Huitres. Oysters. Huitres II: How Fresh Oysters in France are Sold by Weight

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

   
An oyster celebration with white wine

This post includes France's three separate oyster weight tables. The first is for the smooth shelled huître plates, also called the huître vert, the European oyster.  The second is for the crinkly shelled oval Huîtres Creuses or Huîtres Japonais, the Pacific or Japanese Oyster, the third includes some rarely seen very large oysters. This post together with Huitres. Oysters in France 1. Ordering, Eating and Enjoying Oysters. Huitres on French Menus will make your choices clear.

Oysters by weight

When walking into a seafood restaurant with oysters in mind, a French diner's foremost concern is certainly not the number of individual oysters.  For oyster lovers, the type of oyster, its edible weight along with its origins and the way it was fattened are much more important than quantity. of shells. For taste an oyster is very much what it eats and the larger it is tells the diner that it has eaten very well.

Fortunately, French law and practice require fresh oysters to be offered by their average net weight without the shell, a method, which is rarely, if ever, is seen outside of France.  Frenchmen and women consume more oysters per capita than any other country, and so they know that the weight will affect their wallets and their flavor buds. Oysters are not reserved for the wealthy; there are options that make them part of life for everyone. The two lists below indicate the size codes and the average net weight of each oyster offered in the supermarket or on the menu.  These, together with the oyster's origin and fattening time and place will seriously affect how much you pay,
    
European flat oysters.
Huître Plate, Huître Vert
The weight table for the smooth shelled European Oyster.

The menu will indicate (by law) the average weight of the oysters served.

The European oyster in the languages of France’s neighbors:

(Catalan - ostra comuna ), (Dutch - platte oester), (German – Europäische auster), (Italian - ostrica comune,), (Spanish – ostra europea), (Latin - ostrea edulis). 

  
European oysters
    
The second table is for the crinkly shelled Japanese oyster,

The Pacific Oyster, Japanese Oyster, or Miyagi oyster
Huîtres Creuses, Huître Creuse du Pacifique, Huître Creuse Japonaise
Latin - magallana gigas or crassostrea gigas,
   

The Japanese oyster in the languages of France’s neighbors:
 
(Catalan -  ostra japonesa), (Dutch - Japanse oester ), (German – Pazifische  auster), (Italian - ostrica concava del Pacifico, ostrica giapponese), (Spanish – ostión or ostra japonesa ), (Latin - crassostrea gigas or magallana gigas).     

Crinkly Pacific or Japanese or oysters
Photograph courtesy of Charlotta Wasteson
www.flickr.com/photos/wastes/5505112189/

For many of the famous oyster names along with the grades that reflect the method and time given to them see my post: Ordering, Eating, and Enjoying Oysters in France I.
  
Oysters in the market.
Photograph courtesy of Laurent
www.flickr.com/photos/loloieg/223576897/
                  
More about the European oyster, the Huître plat, or vert.

Number 5 - These are the smallest oysters sold, however, when they come from a famous growing area they will be called papillons, butterflies, and then they will be on seafood restaurant menus. Oysters sold as papillons lay claim to intense tastes while oysters of a similar size but with less unique histories are only sold for home consumption.
    
Number 4 - On the menu in small restaurants or in the supermarket.
    
Number 3 - The smallest size offered in most seafood restaurants.
   
Number 2 - This size along with size 3 will be in offered in most seafood restaurants.
   
Number 1 - The largest size offered in most seafood restaurants, and they will not be inexpensive.
  
An oyster farm in Cap Ferret 10 km from Nice and Monaco.
    
A menu listings  with 6 European oysters maybe like this one:
     
6 Plates de Belon N°2 Cadoret –  6 Plates, European oysters, from Belon in Brittany size N 2, from the farm Cadoret.  That’s about 360 grams (13 oz) of oysters and a good portion for one.  Cadoret is the name of the farm.  The cognoscenti will know and take the name of the farm and size into consideration when ordering and considering the price. Cadoret being one of the most highly rated oyster farms among the many in the area.  Only occasionally with an oyster farm be mentioned by name.

N.B. Oysters are one of the most easily digested foods and this will be a portion of 320 to 400 grams and considered an entrée, an appetizer.

More about the crinkly shelled Pacific or Japanese oyster,
The Huître Creuse Japonais
     
A plate of Japanese oysters

Number 5 - 30 - 45 grams; available at the fish monger's for home consumption.
      
Number  4 - 46 - 65 grams; this is the smallest size seen on most seafood restaurant menus.
     
Number 3  - 66 -85; the most popular size seen on most seafood restaurant menus.
      
Number 2 - 86 - 110 grams.
       
Number 1 -111 - 149 grams.
   
Number: 0 - Over 150 grams. These oyster giants may well exist, though I have yet to see a restaurant where they were on the menu.
    
 A menu offering the crinkly shelled Japanese oysters may read:
    
6 Huîtres Creuses Fine Claire No 2 Marennes-Oléron -  The crinkly shelled Japanese oysters. The words fine claire indicates that the oysters were fattened for at least one month and the size 2 Japanese oysters have a net weight of 86 – 110 grams each; the serving offered here is about 600 grams, 1.2lbs. The oysters noted above come from the highly-rated Marennes-Oléron fattening grounds in the region of Poitou-Charente.
   
6 Huîtres Creuses N°3 – 6  Japanese oysters weighing 66 -85 grams each; this serving will be about 450 grams, 16 ounces. The oysters noted here are sold without their origin being noted on the menu; to me, that indicates they are quite possibility Bouzigue oysters from the Mediterranean.  The Bouzigues are much appreciated in the South of France, but traditional North-South French rivalries often keep their origin off the menus when they are served in the North of France.
    
A Christmas celebration in Brittany.
Oysters and crabs fill the table.

If you were ordering these oysters in Brittany there is no need order Champagne or a Chablis or Muscadet white wine, though if ordered any of those wines will do their part extremely well. Consider trying Brittany’s oysters with one of the finest ciders in France a sparkling, brut, dry, cider.  A Bretagne Bouche AOC cider which will come in a Champagne-style bottle.

Tasting platters

For the enjoyment of their customers, many seafood restaurants offer a tasting platter that include both types of French oysters with different sizes, growing areas and fattening times:
     
Le Plateau des Abers: 3 Creuses Fines n°3, 3 Creuses Spéciales n°2, 3 Plates n°4, 3 plates n°2.
A platter of oysters from the area of Aber in Brittany. 
3 Japanese oysters, Fines size 3, each weighing 66-85 grams, the qualification fine is the lowest fattening grade;
3 Japanese oysters, Spéciales size 2, each weighing 86 - 110 grams, The qualification spéciale indicates the second fattening grade;
3 European Oysters size 4, each weighing 46-55 grams, these are the smallest size European oysters seen in a restaurant;
3 European oysters, size 2, each weighing 66 -75 grams.
This is an entrée, the French first course for two approximately 890 grams (32 ounces, 2lbs.)
      
Some menus offer seafood platters that include a variety of oysters and seafood.
   
2 Spéciales “ Tarbouriech ” n°2,
2 Spéciales “ Gillardeau ” n°3, 
2 Huîtres Fines “ P.M Barrau ” n°2,
 2 Tarbouriech Japonaise oysters from the unique oyster farm owned by Florent Tarbouriech and located in the Etang de Thau lagoon on the Mediterranean coast near the fishing port of Sète.  These oysters are raised above the water almost daily thereby mimicking the tides which are considered a decisive factor in the taste of Atlantic oysters. In the Mediterranean tides are practically illusory. Florent Tarbouriech patented his system using solar panels to power the motors that raise the oysters. The classification spéciales indicates oysters of the second fattening rating;
2  Spéciale Gillardeau oysters, the Gillardeau  oysters come from the family owned Gillardeau oyster farm that has been farming oysters in the famous fattening grounds of Marennes-Oléron for over 100 years;  
2  Fine P.M. Barrau oysters come from the family farm of Barrau and like the Gillardeau oyster farm is based in the Marennes-Oléron  fattening grounds.
This platter also comes with 1 Dublin Bay Prawn, the crustacean that is the real scampi; 2 large pink shrimps; French clams; sea almonds; sand shrimps and whelks. Really a large entrée, the starter for 1.

    
The third (and heavyweight class) classification table
This is for the largest, and rarely seen, and most expensive Huîtres Plate, the European Oysters.


    
Number 0 - A platter of 6 of these are over 500 grams 1.1lbs.
        
Number 00 - This size is used to impress, for example, at an official banquet for visiting Presidents.
      
Number 000 - These oysters make it to only a few menus, and when they do they are usually sold by the piece.
         
Number 0000 - This is the last number on this list; however, I think that is all there is to it. I have never seen these heavyweights on any menu.
         
Huître Plate  N° 000 de la Baie de Cancale La pièce.  These large European oysters come from the Bay of Canacle, a bay that is itself within the Bay of Mont Saint Michel is set across the border of Normandy and Brittany. The many large size oysters grown in the farms of the Bay of Canacle are put down to its unusually high tides.  These tides bring in large amounts of plankton upon which the oysters feed, and also expose the growing oysters to the sun every day.  These oysters will have been raised for 3 to 4 years and have a net weight of approximately 110 grams, 4 ounces, each;  so it is not surprising that they are sold by the piece.

Mont Saint Michel is also known for its special small mussels, the Mont St Michel Moule de Bouchot AOP. These mussels are the only French farmed seafood of any kind to be awarded an AOC/AOP. Mont Saint Michel is also famed for their Agneau de Pré- Salé AOP -The uniquely tasty lamb from the salt meadows along France's Atlantic coast.
   
When the party is over.


--------------------------------
 

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2011, 2013, 2015, 2019.
 
---------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?

Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google or Bing,  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.

-----------------------

Connected Posts:


 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

  



Chablis; One of France's Finest White Wines and Chablis the Town.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


Chablis Grand Cru.
Photograph courtesy of Dale Cruse.
www.flickr.com/photos/dalecruse/8706768713/

Chablis AOP is a dry, crisp, white wine produced from Chardonnay grapes around the town of Chablis in the department of Yonne, Burgundy that since 1-1-2016 is part of the super region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté.

The town of Chablis, despite its famous name and history, is still a small French town; albeit an exceptionally pretty one.  If you are driving to Chablis, remember it is a small town. You may quickly drive through the town and be back out among the grapevines before you realize you have exited the town. We did that!  We, of course, did turn around and drive back. In the town center, we found an inviting looking restaurant to sample the local cuisine, and, again, of course, to order a bottle of Chablis.

The entrance to Chablis
www.flickr.com/photos/jamesonfink/13187892615/
                                
Despite its size, Chablis and its immediate area have quite a number of hotels, B & Bs, restaurants, and, of course, wine shops. You may also choose to stay in the towns of Avallone or Auxerre; both are about 20 km (12 miles) from Chablis.  We stayed in an excellent hotel in Avallone. The hotel is built on the sight of a post house where Napoleon I had once watered his horse!  Auxerre has many more hotels, but none whose claim to fame competes with Napoleon and his horse.
   
Vineyards in Chablis

 
In books on pairing wines, Chablis has always been one of the wines recommended to accompany oysters.  (The other favored choices are Muscadet, which comes from the area close to the city of Nantes in the Pay du Loire, and, of course,  Champagne).  Chablis and oysters are an interesting coincidence. The vineyards around Chablis are all set above an ancient limestone landmass with many fossilized oysters. Those old oysters must have spread the word, and so the wheel of life goes on.

Choosing a Chablis

French Chablis is very different from most of the New World versions I have tried. However, I am not an educated wine maven, and with hundreds of producers and four appellations when we arrived in Chablis, I needed help.  Luckily, in the restaurant we had chosen, there was a friendly and knowledgeable sommelier, and I had an up-to-date book in French wines. We discussed our interest in Chablis along with our budget. The sommelier suggested a reasonably priced wine that turned out to be fabulous. This was a Chablis from one of the lower Chablis appellations, but good sommeliers know a great deal more than just the names, the price, and appellations.  More about Chablis appellations and the information they contribute later. While we were enjoying our lunch and our wine we overheard the couple on the table next to us discussing their dissatisfaction with a much more expensive Chablis.  They had chosen a top of the line Chablis from the wine-list, it had been their own choice.  As with other wines, so with Chablis, the price does not guarantee any more than how much you will pay. More about the different Chablis Crus and grades toward the end of this post.
     
Chablis on French menus:
  
Cassolette d'Escargots au Chablis – A dish of snails served with a Chablis based sauce.
   
Bottle and glass of Chablis
www.flickr.com/photos/x1brett/46088122924/

Filet de Raie au ChablisSkate, the fish, sautéed with Chablis. In the UK, skate is mostly seen when deep-fried in batter and sold in fish and chip shops. However, in France, skate will be served in the finest restaurants. In French kitchens skate be may be baked, poached or sautéed, but never deep-fried. Dishes with skate will be served hot with a butter or wine sauce, as skate tends to jell when cold.

Paupiettes au Saumon Sauce Chablis – Rolled filets of salmon cooked in a Chablis based sauce.
 
Poire au Vin de Chablis - Pears cooked in Chablis. 
   
Chablis vineyards
www.flickr.com/photos/lreivilo/2741453629/
  
Sauté de Queues d'Écrevisses, Brunoise de Petits Légumes au Chablis  - Crayfish tails sautéed with Chablis and served with finely cut young vegetables.  Brunoise is one of the important sizes in the French world of chopped fruits and vegetables, it denotes a cut about 2 mm (0.08”) thick.

Chablis has a number of unique local dishes that may also be on your menu. They include Jambon Chablis, ham cooked in Chablis, and a locally made Andouillette AAAAA sausage.
    
N.B.: When a sommelier or a wine-list only offer wines that are above your budget, then that is the time to choose a house wine. Most French restaurants, outside of some of the more exclusive,  have house wines that have been chosen with their regular diners in mind.  House wines will be approved by the sommelier and in smaller restaurants by the owner and the chef; the wine will be priced to keep the regulars returning.

French Chablis is made from very close to 100% French Chardonnay grape with a taste that is quite different from most New World Chardonnays that I have tried. Maybe it is the barrels, maybe its science, maybe it is the terroir. (Worry not, I will not get into terroir here).  Whatever the reason, French Chablis is different from other French wines made with Chardonnay grapes.
 
The town of Chablis and some twelve villages linked to her have festivals and fetes almost every month of the year. These celebrations are not only about the Chablis wines, though a sizeable number are.  The festivities include concerts, artist’s festivals and more.
   
The Sereign River flows through  Chablis
   
Finding the dates of Chablis linked festivals and fetes.
      
You may check the dates and places of wine and food celebrations throughout France when still in your home country through the local French Government Tourist Office. For Chablis tourism the town’s visitor information website is www.chablis.net.  If you are already in Chablis, the tourism information office is on the town’s main street:  1 Rue du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny.
      
Ask the Chablis tourist information office for a map of the town and a map of their Chablis  Route des Vins, their Chablis wine road.  Then request information on the town’s and surrounding communities’ celebrations and farmers’ markets.  With all that information, you have the perfect way to explore the area, including stopping off for wine tastings and joining in the celebrations that coincide with your visit.  The Chablis Route des Vins also passes quite a number of restaurants; choose one to enjoy lunch or dinner.
     
The most important wine fete in Chablis itself is the Fête des Vins de Chablis, the fete of Chablis wines. This fete it is held on the fourth Saturday and Sunday in October.  Additionally, the entire department of Yonne, which includes Chablis, celebrates its many different wines on the first Saturday in May. The town of Chablis, of course, will be doing its part.
            
Seeing the town of Chablis

Inside Chablis, you do not need a car. Just park and walk around the town.  Walk along streets that were laid down in the late middle ages with some of the original houses remaining.  Visit its two churches, one of which dates back to the twelfth century the other to the 18th. Both churches were rebuilt in the 19th century. There is also a 12th-century synagogue that was rebuilt some ten years ago.
      
There is a farmers’ market in Chablis every Sunday morning.  Given a bright summer’s day, you may want to pass on a traditional restaurant lunch and buy a chilled bottle of Chablis, a baguette and some of Burgundy’s magnificent cheeses. Find a road that takes you to the banks of the River Sereign that runs through the town and find a place for a picnic; enjoy.

Hiking in Chablis,
   
If you enjoy hiking, then consider joining one of the hikes that are organized by the Chablis hikers association, the Association des Sentiers Chablisiens  The association organizes  hikes  in the country around Chablis  twice a week for one and a half to two hours. Their French language website is:

Google and Bing translate translate the French very clearly.

Chablis appellations.

Four Chablis appellations set the boundaries of the different Chablis wines. The Chablis Appellations were created to differentiate the quality of the Chablis wines produced in each area.  Like the rest of France’s appellations and crus, they were set in 1935. They have been part of French law in 1946. However, since 1946, not one single Chablis wine, produced by any Chablis vintner, has had its quality grading changed! None are officially better or worse?
 
There are four Chablis appellations:
  
Appellation Chablis Grand Cru Contrôlée -   Considered the very, very best of all the Chablis wines.
    
Appellation Chablis Premier Cru Contrôlée - Nearly the very best.
   
Aging bottles of Chablis
     
Appellation Chablis Contrôlée -  A snippet below the nearly the very best.
  
Appellation Petit Chablis Contrôlée Chablis -  A little below the one below the nearly the very best.
        
Petit Chablis
www.flickr.com/photos/dalecruse/9201791579/
    
I have listed these appellations, tongue in cheek, as I certainly do not know why a single producer's wine has not been recognized for having improved or worsened in over 70 years!  However, the wine mavens know and the caves, the wine stores know, and their prices reflect the value. I also know that if you see a Chablis Grand Cru at a low price, leave it!  There is no good top of the line Chablis wines at a discount price.
    
Other great white wines from Burgundy are also made with 100% Chardonnay grapes. These other wines have their own names and appellations. Despite having the same grape in the bottle, these other wines also have, by the different soils, local micro-climates, magic, science or terroir have different tastes.  These additional 100% Chardonnay wines include famous names like Pouilly-Fuissé AOP, Chassagne-Montrachet, AOP, Corton-Charlemagne AOP, Meursault AOP, Montrachet AOP, and many others.

For more on all the wines from Burgundy see the website:


-----------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010,  2011, 2012, 2015, 2019.

---------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?

Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google or Bing,  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.

------------------------

 
 
 
  
  
 



  
 








Responsive ad