Napoléon III and Margarine .


Napoleon III and Margarine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


                    

    For the visitor to France Emperor Napoléon III’s most well-known works are the rebuilding of the center of Paris.  Acting under the orders of Napoléon III  a new center of Paris was built under the direction of Georges-Eugène Haussmann; for that incredible work, which remains  the Paris center you see today, Georges-Eugène Haussmann would be made Baron Haussmann by Napoléon III.






                  
Photograph by courtesy of Dominique Pipet.
                       
Emperor Napoléon III


    Haussmann also directed the creation of Paris’s sewers, a very important work; that made the air of Paris breathable.  Today when in Paris you may visit part of those sewers; it is an interesting one hour educational tour and not at all smelly.

                     
Napoléon III and Margarine.
                         

B = Beurre, Butter ,
 
I prefer butter to margarine, because I trust cows more than I trust chemists.

  

From: This Organic Life 2001.
  

Joan Dye Gussow, Organic food guru and author.
    

    Not too well remembered by the French is that Emperor Napoléon III was also responsible for a competition to create a butter substitute, and that competition produced margarine. If you remind a Frenchman or French woman of that disaster they are likely to walk off with a pooff! You may lose friend.

                           

    Despite the disagreements that still exist over margarine and butter in those pre-refrigeration days there was a true need for a butter substitute that did not quickly turn rancid like butter.  Napoléon III’s armies and navy urgently need  a transportable fat, and Napoléon III’s  solution was a scientific competition. The competition was won by a French chemist Hippolyte Mège-Mouriès (1817-1880).  Mège-Mourièss’ invention involved mixing processed beef fat with skimmed milk; the successful chemist patented his invention in 1869. In 1871 the inventor sold his patent to a Dutch company that later would become part of  the company Unilever.





            
Photo courtesy of  Meddy Garnet,

                                   
White Margarine from Quebec, Canada
                                        

    Getting margarine to look like butter was another problem. In the beginning many countries passed laws that banned the coloring of margarine.  The last law that prohibited the adding of coloring  to the originally white margarine was only repealed in the province of Quebec, Canada in 2008. I know of none others.


            

    Napoléon III also gave the order for the rebuilding of Les Halles, then the central Paris food market.  Of all Napoléon III's major works Les Halles with its bronze and glass decor is no more; Les Halles  was relocated, in 1969, to a much larger area in Rungis to the south of Paris. The Les Halles métro station indicates the general area where the market  was, and  a number of restaurants that were made famous by the onion soup they served in the Les Halles market have remained there.  Some of those original restaurants still offer service 24/7; however from experience, onion soup is not always available 24 hours a day. The modern, huge, food market of Rungis, outside Paris may be visited by bus or metro, and there are multi-lingual guided tours for professionals, as well as tourists.





          
Photograph courtesy of Mike Fitzpatrick
                                          
The Empress Eugenie.
                  

   Napoléon III final blunder was not  margarine, though if he had not lost a war I believe there is possibility that the French may have exiled him for promoting the invention of  margarine. 


   The final blunder of Napoléon III  was being drawn by the Prussian Bismarck into a stupid war; a war that neither Napoléon nor France wanted; that war was a result of what we now call diplomacy .  Napoléon III rode to that war on horseback, at the head if his armies, he rode like a story book King; on the 2nd September 1870 Napoléon III was captured by the Prussians and imprisoned in Germany.  In Paris, two days later France announced the creation of the third French Republic and deposed Napoléon III and exiled him to England.  That Franco-Prussian war, and other events led, eventually, to a single a united German State and onwards to WWI.

                         

    In exile in the UK Emperor Napoléon III  and the Empress Eugénie was already well accepted by the British Royal family the result of the end of the British-French wars and mutual head-of-state visits from before Napoléon III's exile.  Empress Eugénie was a already a favorite of Queen Victoria, and since Napoléon III  had spent three years in the United States, when he had then been exiled there, from France, for his early revolutionary activities, he spoke English well. Napoléon III died, in England, in 1873, not from an excess of margarine, but rather from a botched medical operation to remove gall stones.  Napoléon III’s crypt, in England, was paid for by Queen Victoria.

      
Napoléon III is buried in the crypt, behind the high altar, in the Benedictine Abbey of Saint Michael's, Farnborough, Hampshire, England.  Here, I am including  an correction,  much appreciated,  from an anonymous reader: Napoléon's only wife, the Empress Eugénie, who died aged 94 in Madrid, Spain, in 1920  is not buried beside her husband, rather behind and above the altar of the chapel in the crypt.  Buried in the crypt across from Napoléon lies Napoléon Eugène Bonaparte (1856- 1879), Napoléon's and Eugénie' s only son. Napoléon Eugène  is called Napoléon IV or  the Prince Imperial by the still active French Bonapartist's.  Napoléon Eugène died, at age 23, fighting with the British Army in the Zulu wars in South Africa and is buried in the crypt across from his father.  
          
   






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Farine - Flour. The flour in your French bread, crepes, and other delights.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   
Field of Wheat
    
Farine on French menus.

Farine is flour, but this is not a post on cooking with different flours or baking bread, that is not the purpose of the blog.  The blog and its posts are taken from my book on French cuisine. The book is written for those who enjoy French dining but prefer to leave the cooking to others. The types of flour in this post include those you may see on menu-listings. Some of the other names you may see on bread in supermarkets and boulangeries. This post explains the differences in usage and where I can, the tastes.
    
Flour
www.flickr.com/photos/xopher/469973977/
     
There are many flours and seeds behind French bread, risottos, pasta, and stews, so many that I could never remember them all. With all the information I collected, I made a list of those that I think are important. When a French menu listing includes the word farine, flour, this post will help.


For the Different Types of French Bread click here.
 
French chefs use the many different flours to create the widest range of tastes and textures. Other flours have specific purposes like gluten-free flours.  It is the many choices that make life interesting

In the beginning.

A very long ago someone discovered that wild wheat could be used to make beer. Then, along the way, someone else found that wheat could be ground into flour and that flour could be made into bread.  Over 4,000 years ago the Egyptians used yeast, definitely for beer, as well as for bread. Soon after the Egyptian discoveries the Mediterranean sea-going wholesalers the Phoenicians sold the secrets to the Greeks and Romans.  The Phoenicians were already trading with Mediterranean France, and somewhere down the timeline, France learned the secret of cultivating wheat and making bread.  The grains included early types of wheat such as Épeautre and Petit Épeautre, Spelt and Small Spelt. Those grains are not usually in the bread you buy in French supermarket and boulangeries.  Nevertheless, in France, these grains will be on menus in Provencal dishes, and in a few local breads and beers in Provence.
   
Spelt Bread
www.flickr.com/photos/adactio/34949605/
 
Over thousands of years, the method of making bread did not change very much. The shapes may have changed, the grains may have changed, but the technique of bread making did not change until the 17th century. Still, in the early 19th century, for many of the European poor, corn (maize), bread along with soups made from bones, and any gathered herbs and vegetables was all that they had to eat. The constant famines and changes in the price of bread were important to the peasants who supported the French revolution. (The French revolution itself was led by the rising middle class with help from above and below).


The white, enriched, flour in our white bread today is devoid of bran and much more. Enriched bread with added vitamins does not come close to replacing what is taken out. One hundred and fifty years ago those who relied on bread for food, would have died of malnutrition with today's white bread.
 
By the 17th century, the French were very much among the leaders in the development of different flours. Then the intention was to change the way bread would taste.  Only in the first part of 20th-century flour were the vitamins, proteins, fiber and complex carbohydrates understood. By the middle of the 20th-century changes in production removed many of the things that made bread the staff of life, but it gave us white bread. Today, we may receive the essential proteins, bran, and vitamins from the other foods we eat, not from bread.
  
The flours of France:

Farine d'Amande  - Almond flour. The Romans brought almond trees to France. They introduced dishes made with almonds and that included almond flour. Almonds are used in many French dishes including French Marzipan which is made with almond paste and almond flour.
     
Almond lavender biscotti
www.flickr.com/photos/mccun934/4393374961/
     
Farine d'Avoine - Oat flour. Oat flour is gluten-free. Mixed with regular wheat flour, it produces a unique flavor used in pastries.
 
Farine d'Orge - Barley flour. Barley flour is a trendy alternative to wheat flour, but unlike many non-wheat flours, it contains some gluten
 
Farine Biologique, Farine Bio –  Organic flour from organically raised wheat.  Any additives to this flour must be must be 95% organic. French and EU organic regulations are much stricter than those in the USA or Canada.
    
Farine Complète Whole-wheat flour.
 
Farine de Blé, Farine de Blé Blanche, Farine de Blé Enrichie Blanchie    The enriched wheat flour in the white bread on 80% of French breakfast tables.  The flour is bleached so that we will like the color of our bread. This is the wheat flour that all the flour mills want you to buy.  Wheat begins as whole wheat that is full of many important things, but most of them are removed to bring us white bread.
 
Farine de Blé Entier or Farine de Blé Complet  - Whole-wheat or wholemeal flour. .Bis - Wholemeal bread or flour.  The word biscuit is old French, and the word bis today is used for wholemeal flour while the word cuit means cooked; so bis cuit means cooked flour and that it is, it will produce a biscuit. Whole-wheat flour is made from grains that have not undergone heavy processing and is used in baking bread and other baked goods when mixed with lighter bleached flours.
   
An old flour millstone in France.
   
Farine de Blé Noir, Farine de Sarrasin or Blé Noir – Buckwheat flour. This flour has a distinctive, mild, nutty taste.  The darker color comes from the seed’s coating.  When some of the buckwheat seed's coating is left in the flour that gives the flour its color. Buckwheat is gluten-free. The French name for buckwheat flour, Farine de Sarrasin stretches back to the crusades. 
   
During the crusades, the French first met up with the dark-skinned Saracen warriors and also were introduced to their dark buckwheat flour.  They took the flour home and among the flour’s various names is the name of their Saracen foes; today that would not be politically correct. The galettes de blé noir,crêpes, pancakes of buckwheat flour, are traditional in Bretagne, Brittany.   Buckwheat flour is in use all over France. (Japanese soba noodles are buckwheat noodles). 
                                 
Photograph by RazvanPhotograph through YayMicro.com
             
Farine de Châtaignes - Chestnut flour. Naturally, gluten-free chestnut flour will be in cakes, gnocchi, and desserts. The Farine de Châtaigne Corse, the Corsican chestnut flour, is the only chestnut flour with an AOC.  
   
Farine de Froment or Farine de Blé Tendre  Wheat flour. The flour one step before it becomes bleached and enriched all-purpose flour.  The second name noted here, Farine de Blé Tendre translates as soft wheat flour. That name points to the difference between this flour and harder wheat flours like those made with durum wheat; the hard durum wheat is used in the best pasta.
  
Farine de Graines de Tournesol - Sunflower seed flour is a nut-free replacement for almond flour and a favorite for those with nut allergies.  

Sunflower.
Inside the petals are all the seeds.
www.flickr.com/photos/70626035@N00/7694081344/
 
Farine de  Maïs or more correctly Semoule de Maïs Cornflour. Cornflour was brought to Europe by the conquistadors.  Corn, the plant adapted very well in Europe and saved millions from death during the constant European famines.  The corn fed the people, and the rest of the plant was fodder for their animals during the winter.
 
Farine de Pois Chiches  - Chickpea flour, garbanzo wheat flour or gram flour.  Chickpea flour is behind Socca or Socca Niçoise. Socca is a hot and crispy chickpea pancake made with chickpea flour. It is the quintessential street food of Nice on the Cote d'Azur. Chickpeas are also behind that wonderful Middle Eastern food hummus.
  
Farine de Pomme de Terres.  - Potato flour. Potato flour is made from whole potatoes. The flour is a dense, cream-colored flour with a distinct potato flavor and gluten-free. More often the part of a potato used in French cuisine is Fécule de Pomme de Terre, potato starch. Potato starch works well in recipes as it leaves no potato taste. When mixed with gluten-free flours, potato starch lends a light, fluffy texture
 
Farine de Quinoa - Quinoa flour began reaching French restaurant kitchens about 20 years ago.  Quinoa comes from the High Plateaus in South America, and despite quinoa not being a real cereal it is highly valued. Quinoa is gluten-free and rich in proteins, minerals, antioxidants, and vitamins.  Quinoa  is used by French chefs for its different taste and texture
  
Tri-color quinoa
www.flickr.com/photos/avlxyz/5074961668/
 
Farine de Sésame - Sesame flour.  A gluten-free enriched flour, rich in minerals and made from sesame seeds.  Sesame flour has a slightly sweet taste and is used as an alternative to almond flour.
 
Farine de Seigle – Rye flour. Rye is a grain related to both wheat and barley. Apart from flour rye is used some American whiskeys, some vodkas as well as being an important animal fodder.

Farine de Semoule – Semolina.  This is wheat flour made with the bran and the germ removed. In France semolina is often made with durum wheat and that makes for a light yellow flour. Whole durum flour is often used for making couscous.     From my childhood I only remember semolina in England as a warm, soft mush served with a blob of jam in the center; then it was one of the worst desserts served with school dinners.
Aile de Raie aux Câpres, Semoule de Blé – Skate, the fish, prepared with capers and served with wheat semolina. (see the appendix Fish  -  Raie).
Carré d'Agneau et Semoule aux Senteurs Orientales – A rack of lamb served with semolina prepared lightly flavored with oriental spices. (see the appendix Beef, Lamb and Veal : Agneau, Carré d'Agneau).
Gâteau de Semoule aux Fruits Secs – A semolina cake made with dried fruits.
  
Breads that have names not related to the flour used:

Pain au Son -  Bran Bread. Bran bread is made with regular flour with extra bran added.
 
Pain Campagrain – The name used for a high-fiber bread. Campagrain breads may use up to seven different grains. The grains include wheat, malted corn, rye, oats, barley as well as sunflower, sesame and flax seeds.     
  
Pain d'Épice   - Gingerbread.  There is no ginger flour to make gingerbread.  Gingerbread is made with ordinary wheat flour and ginger, the spice, is the flavor.
  
Gingerbread house.
www.flickr.com/photos/ckgolfsolutions/5249441587/

For more about French bread click here.  
     
Flour in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - farina  ), (Dutch - meel ), (German - mehl), (Italian - farina ), (Spanish - harina).
 
Connected Posts:
 
  
     
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

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