from
Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
The
Dordogne- Périgord
The Dordogne is a department in the administrative region
of Nouvelle Aquitaine. During the French revolution, the old province of
Périgord became the department of the Dordogne; the borders of the new
department and the ancient province being practically identical. However,
despite the two-hundred years that have passed since the name was changed,
Dordogne's residents still call the area Périgord and call themselves
Périgourdins. Long after the department of Dordogne came into being, the
Périgourdin promoters divided the province into four regions using colors that
describe the geography of each region.
Cuisine
Périgourdine
Cuisine Périgourdine
is one of France's most significant regional cuisines, and Périgourdine dishes
will be on menus all over France. As the Cuisine of Périgord developed, each of
the colored regions shown above claimed bragging rights for particular
specialties. However, good recipes are shared, and the dishes noted in this
post will be on menus all over Périgord. If, in this post, I have given a
particular region unwarranted honors, then I hope the others will forgive me.
Périgord
Blanc -White Périgord
White Périgord is the central region of Périgord and
home to the city of Périgueux, which is the Préfecture, the departmental
capital of the Dordogne/Périgord. The city of Périgueux is considered the
creative heart of Cuisine Périgourdine. Périgord
Blanc took its name from its exposed limestone cliffs. The River Isle runs
through the region, and the City of Périgueux and the River Auvézère runs
through part of the area.
Farmers' market in Périgueux.
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On the menu in Périgord Blanc:
Salade Périgourdine - Salade Périgourdine is
probably the most famous duck salad in all of France, usually served as a cold
entrée, the French starter; occasionally, it may be served as a light
lunch. This duck salad is served on lettuce or other salad
greens with a vinaigrette dressing and traditionally duck gizzard confit constitutes
the chief duck ingredient; however, that can vary with the chef and the price
you will pay. Slices of smoked duck breast may be added and as the restaurant moves
upscale, pate de foie gras, a pate of fattened duck's liver, may join the list of
ingredients.
Salade Périgourdine
au foie-gras
Photograph courtesy of Trip Advisor
Filet de Bœuf Grillé Sauce Périgueux – A grilled fillet steak served with Sauce Périgueux. The fillet is the
most tender and expensive of all beef cuts; however, it is not the tastiest,
for that you need an entrecote. In France, however, you can have the best of
all worlds as all beef fillets will be served with a sauce. Sauce Périgueux is
a rich sauce made with the truffe Périgourdine, the black
Périgord truffles, and Madeira wine, with the herbs used depending on the chef. There is only one, even more
famous dish served with truffles and a Madeira wine sauce, and that is the Tournedos Rossini. That dish was created in Paris, but its black
truffles and foie gras, fattened goose liver,
certainly came from Périgord. To order your steak in France cooked the way you
like it, click here.
On the menu in Périgord Blanc:
Salade Périgourdine -A salad in the
manner of the province of Périgord. This salad is a cold entrée, the French
starter. It is a duck salad served on lettuce or other salad greens with a
vinaigrette dressing. Traditionally duck gizzard confit constitutes the chief
ingredient; however, that can vary with the chef and the price you will pay. Slices of smoked duck
breast may be added and as the restaurant moves upscale pate de foie gras, a pate of fattened duck's liver, may join the list of ingredients.
Cassoulet Périgourdine - Cassoulets
are substantial and filling heavy winter stews, and the Cassoulet Périgourdine
is one of France’s most famous. As may be expected, its ingredients honor
duck or goose. This hearty stew will include a stuffed neck of a goose or a
duck, flageolet beans, duck confit, and garlic sausage and tomatoes.
Charlotte aux Fraises du Périgord –
A strawberry Charlotte made with the abundantly cultivated strawberries of White Périgord. A strawberry Charlotte is
made with sponge cake or ladyfingers placed around the layers of strawberries
and custard or whipped cream; it will be served chilled. White Périgord is the center of strawberry
cultivation in Périgord and the variety and tastes will amaze you. After
tasting a few you will understand why 20% of all French strawberries come from
Périgord.
A Strawberry Charlotte turned
into a birthday cake.
Photograph courtesy Kim Hyeyoung
www.flickr.com/photos/cakegirl/2442542988/
The
original Charlotte was created by Antonin Carême, France's most famous 18th-century chef, and the
undisputed master of French patisserie. In 1815, after the fall of Napoleon I, Antonin left France and became the Chef de Cuisine to
the Prince Regent of England, the son of the Mad King George. Antonin often named new dishes after his employer's
family, and when he created this dish, he called it after Prince George's
mother, Sophia Charlotte. In 1819 Antonin became the chef of Czar AlexanderII,
and there he created another Charlotte, the Charlotte Russe. The Charlotte
Russe was created to honor Czar's sister-in-law Charlotte; Princess Charlotte
was married to the Czar's brother Nikolai. Charlotte Russe, Russian Charlotte,
is similar to the original Charlotte but filled with Bavarian cream and
decorated with whipped cream rosettes.
There
is a possibility that I am wrong in assigning the name Charlotte to Princess
Sophia Charlotte. My great-great-grandmother was also called Charlotte;
however, I admit that I have no proof that she ever met Antonin.
La Roque Gageac, one of the most beautiful villages in France.
It is nestled against one of the limestone cliffs of Périgord Blanc.
Périgord
Vert - Green Périgord
Périgord Vert is covered with chestnut forests and green valleys. Green Périgord is named for
its verdant hills and valleys in an area crisscrossed by many streams and
rivers. The Dronne Valley were the Rive Dronne passes through should not be
missed.
On the menu in Périgord Vert:
Tourain
Blanchi or Tourain Perigourdin – The garlic soup of Perigord. A velvety, mild, garlic soup
flavored with goose or duck fat, thyme, sage, and a hint of wine vinegar. This soup is usually served over a slice or two
of French bread. With slight variations in the recipe, this soup
will be on menus all over the South-West of France.
Cou
d'Oie Farci – A goose's neck stuffed with goose meat and
depending on the chef, the season, and, of course, the price, it may be made
with added foie gras and
truffles or just chestnuts.
Blanc
de Turbot Roti Gnocchi a la Farine de Châtaigne -
A filet of roasted turbot, served with gnocchi made with chestnut flour. With so many chestnuts in Périgord, many excellent
chestnut dishes were created.
Roasted turbot.
Photograph courtesy of Mike_fleming
www.flickr.com/photos/flem007_uk/8196084527/
Cuisse
de Canard Confite dans sa Graisse aux Cèpes – Duck’s
legs confit cooked with porcini mushrooms.
Duck
legs confit with mushrooms.
www.flickr.com/photos/avlxyz/2460429343/
Périgord
Noir, Black Périgord.
Black Périgord is in the southeast of the Dordogne
and famous for its dense forests, including chestnut forests. The Dordogne and
Vézère Rivers run through this region.
The village
of Beynon and the forests of Périgord Noir
Photograph courtesy of Andrew Lawson
www.flickr.com/photos/andylawson/6204029928/
The
town of Sarlat.
Sarlat is correctly called Sarlat-la-Caneda but
called Sarlat by everyone. Sarlat is the most important town in Black Périgord,
even though its population is under 12,000. Sarlat has made many contributions
to the region’s history and to Cuisine Périgourdine. Most of the dishes that
originated from Sarlat include the words Salart or Sarlardaise in their names.
The town of Sarlat itself is full of history with many buildings from the late
middle ages. Despite its small size Sarlat has over 250 listed buildings and 60
registered monuments. Lovers of Medieval art as well gourmets roam the town.
On the menu in Périgord Noir:
Velouté aux Châtaignes de
Perigord – A velvety soup made with the
Label Rouge, red label, chestnuts of Perigord. No other French chestnuts have been awarded the Label Rouge for
consistent quality and their only competitor are the AOP chestnuts from the Ardèche.
Joel Robuchon’s chestnut veloute
Photograph courtesy of Krista
www.flickr.com/photos/scaredykat/328174695/
Brouillade
de Cèpes et Copeaux de Parmesan –
Brouillade, a light version of scrambled eggs; here it is prepared with porcini mushrooms and Parmesan cheese. The original Brouillade recipe is claimed by
Provence, where it is called Brouiado. However, other regions of France have a
strong
claim on their versions. To make a brouillade, egg whites are beaten
separately,
and only mixed with the yolks while cooking; it creates a very light and airy
version of scrambled eggs. The Périgord, with so many forests, is an abundant
source, in season, for many wild mushrooms, especially cepes, French
porcini mushrooms, and chanterelles. Every restaurant will have an agreement with their
own ramasseurs, gatherers of wild mushrooms and herbs, who, in season, will
bring wild mushrooms daily.
Filet de Bœuf a la Sarladaise - This
is the classic beef dish from Black Périgord. Here, a filet of beef is piqued
with small pieces of the area’s famous black truffles. The filet is barded and roasted and cooked with red
or white wine and then served with Sauce Périgueux. Barding requires wrapping
the meat with fat before cooking. Barding is essential for cuts like this that
are roasted as a beef fillet has little external fat. Unless the beef is barded
before being roasted, it will dry out.
Sauce
Périgueux is made with the black Perigord truffle and Madeira wine. The
herbs used may vary with the chef, but it is usually prepared with veal or beef
stock and will be served with meat, duck, or goose dishes.
Magret de Canard aux Pommes Sarladaises - Duck breast fried or grilled, served with Pommes Salardaises.
Pommes Salardaises are potatoes baked in duck fat and flavored with garlic and
parsley.
Magret de Canard with Pommes
Sarladaise
Photograph courtesy of Thomas Claveirole
https://www.flickr.com/photos/thomasclaveirole/269579647/sizes/m/
Dos de Cabillaud en Croûte de Noix du Périgord – A
thick cut of cod, the fish, cooked inside a covering of Périgord walnuts. The
walnut is France’s favorite nut, and when the word noix alone is on the menu,
it is a walnut. Only two walnuts are considered the very, very best; the Noix
de Périgord AOP, the walnut from Périgord, and the Noix de
Grenoble AOP, the walnut from
Grenoble. Apart from the fresh nuts, Périgord also sells walnut liquors and
walnut oils. Perigord has routes de noix, walnut roads like the wine roads in
the wine country. Their routes de noix run through the region and are a
wonderful way to see the country and stop off in country restaurants. The
tourist information offices in each area will provide the map or email a copy
before you leave home.
Black Périgord has become internationally famous for
its prehistoric sites. Many sites have prehistoric wall paintings, including
the Lascaux cave that is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Not all the caves may be visited, and others are
restricted. For example, the Font-de-Gaume Paleolithic cave paintings in
Périgord Noir are carefully preserved, and entrance is limited to less than 200
visitors per day. Book ahead and read up on the finds and paintings as most of
their guided tours are in French only.
Périgord
Pourpre - Purple Périgord
Purple Périgord is the wine-growing center of
Périgord, hence the name. Here the most important town is Bergerac. Around the
town are the Bergerac vineyards, and just over the Dordogne river are the
Monbazillac vineyards.
Bergerac is a beautiful town. The town itself and the
surrounding area is called the Pays de Bergerac, and apart from being home to the Bergerac wines, it
is another center of Cuisine Périgourdine.
Bergerac wines have at least ten appellations, wine-growing areas. The
Bergerac wines include dry reds, roses, dry white wines as well as semi-dry and
very sweet white wines. Just across the River Dordogne are the vineyards for
the Monbazillac sweet white wines that are part of the 13 appellations. To
taste and learn about the different Bergerac wines take their wine road, their
Route des Vins de Bergerac and a designated driver!;
Among the appelations are: Bergerac AOP, Côtes de
Bergerac AOP, Montravel AOP, Haut-Montravel AOP, Côtes de Montravel AOP,
Monbazillac AOP, Pécharmant AOP, Rosette AOP, and Saussignac AOP.
The English language website for the Pays de Bergerac
is:
http://www.pays-de-bergerac.com/english/index.asp
On the menu in Périgord Poupre:
Coq au Vin de Bergerac et Croutons Aillés – Coq au Vin made with one of the red wines of Bergerac and
served with garlic flavored croutons.
Coq au Vin
Photograph by courtesy of jeffreyw
www.flickr.com/photos/jeffreyww/7847026330/
Rosace
d'Onglet de Bœuf aux Lardons - A decoratively sliced hanger steak prepared
with bacon pieces and served with a sauce made from the natural
cooking juices, shallots, thyme, and a Bergerac red wine. A hanger steak may,
mistakenly, sometimes be called a London broil in the USA. A rosace describes
how the steak will be served; it indicates the steak will be sliced and presented
with a fan or flower shape.
Escalope
de Foie Gras Sauce
Monbazillac - A slice of fattened duck's liver very, very lightly fried, and served with a sauce
made with the sweet Monbazillac wine. The fattened duck liver cannot be well
cooked; it would dissolve! The sweet white Monbazillac wines are often compared
with the Sauternes produced just 130 km (82 miles) away in Bordeaux. However, while
the manner of production is similar, the percentage of the different grapes
used does differ, and that clearly affects the taste,
Warm escalopes of foie gras with
cardamom,
glazed root vegetables, verjuice,
and sultanas sauce
Photograph courtesy of HannahWebb
www.flickr.com/photos/hannahtucker/6905335221/
Magret de Canard Sauce Monbazillac –Duck breast fried and served with a sauce made from the
natural cooking juices and the sweet Monbazillac white wine.
Bergerac
and Panache
From Bergerac, the word panache began its modern
usage in the English language. Then, at the end of the 19th century, the French
playwright Edmund Rostand wrote the play, Cyrano de Bergerac. The play was
based on a real 17th century Cyrano de Bergerac and has remained popular in
French and English translations for over 100 years. When the play was
translated into English, the translators could not find a suitable English
word for panache which describes Cyrano's flair, style, and exaggerated
grace. So panache entered into its modern form in the English language. Two
French-language movies have been made about Cyrano de Bergerac, the last in the
1990s.
Statue
of Cyrano de Bergerac.
There
are several Cyrano statues in the town of Bergerac.
This
one is in La Place Pélissière.
Photograph courtesy of Trip Advisor
Fetes, Festivals, and Fairs in the
Dordogne-Périgord.
Throughout the year, there are hundreds of fetes and
festivals in the Dordogne -Périgord. Probably half of these celebrations are
connected to food and wine. Apart from the beautiful towns and villages, there
are hundreds of castles and chateaus.
Every one of the four colors of Périgord has its own
Tourist Information Office:
Tourist Office of Périgueux
https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/perigueux-6198/tourist-office-perigueux-7776.htm
Tourist Office Sarlat Périgord Black
https://www.sarlat-tourisme.com/
Tourist Office of the Périgord Vert Nontronnaishttps://www.tourisme-nontron.fr/
Tourist Office Bergerac Perigord Poupre:
https://www.pays-bergerac-tourisme.com/fr
The main English language website for all of
Dordogne-Perigord is:
http://www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr/
(Click on the British flag for English).
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Behind the French Menu
by
Bryan G. Newman
Copyright
2010, 2015, 2020
--------------------------------
With thanks to Michel Masse for suggestions and corrections.
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