from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Dover Sole
Dover Sole, the fish.
Dover Sole in France may well be on your menu
as Sole Française.
The fish are the same, they just have different
passports!
This
member of the sole family of fishes is just called Sole or Dover Sole on U.K.
menus and Sole, Sole Français, a Sole de Douvres, or Sole Bretonne on French
menus. Dover sole has a firm, tight white flesh with a mild, clear taste. This
sole is the fish to which all other soles and flounders are compared for flavor
and texture.
The
recipes created for Dover Sole are used for nearly all other soles and
flounders and many other fish. (Flounders encompass several flatfish and other
members of the sole family. Also, there is another fish called Dover Sole in
North America, but this is a flatfish caught in the Pacific Ocean, called 'West
Coast' or Pacific Dover sole, and its taste and texture cannot be compared to
the European Dover sole. (On a restaurant menu when you see filets of Dover
Sole you know immediately it’s not the real thing; European Dover sole may be
filleted after it had been served but is never cooked as a filet).
Dover
Sole on French menus:
Filets de Sole Marguery -
Filets of sole cooked and served in a sauce made with white wine, butter, crème fraiche, shallots, and served decorated with shrimps and mussels. Marguery, among restaurateurs, is thought of as more
than just a great chef. Marguery was the first to organize, as an industry, the
Parisian restaurants and restaurateurs. The organization he created in the late
1800s still exists.
The
fish market in Capbreton,
in
the department of Landes in Nouvelle Aquitaine.
Sole à la Dieppoise –
Sole prepared in the manner of the port of Dieppe in Haut Normandie on France's
North Atlantic coast. Here the sole will be poached in white wine with mussels and shrimps. Dieppe has always been famous as a fishing port and was
always one of Paris's principal sources of fish from the Atlantic. The name
Dieppe will be found in recipes for sea fish and seafood from soups to entrees,
the American starter, and the main course.
Pan-fried
Dover Sole
Dieppe remains an active fishing port, though it is also is a
major entry and exit point for ferries to and from the U.K. and elsewhere. Many
who bring their cars to France by ferry begin their French vacation in Dieppe.
Paris is just a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Paris. If you are considering
driving from Dieppe to Paris, take a break at Giverny. In Giverny are the home
and garden of the artist Claud Monet, and his gardens should not be missed. The
English language website with the visiting hours for the gardens and the optional
costs for those very important "skip-the-line" tickets is:
The English language tourist information website for Dieppe and
the area around Dieppe is:
Sole à la Nantua –
Sole Prepared in the manner of the town of Nantua. Sole lightly fried and
served with a covering of Sauce Nantua. Traditionally Sauce Nantua's main
ingredient was the tails from the abundant local crayfish. The crayfish tails were mixed with a Béchamel Sauce made with added butter. The color and flavor of the sauce came from the crayfish's
shells. Today the recipe has changed, and the crayfish, unfortunately, will not
be local.
The town of Nantua is in the department of Ain in the Rhône-Alpes,
bordering Switzerland. Lake Nantua, which borders the town, is a center for
water sports and just over one hour away from some of France's most popular ski
resorts. If you are looking for more places with great restaurants, then make a
note that Lyon is just one hour away to the South and Geneva, Switzerland, one
hour away to the East., Lake Annecy, another famous French lake is one and a
half hours away to the East.
The English language website for Nantua may be found at:
Lake
Nantua and the town.
www.flickr.com/photos/o_0/47878207201/
Sole à la Normande –
Sole in the Norman manner. The sauce will include cream or crème fraîche with the fish decorated
with mussels or small shellfish.
The original recipe for Sole à la Normande is credited to a chef
called Langlais, which translates as The Englishman in French; I wonder how he
got by in Paris with a name like that? Langlais was the chef, in the 1830s, at
the then very famous Parisian restaurant Au Rocher de Cancale. His original
Sole à la Normande recipe included oysters and truffles. Usually, oysters and truffles will not be in the dish on your
menu today.
If you are walking around Paris, there is still a
café-restaurant called Au Rocher de Cancale at the same address 78 Rue
Montorgueil, in Paris's second arrondissement. Au Rocher de Cancale today
offers good coffee and croissants in the morning as well as lunch and dinner menus. Today Au
Rocher de Cancale is a neighborhood restaurant without pretensions. The Rue
Montorgueil and the area around is a great place to wander around. The street
is a permanent market street and one of the best places for buying meat and
fish in Paris.
Au Rocher De Cancale, Paris/
Normandy took Langlais's recipe home, but do not be surprised if
menus in Normandy offer Sole à la Normande with changes to the recipe. Normandy
is also home to some of the best cider in France as well as butter, cream, creme fraiche, Even
the mussels served with your sole dish may be the unique small Moules
de Bouchot de la Baie du Mont-Saint-Michel AOP,
Mont-Saint-Michel, Normandy.
www.flickr.com/photos/brathot/43218100575/
When
considering a visit to Normandy look at the English language website of the
Normandy Tourist Board at:
Sole Bonne Femme –
Sole cooked and served in a sauce made with white wine, fresh mushrooms, and crème fraîche. The name translates as sole as
made by a good housewife. Today, the name may not be politically correct; however,
a well-made Sole Bonne Femme is still an outstanding recipe for Dover Sole and
one of the most famous sole recipes. While the creator of Sole Bonne Femme is
unknown, many chefs have used the recipe as a base upon which they have built
their own creations.
Sole Duglére
- A sole recipe named after its creator, one of France's
most famous chefs, Adolphe Duglére (1805-1884). The sole is cooked using a
recipe Duglére originally created for the fish brill and that is equally as memorable. The Dover Sole is
poached in the oven with white wine, tomatoes, and crème fraîche.
Dugléré began his career as a pupil of the most famous chef of
the 19th century Antonin Carême. Later Dugléré's would
become the Chef de Cuisine at the legendary Café Anglais in Paris, and his own
place in culinary history became assured. Quite a number of Dugléré's recipes
are still famous today including:
Pommes de Terre Anna -
Anna potatoes. One of France's most popular potato dishes. Dugléré named the dish after a slightly infamous
lady, Anna Deslions, who frequented the exclusive private dining rooms on the
upper floor of the Café Anglais.
Pomme de Terre Anna.
www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/4010845467/
Sole Meunière or Sole à la Meunière – Sole with a tasty but straightforward butter sauce made with lemon juice and parsley added to melted
clarified butter. Meunière is often translated in error as a dish prepared in
the manner of a miller's wife. One of my correspondents on French cuisine,
Michel Mass, points out that the miller's wife story is another urban legend
probably explained because such recipes sometimes (though not always) imply
that the fish should be rolled in flour before cooking. However, the word
initially related to various freshwater fish species that, in the past, went by
the collective name of Meunier, most likely the then plentiful Common Bullhead,
Chabot in French, and Chub, Chevaine in French.
Mill ponds were built close to water mills and were a haven for fish and, consequently, anglers. Today, unfortunately, we will rarely see Bullhead or Chubb on the menu, but you can order sole, trout, and almost any other type of fish prepared à la meunière. To my mind, Sole (Dover Sole) à la Meunière is the perfect fish for this sauce, but there are others that I have enjoyed only a little less.
The preparation and serving of Sole Meunière is an art. When the fish is ready, the server, hopefully, a true artist, will remove all the bones, along with and the head and tail using just a fish knife or a spoon and a few swift hand movements. The fileted fish will be reassembled and placed in front of the diner in less than two minutes. Then the diner may enjoy the aroma of the Sauce Meunière and enjoy the taste and texture of the greatest recipe for Dover Sole ever created.
Sole
Meunière.
www.flickr.com/photos/merlejajoonas/8008690464/
Julia
Child and Sole Meunière
For one of her first meals in Paris, Julia Child, who brought
French cuisine to the American table, ate Sole Meuniere, a simple-seeming white
fish cooked in butter and lemon. In her memoir, My Life in France, she called
it "the most exciting meal of my life."
The
fileting of a Sole Meunière.
Sole Véronique - Filet
of Dover sole poached in white wine, covered with a white sauce, usually
a Béchamel Sauce and garnished with white grapes.
Sole Walewska –
The dish named after Marie Walewska; a Polish Countess who became the most
well-known of Napoleon I's mistresses. The original recipe called for truffles with meat from the two-clawed lobster wrapped around by a filet
of Dover Sole. There may be no truffles in today's version; however, Sole
Walewska today should still be Dover sole rolled around meat from the two-clawed
lobster, homard, or at least meat from the rock lobster,langouste,
the owner of the lobster tail. All should be served in a wine and cognac-based sauce.
Dover Sole in the languages of France’s neighbors:
(Catalan - Llenguado, (German -
zunge or Seezunge), (Italian- sogliola, sogliola volgar, soglia vera, sogliola
comune), (Spanish – lenguado, lenguado común), (Latin -
solea solea).
Dover Sole in other languages:
(Chinese (Mandarin) -欧洲鳎), (Croation – list), (Danish - almindelig tunge), (Dutch
– tong), (Egyptian Arabic - soul shaea), (Greek - Γλώσσα , glosa), (Hebrew – sole, moshe
rabenu -סולית מצויה), (Icelandic
- sölflúra), (Norweguan – tunge), (Portuguese - sola zwyczajna),
(Swedish – tunga), (Turkish - dil balığı). Help
with some of the translations come from Froese, R. and D. Pauly. Editors.
2014. FishBase. World Wide Web electronic publication. www.fishbase.org,
version (08/2014).
--------------------------------
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com
Copyright 2010, 2015, 2017, 2020
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