Rocamadour Goat’s Cheese, AOP and the Medieval city of Rocamadour.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

 
A farm made Rocamadour cheese.
The word fermier on the label indicates farm made cheeses.

Rocamadour or Cabécou de Rocamadour AOC/AOP, the cheese, is a 25% fat goat’s milk cheese, made with non-pasteurized milk. The cheese has a light ivory color, and is aged for a minimum of 12 days and then it is creamy and mild. A young Rocamadour, with its nutty flavor, may well be in your salad or part of another dish.  Older and mature Rocamadour AOP cheeses, with their stronger flavor, will be on the cheese board and the cognoscenti prefer the cheese when aged for a few months when it has a clear bite. 

If you are considering taking a Rocamadour cheese home, you will not be paying overweight; all Rocamadour AOP cheeses are small round cheeses weighing about 40 grams (1.40 ounces) each. For more information on buying French cheeses and taking them home click on this link to Buying Cheese in France and Taking it Home. (The cheese was initially known as the Cabécou de Rocamadour, but the Cabécou  is part of the name of other cheeses, and today it is plain Rocamadour).

The medieval city of Rocamadour is in the department of Lot in the region of Occitanie.  The new super region of Occitanie was created from the old regions of Midi-Pyrenees and Languedoc- Roussillon.   Then, on 1-1-2016,  France reduced its number of administrative regions from 22 to 13.
   
The Medieval City of Rocamadour.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lejournaldemaman/7110887787/

Rocamadour AOC/AOP

Farm-made Rocamadour Cheeses.
Photograph courtesy of Lafromagerie.
  
In local fromageries, cheese shops, you may see two types of this cheese, a Rocamadour Artisanal, and a Rocamadour Fermier. The first is made in communal dairies; the second is made by the farmer on his or her farm where the goats are milked.  Local cheese shops will stock young cheeses, just two-weeks old, along with other cheeses that have been aged for up to one year. This cheese is available all over France; however, the assortment of aged cheeses will be more limited the further you are from Rocamadour.
  
Rocamadour on French menus:

Confit de Canard, Pommes Forestières et son Rocamadour (20 mn) Recooked duck served with woodsman potatoes and Rocamadour cheese. (20 minutes wait).  Pommes Forestières, woodsman’s potatoes, are made with cubes or slices of potatoes fried with a little goose fat, mushrooms, garlic, and parsley. (Confit has many meanings in French cuisine and duck confit is one of the tastiest).

Rocamadour Chaud sur Blinis et Lit de Jeunes Pousses – Warm Rocamadour on blinis on a bed of young salad leaves and or vegetable shoots..  (Blinis are small pancakes of Russian origin traditionally made with buckwheat flour, but now often made with regular wheat flour).

Salade Rocamadour. Mesclun, Tomates, Rocamadour Tiède, Poitrine de Porc , Miel, Pommes de Terre, Noix. – A mixed green salad, made with tomatoes, warm Rocamadour, braised pork belly with honey, potatoes, and walnuts. This menu listing is for a Salade Rocamadour which has no agreed composition; another chef’s version may be completely different.

Tartines de Rocamadour, Lardons, Noix sur Lit de Salade Verte – Open sandwiches with Rocamadour cheese, fried bacon pieces, and walnuts on a bed of green salad leaves.

Souris d'Agneau Fondante, Ecrasé de Pomme de Terre au Rocamadour Lamb shank cooked until it is falling off the bone served with mashed potatoes made with Rocamadour cheese.
    
Rocamadour cheeses maturing.
        
While Rocamadour AOP is mainly produced in the department of Lot in Occitanie.  For historical reasons individual farms in the new super-region of Occitanie departments of Tarn and Aveyron as well as in the departments of Lot et Garonne, Corrèze, and the Dordogne in the newly expanded super region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine also make Rocamadour cheese. Take a map of the Route de Rocamadour, the Rocamadour road, from the Tourist Information office and spend an enjoyable day touring, and tasting Rocamadour and other local cheeses. Restaurants are carefully spread out along the route along with many farms offering other cheeses and wines.
   
The Route de Rocamadour.
    
Rocamadour was a medieval city though, in today’s terms, it is a village. Today, Rocamadour has some seven hundred permanent inhabitants.  French Medieval cities rarely had more than 3,000 citizens, with most under 1,000, Paris excluded. Since the 10th century, or possibly earlier, Rocamadour has been a place of pilgrimage for those who come to pray to Notre Dame de Rocamadour.

The Medieval City of Rocamadour.
Photograph courtesy of dynamosquito.
www.flickr.com/photos/dynamosquito/4643726309/

The Rocamadour Fete de Fromage
 
Rocamadour, of course, has a cheese festival, their Fête des Fromages; it is held on Whit Sunday, that’s 48 days after Easter, and it celebrates French farm-made cheeses from the South of France and not just their own along with wines from the area. A farmers’ market is held at the same time  Following its position as a place of pilgrimage, the fete begins with a mass and blessing of the local sheep and goats.
 
See the French language website of the Rocamadour Fete de Fromage. The site is easily understood with Google and Microsoft translate apps.

                   
The exact date of their Fete changes every year in coordination with Easter. Easter falls between the 22nd of March and the 25th April so you will need to check the dates on the web, or with the English language website of the Rocamadour Tourist Information Office. (Many French festivals have dates linked to Christian Holy days. Today all these festivals are secularized but their dates have not changed). 

For the English language website of the Tourist Information Office of Rocamadour click or copy paste the link below:


Rocamadour is an excellent place for those with gastronomic interests at any time of the year. The area is part of the ancient province of Quercy, and that means, you may enjoy, apart from many other kinds of cheese, excellent Quercy lamb, duck, melons and much more. Also, try the AOC Coteaux du Quercy wines along with the enjoyable and very inexpensive local Vin des Côtes du Lot IGP wines; these include whites, roses, and reds. Then just 62 km (39 miles) away is the town of Cahors with its excellent, and famous, red Cahors AOP wine.
    
The Statue of the Black Virgin.
                                 
Whatever time of the year you visit Rocamadour there will be pilgrims from all over France and beyond.   Our Lady of Rocamadour, the Vierge Noire, the black virgin, has become even more popular for pilgrims since the reputed burial site of St Amadour was discovered in Rocamadour.  When visiting Rocamadour today's visitors, and pilgrims will be pleased to know that one of the old traditions has changed. You are no longer required to walk up the 216 steps to the shrine of the black virgin on your knees!  Today you can now walk up and down and no one will say a thing. Maybe next year there will be a cable car?
  
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2012, 2016, 2019


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Dining in Nice on 'La Côte d'Azur'. The Cuisine of Nice, Cuisine Niçoise.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
 
www.flickr.com/photos/diekatrin/4520629896/ 

Nice and the Comté de Nice, the area around the city, was part of Italy until 1860, and quite a bit of Italian influence remains. To that add Nice's unique mixture of cultures, languages, and cuisines; that include traditional Provençal specialties and, Nice's own Niçoise Cuisine, its Cuisine Nissarde and language.  N.B. Even if your French is excellent, you will not understand the locals' private conversations as they will often be speaking Nice’s Provençal dialect called Nissarde or Nicoise Provencal.

You will find excellent restaurants in Nice serving the very best of French cuisine, but if you want to taste the traditional cuisine of Nice, look for restaurants serving Cuisine Nissarde.
               
The restaurants that show this "Cuisine Nissarde" symbol offer at least three authentic Niçoise/Nissarde dishes. 
  
Nissarde specialties:
         
Ravioli à la Niçoise – Raviolis stuffed with chopped meat from a daube de bœuf. A daube is traditional Provencal beef stew prepared with red wine.  The daube stuffing in the ravioli will, in season, include Swiss chard. The sauce for this ravioli dish was traditionally the gravy from the daube, but, today, some changes may be offered, and they will be available with grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese.
                                  
Spaghettis à la Niçoise  -  Spaghetti in the manner of Nice. This spaghetti dish has a sauce made with tomatoes, Nice’s AOC black olives, sweet red peppers, anchoviesgarlic, herbs, and, of course, flavored just before serving with Nice's own AOC olive oil the Huile d'Olive de Nice AOC.
  
Spaghettis à la Niçoise
Filet de Dorade à la Niçoise  -  A filet of gilthead sea bream baked, in the oven with tomatoes, the Niçoise AOC olive, green peppers, and onions.
  
Salade Niçoise -  When in Nice you are never allowed to forget that this is the home of Salade Niçoise, probably France’s most famous salad. With few exceptions, most chefs from Nice agree that the recipe will include canned tuna or anchovies, but not both.  To the tuna or anchovies will be added tomatoes, the black Niçoise AOC olives, fava beans, cooked baby artichokes, sweet peppers, herbs, especially basil, and a vinaigrette dressing with the oil from Nice’s own AOC /AOP olive oil the, Huile d'Olive de Nice and red wine vinegar.
       
Ratatouille – The classic recipe is eggplants, (aubergines in the UK), zucchinis, (courgettes in the UK), onions, tomatoes, sweet peppers, garlic, herbs, and olive oil.  To those ingredients, chefs may add, mushrooms, lardons which are fried or lardons, smoked bacon bits, and occasionally eggs.  Some of the vegetables will vary with the seasons, and quite a number of chefs present their Ratatouille with Gruyère cheese browned on top or grated and placed on the side for the diner to add to his or her taste.
    
Ratatouille, the ingredients.
Photograph courtesy of Tom Dixon.
www.flickr.com/photos/twd3lr/7841981338/
                    
Pissaladiere Nicoise - Caramelized onions, olives, garlic, and anchovies served on a bread dough. The Pissaladiere is now often served as an entrée (the French first course)  in restaurants while traditionally it was a street food.
  
Pissaladiere Nicoise
   
Socca or Socca Niçoise -  A hot and crispy chickpea pancake made with farine de pois chiche, chickpea flour. It is the quintessential street food of Nice, baked over hot coals on steel platters and best eaten when still hot.     In Nice socca pancakes are more than a local recipe, they are a tradition, and socca pancakes began as a street-side specialty; they are intended to be eaten as they come out of the oven. Niçoise traditionalists accompany their early morning socca, that many locals still buy on the way to work, with a small glass of wine. The Nice socca pancakes are made with chick-pea flour, water, olive oil and salt along with every socca cook’s secret herbs.

   
Socca
    
Farcis Nicoise -  Stuffed vegetables in the manner or Nice. Tomatoes, eggplant,(UK aubergine)  and zucchini, (UK courgette), onions,  and, in season, the fleur de courgette, the zucchini flower which is a staple of Cuisine Nissarde.   The vegetables are stuffed with ground meat, ham, mushrooms, bread crumbs, and flavored with and herbs. They are baked and may be served hot or cold.
   
Panisses or Panisses Frit  –  Originally a Nice fast food that would be bought hot and eaten on the go. Now panisses have gone mainstream and will be on restaurant menus.  Panisses are made with farine de pois chiche, chickpea flour, in a variety of shapes and deep fried. They were traditionally served on their own with salt, but now today an optional addition of grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese may be added.  In a restaurant, a Panisse may be used as a garnish or served with a salad.
   
Pan Bagnat - A Nicoise sandwich made from a split round roll soaked in olive oil, and filled with sweet peppers, black Nice olives,  onions, anchovies, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, and flavored with garlic and basil.  (Pan bagnat is Italian in origin).
   
Pan Bagnat
Photograph courtesy of Gunnar Grimnes
www.flickr.com/photos/gromgull/3544039328/
  
There are many excellent restaurants along the Nice promenade and many more inside the town.  If you have the time and a car, then there are many more restaurants in the hills behind the town; however, from experience, to avoid shocks, always check the prices in Nice restaurants before sitting down. With so many good restaurants and the Mediterranean Sea to entice you it is not surprising that, after Paris, Nice is the second most visited city, by tourists, in France.
  
Nice and the 'La Côte d'Azur'.

Nice, more than any other city or town along the Mediterranean made the South of France famous. It was here that the French Poet Stephen Liégeard (1830  - 1925) gave the whole Mediterranean coast the name to his book 'La Côte d'Azur' in 1887. In the 1860's the first English tourists arrived, and they fell in love with Nice's cuisine and weather and, unknowingly, founded the local tourism industry.  
     
Part of the Promenade des Anglais.
Photograph courtesy of Richard Whitaker
www.flickr.com/photos/richardwhitaker/18794583782/
    
The English tourists would walk up and down the seafront, and that parade where they could see and be seen that street would become the Promenade des Anglais, the English Promenade. Then from three words, 'La Côte d'Azur,' the whole of the Mediterranean coast got a considerable boost. From that magical name, "the blue coast," the poet Stephen Liégeard created a whole new industry that welcomed the millions of tourists who came to see. Stephen Liégeard got a street or rather an avenue, in Nice, named after him for that.
   
A view of the Beach from the Promenade des Anglais.
Photograph courtesy of Dhinal Chheda
www.flickr.com/photos/dhinalchheda/4748603689/
      
The Carnaval de Nice
                 
The Carnaval de Nice made its first public show in 1876 and has grown in extravagance ever since.  The celebrations are repeated nearly every day over a two-week period, mostly in February; the central attraction of the Carnaval de Nice, is the Bataille de Fleurs, the battle of the flowers. You may reserve a seat to watch by ordering online. 
  
The English language website of the Carnaval de Nice is:


There is much to keep you occupied outside of the restaurants and beaches along with celebrations on all French National Holidays. Nice has many museums, and below I have noted just two, there are many more. However, this post is part of Behind the French Menu and with too much time spent in museums, the food will get cold.
  
For more information look at the Nice Tourist Information Office English language website:

   
Inside the Matisse Museum.
www.flickr.com/photos/moonlightbulb/8260305598/  
   
 
Inside the Musée Marc Chagall
www.flickr.com/photos/historicalcouple/23612710998/
      
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2013, 2016. 2019.


Behind the French Menu’s links include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 400 articles that include over 3,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations. Add the word, words or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" and search with Google or Bing.
       
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