade Composée, Vinaigrette au Cidre et Frites – A macreuse de bœuf,steak prepared in a pepper and whisky sauce served with a salad with a cider vinaigrette and French fries. 

      Whisky - Scotland, Canada and Japan produce whisky spelled without the ‘e,' but so does France. So if you are a whisky maven ask for more information on this menu listing. 

 

Macreuse de Bœuf, Sauce Béarnaise Purée de Panais et

     Legumes Grillé – A macreuse de bœuf, served with Sauce Béarnaise accompanied by pureed parsnips and grilled vegetables. Sauce Béarnaise has been topping France and the world's sauce popularity polls for nearly two-hundred years. It is one of the few sauces that may be served with steaks and roasts as well as salmon and vegetables whether cold or hot.

     Sauce Bearnaise: In 1830 the chef Louis Françoise-Collinet took the recipe for Sauce Hollandaise, omitted the lemon juice and added white wine vinegar, shallots, and the herbs chervil (cerfeuil) and tarragon (estragon) and created Sauce Béarnaise. It's the tarragon and white wine vinegar that supplies the tang that creates Sauce Béarnaise devotees.  The name Béarnaise may seem to indicate that the sauce comes from the old province of Béarn, once part of the independent kingdom of Navarre that straddled the Pyrenees and had one border in Spain and the other in France. While Navarre had many recipes of its own none were related to Sauce Béarnaise. Nevertheless, when the chef Collinet named the sauce, he did have Béarn and Navarre on his mind. His restaurant near Paris was called The Pavillon Henry IV, and Henry IV of France, was, before assuming that title, had been Henry III of Navarre and Prince of the Principality of Béarn in Navarre. When Henry became King of France he brought Navarre into France.

Steak Tatare is often made with the macreuse à biftek
Photograph courtesy of Hotel du Vin & Bistro
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hdv-gallery/7138285281/

Macreuse

      Be careful when looking up macreuse  in a French-English dictionary.

     Most dictionaries translate macreuse as the scooter sea duck. Members of the scooter duck family may be hunted one month a year, though its vary rare to see one on a restaurant menu.

      In 1870 Alexander Dumas (père)  the author of the Three Musketeers and the Count of Monte Cristo and four hundred other works published his over one-thousand-page Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, his grand dictionary of cuisine.  (Dumas had  a second life as a  well known gourmand  and amateur cook apart from his writing). You can his read dictionary, more  a book or recipe and food stories, on line or download (at a very low cost) the original at the French National Library (BnF). (I have seen an out-of-print English language selection from Dumas’s dictionary available second-hand on Amazon: Dumas on Food: by Alan and Jane Davison).

   

 

Scoter (macreuse) ducks.
Scoters are sea ducks but they are also found in freshwater lakes and rivers close to the sea.
Photograph courtesy of Jean-Marie Van der Maren
www.flickr.com/photos/jmvdmaren/10316987185/

 

      If you living in France and want to prepare this tasty steak read the description in the supermarket or at the butchers carefully.  There is a second cut called a macreuse à pot-au-feu which as its name describes is for stewing.  A traditional pot-au-feu includes beef, marrow bones (á la moelle ), carrots (carottes). turnips (navets), leeks (poireaux), celery (céleri), onions (oignons), potatoes and herbs.  One of the cuts of beef in a pot-au-feu will always be the macreuse à pot-au- feu. Pot-a-feus may be on menus as Baeckeoffes, Garbures and other local names where the ingredients are often pork with beef added as an afterthought.

 

      If you have a butcher that not only sells pre-packaged beef, ask what other cuts, they offer from the whole chuck, and not just the all-inclusive chuck steak. Who knows, you may have found someone who knows how to cut good and inexpensive steaks from the chuck.

 

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by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2018, 2023, 2024, 2025.

 

 

Paleron – A French cut from the center of a shoulder of beef or veal and occasionally pork

  from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 
The Paleron 
A French cut from the center of the shoulder for beef, veal, pork.
(In the USA and UK this cut is often called flat iron or top blade).

     

Braised beef daube in red wine.
Crispy onions, green beans, horseradish and puree potatoes.
Photograph courtesy of Nikki Tysoe
www.flickr.com/photos/fimbrethil/8019717298/

The paleron is a flavorful cut from the center of the shoulder and a cornerstone of French cuisine, most often destined for succulent daubes and hearty stews. When well cooked, the meat’s full, rich flavor shines through in a way no grilled or fried dish can replicate. Good restaurants, by highlighting the origins of their beef and the specific cuts they offer, cultivate a loyal clientele who appreciate attention to detail and the addition of high-quality dishes to the menu.

 

Cuts from a paleron.
The USA top blade, or flat-iron.
In the UK  the top blade or feather blade,

There’s a lot of confusion when it comes to comparing French, UK, and US beef shoulder cuts. In the UK and US, the whole shoulder area is generally called “the chuck,” covering cuts like chuck roasts, steaks, blade roasts, chuck eye roasts, flat iron steaks, and various other shoulder pieces.

The paleron, specifically, corresponds to US cuts usually called the top blade or flat iron. While the paleron can certainly be prepared as steaks, in France this cut is almost always reserved for slow-braised or stewed beef and veal dishes, and occasionally for pork recipes. The paleron is prized for its unique texture and rich flavor, which develops beautifully with long, gentle cooking. 

Paleron on French Menus :

Ravioles de Paleron de Bœuf, Toast de Moelle et Mousseline de Carottes à l’Orange, Émulsion Réglisse – Ravioles are delicate, small, square ravioli that originated in France’s historic Dauphiné region. This dish features them filled with slow-cooked beef (typically from a daube or stew), served with bone marrow toast, an orange-infused carrot mousse, and a creamy licorice sauce.

      The Dauphiné region: Eight hundred years ago, this was an independent state in the southeast of what is now France, ruled by Counts under the banner of the Holy Roman Empire who bore the title Dauphin. Toward the end of the 14th century, the rulers of the Dauphiné sold their lands and titles to the King of France—perhaps an offer they simply couldn’t refuse! As a result, the dauphiné, dolphin, which was the symbol on their flag, became both the hereditary title of the eldest son of the French king and a prominent part of his royal standard.

 

The standard (flag) of the French King’s eldest son,

the Dauphiné.

 

      During the French Revolution, the province of Dauphiné was divided into three departments: Drôme and Isère (both in the then-Rhône-Alpes region, now part of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes) and the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence (in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur). Later, some of the former province's lands were also incorporated into the Rhône department, which is likewise within the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.

Other dishes from the region include:

Pommes de Terre Dauphine: Deep-fried potato croquettes made from a mixture of mashed potatoes and choux pastry.

Gratin Dauphinois: A classic dish of baked, thinly sliced potatoes, slow-cooked in milk and cream, and flavored with nutmeg, garlic, thyme, and shallots. It's typically browned under the grill, often with Gruyère or Parmesan cheese.

      (N.B. Don't confuse dishes with the name Darphin with those named Dauphine.) 

 

Brochettes De Paleron De Bœuf Marinées – Skewers of marinated beef from the paleron.

 

Le Paleron De Bœuf Irlandais Aux Champignons, Pressé De Céleri, et Carottes Confites -   A classic beef stew, prepared with Irish beef, button mushrooms, and Lard de Poitrine Fumé  (smoked bacon from the belly), served with pressed celery and carrot confits. (The French recognize the high quality of Irish beef and it will be on many menus).

     Champignons:  Cultivated button mushrooms better known in France as the Champignon de Paris were the first mushroom to be cultivated and grown commercially.

      Lard and Bacon: A Culinary Confusion. The words "bacon" and "lard" in French and English have certainly created a few linguistic speed bumps for English speakers visiting France for the first time.

     This confusion dates back a thousand years to 1066, when William the Conqueror arrived from Normandy and conquered England. The Norman-French cooks serving William's barons brought significant changes to the English kitchen's lexicon. The word "bacon" in English and the word "bacun" in Old French initially referred to any type of pork (both words share a common Germanic origin).

      Over time, however, "bacon's" meaning in both languages evolved to align with what it signifies today: smoked, salted, or dried meat from the back, sides, or belly of a pig.

      In a similar manner, the French word "lard" was introduced into the English language where it originally encompassed both pig fat and a type of cured pork though in English it now now only refers to pig fat. (It’s from this broader meaning that we get the English verb “to lard,” meaning to insert strips of fat into meat.)

      Then, in the 13th century, the French began using the word "saindoux" (pronounced san-doo) specifically for rendered pig fat. Today, lard witll rarely indicate pig fat on a French menu. Instead, on French menus, you'll often find "bacon" and "lard" used interchangeably to denote what English speakers call bacon. So, lard on a French menu means bacon and not pig fat.

  

Paleron de Bœuf Servi Avec son Jus, Risotto aux Truffes et Croûtons de Pain - Braised paleron (beef from the Flat Iron), served in its rich natural cooking juices, served with a fragrant truffle risotto with croutons."

      Truffe/s :  Truffles have the unique ability to flavor food, and unfortunately, the very best are scarce and in demand, so they are also expensive.

     When ordering a dish with truffles, remember that too little is a waste of whatever you pay.  Other diners with whom I discussed truffles view their effect on a dish in different ways, but everyone agrees that truffles do add to the flavor and aroma, but require a certain quantity, a critical mass of flavor, to work their magic. The very best truffles are added to dishes, uncooked and in front of the diner.   

     In this dish the truffle is not named and that indicates a less intense truffle. In all probability this is the Truffe d'Été, the Summer Truffle or Black Summer Truffle, a lightly scented truffle and one of the least expensive.  (This truffle is also called the Truffe de la St Jean d'Été). The summer truffle needs to be used in quantity and in a risotto that works well. It is available fresh from May- through mid-October. If the truffle used were one of the more famous French truffles such as Truffe de Périgord, the Perigord truffle (tuber melanosporum) or the Truffe de Bourgogne, the Burgundy truffle (tuber uncinatum) the name will be on the menu listing and the price will be 200% higher.

      Different French truffles are available throughout the year, each with a season of only three or four months. In your travels around France, you may plan ahead and find truffle fêtes and celebrations that coincide with your visit.  

     Croutons: Pieces of toasted or fried bread, often cubed and seasoned and used to add texture and flavor to dishes like salads, soups, and casseroles. They can be made from various types of bread, including white, whole meal or sourdough.

 

Paleron de Bœuf à la Crème d’Échalotes

et Risotto aux Topinambours

A braised beef paleron prepared with cream of shallots

 and a Jerusalem artichoke risotto.

Photograph courtesy of La Viande Francais.

 

Paleron de Bœuf Charolais Braise Doucement au Four, Jus au Poivre de Java, Legumes Glaces, Galette de Patate Douce.  

      A paleron from the Charolais AOP beef slowly braised in the oven with its natural gravy flavored with the cubeb pepper and served with glazed vegetables and a sweet potato galette.

     Poivre de Java also called Le Cubèbe or Poivre à Queue – Cubeb Pepper or Tailed Pepper. This pepper has a distinct flavor best described as a mix of black pepper and cloves, with a slightly fruity and tangy taste. Cubeb looks quite similar to black peppercorns to which it is related, but with a distinctive feature: a small stalk or "tail" usually remains attached to the dried berry and accounting for the name "tailed pepper."

 

Cubeb pepper

 

      Like its relative the peppercorn, cubeb pepper grows on vines.  It’s picked while still green but it will be sold when sun dried and then its color ranges from grayish brown to black, inside the seed is hard, white and oily.       In France Poivre de Java is sometimes confused with long pepper, correctly called Poivre Long and the type of Long Pepper grown in Java is Poivre Long de Java.  Long Pepper is coming back into fashion in France as its name sounds interesting and will enliven some menus. Long Pepper has a stronger bite than ordinary black peppercorns and consists of many minuscule fruits, each about the size of a poppy seed, embedded in the surface of a flower spike, so its look is often compared to catkins.

Galettes:  The term galette can refer to various types of flat crêpes, or pancakes in French cuisine. Outside of the crêperie context, a galette can also mean a flat, round, free-form cake or patty, often made from grated or mashed vegetables or potatoes, cooked like a pancake or fritter.

 

Paleron de Porc aux Légumes de Saison – A slow-cooked pork paleron served with fresh seasonal vegetables.”

  

    

Salade de paleron de bœuf

 

Le Paleron De Veau Français Confit À Basse Température Jets De Houblon, Garniture Maraichère – A French veal paleron confit (slowly cooked at a low temperature), served with hop shoots and market garden vegetables.

         Confit: The word confit comes from the French verb confire, meaning “to preserve” or “to cook slowly in fat.” Traditionally, confit referred to duck or goose slowly cooked in in its own fat at a low temperature, resulting in tender, flavorful meat that would be preserved under the fat produced while cooking.

      However, in modern French cooking, the meaning of confit has broadened. It often simply means meat that has been slowly cooked at a low temperature—à basse température—sometimes with fat, sometimes without. This slow-cooking process breaks down connective tissues and produces tender, juicy meat.

      Garniture Maraichère -  Une maraîchère is a “market gardener,”  and on French menu listings Garniture Maraichère has evolved into an adjective meaning “of the market garden” or “garden-style.”  Now, it’s a classic term referring to a garnish or accompaniment of mixed fresh garden vegetables—often carrots, peas, turnips, green beans, asparagus tips, etc.

-----------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Copyright 2010, 2017, 2019, 2025.

--------------------------- 

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases

on

French menus?

 

Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" and search with Google. Behind the French Menu’s links include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.

---------------------------------

Connected Posts:

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