Port or Porto - Port Wine in French Cuisine. Port on French Menus

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 

     
 
Tawny Port wines
www.flickr.com/photos/desiitaly/1300072510/
  
Port wine is produced in the Douro Valley in the northern provinces of Portugal.  Within the European Union, only the Port from Portugal may be marked as Port or Porto, while the USA allows any country to call their product Port. How to make Port is no longer a secret, and most New World wine producers also make Port-style wines,  but often the original creators still make the best Port.
   
Port is a fortified wine; that is a wine that has an eau-de-vie, a young grape brandy, added to the fermenting wine in the barrel. The addition of the eau-de-vie stops the fermentation and creates a new wine with higher alcohol content.  Most Ports have around 20% alcohol.

Ports include red, rose and white Ports. Sweet reds are the Port most often used in sauces, and red Port may also be served as a dessert wine that will be chosen from among any of the red Ports. White ports may be on your menu with sauces made for seafood and fish dishes, and chilled sweet white ports may be served as an aperitif.
    
Three different Ports.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/30893885@N07/4377120362/
   
How a Port is aged is not clear from the label.
  
Ports are aged in barrels and later in Glass demijohns. A Port demijohn is a large glass bottle that may be anywhere from 8 liters to 25 liters (2.10 gallons to 6.6 gallons) and more. The Port aged in barrels for a long time takes the oak flavor from the barrel and the darker color as well as being more viscous as the wine thickens from evaporation. The Port wine producer chooses the size of the barrel carefully as that affects the evaporation; larger barrels have less wine exposed to the air.  The Port aged in a demijohn is affected by the heat and cold where it is stored and will be smoother.
  
Glass demijohns.
Photograph courtesy of  Baies

Port wine on French menus:
  
Cassolette De Filets De Caille Sauce Port –  Slices of quail breast prepared with a port sauce. The cassolette is the name of the bowl in which the dish is prepared and may be served.  In French culinary tradition, the name of a bowl, pan or other kitchen equipment is often included in a menu listing.   N.B. Do not confuse a cassolette, a cooking bowl, with the similarly spelled cassoulet, which is a heavy winter stew.
    
Filet de Boeuf Salers au Poivre de Sarawak, Jus Corsé au Porto – A fillet of Salers beef prepared with Sarawak pepper and a sauce made from the beef's natural cooking juices and Port. Sarawak pepper is directly related to the more well-known peppercorns and grown on the island of Borneo in Malaysia, but it is milder than the pepper raised elsewhere and is aromatic. The Salers beef is a Label Rouge, red label, beef that is highly rated.  The Salers beef on your menu will probably come from a bull as the Salers cattle also produce the milk behind the Cantal and Salers cheeses.
 
Fricassée de Rognons de Veau à la Crème et à la Moutarde à l'Ancienne, Flambés Au Porto - Stewed veal kidneys prepared with a mustard flavored cream and flambéed with Port.  Moutarde à l'Ancienne is an old-style coarse-grained, mild mustard while Dijon-style mustards are creamy, spicier mustards.
   
Langoustine et Noix de Saint Jacques, Sauce Flambée au Porto BlancDublin Bay prawns and the meat from the king scallop flambéed with a white Port.
  
Langoustine - Dublin Bay Prawns
www.flickr.com/photos/e_n_gall/5043336140/
                                    
Magret de Canard Sauce Porto, Pommes de Terre Duck breast prepared with a port wine sauce and served with potatoes.
  
Poire Pochée au Porto – A pear poached in Port.
 
Ris de Veau Braisé, Sauce Porto et Poêlée de Légumes – Braised veal sweetbreads served with a Port sauce and mixed fried vegetables.
  
The different Port wines:
 
Colheita Port
 
A Colheita Port comes from a single vintage aged Tawny Port; it is not blended and the vintage year will be on the label. Colheitas are aged in small barrels for at least seven years, and that provides the source of their color, and you may sense a slight oak taste. Colheita Ports hold just 1% of the market but are appreciated far more than their market share suggests.
  
 
A Colheita Port.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/farehamwine/16380830353/
     
Crusted Port
    
Crusted port is a blend of port wine from several vintages with both red and white Crusted Ports being produced. These Ports are aged for a minimum of two years in barrels and then another three years in glass demijohns. Crusted Ports are bottled unfiltered, and they need to be decanted and filtered before drinking.
    
Garrafeira Port
  
Garrafeira Port is a vintage Port from a single year. These Ports will have spent at least three years in barrels, and then another six years in glass demijohns before bottling.
  
Late bottled vintage (LBV) Port
   
Late Bottled Vintage Ports are called LBV Ports.  LBV Ports are bottled later than other Ports and will have been aged in oak barrels for between four to six years. An LBV Port is ready to drink when bottled and most do not need to be decanted.
  
Late Bottle Vintage (LBV) Port.
www.flickr.com/photos/farehamwine/14970543914/

Reserve Port
 
Reserve port is a premium Ruby Port blended from red wines and aged in barrels for two years. Many of these wines may have the name Special or Finest or another word attached to the name Reserve; however, these other names are the producer's idea, and the age and production process is the same as wine just labeled Reserve Port.
   
Rose Port
  
Rose Port is a new Port that was created in 2008 by two producers; it is a form of Ruby Port. The fermentation of the wine is made in a similar manner to a rosé wine; the grape juice has very limited exposure to the grape skins, and that allows for a rosé rather than red color.
 
Ruby Port
 
Ruby Port takes its name from the red color of ruby gemstones. Ruby Port is the most popular Port and the least expensive.
    

 “Still Life" with Port.
Photograph courtesy of pedrik
www.flickr.com/photos/pedrik/46668652582/

 
Single Quinta Vintage Port
 
These wines come from a single vineyard, and similar to Vintage Ports are aged in oak barrels for at least two years before bottling without filtration. 
  
Tawny 
  
Tawny Ports are wines made from blended red Ports aged in wooden barrels.  The barrel aging for Tawny and other Ports allows for evaporation and oxidation. The longer Port remains in the barrel the wine will experience color changes finally reaching a golden-brown. The exposure to oxygen and the wood of the barrel adds an oak flavor to the wines.
   
Tawny Port

www.flickr.com/photos/georgegillams/26185247016/
  
Vintage Port
 
Vintage port is made entirely from the grapes of a declared vintage year and accounts for about two percent of overall port production. The decision on whether to declare a vintage is made by the producer alone in the spring of the second year following the harvest. All Vintage Port wines are closed with a cork and need to be opened with a corkscrew.


Vintage Port.

www.flickr.com/photos/farehamwine/12010831434/
  
White Port
 
White Ports will be on the menu as a base for sauces served with fish and seafood, and as a base for cocktails,  Apart from sauces and cocktails, White Ports are often served chilled as an aperitif.  
    
   
How Port became famous.
     
Port became popular in England after the Methuen Treaty of 1703, a commercial treaty between Portugal and England. At that time England was, as usual, at war with France and wine merchants could not legally import French wines. Port, like other fortified wines, traveled well in barrels and this treaty saw English merchants becoming very involved in the sale of Port. The English also created their own Port wine products with English names that will be seen on many labels including Cockburn, Croft, Graham, Osborne, Sandeman and Taylor.
  
Keeping Port wine at home.
 
Port, like other wines, should be stored lying down in a cool cellar in the dark as light damages port. Since most of us do not have wine cellars, until opening, Port is best kept in a cupboard.  When opened most Ports will keep well for a few weeks and they should be stored standing up.
   
Storing and serving Port.
  
Red Port should be served between 16 and 20 degrees Celsius (61 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit) while White Port is usually served chilled.
 
The size and shape of Port wine glasses.
 
While there is no single accepted size for a Port wine glass it is generally agreed that Port should be served in a glass that looks like a small and shorter wine glass. Since the standard Burgundy wine glass holds around 400 ml (13.5 oz), that makes the correct size of Port and Sherry glasses around 200 ml (6.7 oz).


--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Copyright 2010, 2017, 2019
 
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Lieu Jaune – Pollack, the Fish. Pollack is also called Callagh and Coley in the UK. Pollack on French Menus.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

 


Reeling Pollack in.

Lieu Jaune or Colin  –  Pollack, the fish.  In the UK also called Callagh, Coley, Coalfish, Margate Hake, Dover Hake and Lythe, and in the USA the European Pollock. 

Pollack is a member of the cod family with similar white, flaky meat so that it will often be cooked and served with cod recipes. When offered as poached or baked filets pollack is usually served with a sauce as it on its own it can be somewhat dry.   Pollack grow quite large with many fish weighing in over 8 kilos (18 lbs), so you will be served a fillet. 
  
Filet of baked pollack.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/55935853@N00/4485844101/
 
When a fish on a French menu is named Colin then failing some clarification I choose something else.  Colin in France can be the name of any at least three or more fish including Lieu Jaune, pollack, Lieu Noir, saithe, and Merlu, hake.  The other fish have similar tastes and texture; nevertheless, I choose something else because I like to know what I am actually eating.  Using the name Colin just tells me the restaurant is not really sure what they bought. However, confusion exists outside France as well; pollack has many names in the UK and is often mistaken for a family member called walleye pullack in the UK and Alaskan pollock in the USA. 
   
Pollack on French Menus:
 
Filet de Lieu Jaune à l'Huile d'Olive, Risotto de Pommes de Terre au Wakame – Filet of pollack cooked with olive oil and served with a potato risotto flavored with wakame seaweed.

Lieu Jaune Fumé aux Aiguilles de Pin –  Pollack smoked over pine needles.

Le Duo de Lotte et Lieu Jaune Sauce Champagne – A matched serving of monkfish and pollack in a Champagne sauce.
   
A filet of poached pollack.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/15065518687/
  
Escalope de Lieu Jaune Pochée au Beurre d'Agrumes – A filet of pollack poached in grapefruit flavored butter.

Dos de Lieu Jaune Avec des Gnocchis de Potimarron aux Algues Nori, Jus de Moules -  A thick cut from the back of a large pollack, (considered the tastiest portion), served with gnocchi made with pumpkin and nori seaweed and flavored with the cooking juices from mussels.
  
A poached pollack steak.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rjw1/2314648984/
    
Pollack in the languages of France’s neighbors:
    
(Catalan - abadejo), (Dutch - pollak), (German – pollack), (Italian –merluzzo giallo) (Spanish –badexo).
    
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

Copyright 2010, 2017.

Pelardon des Cévennes AOP - The Cheese Called Pelardon des Cévennes in French Cuisine.

from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com

   
 

Pelardon des Cévennes AOP
Photograph courtesy of La Fromagerie des Cevennes.
  
Pelardon or Pelardon des Cévennes AOP

  
These are tiny cheeses; a Pelardon cheese rarely weighs over 60 grams (2 ounces); this is a 28% fat, sharp-tasting goat's cheese made with unpasteurized milk; a single cheese rarely weighs over 60 grams (2 oz). When this cheese is sold after just 10 or 12 days of aging, it is a very mild cheese and will often be served warm with a salad; it's the older cheeses that have a bite that cheese lovers look for. The cheese has an AOP that guarantees that whoever makes the cheese it will be made in precisely the same way. Despite that, there are differences in the taste among the different producers; the taste is affected by the grasses, plants, and chestnuts that the goats find and eat in particular areas.

The cheese is made in and around the two tiny villages of Barre de Cévennes and Pompidou in the southeast of the department of Lozère in the region of Occitanie.   fI you are visiting this area of the Cévennes, then consider trying their cheese with their local merlot red wine, a Vin IGP de Pays des Cévennes.
   

Members of the production team.
Photograph courtesy of Isabelle Blanchemain
www.flickr.com/photos/isasza/33237551871/

  
The producers claim that their cheese has a two-thousand-year-old history that began when it was very much in demand in Rome, and Pliny does document a cheese from the same area. If today’s Pelardon is the same cheese that was ordered by Romans, I do not know. Still, in the 18th century, today’s cheese could be identified with the name Peraldou, and that eventually became Pelardon. 
   

The Pelardon cheese.
Photograph courtesy of the Syndicat des Producteurs de Pélardon

   

The department of Lozère, where Pelardon is produced, is beautiful and the place to go for visitors who want France without the hordes of tourists. Lozère also has less than 80,000 inhabitants; that's less than 15 people per square kilometer (6 people per square mile).  

 

The Cévennes is also home to other highly rated food products, including the Oignon Doux des Cévennes AOP, the sweet onion of the Cevennes, the Reinette du Vigan apples, and the Belles de Bancels potatoes.

   

Pelardon des Cévennes on French menus: 
   
Médaillon de Veau, Sauce au Pélardon des Cévennes An oval or round escalope, a medallion, of veal served with a Pélardon des Cévennes cheese sauce.
 
Pélardon des Cévennes Grillé sur Lit de Roquette et Sorbet Yaourt au Lait de Brebis  - The Pélardon des Cévennes cheese grilled and served on a bed of rocket salad greens with a sorbet made of sheep’s milk yogurt.
  

A Pélardon des Cévennes tart fine.
The tart is made with a base of puff pastry with tomatoes, the Pélardon des Cévennes cheese, and the AOP sweet onions of the Cevennes.
Photograph courtesy of the Syndicat des Producteurs de Pélardon

 
Ravioles au Pélardon des Cévennes sur un Crémeux de Champignons au Bouillon de Poule Ravioli filled with Pélardon des Cévennes cheese accompanied by a creamy mushroom sauce prepared in a light chicken broth.
   
Salade du Jardin et son Aumônière de Pélardon Rôti au Miel des Cévennes  - A garden salad served with a pouch of Pélardon des Cévennes cheese roasted with honey from the Cevennes.
   
Salade Verte, Pélardon des Cévennes Chaud sur Pain de Campagne  - A green salad served with hot  Pélardon des Cévennes cheese on country bread.
   

Follow the sign to the village of
Sainte Croix Vallée Française
On the first Sunday in May, every year, the Fête du Pélardon welcomes visitors in the village of Sainte Croix Vallée Française.
Photograph courtesy of the village of Sainte Croix Vallee Francaise.

   
Tarte Fine aux Oignons Doux des Cévennes et Pélardon Gratiné  - A tart made with a flat disk of puff pastry, and the sweet Cevennes AOP onions browned under the grill with the Pélardon des Cévennes cheese.
   
For the link to buying cheese in France and taking cheese home click here.

Traveling in Lozere.

Farming and tourism are the main occupations in Lozere. There is skiing in the winter, and in the summer, kayaking, hiking, and fishing. The rivers Lot, Tarn, Truyere, Allier Altier, Gardons, and Cevennes, run through the department and have made Lozere an important center for fishing enthusiasts from all over France and beyond. These rivers have many different fish, but the most important is the brown trout.  In French, that is the truite fario, truite commune, or truite de rivière.



Brown trout 2.5 kg.(5.5 lbs).
Photograph courtesy of   Michael Meiters
www.flickr.com/photos/psychofreakx3/5391479746/

Brown trout in the languages of France neighbors:
(Catalan - truita de mar), (Dutch - zeeforel), (German – meerforelle), (Italian  - trota fario), (Spanish - trucha común, trucha marrón, trucha reo).

Learning about Lozere

To know more about the department of Lozere's history, visit their small museum:  Le Musée des Vallées Cévenoles, the museum of the Cévenole valleys. The museum is in the village of Saint Jean du Gard, 89 km  (56 miles) from Mende, the prefecture.

For more about the Cevennes look at their English language website:

http://www.cevennes-tourisme.fr/uk/

A special part of the history of Lozere.

The department is internationally recognized for the small town of Le Chambon-sur-Lignon. Through its Protestant Pastor, this whole town worked together and saved thousands of Jews in WWII. Many were smuggled into neutral Switzerland, and many others were hidden throughout the entire war in private homes and the nearby forests. The whole village was recognized as among the Righteous Among the Nations by Yad Vashem in Israel and in 2004 by the French President Jacques Chirac. The town is 130 km (81 miles) from Mende, the Prefecture, the regional capital. The French language website of Le Chambon-sur-Lignon can be well understood using Google or Bing translate: http://www.ville-lechambonsurlignon.fr/


The church in Chambon-sur-Lignon
Photograph courtesy of Suzanne.
www.flickr.com/photos/sweetpeasue/6104529370/

Where is Lozere

Lozère is the least populated a department in France.  It is in the region of Occitanie bordering the department of Gard also in Occitanie and the departments of  Ardeche, Cantal, and Haute-Loire in the Auvergne-Rhone Alps; Avignon is less than one hour by car.

This Lozere French language website can be easily understood with the Google or Bing translating apps:  http://www.lozere-tourisme.com/


--------------------------------

Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman

behindthefrenchmenu@gmail.com


Copyright 2010, 2015, 2017, 2020
--------------------------------
 
Are you searching for words, names,
or phrases on French Menus?
 
Just add the word, words, or phrase that you are searching for to the words "Behind the French Menu" and search with Google. Behind the French Menu’s links include hundreds of words, names, and phrases that are seen on French menus. There are over 400 articles that include over 4,000 French dishes with English translations and explanations.
 
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