Cassoles, Cassolettes, and Cassoulets. Along with Four of the Most Famous Cassoulets in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
Enjoying a Cassoulet.
www.flickr.com/photos/romytetue/7275202164/
  
Cassoulets


Cassoulets are substantial and filling heavy winter stews; virtually all of them originated in Languedoc's historical province. The historical province of Languedoc is within the boundaries of the new super region of Occitanie, which includes the old regions of Languedoc-Roussillon and Midi-Pyrénées. (Occitanie was created on 1-1-2016 when France reduced the number of mainland regions from 22 to 13).  

  
Cassole

A cassole is the dish in which a cassoulet is made; this cooking utensil gave its name to the dish called cassoulet and u was added. A cassole should not be confused with another cooking utensil that sounds very similar, the cassolette.

Cassolette 
A cassolette is a small cooking bowl, not used for cassoulets,that would be a cassole. Despite its similar sounding and similarly spelled name. (How confusing and  annoying!). But watch out as French menus often include the name of the bowl or pan used in the preparation of a dish.   A cassolette on your menu refers to a dish used for cooking and sometimes serving, but it does not refer to the ingredients which can vary from region to region. 

One Last Time

 A Cassoulet, the subject of this post, is made in a Cassolette. A cassolete (without a u) is a cooking and serving dish that is not used for Cassoullets. Got it? No. Sorry, begin again at the beginning.

Cassolette de Moules – Mussels cooked and served in a cassolette.
 
Cassolette de Champignons au Beurre d’Ail- Mushrooms cooked in garlic butter in a cassolette and served in it. 

                   The Cassoulets in this post:
   
The four "cassoulets" in this post are differentiated by their ingredients; though they all have a common thread in their preparation.  All cassoulets are cooked in an oven very slowly.  When ready cassoulets are at their best when lightly refrigerated for two or three days after cooking to allow all the flavors to come through; then reheated before serving.

There are tens, if not hundreds, of different recipes for cassoulets in the towns and villages of Southern France. The cassoulets in this post come from the towns of Carcassonne and Castelnaudary in the department of Aude in Occitanie, Toulouse in the department of https://behind-the-french-menu.blogspot.com/2016/09/the-names-frances-internal-regions-and.htmlin the Midi-Pyrénées and Périgueux in the department of Dordogne in Nouvelle Aquitaine. The cassoulet of Périgueux is the only famous cassoulet that comes from outside the old province of Languedoc.

The Cassoulet de Carcassonne

The Carcassonne  Cassoulet has the most expensive ingredients of the famous four and includes the perdrix rouge, the red partridge, in its recipe. That makes it a very different cassoulet to the others. This cassoulet would rarely if ever, have been on an average worker or peasant’s table.  Today wild partridges are protected, with a very short hunting season and the partridge in your cassoulet will have been farm-raised. Today, France farm raises many animals that elsewhere are considered wild game; including partridges, quail, pheasants, rabbits, hares, wild boar, deer and more. The Cassoulet de Carcassonne in addition to the red partridge includes pork loin, pork belly, bacon, pork rinds, tomatoes and carrots and, of course, France’s ubiquitous white beans.

Cassoulete de Carcassonne.
  
Carcassonne the town

Carcassonne’s history began with the Visigoths followed by the Romans who were the first to start creating the defenses that today make this town a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Today Carcassonne’s main industry is catering to the 3,000,000 tourists who visit every year and the vast wine-growing region of which it is the center.  When visiting you may also rent a boat, with bedrooms, toilets, showers and a kitchen on the Canal du Midi,, also knows as the Canal du Deux Mers, the canal of the two seas.  The Canal du Midi, which opened in 1681, allowed the whole region to export goods to the North of France via reshipment on large ships from Bordeaux on the Atlantic.  For the north of France, the most important product was wheat, followed by wine, Armagnac, and timber. The canal saved a four-week voyage around Spain which included occasional pirate attacks from North Africa. Today  with trains, planes, and fast roads the canal is only used for pleasure boating.
 
      
If you do hire a boat, instruction included, you may cruise to Bordeaux on the Atlantic or down to the Mediterranean at the beautiful fishing port of Sète. Then, if you wish you may continue on to the town of  Beaucaire  23 km (14 miles) below Avignon.   

By car or train, Carcassonne is just one and a quarter hours, 136 km  (85 miles) to the fishing port of Sete on the Mediterranean coast.  Sete, is famous for its fish and seafood cuisine and definitely worth visiting.
 
Prosper Montagné,  the chef, (1865 –1948), who, as much as Escoffier, brought French cuisine into the 20th century was born in Carcassonne.

For more about visiting Carcassonne see the Carcassone Tourist information English Language website:

  
The Cassoulet de Castelnaudary
  
The legendary Castelnaudary Cassoulet is made with haricots blanc, the white beans, lamb, bacon fat, pork ribs, pork rinds, goose fat. With the most important ingredients being Toulouse sausages, garlic sausages, and duck or goose confit. All of that comes along with any vegetables that the chef chooses.
    
Cassoulet de Castelnaudary.
   
 The proportions of each of the ingredients noted above are the key to the best Cassoulet de Castelnaudary, and each chef will keep his or her version a secret. For the traditional recipe see the web site of the Confrerie of the Cassoulet de Castelnaudary.  Confreries are brother and sisterhoods who organize to promote and defend their chosen fruit, recipe, wine or other edible products.If you really love this cassoulet you may join and wear the robes of a member of the Grande Confrerie. 
  
Grande Confrerie du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary
Photograph courtesy of the Grand Confrerie of the Cassoulet of Castelnaudary.
  
The town of Castelnaudary

Lovers of good food do not visit Castelnaudary for their cassoulet alone. Castelnaudary is the center of a large farming community and home to many good restaurants in and around the town. Of course, apart from the wide range of dishes available, there are many distinctive wines.
 
Castelnaudary was also once an important port on the Canal du Midi. Today, as in Carcassonne, you may take an organized boat ride on the canal or rent your own. Castelnaudary is close to many vineyards, some with very distinctive wines rarely seen at home, such as the Malepere AOC/AOP or the Cabardès AOC/AOP.  Castelnaudary is very close to Carcassone, just 20 minutes by train and 30 minutes by car, 42 km (26 miles).

Castelnaudary is a smaller town than Carcassone, but it still keeps the visitors and the locals jumping.  Castelnaudary has many fetes and fairs and of course, they have a Fête du Cassoulet. The celebration of their cassoulet is held over the last weekend in August.  If you are not in the area in August you may choose their Foire aux Fleurs, their flower fair in May. Also consider their Foire Gourmande, a gourmand’s fair in July.

The Castelnaudary and area French language website is:


You may use Google and Bing Translate on the site above. However,  English speakers will find much of the same information on the English language website of France- Voyage.com:


The Cassoulet Toulousain

The Cassoulet Toulousain includes the Haricot Tarbais, the Label Rouge, red label, Tarbais dried white beans. The beans come along with pork loin, pork rind, goose and goose fat, duck confit and most importantly Toulouse sausages. Some of the recipes for this cassoulet include lamb.
   
The City of Toulouse
   
Toulouse’s fame began under the Romans when the city was called Tolosa.  Today Toulouse is the capital of the department of Haute-Garonne.
  
Toulouse is on the River Garonne which is part of the Canal du Midi so you may also rent a self-drive boat.  By car, Toulouse is 45 min and one hour by train, 64  km (45 miles) from Castelnaudary.  
 
The Pont Neuf in Toulouse.
Photograph courtesy of  jacme31.
      
Toulouse was also the site of the last, and unnecessary,  battle of the Napoleonic wars. On 10 April 1814, Marshal Soult and Wellington fought a bloody battle not knowing that Napoleon had already abdicated four days earlier. Despite fighting for Napoleon, Marshal Soult would go on to be a government Minister under the restored monarchy.  Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France with a population of over half a million and home to Europe’s aeronautics industry.


The Toulouse Tourist Information Office English language website is:


The Cassoulet Périgourdine.
   
This is the most famous cassoulet in the department of Dordogne (Perigord) and the most highly rated cassoulet outside the old province of Languedoc. The recipe may vary a little from restaurant to restaurant. However, as much as they vary they will all include stuffed neck of goose or duck, flageolet white beans, duck confit, and garlic sausage and tomatoes.  Some may be made with added beef.  
   

The City of Périgueux:
Périgueux is set on the River Isle, a tributary of the River Dordogne, and it is the capital of the Department of Dordogne in Nouvelle Aquitaine.  The Dordogne was mostly the old province of Perigourd and it is still called that by many of the locals. Périgueux has a walkable city center that has streets left from the middle ages.

Périgueux is especially famous for its Cuisine Périgourdine;  it is one of the most important regional cuisines of France. Cuisine Périgourdine has dishes and products that will be seen on menus all over France: Sauce Périgueux, Salade Perigourdine, Duck confit, Perigord truffles, the Noix du Périgord AOP, the famous Perigord walnuts from the area and, of course,  the Cassoulet  Périgourdine.
  
Close to Perigueux, just 45 min by car,  55 km (34 miles) away is  Périgord Pourpre, Purple Périgord. Périgord Pourpre  is the wine-growing center of Périgord and home to the town of Bergerac  where all the vines for the Monbazillac  wines are grown, just outside the town
  

The city of Périgueux.
Photograph courtesy of Panoramas
www.flickr.com/photos/ranopamas/2757189267/
  
Perigueux Tourist Information Office and other local English language websites:
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Cassoulet d'Escargots or Cassolet d'Escargots

 Snail cassoulet or cassolet
  
This snail dish above confuses many as it may be called a cassoulet or a cassolet.  However, no matter how good this dish good tastes it is not prepared, in any way, like a traditional cassoulet.  The name used depends on the chef and his or her knowledge of local culinary history and traditions. Enjoy this dish without reference to the spelling of the name, it is not a traditional cassoulet. You will find this snail dish on the menu in many parts of France. 

For this dish, the snails either whole or chopped up will be fried in butter and then mixed with a sauce made with white wine.  The flavoring will be garlic, parsley, shallots, and chopped leeks all served with garlic flavored toast.  Practically every region from the north to the south of France will have restaurants that offer their own versions. Whether a restaurant has a cassoulet or cassolet d'Escargots on their menu there, will be no hours of slow cooking here.  This dish will be cooked when ordered and served when ready. 
  
--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2015, 2017, 2019
 
--------------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
 
Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google, Bing, or another browser.  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.




  

 

                                                                                                          
  
 






Coco de Paimpol - France's Famous Bean from Paimpol in Brittany. The Cocos de Paimpol AOP in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

  
The Coco de Paimpol.
www.flickr.com/photos/marckjerland/4044122852/
    
The Haricot de Cocos de Paimpol AOP is the most famous bean in Brittany. The French love beans and this bean is the gourmand’s bean. The Cocos de Paimpol took the slow boat from the New World to the Old World and only began to be recognized for their distinctive taste and texture in the 1930s
  
When did the Coco de Paimpol arrives in Brittany?
  
Within one-hundred and fifty years of Christopher Columbus and the Conquistadors discovering South America in 1492 beans and maize was being grown all over France along with French-produced hybrids. However, no one is entirely sure when the original bean that would become the Cocos de Paimpol arrived in Brittany, but it did not reach via Spain with other beans. Cultivation began in the 1930s, and by the end of the 1940s, the Cocos de Paimpol was famous. 

Saucisses de Toulouse aux Cocos de Paimpol
Toulouse Sausages with Cocos de Paimpol.
   
The bean itself
  
This white bean has an oval shape with a pale yellow pod that has slight violet markings; it is sold as a haricot demi-sec, a semi-dry bean. Semi-dry means the bean will be sold without the pod but not dried like many of France’s traditional beans, which require prolonged soaking to rehydrate them before use. The Haricot de Cocos de Paimpol will be in recipes from soups to salads, accompanying roasts, and many other dishes and, of course, will be in stews and cassoulets.

The Cocos de Paimpol on your menu in France:

Filet de Sole Cuit Meunière, Cocos de Paimpol aux Truffes, Beurre de Persil Plat- A filet of sole prepared with a Sauce Meunièr beans with truffles and flat parsley butter.  Sauce Meunier is a tasty but straightforward butter sauce made with added lemon juice and parsley. Accompanying the sole, the fish, are the Cocos de Paimpol beans flavored with truffles and a parsley butter made with the slightly stronger flavored flat parsley. A wedge of the parsley butter is placed on the fish just as it is served to allow the butter and parsley to flavor the fish as it melts. (For decoration, curly parsley is preferred, but the flat parsley is used when more parsley flavor is required). 

The truffles offered in this dish will not be France's famous Black Perigord truffles or the nearly as famous Burgundy truffles; otherwise, they would have starred on the menu. Nevertheless, France has a number of truffles that do add their own flavor to a dish and are relatively inexpensive. The truffles offered here may be the Truffle d'Été, The Summer truffle; it is a lightly scented truffle or the Truffe d'Hiver or Truffe Brumale, the Winter Truffle. Ask.
       
Dos de Haddock.Cocos de Paimpol.
A thick cut of smoked haddock accompanied by the Cocos de Paimpol.
  
Pavé de Thon Mi-cuit, Compotée de Coco de Paimpol Frais  A thick cut  of very, very, lightly cooked tuna served with a compote made from fresh Coco de Paimpol beans. Fresh beans will only be on menus from the end of June through October.
    
RIs d'Agneau aux Cocos de Paimpol, Jus de Veau Réduit  - Lamb sweetbreads  served with Cocos de Paimpol beans and a reduced sauce made from a veal base.

Soupe aux Haricots Coco de Paimpol - Coco de Paimpol bean soup. A soup made with the Coco de Paimpol will be creamy and velvety.    
  
Crème de Cocos de Paimpol à la Poitrine Fumée
Cream of Coco de Paimpol soup
flavored with smoked streaky bacon; in the USA, smoked slab bacon.
Photograph courtesy of Cuisine Actuelle.
   
Souris d'Agneau Confite et Caramélisée, Haricots Cocos de Paimpol  Souris d’Agneau is the foreshank and knuckle of lamb served as a caramelized confit accompanied by the Coco de Paimpol beans. In this menu listing, the lamb confit has been caramelized, probably with honey and wine vinegar.  To a confit, caramelization adds additional texture and taste.

 A Souris d’Agneau is nearly always prepared as part of a stew or, as here, as a confit. Confits were, and are still, made by slowly cooking the meat on a low heat in its own fat and juices. A slow, low, heat breaks down the muscle and other tissues so that the meat will, practically, melt in your mouth. Historically, duck and pork confits would be preserved under a layer of the same fat in which it was cooked,  allowing the flavors to mingle. Just as a soup or stew tastes better the day after it is cooked, so these confits which were kept for the winter months in airtight containers while their taste improved with time.  Today, a lamb confit will not have been stored under fat, rather very very slowly simmered.  

Translating the Souris on your menu listing.
 
N.B.: When translating menus with a traveler’s English-French dictionary or Google Translate, you will find the word souris in French also means a mouse or a rat. However, worry not; this is a cut of lamb, and no mice or rats are included. In the days when French cuisine was in its infancy, culinary names were either traditional names or allocated with kitchen humor without any need to be politically correct. The uncooked cut was said to resemble a mouse, and despite its unfortunate connotations, the name stuck. 

Choosing your aperitif and digestif in Paimpol.

Choose a glass of ice-cold Chouchen, the alcoholic mead that the Celtic Druids who came from Britain to France brought with them. You may also choose a Kir Royal in the manner of Brittany as your aperitif. That is a Kir made with Brittany’s sparkling cider replacing the original champagne. or Brittany’s Pommeau de Bretagne  AOP. With your meal you might choose Brittany’s Cidre Cornouaille AOP. This is the Bretagne, Brittany’s delicately sparkling semi-dry AOP cider. Its apples come from the area called Cornouaille in the département of Finistère. If you are visiting this area, take their Route du Cidre AOC Cornouaille, their cider road.

Your digestif in Brittany will be their famous Lambig apple brandy, over that, there will be no discussion.
    
A Brittany Lambig Apple Brandy.
Horse d’ Âge – Over six years old.
  
Around Paimpol and within Côtes-d'Armor
  
Around Paimpol and within the department of Côtes-d'Armor, you will see the names Goëllo, Penthièvre, and Trégor again and again. These are the names of the old Brittany Provinces that today make up the department of Côtes-d'Armor.  The names came from the hereditary Counts who held these areas as their personal fifes. The department of Côtes-d'Armor was created during the French revolution, but many businesses and place names still have the old names linked to them.
   
In Brittany celebrations always include oysters.
They will often be accompanied by Cidre Bouché, not champagne.
   
Visiting Paimpol
  
Paimpol is not only famous for its beans. Long before the beans arrived, it was an important fishing port and a vacation center. Paimpol and the area around have excellent beaches, and today there is a lot of activities, restaurants, fetes, and celebrations in town. However, in July and August, you will have problems finding even one hotel room if you did not book the year before. During the French holiday season in July and August, the area’s population increases by more than 300%. Nearly all of that population growth comes from French citizens who know a good thing when they see one.

In Paimpol
    
If you are in the area during the first weekend in August, make sure that you are ready for the Fête du Coco de Paimpol, the bean from Paimpol celebrations. Apart from opportunities to taste the bean and to pick up some recipes, you may join in traditional competitions such as the ramassage, bean picking, and the all-important d'écossage, bean podding. Who knows what fabulous prizes you might win?

Apart from the celebration and fete connected to Paimpol’s famous beans, there are other celebrations, concerts, and fetes every month. An example is the bi-annual "Fête des Chants de Marin." This is a sea shanty festival with groups bringing shanties from all over the world. It attracts thousands of visitors for three days in August.
   
A Breton procession in Paimpol.
www.flickr.com/photos/mwf2005/14665004689/
   
 In the summer, there are often two events in the same week. That is in addition to a Tuesday morning street market, night markets, and the "Mardi du Port" - where locals and visitors enjoy music beside the port every Tuesday. There is also a weekly farmer’s market where everything from beans to ciders, local cheeses, seafood, sausages, poultry, and more are on sale.
   
Paimpol Port.
Paimpol, apart from being an active fishing port, has a large harbor for the growing number of visitors who arrive in their own yachts.
www.flickr.com/photos/12195219@N02/1242829387/
   
Paimpol’s English language Tourist Information website:


To see the calendar of events for the whole year in Paimpol, click on the box on the lower left on the home page. It is entitled “Events: Diary of the Paimpol Country.” 
   
Tasting local products close to Paimpol

Within a short distance from Paimpol, you may visit oyster and mussel farms and cider mills. From the Tourist Information Office, get addresses for those who accept visitors and make a morning visit to the seafood farms and taste their products for lunch. 
  

Langoustines - Dublin Bay Prawns and Huitres – Oysters
For lunch.

In the afternoon, visit producers of Brittany’s famed cider, Chouchen, Pommeau, and Lambig, but with a designated driver!
  
 Paimpol is also home to the first Label Rouge, red label, sea-farmed turbot, the fish. The Label Rouge level of excellence requires adherence to humane farming methods apart from the quality of the product.
  


Wild Turbot on sale.
www.flickr.com/photos/cvalette/20707640115/

The coast around Paimpol
  
Along the excellent beaches close to Paimpol are a wide range of fish and seafood restaurants. When you have had too much fish, and seafood you will find other restaurants a few miles inland where the local Label Rouge free-range chickensturkeys, pork products, veal, and the pre-sale lamb will be on the menu.
   
Pêche à Pied.

This part of the coast of Brittany has many places to join in one of the more popular Breton seaside sports, La Pêche à Pied. La Pêche à Pied is fishing while on land, literally, it translates as fishing on foot. Whenever there is a high tide, buy a net, a hand rake, a bucket, and gloves and join the locals and other visitors at low tide, which is in the afternoon. There among the rocks and sand pools look for and collect crabes, crabs: crevettes, shimps; amande de mer, dog cockles; langoustines, Dublin Bay Prawns;  coques, cockles; and more. If you are lucky, you may find a langouste, the rock lobster, and the owner of the lobster tail. All may be collected for dinner.
  

Pêche à pied, fishing on foot.
www.flickr.com/photos/rhian/36291882871/
  
Paris to Paimpol
  
Paris to Paimpol is 450 km (281 miles) by car or three hours by TGV train to St Bruec, followed by a forty-minute drive by bus or train for the 46.0 km (30 miles) to Paimpol.

--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

 

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

Copyright 2010, 2012, 2015, 2017.
  
 
--------------------------------

Searching for the meaning of words, names or phrases
on
French menus?
 
Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" (best when including the inverted commas), and search with Google, Bing, or another browser.  Behind the French Menu’s links, include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 450 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.
    
 Connected Posts:
    

  
   

  
   
   



  
      

                                               



 
  




  
  
  

   


   
Behind the French Menu’s links include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 400 articles that include over 2,500 French dishes with English translations and explanations.  Just add the word, words or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" and search with Google.

Bryan G. Newman

Behind the French Menu

For information on the unpublished book behind this blog contact Bryan Newman
at
behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

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